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Wet tile saw recommendation

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branimal

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I am redoing my master bath and need a wet tile saw. I'll be redoing another bath and my kitchen after that.

Can anyone recommend a good wet tile saw? Do I need a water recirculating saw? I'd like to keep things as clean as possible.

Thanks


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fivespdcat

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Are you doing tile or stone? If not just get a snap cutter.

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ducksface

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I'm buying the hf unit. I will need to modify for the last part of the job to use a 14inch blade.
I can't find a saw any better unless I had to make money with it. Even then....
 
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branimal

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I am cutting 12x24 tile. The bathroom is 8'x9' so I can use larger format tile.



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M6erfan

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rustyjames

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I did my bathroom with 12x24 porcelain and bought an MK 101 wet saw. It's a beast, and heavy because I bought the fold up stand to go with it. It can also cut pavers. The main reason I went with the MK is because it's made in US and I figure I can get a lot of my money back if I were to sell it.

Also bought a snapper but didn't use it much because we were breaking a few tiles while using it. It takes a certain feel when snapping 24" tile.
 
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MagKarl

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I have a DeWalt tile saw, it's got a lot of nice features and can do 24" tile. Bought it used off of Craig's List for about half price of new.
 
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fivespdcat

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I was in a similar situation where i "thought" i needed a wet saw for tile. I bought the big HF thinking it would do everything i needed. It did, but just like every other wet saw I've ever used, it was dirty and you were going constantly filling water and running in and out of the house to make your cuts.

When i decided to tile my upstairs laundry room. I wanted something clean, quick and could cut in the room with little noise. A snap cutter worked perfect. I bought one off amazon warehouse deals for like $30. So there's my recommendation. Snap cutter especially for a small bathroom like that. If you need to make a couple corner cuts just use a grinder with a diamond wheel outside. They're way cheaper, blades are 10% of the price and they work great. My wet saw sits in basement taking up room. May never use it again...

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branimal

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Here are some of my requirements :

- I'll need to cut 24" tile (using 12x24)

- I want to keep it as clean as possible.

- I will be using this saw inside the bathroom I am tiling. I live in a condo

- budget is up to $300 including a good blade


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tarmy

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When we first got married 36 years ago...we decided to do the first house remodel ourselves...bought the best one we could afford, an MK...800 bucks...cost a fortune for us at the time. We new we would be moving again...and again and would save enough from the inital remodel ( 2 bathrooms and kitchen) to pay for it.

That thing has done at least 5 kitchens, fireplaces, hallways, maybe 15 bathrooms and cut tile, granite, brick, pavers, you name it...

It paid for itself many many times...

Something I learned from my dad, buy good tools and they will last a lifetime...
 
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branimal

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Anyone have opinions on the Ridgid R4030s.

- It Can rip 24" ( not great accuracy this length - but there won't be that many cuts of that length).

- $300

- unfortunately reviewers saw it makes a mess. Maybe I can rig my shopvac hose to the area where water is getting spit out of to control the mess.

MK's sound great honestly, I've only got a few diy projects.


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The Cobbler

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branimal said:
.......

- It Can rip 24" ( not great accuracy this length - ........

- unfortunately reviewers saw it makes a mess. Maybe I can rig my shopvac hose to the area where water is getting spit out of to control the mess.

.............

......
Click to expand...

I have a 10" Samona tile saw. I use a pc of plywood and clamps to make a fence for long cuts and adjust it so the cuts can be dead on. say for example a strip 24" long with one end 1-1/8 to the other end at 1-3/4" it is dead on . I think that would help with accuracy for you ,
as far as mess, you could put down plastic and cover it with drop sheets so you can walk and absorb the water . bunch of old towels handy to dry your hands and tiles too.
 
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branimal

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Watched a video on the ridgid r4030s.

The track the sliding table runs on isn't long enough for all the wheels to stay on the track for the full length of the cut. This causes the wobble at the end of the cut. Could cause 1/16" deviation along a 24" cut.

Also seems this model has water pump issues.

Seems like Lowes kobalt competing product has the same issues.


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branimal

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The Cobbler said:
I have a 10" Samona tile saw. I use a pc of plywood and clamps to make a fence for long cuts and adjust it so the cuts can be dead on. say for example a strip 24" long with one end 1-1/8 to the other end at 1-3/4" it is dead on . I think that would help with accuracy for you ,
as far as mess, you could put down plastic and cover it with drop sheets so you can walk and absorb the water . bunch of old towels handy to dry your hands and tiles too.
Click to expand...



Cobbler, good idea to create a fence. But how would you do that if the saw in question runs on a sliding table


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branimal

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Zapp Branigan said:
I have this one and it works great. I added a better blade, which is a must since the HF ones ****. It can handle 24" tile, and cuts 18" corner to corner no problem too. It is also a brick saw.

http://www.harborfreight.com/10-in-25-hp-tilebrick-saw-69275.html
Click to expand...



How's the mess factor?

Is there wobble in the table when you reach the end of a 24" cut? This seems to be the issue with the ridgid and kobalt brands at a similair price point.

Thanks


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ddawg16

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I'm using a wet saw that is limited to about 14" cuts....but cutting a 24" tile is easy.....you hang half of the tile off the edge of the table...then push the tile through.....

Or, cut 1/2....turn it around and cut the remaining from the other end.
 
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branimal

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ddawg16 said:
I'm using a wet saw that is limited to about 14" cuts....but cutting a 24" tile is easy.....you hang half of the tile off the edge of the table...then push the tile through.....

Or, cut 1/2....turn it around and cut the remaining from the other end.
Click to expand...



Yes I can create a catch table after the saw, but if the sliding table comes off the track at the end of the cut, the tile could move 1/16 to 1/8".


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8mpg

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So I have done a few bathrooms and kitchens. I bought a Harbor Freight saw in their parking lot sale about 8 years ago for a steal $160. Used it many times and it still works like a champ.

That being said, I just completely gutted and remodeled my 3 bed 3 bath house and I got a snap cutter. I would way rather use a snap cutter and just use an angle grinder on some of the intricate cuts. The snap cutter is so fast and you can cut inside without the watery mess of a wet saw. It was $150 and I love the thing.
 
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branimal

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Todd.Brock

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branimal said:
Anyone have opinions on the Ridgid R4030s.

- It Can rip 24" ( not great accuracy this length - but there won't be that many cuts of that length).

- $300

- unfortunately reviewers saw it makes a mess. Maybe I can rig my shopvac hose to the area where water is getting spit out of to control the mess.

MK's sound great honestly, I've only got a few diy projects.


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Click to expand...



I have the Rigid saw. It throws water everywhere. But it does the job over and over. Get ready to get a little wet, it spills water everywhere, it's a pain to clean, but it works well. I used the little table saw for years and those bastards work great for 99 bucks.

I didn't think about a ceramic tile snapper. I am doing my shower with this fancy ceramic and it would make life 100 x easier snapping tile vs walking downstairs for answer saw. Thanks for mentioning that
 
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Miss the Pontiacs

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I bought a used MK from the Home Depot rental people. Works great for Porcelain, clay and of course cement pavers. I bought it when doing my front yard where we did circle kits, curved walkways and of course raised flower beds and a pond. Not a blade of grass left only flowers and shrubs. With the curves and circles there were lots of cutting to do. Only wished I had bought a plate tamper to go with it!
 
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Empty Pockets

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I bought an unbranded import from HD. It did well for 1 large kitchen and 2 bathrooms. The blade cycles through a tray of water under the table of the saw.
 
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branimal

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The wobble issue on the ridgid is to great for me to overcome. Not sure why they don't build guides a bit longer.

I can't believe I'm saying this but I will be looking at the Horrible Freight 10" model mentioned here earlier.

I emailed a couple guys on CL with the. MK 101 saw.

And I will look into snap cutters. I'm worried that my tennis elbow might not be able to withstand the elbow grease required. Is Rubi considered a good brand. Price points ~ 100 for the 24".

Will keep you guys posted.




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Zapp Branigan

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branimal said:
How's the mess factor?

Is there wobble in the table when you reach the end of a 24" cut? This seems to be the issue with the ridgid and kobalt brands at a similair price point.

Thanks


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Click to expand...


It's pretty solid. I didn't have any issues with it. I just got finished tiling 400 sq.ft. As for mess, it tosses the mess to the back, so I hung a plastic curtain behind it to catch the slung water, and then ran the plastic into a tub under the saw. The water ran into the bucket and it wasn't too bad at all. I wouldn't set it up in my living room though.
 
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branimal

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Zapp Branigan said:
It's pretty solid. I didn't have any issues with it. I just got finished tiling 400 sq.ft. As for mess, it tosses the mess to the back, so I hung a plastic curtain behind it to catch the slung water, and then ran the plastic into a tub under the saw. The water ran into the bucket and it wasn't too bad at all. I wouldn't set it up in my living room though.
Click to expand...



Thanks zapp.


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branimal

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What is the ideal board to hang Large format tile (12x24") off of?

I've read cement board is the best for larger tile even if it's not a "wet" area

Thanks


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rustyjames

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If it's a dry area drywall will be fine, no need of cement board. If you use cement board in wet areas it needs to be water proofed, or a moisture barrier behind it, but never both.
 
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branimal

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rustyjames said:
If it's a dry area drywall will be fine, no need of cement board. If you use cement board in wet areas it needs to be water proofed, or a moisture barrier behind it, but never both.
Click to expand...



Yep I'm using redguard


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branimal

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I pulled the trigger on the Harbor freight 10" tile saw.

No responses from the MK sellers on CL.

What blade do you guys suggest?

I've heard this dewalt is the decent:

5545a1b355068e7b152dc8ca9a9cab33.jpg


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The Cobbler

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Good move on the saw . I have good luck with el cheapo blades. I'm sure that blade will be just fine.
as far as your question earlier about the plywood fence, I use 2 c clamps and clamp it to the table , out of the way of the glides etc, and use it as a fence to make long rip cuts as the original fence is very short and I get get more accuracy with the ply. take some time and you can get an exact cut even on a taper
 
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