What are some other good U-joint replacement tools?

[DieselSaves]

For about ten years I have been using an OTC ball joint press kit for doing u-joints on drive lines. Before that we used a big vise or shop press and spacers but that usually required two people to do quickly. The OTC press is great for smaller joints but I have run across several yokes with tapered ears on them that keep me from getting a strait shot on them.
Are there any other styles of press available for doing U-joints that might be more versatile?

 

[TinKnocker]

I did them on my 97 z71 a few weekends ago. I used my 5" wilton, some sockets, and some quarters. I also used my 3 ton craftsman jack handle for a cheater on the wilton

 

[signcrafter]

Tiger tools makes a U joint puller, http://www.tigertool.com/product/10102---Universal-Joint-Puller. They make a couple different sizes I think. I've never used one but have read good things about them. If I did more I would look into one.

 

[Double J]

I use the Tiger Tool U-joint press for removal and a just use the C-clamp to install the cups. Makes quick work for removal and have three 4WD vehicles that I can use it on.

 

[Dirty Diesels]

Apart from the cost this Snap-on kit looks like the dogs danglies http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=644058&group_ID=675665&store=uk&dir=catalog

And they do seperates of the kit !

 

[DieselSaves]

Apart from the cost this Snap-on kit looks like the dogs danglies http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=644058&group_ID=675665&store=uk&dir=catalog

And they do seperates of the kit !

That is really close to what I have.

I use the Tiger Tool U-joint press for removal and a just use the C-clamp to install the cups. Makes quick work for removal and have three 4WD vehicles that I can use it on.

I really like the look of this. One is defenitely on the list.

 

[lilredex]

I did them on my 97 z71 a few weekends ago. I used my 5" wilton, some sockets, and some quarters. I also used my 3 ton craftsman jack handle for a cheater on the wilton

Make up some of these....much easier, make the stand too, to hold up the other end.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1886829#post1886829

 

[wafrederick]

Can do it with a hammer and vice too if you don't have the tool.This way,you hit on the weld and not on the driveshaft tube.There are driveshafts you can't get the u joints out,staked in from the factory.The rear driveshaft for the 2004 to 2008 Ford F150s is one of them,you replace the whole rear driveshaft including when the center support bearing goes bad with the 2 piece driveshafts.The center support bearing is laser welded in and there is no replacement u joint listed for them.

 

[Dale1962]

Can do it with a hammer and vice too if you don't have the tool.This way,you hit on the weld and not on the driveshaft tube.There are driveshafts you can't get the u joints out,staked in from the factory.The rear driveshaft for the 2004 to 2008 Ford F150s is one of them,you replace the whole rear driveshaft including when the center support bearing goes bad with the 2 piece driveshafts.The center support bearing is laser welded in and there is no replacement u joint listed for them.

just found that out lol. carrier brg went out on my 04 f150 thought, $100 for a new one. right, try $1300

 

[metaleltr]

Torch, Air hammer, C clamp,

Heat the ears, puch out with air hammer, reassemble with c clamp.

Some may disagree with the heat, but on GM with the bonded cups they need heated until the plastic oozes out, then it pops right out with an air hammer.

 

[TinKnocker]

just found that out lol. carrier brg went out on my 04 f150 thought, $100 for a new one. right, try $1300

Holy ****. That *****.

 

[TinKnocker]

Make up some of these....much easier, make the stand too, to hold up the other end.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1886829#post1886829

I have a good older brother that gave me a hand. It was a 2 man job for sure.

 

[Shadowdog500]

just found that out lol. carrier brg went out on my 04 f150 thought, $100 for a new one. right, try $1300

Ouch!!! Don't know if this thread will help! http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/944153-carrier-bearing-replacement-w-pics.html


Hope this helps, Chris

 

[Toolgarage]

i have the snap on one its a beast

 

[regguy1]

If you use a vise do not clamp the smooth section of the yoke tube in the vise as it will nick it up and cause constant leak from trans seal, I've seen this result many times.

 

[firebox40dash5]

Torch, Air hammer, C clamp,

Heat the ears, puch out with air hammer, reassemble with c clamp.

Some may disagree with the heat, but on GM with the bonded cups they need heated until the plastic oozes out, then it pops right out with an air hammer.

This is my method. Hell, half the time here in Rustland I end up torching the cross out anyway because I can't get both caps to move at once. Pop the caps out with the air hammer, I usually hammer the new ones in by hand. Then work the ears over with a BFH like they owe you money until it's smooth like butter.

 

[Shadowdog500]

I made this cradle out of a piece of box tubing to help push the caps out. I rest the T part of the universal(AKA trunnions) on the cradle and put the socket over the cap and press (or hammer) the cap into the socket opening. You can also use the open jaws of a vise as the cradle.

Here is a video using a cradle and a press.

I priced the tiger tool a few years ago and the price for the set was way too rich for me.

Chris

 

[C96]

Always just used a large vise and sockets, sometimes an air hammer if they were stubborn…..Lol, but those were the easy ones.

 

[ex-x-fire]

Does the Tiger tool install u joints too?

 

[Shadowdog500]

Does the Tiger tool install u joints too?

Nope it just pulls them! You need to buy their cap installer to install them.

Here is the large version of their puller in action.

Here is their installer in action.

If you want both in a kit be prepared to spend about $400 http://www.uniquetruck.com/p-14655-...iateID=10056&gclid=CNvThd3p07sCFQ7xOgodNDEA7A

For the price of this you could buy a press and make a cradle to do this job and a lot more.

Chris

 

[Double J]

Does the Tiger tool install u joints too?

No. They sell a glorified C-clamp to press in the cups, but I found that my $5 Husky clamp works just as well when the ears are cleaned up nice. This allows the cups to press in much easier.

 

[ex-x-fire]

Yeah, I like to have the cup partially in the joint before I start driving it in. You can't do that when installing both at the same time. To much of a chance for a needle to fall.

 

[jayoldschool]

I use the set from Princess Auto. Probably the same as from Harbor Freight.

 

[NHBandit]

You mean there's other ways besides a BFH, an assortment of Chinese impact sockets to beat on and a large well made vice ? Holy hell man, I've been doing it wrong for 40 years. I have also used the OTC balljoint set though.

 

[MattPersman]

Had luck with one tiger piece, the smaller "remover" the other one I have, the larger "remover" bent the first time I used it, forgot to try to get it warrantied and I see a basically brand new one that is bent when I open a drawer at home.

The tiger clamp cup installer is magnetic on the fixed side it is handy but sure is expensive for a c clamp

The snap on bjp1 makes quick work of many of the nylon juiced caps. The hammer method on a vise is used first quite often on easy ones.

 

[signcrafter]

The snap on bjp1 makes quick work of many of the nylon juiced caps. The hammer method on a vise is used first quite often on easy ones.

So you don't have to melt the plastic goo out of the GM caps before pressing them out with the BJP1?

 

[firebox40dash5]

So you don't have to melt the plastic goo out of the GM caps before pressing them out with the BJP1?

I'd be thoroughly impressed if that's true. I did the rear shaft joints on an '09 Dodge diesel a couple weeks ago, and the strength of that goo/fiber **** was insane... almost as insane as causing that much work & mess to save 3 seconds and $0.03 on an assembly line.

 

[PCO6]

I have an old Snap-on CJ.91.C1 kit that's probably from the 60's or 70's. I lifted this pic from the internet but it shows the tool and attachments.

 

[MattPersman]

I do not melt anything, jam the bjp1 on it crank it down, take the drive tool (I use my cordless impact) off whack the socket with a hammer a couple times, tighten more, you will hear the nylon pop no heat required I have done dozens and dozens of them this way.

I am sure someone will say I am doing it wrong, or I am a hack, or something, but I work flat rate and have done so many u joints on dodge trucks it's silly I found my method and is faster, safer and easier than heat IMO. Done plenty of GM too

 

[Double J]

... almost as insane as causing that much work & mess to save 3 seconds and $0.03 on an assembly line.

I agree, you're supposed to heat it up before pressing them out, but what a PITA. It's especially fun when it shoots out like molting hot lava and lands on your arm.

 

[signcrafter]

Out of curiosity how do the factory service manuals tell you to get the ones with the plastic too out? Does the manual say to heat it out?

 

[firebox40dash5]

I do not melt anything, jam the bjp1 on it crank it down, take the drive tool (I use my cordless impact) off whack the socket with a hammer a couple times, tighten more, you will hear the nylon pop no heat required I have done dozens and dozens of them this way.

I am sure someone will say I am doing it wrong, or I am a hack, or something, but I work flat rate and have done so many u joints on dodge trucks it's silly I found my method and is faster, safer and easier than heat IMO. Done plenty of GM too

Are you pressing across both ears, or what? Serious question, I've actually never used "proper" tools to do a U-joint.

If it's pressing across both ears I'd hate to see what it takes to get the ears aligned again. I try to only hammer outward, they tend to distort and bind way too easy if I push inward. One of the reasons I'm pretty quick to just say F it all and torch the cross out, makes it pretty easy to just pop each cap out with the air hammer.

Heating that Dodge joint out what definitely not time-efficient, I had to heat the everloving piss out of every ear.

 

[Double J]

Out of curiosity how do the factory service manuals tell you to get the ones with the plastic too out? Does the manual say to heat it out?

No it actually doesn't, just put it in a vise and press away.

DISASSEMBLY - WITH INJECTED RING
1. Place shaft yoke in vise.
2. Position U-joint press (1) with receiver (2) on propeller
shaft yoke.
3. Pressed U-joint bearing caps (1) out of shaft yoke
(2).
4. Remove lower bearing cap from shaft yoke.

 

[MattPersman]

Yes it's just like remove u joint install new one.

Just put the threaded side with proper piece on one cap, the other open side with proper cup on other side like any u joint replacement don't try to give it the business, just get pressure on the joint itself, hit the socket with a hammer a few times good whacks it may pop then already if not tighten down some more. Don't tighten down so much you ar gonna bend the ears, I never have, I have seen some do it before you just gotta use common sense let the hammer do the work of popping not the press

 

[Heavy tech]

I have the smaller Tiger Tool press for automotive u joints and a big one for heavy truck u joints. I don't think I've torched one since I got them. But it IS possible to spread a yoke with them. The press might be rated for use with a 1" impact, but no yoke will stand that.


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