Welding???

[8man]

First, I'm a novice welder. I have a Lincoln Ranger 8 stick and a Lincoln 240-T mig. I've been using the mig with shielding gas to do some body work on my project, 79 Jeep Cherokee. I've used the stick around the farm on cattle guards, etc. However, I read MP&C's post here to figure out what wire, gas and how to test settings for the body panels. For the cattle guard I asked questions of a local welder for the size of material. I'm running a bead with the stick, not pretty, but getting good penetration. With the mig, it has been sheet metal and doing the "dot" and planish method. Now I'm moving to another couple of projects and I'm not sure what to use.

1. A welding bench with 3/16" legs. What welder should I use and what rod/wire for this size material?

2. A ham antenna that raises and lowers out of 1/4" stuff for the base. Again, which welder and wire/rod?

If Kevin Scott reads this, please PM me, I have a Scout vise I'd like to talk to you about doing some work on it.

Thanks.

 

[lakeroadster]

Are you welding inside a shop or outside?

Not familiar with a Lincoln 240T? It's a 240 volt model correct? What wire size are you set up to run and what size can the machine run.

Reason I ask is I would use the wire welder instead of stick in every application I could. Even if it meant running flux core wire, if the machine has the capability to do so.

You'll get really good penetration with the flux core and flux core will handle some rust and filth....

 

[8man]

I'll be welding inside a shop on all of it.

 

[sberry]

The 240 SPT is a super good machine, it thrives on 030 wire. 023 9s a lot easier for body panels but the larger wire gives it more punch on structural work and 3/16 to 1/4 is within its range. With 030 set it on D and 5.5 which is as wide open as it gets with that wire.

 

[8man]

Thank you. That is what I needed. One day my welds may look like that, I hope!

 

[sberry]

Thr T is really good, about as good as any I have ever used and actually like it better than the C models. 3 settings for 030, thin at B2.5, medium at C 3.5 and all its got at D 5.5.

 

[joe49]

Actually before you get advice you should post some pictures of your welds with each process, so as your skill can be judged as to which you are best at.

 

[8man]

Joe, my more recent welds with the MIG have not been on mild steel of any thickness, they have been on body panels, quite a different intent.

As I start on the table I will post some pics to get some feed back as I would like some help improving my welding.

 

[sberry]

This is the back of that middle pic above. I left a little boog so you could see the original fit. Welded from one side, the other side, it can be completely thru. I did it with the intent to break it, had to pound it flat and work it to get it to crack.

 

[8man]

What was the gap between the two pieces of metal when you welded it together?

That is really good penetration and "melding" together of the two pieces.

 

[sberry]

Yes , left the little spot to show the gap.
This is stick, overhead. Little easier to see the setup.

 

[BD1]

Check the WELDINGWEB site, great info , designs of tables, carts, and projects.
http://weldingweb.com/

 

[sberry]

The stick one above is the same as this vertical, 1/4 plate. about 3/16 gap, square edges, no bevel. Its a pinch shallow, I don't do this every day but the second pic is the backside. I put a bit too much thru the back and not enough on the front.

 

[8man]

You are killing me with those pics! You are complaining and I'm thinking "if only"!

I know practice, practice, practice!

Got the steel today, maybe this weekend I can try the first weld and post a pic to see where I really am in this journey to welding.

 

[sberry]

There is something to consider here. Not all of it needs to be that way and I am a career welder. I am not complaining but want to put it in to some perspective in the sense that they were not meant to be pictures of perfection but simply to demonstrate some technique.
I would have trouble to pass test today requiring critical testing. It would take me a little practice daily for a couple weeks to sharpen up but its not needed for general work. To the layman its ok, to a fussy inspector it would be a problem.

 

[8man]

Thanks. You are right about testing. As a kid working in the refinery I saw some guys who could, and I'll never do that. I am at the point I'm trying to make sure I get good penetration (I hear that is critical to a good weld) and make it strong enough to do it's job. Since I'm building a welding table (yes, I stole many ideas from this forum) I don't think they will have to pass any inspection or a break test. So long as I get the penetration, I could probably spend as much time as I want grinding them down for paint, and at my age, I'm not ever going to pass an inspection.

 

[trackwelder]

I use wire on everything possible. That Lincoln can do everything that you have listed.

 

[byoungblood]

3/16" steel, I'd run 3/32 7018 on the Ranger. I've only been welding a few months myself, but 7018 is pretty easy to run if you get quality rod. I like it because it has a nice easy to see puddle so even a novice like myself can produce a decent quality and looking weld.

7018 is nice because if you have it dialed in right, the slag will almost peel off and usually is suitable for painting after cleaning up slag and spatter.

 

[slip knot]

It sounds like you want to practice on your projects. I'm going to suggest you get some scrap and practice on that. weld two pieces together with either process and then try breaking them apart. Think BFH here. when you have to work to get it apart then its time to start looking at projects.

 

[sberry]

last 2 are 7018 1 st one is with same wire feed you have.

 

[matt_i]

Personally, I'd never purposefully put a gap between two pieces of metal. If I had a low-amp mig welder and trying to get better penetration, then get out a flap wheel and angle grinder and back-bevel the parts on both sides, or at least the sides that can be welded.

Now tack it together both sides to hold dimension, depending on the length its worthwhile to keep flipping it and tacking it both sides. Now its time to fill in or stitch.

Mig welding is about 10x faster in my book and the arc starts instantly every time. Chipping the flux end of a 7018 after a stop gets kind of old after awhile.

I'd just practice welding beads (either process) on flat stock until you have the speed and arc length correct and can see what you are doing. Eventually a welder is judged by the dimensions he or she can hold (control of warping and pulling) and not how pretty the beads look from the outside.

 

[sberry]

You can do it any way you want but gaps are used all the time and not every joint needs fussy fit.

 

[sberry]

Most pipe is welded with a gap. Most is a beveled gap. This was crude. was getting buried in a few minutes. We used some old rod up, as long as it didn't leak it was good to go, simple cut and weld fit. Very little grinding and no inspection and not much rolling to weld but simply went around, flip it over and weld the other side. Maybe about 8 rods 1/8 , depending on gap. Single pass. I could do a high quality joint in 2 passes at this thickness with proper fit.
The last is an old joint, after it weathered no one notices the crude finish.

 

[8man]

Ok, using the .030 wire with 25% shielded gas. Here is a picture of a weld that I was working on from above the weld. Easiest position for weld. This is a cut **** end welded to the long run of the 2" x 3" x 3/16" tube.

This next picture is welding the end of the tube standing on the base plat. So I have a 90 to weld into. I tacked the 4 corners and then ran the bead.

I got good penetration on both welds, and welding from above is an advantage.

I tried a vertical weld, but it is NOT pretty, and I'm not sure I got good penetration on it. So I'll grind it out and try again by laying the frame on its side. Unless I feel brave enough to try it again. I am not going to try overhead at this point.

 

[sberry]

That is pretty freekin good especially for learnin. Well melted in. The word penetration is often mis used. Pentration is like I showed in some of the joints, filling and burning all the way thru and is mostly a function of joint design, I say mostly but fusion is the melting like in a typical fillet weld, simply making sure both pieces are well melted and its not just laying on top of it.

 

[LX-Markham]

penetration and fusion
....misused just like grounding and bonding


nice welds, both of you.