Welding Tool Setup for a Beginner

[xbeatles4x]

Hey guys, I am still in the information gathering stage here but I am ready to start learning how to weld. I wanted someone to double check my thought process or critique what I am looking to get to make sure I am not spending frivolously or buying things that I will need to replace in a short period of time. Essentially I want to buy the good stuff without spending too much.

To date I currently have the following
Hobart Handler 140
Solid Wire and flux Wire
20 cubic ft (I think, it might be bigger0 bottle with some argon / c02.
Welding Helmet (Not auto darkening, that will come later)
Gloves

What I need or at least think I need

Welding jacket - I was looking at this leather one. I read that leather protects better than the cloth fabrics and I don't want to skip safety.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LB7AMYA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Welding pliers - I know that I could get harborfreight ones or the hobart brand ones but I figured the jaws on the cutters might be weak and bend or something and I would end up having to re buy cutters again.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OHH4FO/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Welding Hammer - I read that the harborfreight welding hammer that is $6 is a soft metal that doesn't chip away very well. This might be overkill and I am open to other opinions on what would do just as good of a job.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00047EZSC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Metal Gauge - I'm sure my digital calipers would be just as good but I figured I could keep this gauge in my welder panel and always have it on me. It is cheap enough.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015X6HOT0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Nozzle Gel? - I read that it is suppose to help cut down on splatter but I am not sure if it is really necessary if I am using it with an argon / co2 bottle. Thoughts?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017Z5J1W/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I will be using my 2 saw horses and a bit sheet of metal as a make shift portable table for the time being.

Welding blanket - to make sure I don't get metal everywhere and don't catch things on fire.
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ft-x-8-ft-fiberglass-welding-blanket-95015.html#reviews



Is there anything else that I am missing or obviously need?


In the future I would like to have a designated outdoor table for projects like wood working or welding with a table vice but that isn't in the cards at the moment.

Thanks for the input guys.

 

[ovrrdrive]

This time of year in FL I can barely even wear a long sleeve shirt. Personally I couldn't wear the leather jacket. You might have a better tolerance for heat than me though. Yes it would provide better protection, but it's going to be hot as hell. If you're welding with gas you can't run a fan for circulation. Not directly on you anyway. Something to think about.

I rarely ever use my hammer when using GMAW. Personally I'd wait unless you plan on doing a lot of flux welding. I'd save money on that, get a slightly cheaper pair of pliers ( I use the Kobalt from Lowes, no complaints ) and get a auto darkening helmet from the start. Seeing where you are and what you're doing is invaluable. I only use the pliers for clipping stickout and cleaning the nozzle anyway. If I had to pry and clamp stuff with them I use real pliers.

I don't know if it helps or not, but I use tip dip religiously. It surely doesn't hurt.

I have a pair of gauntlet style gloves but usually just wear leather work gloves. I can handle a little burn here or there though. Buy what you think you need for you.

I would suggest one of the HF welding tables and possibly one of their carts for you too. I saw an email where the cart is down to $29 on sale and the table usually around $59. Both work ok and are better than anything you could build for the same money.

I have the same Miller gauge and it works great. I use calipers if the metal is in between gauges on it though but it works 99% of the time.


Enjoy yourself. It's a fun hobby. If you aren't already, follow Jody on youtube at weldingtipsandtricks. You'll learn a lot.

 

[xbeatles4x]

What jacket would you suggest then?

 

[royesses]

The 140 has a good reputation for light duty welding. If you can afford it a 220 volt machine of higher power will let you do more as you gain experience and your projects get bigger.

A 120 CF bottle would be much much better. Running at 15 CFH a 20 CF will last a little more than an hour. An 80 would last 5 hours and so on. I use a 150 CF on my tig and really need a 300. Making constant trips to the welding supply gets old quick.

Use nozzle gel or spray. You will regret not using it. I started mig welding in 1973 and have used it since then.

Your choice on the pliers. They come in handy. Buy the best you can. Good tools never go out of style.

Local welding supply will have decent chipping hammers. Used for flux removal mainly. For knocking off dingle berries I use an old file sharpened like a chisel.

It is wise to get a non auto, quality helmet with a 9, 10 and 11 lens and spare cover lenses instead of a cheap auto dark. The outer covers need to be changed more frequently than the inner cover lens.

I never wore leathers or welding jackets so I can't comment. I did a lot over overhead stick welding and never need the jacket. I did and do use a leather bib on the helmet to protect the neck from uv burns. I also use a welders cap to protect my bald head. I also use a quality sweat band on the hood gear. Sweat dripping into your eyes *****.

Buy a good comfortable pair of welding gloves.

A metal gauge is inexpensive and if it helps you than it is good.

I no longer have my mig welder, but I used to use a felt wire cleaner to help the drive wheels stay cleaner.

A welding blanket is good when welding around anything that can be damaged. Cheap ones may not stand up well.

A thought on the table. The HF portable welding table when on sale and with a coupon is a great buy. I paid $43.00 each for mine and they so much better than saw horses or working on the ground.

Some decent welding clamps can really help. For the HF welding table the HF F clamps work well and are inexpensive. Also some C clamps. You can make a welders third hand for help holding parts together for tacking.

A book on welding or a vo-tech class can really help learning, saving you from making mistakes.

I'm sure many others will chime in to help you out. For now my senior citizen brain has about run out of any suggestions.

Good luck. Learning to weld will change your life for the better.

Roy

 

[xbeatles4x]

I was looking into a 220 volt but my main use will be repairing rusted metal on my project car. That and the only 220 volt in my house is for the clothes dryer, which is in my garage, but I wanted to work on the side of my house for the time being to hone in on the skill and practice.

I honestly have no idea as to the size of the tank I bought. I bought my gear second hand off of Craigslist when I found someone selling everything that I thought I would need, or at least the stuff I needed that aren't personal preference like clothing and hand tools. I have gone scuba diving in the past and if I had to speculate I would say it is a bit larger in diameter than a 40 cf pony tank but it is smaller than the stubby 63 cf normal tank. Its probably closer to 40 than it is to 20. I'm digging for a photo here.

edit: Here is a photo of the gear I have so far.
edit2: photo seems to be hosting wonky.

edit3: I was able to find the ad again for my stuff and it looks like my bottle is 55 cf.

 

[speed bump]

Nozzle gel is just petroleum jelly. Unless I am doing a fair amount of welding in one sitting I typically don't use it. The spray is nice when you have parts that you don't want to get spatter on.

I have a set of channel lock mig welding pliers and like them.

I would invest in good wire brushes as you will use them constantly.

You probably won't need a welding hammer unless you are planning on a lot of flux core welding.

Leathers and welding blankets are things that it will depend on the job if you ever use them. If you do a lot of overhead welding leathers are invaluable, otherwise I just wear a long sleeve heavy cotton shirt. Welding blankets are great for protecting stuff from spatter and sparks but with GMAW I almost never use it unless I am inside an assembled car interior.

Best things you can purchase when you start (in my opinion) is a helmet that lets you see the puddle well and some lights to illuminate where you are welding. I picked a crappy helmet and it turns my, burns rod 20 hours a week on UT inspected parts brother into a mediocre welder.

Remember cover as much skin as possible, wear sunscreen, and safety glasses.

 

[GJoustra]

Great setup so far! Would love to have a Hobart. Search Retro weld on Youtube, pretty cool videos.

Here is my suggestions, a vise, files, grinder w. metal cut off wheel and grinding disk. If you have the space, look for a horizontal band saw (sometimes a steal on CL) . Drill press and lastly the magnetic gun holder from HF. The auto helmet at Harbor is a game changer vs the fixed one.
Search out a scrap metal place close by and grab a 2 feet x 2 feet sheet of thick metal to weld on.

 

[dogdog]

grinder makes you a perfect welder

 

[My Old Tools]

Blue jean shirt is all you need for most projects. Standard needle nose pliers work just fine. Never use the hammer. A good 4" grinder is required. PAM works for nozzle gel. Best gloves I found are on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IFDXSTE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Fcvapor05]

Skip the jacket. Welding jackets are for guy doing thick sections overhead, things like that.

If you must have a chipping hammer, buy this one or an all metal one just like it:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ACOXO0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

That estwing is a nice hammer for sure, an all metal one is cheaper, will last you the rest of your life, and won't get melted or ruined the first time you set it down on something that is still red hot.

 

[milkovich]

All I would add is:
-Some kind of grinder with a flap wheel or a 90 degree die grinder for 2" rolocs.
-As good a helmet as you can afford (rebuildable). As speedbump mentioned. You can't weld what you can't see.

I've found the secret to satisfactory welding is fit-up and cleanliness. It's like painting; 99% prep, 1% application.

 

[Fcvapor05]

I've found the secret to satisfactory welding is fit-up and cleanliness. It's like painting; 99% prep, 1% application.

Quoted for truth

It's a common beginner mistake (and one I frequently made myself when I first started) that since you can just spray metal wherever you want with a MIG gun, fitup and clean surfaces don't matter. Quite the opposite. The smaller your gaps between parts, and the cleaner your parts, the smaller your welds need to be- which means easier welding, less heat, less distortion, and better looking results.

 

[xbeatles4x]

I forgot to mention. Yes I do have an angle grinder. I do not own a die grinder or an air compressor. Is there such a thing as a corded die grinder that is electric around 2"?

What is the magnetic gun holder? Is that the magnetic parts tray holder?

What is the opinion of the small harbor freight welding cart? It looks like it's on sale for $30 this weekend. I was looking at it and replacing the front casters.

 

[KenS]

Blue jean shirt is all you need for most projects.[/url]

Agreed -- cheap at Goodwill.

 

[Know Wosad]

Corded "die" grinders are a pain in the ***.Too big. Just get a good assortment of stuff for your angle grinder and maybe a few 1/4" burrs or some sandpaper rolls and a mandrel for use in your hand drill.It'll more than get you by for a while

 

[ZRX61]

Lots of Visegrips. For welding get the knock-offs from Horrible Fright.

5 gallon bucket full of water. (you'll know when you need it)

Soapstone marker

Sharpies & bright green masking tape for layout.

At least 3 angle grinders so you're not constantly ******* about changing discs etc.

B.F. Hammer, something in the 3-4lb drilling hammer range. I have 2. 1 is sledge on both faces, the other is sledge/cross pein.

Wire brushes.

Piece of copper pipe. 1in dia. Hammer it flat. Cut it into various lengths for heat sinks. Curve some of them.

 

[ZRX61]

These two books:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0831133015/?tag=atomicindus08-20

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/wel...r-frank-m-marlow/1101804551?ean=9780831131555

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

I only ever use leathers if I'm gonna be welding non-stop for most of a day.

Most fab projects are not worth the sweating as it's 15 minutes of layout / cutting, 5 minute of welding, 30 minutes of test fit / decide what has to happen next, 15 minutes of layout /cutting.....

My home / mobile welding job box contains: mask, gloves, 2 angle grinders with assorted discs (thick, thin, wire wheel), measuring tape, markers / soapstone, c-clamps / vice grips, a few hand tools for connecting gas regulator and cables, extension cords, mig wire rolls (regular and flux core).

Also - heavy weight ball cap for keeping the sparks outta my hair and off the back of my neck. I guess I could get a true welders cap, but never bothered as there's always a freebie ball cap around.

 

[MoonRise]

Add about six 4-1/2 grinders to start with.

One with a hard grinding wheel, two with flap disks of different grits, two with wire wheels (one cup wheel and one 'regular' wheel), and one with a cut-off wheel in it. That should just about be 'adequate' to start with.

Only part way kidding here. A grinder is very useful and in the 'need' category IMNSHO. Changing flap disks from a hard wheel to a wire wheel to a cup disk to a flap disk and back and forth multiple times on a job/task gets real old real fast.

HF welding table, on sale with a coupon can be about $60. Decent, and way better than welding on the ground/driveway. Get two and you can weld (or at least jig up to weld) 'bigger' things.

Clamps. Different sizes and types, from 'plain' vise-grips to the 'welding' vise grips, some C clamps, some sort of 'F' clamps, maybe some welding 90-45-45 magnets (the StrongHand versions with the magnet shut-off are nice but $$$ compared to 'plain' welding magnets).

Some way to clean off grease and oil from the steel before welding.

NOTE Most quick evaporating grease/oil cleaners that you use here are FLAMMABLE. Old style spray brake cleaner (1-1-1 trichlor type) can turn to phosgene gas from the intense UV light of arc welding if you do not let it 115% evaporate. Phosgene gas will KILL you.

The 'new' spray brake cleaners that I see (and use) are usually a blend of other 'nasty' quick evaporating solvents like acetone and heptane. No phosgene danger, still very flammable and the solvents can still do 'bad' things to your skin, lungs, and body (once inhaled or absorbed through the skin).

A welding hammer isn't (typically) used as an actual hammer. Its purpose is to 'scrape' the slag covering a weld bead made with a slag-producing welding process such as SMAW (aka stick welding). Not really a necessary tool for MIG welding or home FCAW processes (the slag from 'home' FCAW wires is more like a powder than a solid hard glassy and thick coating from like say from some 7018 SMAW beads).

To remove the slag (either the glassy silicon islands from MIG welds when using something like a common ER70S-6 MIG wire, or the 'powdery' slag from a 'home' FCAW weld made with something like Lincoln NR-211-MP FCAW wire), use your angle grinder(s) with the wire wheel or cup disk. Way faster and easier than manual wire brushing or trying to remove the 'small' slag amounts with the pointy tip of a welding hammer.

The welding 'pliers' (aka welpers) are super handy and in the must-have category. But although it is a super handy tool, a 'cheap' HF version should work just fine. Wire cutter is about the only 'function' that might eventually wear out. The pliers tips don't really get worn out (grabbing small things or being used as a reamer to 'scrape' the spatter out of your MIG nozzle), the 'grabber' section to help you loosen and tighten a MIG contact tip really isn't going to get worn out, the little hammer part isn't going to get worn out (it's for maybe tapping on something, not trying to straighten out a bent piece of 1/2" thick plate ). They're only about $10-$20 anyway.

Nozzle 'dip'. Yup. Get some. Makes the bit of spatter and 'crud' come off much easier from your contact tip and MIG nozzle.

Anti-spatter spray, sure get a can. Then use some and decide if you 'need' it or not after using it for a while. I usually don't 'need' it, just clean up the minor spatter with one of the angle grinders with the wire wheel.

But a +99 on get a 'decent' helmet. A decent auto-dark helmet makes things go a bit smoother (you can see your start point and line things up before striking the arc, instead of lining things up and then doing the welder head-flip to get helmet to flip down in front of your face and end up shifting your head or hands out of position). Essential? No, but in the 'recommended' category IMHO.

Welding gloves = essential IMHO. Although some leather/canvas work gloves will (mostly) protect you from the UV of the arc, they will do little to nothing for the heat and molten metal you will be dealing with and creating (the melting point of steel is over 2500F, which is way into the 'dang hot' category as far as your body and skin are concerned).

Although a leather welding jacket is 'good', as mentioned in Florida it might be rather hot to wear. Look into a 'cloth' welding jacket (they're treated with a fire retardant so they don't instantly turn into a flaming torch when some molten steel spatters onto them). The molten steel will still burn a hole right through them though.

A welding blanket is not always 'needed'. It depends on if you will be welding things on a 'bench' or if you will be welding upside down underneath say, a car, where molten dripping steel could do bad things to other things in the area where you are welding.

Essential to have are a fire extinguisher or two, and maybe quick access to an 'already have the water on' garden hose. Setting something on fire is rather easy when you have molten steel involved.

So far I've set the lawn on fire (not welding, but using the abrasive chop saw to cut the steel that was going to be welded), a bucket of water took care of that one.

Son set a rag and spare welding beanie cap on fire from a molten steel spatter drip that skittered across a paved driveway maybe 5 feet and happened to land on said (dry thank God) rag and the welding beanie cap. Stomping with the work boots and some more water took care of that one. Son hopefully learned a few lessons on that one: don't panic, take care of things, watch out for things around you, and ensure that the fire is 120% OUT (he didn't want to get the water bucket at first after I stomped the fire mostly out, until I kicked the cap 'open' and it was still smoldering on the 'inside').

Wear leather work boots when welding. No sneakers or flip-flops. Shudder.

That should be a start.

 

[BD1]

You don't really need a leather welding jacket as other stated with mig welding. Just wear 100 % COTTON shirt , not that polyester stuff. As for nozzle dip, I bought this from Zoro . https://www.zoro.com/weld-aid-heavy...gclid=CLi8ps_5r80CFVKVfgodYAQNYQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
Picture shows what appears to be metal can which is really plastic with screw on top. SUPER CHEAP ! Especially using the 30% off.
The channel lock pliers are awesome too. Unless you plan to do flux core or stick welding that hammer isn't really needed.
Here's a welding site that is really good, check it out and consider joining. Great information available. http://weldingweb.com/

 

[ovrrdrive]

Oh and I forgot about the project steel at Lincoln Foundation. I think I ordered either 5 or 10 of these and still have a bunch left. great practice material. Cheaper the more you buy and you only pay once for shipping.

http://www.jflf.org/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=METAL

And I don't wear a jacket when I weld. I'll probably get thrashed for saying it but I weld in shorts, tshirt and flip flops. I always tell people I've been married 20 years now and have a high tolerance for pain. lol

If I'm welding at the table I have an old carpet remnant that I pull up over my legs to keep the majority of the burn off me.

I also forgot to say I have one of the HF blankets and it is fire proof but not heat proof and is fiberglass so it gets fiberglass shards all in my skin if it touches me anywhere. I use it to contain sparks and it works for that. It gets holes burned in it really easily and looks like **** now but it does do what it was made for. I made the mistake of trying to use it to protect my legs only once. Sparks go right through it. It did work really well to keep my buddies water tank protected from my plasma cutter though. Just don't expect too much from it. I do not regret buying it, you just have to learn what it is to be used for and when.

 

[FigureItOut]

I'm just starting out also but I'll share a couple things I found useful. A good helmet is worth the money, after getting used to auto-darkening I can't imagine not having it. Jackson makes nice helmets at a good price.
I use light tig gloves for mig and find it gives me all the protection I need. It's hot in my area, so I just wear a cotton t-shirt and slide on sleeves, mine are Lincoln brand. The HF welding table is kinda cheesy, but it's well designed except for the clamps that lock the table in position. They hold, but they're a pain to use. I added these two cheesy little clamp-on rotating vises and find them useful for fit-up on odd shaped pieces. They slide anywhere you want them and are quite versatile. The whole set-up folds up and doesn't take a lot of space. It's pretty light duty. If no-one mentioned it yet, get a good selection of the arrow shaped magnet doo-dads. Use them only to tack your pieces, the current will demagnetize them.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337Z using Tapatalk

 

[xbeatles4x]

Maybe it is wishful thinking but is it possible to get a decent auto dimming welding helmet for around $50? The ones from harbor-freight seem to be pretty good but the off putting thing to me is that the batteries can not be replaced.

 

[royesses]

I don't know if you know about the HF coupon web page. Always at least a 20% coupon to print out there and they always work:
http://www.hfqpdb.com/

The advice about polyester clothing is right on. It burns just like plastic and causes burns to be much worse. It turns to liquid and sticks to your skin. I only wear cotton.

I use a Lincoln viking 3350 4C auto dark hood. It is like high def TV compared to black and white 1950's TV. But it sells for about $250 to $300. I have cataracts and the HF helmet I tried made me see halo's around the image and made my eyes hurt. I could not believe the clarity and color of the Lincoln when I first used it. My first words were Oh my god I can see again. I don't recommend a cheap auto dark You only get one pair of eyes. A flip up manual hood with glass lens is much better than a cheap autodark. All autodark lenses are supposed to filter out UV even in the light state. But who knows if the cheap ones meet this requirement.

 

[xbeatles4x]

This isn't leather and it doesn't appear to be made from anything other than cotton. So is this the kind of jacket I should get then and what would be recommended?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035XCRZA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[ovrrdrive]

I have a hobart similar to that but I usually only wear it when it's cool out and I have a lot of welding to do... It's comfortable and works. This is the one I have:

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200595633_200595633

 

[trackwelder]

I have a set of welding sleeves from Miller which a mostly cloth wth leather sections sewed on the elbows and the bottom off the arms. They are very comfortable and cheap, maybe twenty dollars. I will wear a coat when air arcing or using a slice torch. I would stay away from any abrasives or grinders from harbor freight. Stick with Sait, Norton etc for any discs or flap wheels.

 

[ZRX61]

I have a set of welding sleeves from Miller which a mostly cloth wth leather sections sewed on the elbows and the bottom off the arms. They are very comfortable and cheap, maybe twenty dollars.

Has the quality improved? I like the look of them but the quality got panned a couple of years ago. They were coming apart after less than a week.

 

[trackwelder]

Has the quality improved? I like the look of them but the quality got panned a couple of years ago. They were coming apart after less than a week.

I have been using the same pair since September. I'm guessing 500+ hours of use with heavy fluxcore and no issues. I like them better than the Steiner sleeves.

 

[B_Bimmer]

Maybe it is wishful thinking but is it possible to get a decent auto dimming welding helmet for around $50? The ones from harbor-freight seem to be pretty good but the off putting thing to me is that the batteries can not be replaced.

No, the cheapest acceptable helmet is the miller economy one for around $100. Good price for all your getting. A good headband, good electronics, your eyes are worth it. Some of the cheap ones work okay for a while, but getting flashed if you stick with it is not worth saving fifty bucks one time.

 

[nikerret]

Here's a thread I started about taking a welding class, last spring.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=319283

I have the Channellock welpers, they were great. I also like the Wilde FlushFit slip-joint pliers.

I recently bought a leather welding jacket, but only because it was on clearance for $16. I'm sure I'll wear it, in the winter.

Here's an issue you may not have thought of: dedicated electric line/outlet, directly to the breaker box, for the welder. I can't get much welding done, on the plug that has another outlet on it. I need to run a dedicated line for a single outlet, even for my small 120v wire feed welder.

I got a cheap, auto adjusting helmet from Tractor Supply. It isn't as great as the ones the other students in my class had, but it worked fine. For $40, it was a stellar purchase. Learning with a single shade was tough.

 

[ZRX61]

I have been using the same pair since September. I'm guessing 500+ hours of use with heavy fluxcore and no issues. I like them better than the Steiner sleeves.

I'll take another look, I liked the spiffy design

 

[txlch]

What type of welding do you plan to do on the your project car? Are you wanting to do sheet metal work or frame/suspension/etc? So most of your questions have been covered, but depending on if you are doing heavy welding or just sheet metal will change my suggestions. Sheet metal welding you'll be doing a bunch of tack welds and moving around a lot, so I'd go for a decent auto darkening helmet, but I also learned how to weld with a standard hood and would say to get both. I'm in Texas and never used a leather jacket and would only want one if I had to do a bunch of overhead welding. I always wore a wrangler long sleeve when I was doing a ton of welding, or just a cotton long sleeve shirt. These wrangler shirts I think are great for welding. As for pliers, hammer, welding gauge, etc, save your money and either buy cheap or hold off on buying and put some of that money to buying scrap metal to practice welding on. And as MoonRise mentions, before buying anything else, buy a fire extinguisher.

 

[Redwolf947]

Maybe it is wishful thinking but is it possible to get a decent auto dimming welding helmet for around $50? The ones from harbor-freight seem to be pretty good but the off putting thing to me is that the batteries can not be replaced.

So far this is working good for me

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWAEYV8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[crewchief888]

i have the cheap HF welding cart, no problems for the past 6 or 7 years ive had it.

the HF welding blankets are just ok, i have a couple i used when welding cages in jeeps that had nice seats in them.

i have several pairs of gloves, a heavy pair of mig/stick gloves, pair of tig gloves, pair of leather work gloves, and mechanics type gloves.
all depends on what i'm doing what pair i wear.

buy a AD hood, shop around at a LWS store, and find one that fits and feels comfortable.

i wear FRC "green" jackets and pants. available at your LWS.
i get most of mine from thrift stores, and have a "supplier" (friend) than gets them from the place he works at.

 

[dogdog]

Maybe it is wishful thinking but is it possible to get a decent auto dimming welding helmet for around $50? The ones from harbor-freight seem to be pretty good but the off putting thing to me is that the batteries can not be replaced.

you can get a 4x AAA battery holder and crack open the case solder the leads to make it external mounted....It's just two welded tab 2032 button cells soldered in series inside that makes it a 6V.... There is a website and guide for this .... so are lots of other sub $100 helmets are the same constructions...

 

[xbeatles4x]

Thanks guys. To answer a previous question. Mostly sheet metal on my 69 VW bus. The frame is in surprisingly good shape. Just a few things here and there and the rear rain rail.

 

[rvieceli]

Lots of good suggestions. the NO synthetics anywhere really needs to be followed. Shoes too. So real leather shoes or boots. Hot stuff will melt right through synthetic sneaker material. If you wear lace ups keep an eye on the laces. No frayed ends that are like candle wicks.

While you're watching for frayed ends make sure those old jeans you're wearing don't have a bunch of threads sticking out of the bottoms.

Keep all your skin covered. The arc gives a nasty sunburn. Watch for a gap between the cuff of your glove and the cuff of your shirt if you don't wear long gloves. Also the area around your neck. Easy for your shirt to get sweaty and wet and have the collar droop down enough to fry that tender skin there. they make a drape that goes in your helmet.

As mentioned some sort of head covering. Do rag or welders cap.

What you don't want to happen is be welding and think wow some body's barbequing and realize. HEY that's me!!

 

[txlch]

If you're mainly looking to do sheet metal work on something that age, forget the flux core. Here's a decent thread on the HAMB to give you an idea of the process. I'd figure out roughly what gauge your metal on the bus is and get some scraps or damaged pieces off something with similar thickness to practice on. When I do patch work on restorations I do a series of tack welds spaced across the panel and let the panel cool between each run. You can try running beads but it usually is too much heat and causes the panel to warp and makes more work in the long run. Look into vice grips, magnets,

. Maybe practice filing small holes with welds. Really just depends on the kind of repairs you need done on the VW. If you post up some pictures of the damaged areas I could give you some more specific advice, but for the most part it seems like its much more difficult than it is. It's just about patience and controlling the amount of heat on the metal.

 

[justanengineer]

JMO but before you get too deep into this time or money-wise I would highly suggest finding a local welding class with a knowledgable instructor. After you have access to a variety of equipment you might be surprised as to what you will want to buy vs what you won't. After years of stick and mig welding I took the local community college's series, the first week I learned the difference between what I had done for years (pretty) and what I should've been doing (strong) when the dye penetrants and X-rays came out. Since then my approach to welding has completely changed bc I know far more about joint design, materials, and technique, and I rarely touch the mig anymore in favor of the tig.