larry4406
Well-known member
Use a normal “short” socket with an extension by hand if access *****. Then switch to a fully broached deep well.Yeah? Well now I don't know what to use!
Always start a fastener by hand.
Use a normal “short” socket with an extension by hand if access *****. Then switch to a fully broached deep well.Yeah? Well now I don't know what to use!
What if there isn't enough room for a socket with extension but the fastener is recessed so I can't hold it with just my fingers? (Pretty sure somebody else already mentioned that scenario.)Use a normal “short” socket with an extension by hand if access *****. Then switch to a fully broached deep well.
Always start a fastener by hand.
many of my extensions are cross hatched to help with starting/running in a fastener on socket and extension by hand.What is there isn't enough room for a socket with extension but the fastener is recessed so I can't hold it with just my fingers? (Pretty sure somebody else already mentioned that scenario.)
You can stick a fastener in the end of a socket and turn it by hand. Thinking about this more, the only 2 times I can think of where I have or would have benefited from a fully broached socket are when I didn't have enough room above the fastener for the socket to stick up more and when i was trying to run a nut and jam nut onto a stud at the same time. OTOH, I can think of many times I wished the socket wasn't fully broached, normally when trying to start a fastener with the socket.Wow. I can’t stand non-fully broached versions. Start the nut by hand to prove it’s not cross threaded and you can feel its proper.
still doesn't help when there's not enough room for a socket and extension. I guess I could cut one of those off just so I can use a short socket.many of my extensions are cross hatched to help with starting/running in a fastener on socket and extension by hand.
that is one reason (read: excuse) to go right out and buy a set of intermediates.still doesn't help when there's not enough room for a socket and extension. I guess I could cut one of those off just so I can use a short socket.
Couple weeks ago, after dropping and losing 6 or 8 6mm (10mm across flats) nuts where I couldnt start the nut with fingers, I resorted to sticking the nut into a socket with caulk. Can’t remember last time I had to do that.What if there isn't enough room for a socket with extension but the fastener is recessed so I can't hold it with just my fingers? (Pretty sure somebody else already mentioned that scenario.)
I use masking tapeCouple weeks ago, after dropping and losing 6 or 8 6mm (10mm across flats) nuts where I couldnt start the nut with fingers, I resorted to sticking the nut into a socket with caulk. Can’t remember last time I had to do that.
Couple weeks ago, after dropping and losing 6 or 8 6mm (10mm across flats) nuts where I couldnt start the nut with fingers, I resorted to sticking the nut into a socket with caulk. Can’t remember last time I had to do that.
Do you just have some between the nut and the side wall of the socket?Try paper towel next time, old mechanics trick... it's easier, less mess and more temporary than caulk.
I still the tape to the bottom of the socket and push it in with the fastener. Then the fastener comes out when itug on the socket and I remove the tape and toss it. Paper towel or whatever works the same way. It just gets wedged between the socket and the fastener. I'm not sure what other way it would workDo you just have some between the nut and the side wall of the socket?
What’s fully broached mean? I’m guessing it means the hex shape cut goes all the way down but I’m not sure why I’d want one or the other.You can stick a fastener in the end of a socket and turn it by hand. Thinking about this more, the only 2 times I can think of where I have or would have benefited from a fully broached socket are when I didn't have enough room above the fastener for the socket to stick up more and when i was trying to run a nut and jam nut onto a stud at the same time. OTOH, I can think of many times I wished the socket wasn't fully broached, normally when trying to start a fastener with the socket.
Correct - the 6 or 12 points are full depth.What’s fully broached mean? I’m guessing it means the hex shape cut goes all the way down but I’m not sure why I’d want one or the other.
I believe yes.What’s fully broached mean? I’m guessing it means the hex shape cut goes all the way down but I’m not sure why I’d want one or the other.
Do you just have some between the nut and the side wall of the socket?
Maybe I’m a little slow today but instead of having a special shallow broach deep socket bwcuase you still need full broach deep sockets for regular deep socket use. And instead of messing with paper towels, couldn’t you just use a shallow socket and a small extension to give you the same thing as a short broach deep socket?Yes. Basically, tear off a small piece of paper towel, put it over the end of the socket and push the nut down into the socket on top of the paper towel. It creates just enough pressure to hold the nut in the socket, so it doesn't drop while you're trying to get it started on the stud. It also works with a bolt too.
It's an alternative to using a magnetic socket. When you pull the socket off after starting the nut or bolt, the paper towel just falls away. Worst case you have to pick it out of the socket. But be careful if you have an open cavity the paper towel could fall into.
Shallow broaches help to hold the nut or bolt closer to the end of the socket, making them easier to start thread engagement. A deep broach holds the nut or bolt deeper inside the socket and can make things difficult at times.
Maybe I’m a little slow today but instead of having a special shallow broach deep socket bwcuase you still need full broach deep sockets for regular deep socket use. And instead of messing with paper towels, couldn’t you just use a shallow socket and a small extension to give you the same thing as a short broach deep socket?
well i guess I just see why anyone would ever need a deep socket with a shallow broach the way it’s being described you could do the same thing with a shallow socket and a tiny extension.The idea of a broach is simply to engage and hold the nut or bolt head towards the end of the socket and not deep down inside a socket. It's not so much an issue with shallow sockets, but it can be a problem with deep sockets when the broach of the socket is say 2"+ down inside the socket.
well i guess I just see why anyone would ever need a deep socket with a shallow broach the way it’s being described you could do the same thing with a shallow socket and a tiny extension.
Unless it is A small bolt and the head of the socket is larger than the base of the socket and maybe it won't fit into a recess...well i guess I just see why anyone would ever need a deep socket with a shallow broach the way it’s being described you could do the same thing with a shallow socket and a tiny extension.
Couple weeks ago, after dropping and losing 6 or 8 6mm (10mm across flats) nuts where I couldnt start the nut with fingers, I resorted to sticking the nut into a socket with caulk. Can’t remember last time I had to do that.
Thanks. I knew there had to be a good way; just couldn’t think.I use masking tape
Thanks. It’d be worth it: 8, 10, 12 mm. I just work on Japanese cars, mainly. An extendable magnet is within reach at all times. So, when removing a bolt or nut, you try to put some tape around the inside of the socket, I guess.Ko-ken sell "nut-grip" sockets for this purpose, A bit spendy for odd jobs but if it's a critical/regular situation might be worth a look in sizes you use often like 8/10/13mm
Clearance. Long stud, knuckles, tad more reach. Work on enough stuff, and you'll eventually find a situation where a deep socket is beneficial.
I’m replacing an engine in my wife’s car and I find myself doing the same. I even have several different ratchets with different sized sockets so I don’t have to change sockets all the time. Plus I have combo wrenches and DBEs in the sizes I need. After I get to a certain point I put everything away because I’m grabbing the wrong sized wrench that I don’t need anymore.I am a retired vehicle/ aircraft mechanic and I used all the various length of sockets. As a matter of fact my set I used professional followed me home and those sockets still reside in my home shop. Last month when I pulled an engine from a car I used so many different sockets I have to stop every couple hours and inventory and put back in box what I was not using. You eventually will have a need for deep and probably a mid length socket sometime in the future.
So your trucks just have U bolts on front leaf springs? Or is it I haven't moved into the 21st century with my truckWe in Europe dont have that many trucks with U bolts on rear leafsprings so no deep sockets.
Heavy duty trucks and vans would be the same, he probably means there's just far fewer personal-use trucks on the road overall. Even from the ones that are, a lot would have coil springs instead (I think like the Ford Raptors do). But there are certainly a bunch of toyota Hilux-es on the roads...So your trucks just have U bolts on front leaf springs? Or is it I haven't moved into the 21st century with my truck![]()
How would that work for the standard jobs that you do with extra deep sockets (bumper covers…).They do make extra deep sockets now. But at a certain point, aren't you better off with a pass thru socket?
Deep socket plus 12" extension, plus a wobbly, plus another 6" extensionHow would that work for the standard jobs that you do with extra deep sockets (bumper covers…).
He was asking about using a pass through socket in place of an extra deep socket.Deep socket plus 12" extension, plus a wobbly, plus another 6" extension
Yeah I was referring to all the **** it takes to get to the bolts on bumper covers that makes a pass through not usefulHe was asking about using a pass through socket in place of an extra deep socket.