What are these tools worth?

[1Bad55Chevy]

I got invited to an elderly man's shop today to take a look around. While I was there he told me and my friend that his mind was going and he was going to have to leave his place and wanted to sell all of his tools. He was a furniture maker and has a ton of wood tools that I do not have room for but would love to have. These are a few items that caught my eye and I want to give him a fair offer on them.

1. Holley tune up cabinet
2. Craftsman 101 lathe (works with attachments)
3. Anvil unknown size
4. Reed 204R vise unknown year (works)

Any help will be greatly appreciated

 

[rsanter]

Cabinet 50 to 100
lathe. 400
anvil. 30 to 150 depending
vise. 50

 

[RoninB4]

There's an aroma in this thread.

 

[cvairwerks]

Pricing is also heavily dependent on location. For example, the anvil, depending on maker, could be as little as 100$, but as high as 6$ a pound or more. The lathe might be 3-400$ in some locations and just north of 1000$ in others.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Here in the hinterlands
cabinet 100-400
lathe 400-1000, depends on gears and overall slop
anvil 10-150, the working surface looks shot, needs a sucker
vise 150-250

 

[1Bad55Chevy]

I appreciate everyone's response! I am in the DFW area so idk if that affects anything. I originally thought about offering him $500 for the for the items so that might seem about fair. I am a mechanic so that Holley cabinet is SCREAMING my name!

Could someone give me some tips on what to look for when purchasing a lathe? Again I am a mechanic and want the lathe just to learn on. I have zero experience with machinest work!

Here are some other tools he had he needs to get rid of. I wish I had a bigger shop because buys like this don't come up often!

 

[larry_g]

$500 is a steal but $900-$1000 for the pile is what I would be selling it for. That said how many of the lathe accessories are there and what is in the cabinet? That could sway the price a bit.

 

[cvairwerks]

The Doall is in dire need of some help, but should bring 1K or more. The Newman is going to be probably in the 1.5K+ range and the table saw around 1K. The Powermatic lathe is another at 1K+.

Both the Newman and the Doall are most likely 3 phase machines and you won't have the power capacity to run the planer at home. It's most likely got a 15 hp motor.

On learning, get a copy, either paper or electronic of South Bend's "How to run a lathe".

 

[Cruzan80]

For those valuing the metal lathe, it appears to be a 6", not a 12". There are no back gears, or way to engage them. This means it is a much lighter machine, capable of less both in capacity and rigidity. I would be surprised to see it sell over $400, due to that. If it was a 12", then the $400-600 range would be a bit more accurate.

Could someone give me some tips on what to look for when purchasing a lathe? Again I am a mechanic and want the lathe just to learn on. I have zero experience with machinest work!

Ideally, you would put it on a surface plate, and see how much wear the bed has from end to end. If you can feel a ridge where the saddle slides vs the rest of the bed rail, that is another way to rough-test. Take each piece and make sure there is no slop or shake in it. If possible, turn it on, listen and see if it is making any bad noises and if everything moves freely. Check under the headstock cover for the biggest gear, see if any teeth are worn/broken (sometimes happens when trying to remove a chuck).

Based on what I see, the lathe is super basic. There should be several change gears, so you can vary the amount the lead-screw (under the bed) turns compared to the chuck. It looks like a three jaw chuck, which is ok, but not as versatile as a 4-jaw. Hopefully he has other tool holders (the thing sticking out of the cross-slide), both straight and a left-bend.

Any other accessories are helpful but could be sourced elsewhere (depending on item, $$ to $$$). Things like a steady rest (looks like a a mounted circular guide with arms sticking in), a heavier tool post, a 4jaw as mentioned, a follow rest (kind a curvy shape with two arms that would bolt behind the saddle), a micro-stop, etc.

Also see the first part about sizing. Atlas made a 6" and 12" lathe (total diameter of swing, so ~3"-6" from bed rails to center of chuck). The 6" were most commonly 18" between centers (from chuck to front top of tailstock), whereas the 12" can go from 24-36".

 

[subroc]

I wouldn't value that lathe at $400.

That is a 6"

It does have back gears.

Note the tool post slide and the saddle handles. Both busted off.

The head stock says atlas while the cover says craftsman is likely from another machine. Maybe it means something. Maybe it doesn't. I would certainly look for damage.

Does have half nuts to engage the lead screw for threading.

Does not have cross feed.

These are light duty. Even the Atlas 10" or the Craftsman 12" are light duty.

 

[slowtwitch73]

I think 500 offer is more than fair

 

[The Bean]

If I hadn't already picked up a table saw...

 

[1Bad55Chevy]

Would this machine be a better buy for me? I thought the smaller machine would have been easier to learn on since I have no experience outside of a brake lathe. Sorry for the crappy picture!

I really appreciate everyone's response! My friend that took me over to this man's shop is 85 (i am 39) and he is super sharp! I think the man selling this equipment is older. It dosen't seem like he has anyone to help him so I am going to give his wife a list of prices for this stuff and try to find him buyers on Marketplace. The real money in that shop is the massive pile of furniture grade hard woods he has in the back. He was a furniture maker and that lumber rack is wild!

 

[Cruzan80]

That is a 6"

It does have back gears.

Thanks for the correction. I thought the 6" did have back gears, but couldn't see the engagement handle (I have a 12", and handle must be in a different spot that I am used to).

Would this machine be a better buy for me? I thought the smaller machine would have been easier to learn on since I have no experience outside of a brake lathe. Sorry for the crappy picture!

The advantage of a bigger machine is rigidity. You can still put small stuff in a bigger machine, but the extra weight helps to keep it locked down.

Yes, Atlas are lighter machines compared to some, but can still be able to do good work. And the physical footprint/weight makes them attractive to home shop, so there is a large market if you decide to upgrade. They also made tons of them for decades, so pars are easier to come by than for some others.

The one pictured last seems to be an earlier machine (the knob on the apron was swapped to a handle on later models, as well as the tailstock lock). It does have a 4-jaw chuck, and it is the bigger 10 or 12" model. Not sure exactly how old, but may have the funky F/R lever down by the leadscrew (edge of tarp). The tray of oils sitting on the bed isn't a great sign for it being well taken care of, but that could have easily been family after the fact. I am not an expert in the earlier ones, but I would be hesitant to go to a Babbit model as your first lathe (vs Timken bearings in the headstock). I also know they changed bed thicknesses from 3/8 to 1/2" vertically at some point, and all of the 1/2" version is supposed to be hardened, vs some of the 3/8 (not sure when it swapped, but all 10" are 3/8).

The same parts about change gears and other accessories apply, and this one is missing the lantern tool post (the thing that holds the cutting bits). You can always get a fancier post, but you do need "something" to make it work.

 

[subroc]

Thanks for the correction. I thought the 6" did have back gears, but couldn't see the engagement handle (I have a 12", and handle must be in a different spot that I am used to).

I have a 12" as well. Certainly a usable machine.

The engagement handle is small.

 

[woody 73]

His larger machines are all of very well-made American names and in my area the dealers would offer you little money and sell them at a high dollar amount. With that being said if you bought them, I also suspect they are 3 phase motors that would need some kind of converter put into your shop in order to run them, plus you would need a way to move them to your shop.

 

[subroc]

OP, there are certainly cautions when buying any old machines. Buyer beware. But, if you are a woodworker owning a Powermatic saw or wood lathe would certainly be worth any effort to repair/restore it if gotten for a fair price.

On that atlas lathe in the last image, there is a forward/reverse gearbox. If that is damaged/crashed it is "sort of" unobtainium. Make sure you know the condition of that before making any offer.

 

[1Bad55Chevy]

Ok, doing my research on this i think the bigger unit is a Atlas 618. I have read extensively now about Babbit bearings and identifying wear on these units so I think I am better prepared to make an offer. I think all the missing parts are in that shop but the old man dosen't know what all he even has in that shop or where anything is. I know I was opening drawers and he was very curious about what was inside.

I should be going back over there in the middle of the week. I am supposed to go out and search an old black Smith shop at my friend's house that collapsed a few years ago. He said there are leg vises, a forge, and a anvil in there and I can have whatever I want.

I appreciate everyone's responses and I will let you know what happens. I will post more pics of things I find since I assume everyone here loves hunting old tools as much as me!

 

[slowtwitch73]

Get that stack of drawers by the Atlas!

 

[1982fxr]

Pricing is also heavily dependent on location. For example, the anvil, depending on maker, could be as little as 100$, but as high as 6$ a pound or more. The lathe might be 3-400$ in some locations and just north of 1000$ in others.

I have to respectfully disagree that that lathe could ever go for over a grand anywhere. Even half that is crazy at least around here in AZ.

 

[cvairwerks]

I have to respectfully disagree that that lathe could ever go for over a grand anywhere. Even half that is crazy at least around here in AZ.

There are two for sale within a couple of hundred miles of me right now. One is completely disassembled and has no tooling. He wants just under 500 for it. There is another that is on a steel table and has some tooling and it is running and he's asking 1000 for it. A South Bed 9, of which there are two for sale near me, one looks like it just got dug our of a dirt pile, and they want 1000 for the bare lathe. The othe SB has a bed beat up bad in some places and some tooling with it and they want over 2K for it.

East coast near NYC, Detroit in the midwest and within a day of LA on the west coast and you would see better pricing. The central US and the Gulf Coast, it's harder to find the smaller machine tools compared to bigger stuff. Want a 24x 240, lathe, you can get one down here for about scrap weight price.
Small stuff around here goes for bigger money than elsewhere. Even a clapped out Monarch 10 EE with no drive system is going to set you back at least 3k$. Been watching for either a Monarch 10 EE or a Rivett 1020/1030/ S or R model that I could afford for years now and still haven't found one.

 

[subroc]

618 stands for 6 inch swing 18 inch bed.

on the 10 inch there is a "V" that stands for vertical. An "H" that stands for horizontal. "T" stands for Timkin.

So, an H42 would be a horizontal lathe with a 42 inch bed and babbit bearings. A TV54 would be a vertical lathe with 54 inch bed and Timkin bearings.

 

[1982fxr]

There are two for sale within a couple of hundred miles of me right now. One is completely disassembled and has no tooling. He wants just under 500 for it. There is another that is on a steel table and has some tooling and it is running and he's asking 1000 for it. A South Bed 9, of which there are two for sale near me, one looks like it just got dug our of a dirt pile, and they want 1000 for the bare lathe. The othe SB has a bed beat up bad in some places and some tooling with it and they want over 2K for it.

East coast near NYC, Detroit in the midwest and within a day of LA on the west coast and you would see better pricing. The central US and the Gulf Coast, it's harder to find the smaller machine tools compared to bigger stuff. Want a 24x 240, lathe, you can get one down here for about scrap weight price.
Small stuff around here goes for bigger money than elsewhere. Even a clapped out Monarch 10 EE with no drive system is going to set you back at least 3k$. Been watching for either a Monarch 10 EE or a Rivett 1020/1030/ S or R model that I could afford for years now and still haven't found one.

Sounds like they're not actually selling at those prices?
I've bought and sold a couple and my experience is asking price and selling price can be astronomically different. Lathes exemplify that maybe more than any other piece of equipment.

 

[cvairwerks]

Sounds like they're not actually selling at those prices?
I've bought and sold a couple and my experience is asking price and selling price can be astronomically different. Lathes exemplify that maybe more than any other piece of equipment.

Typically an Atlas will last for about two weeks and a South Bend about three before being sold unless they are very close in to the DFW or Houston metro areas. In both of these cases, the lathes are out in the the middle of nowhere, so probably will be gone by the end of the month. Bigger lathes, such as a 13x40 or larger, last about a week online, until you get into the really big stuff that is 7.5 hp and larger.

 

[Banjorear]

That lathe is great to learn on but would be very limited in its actual use as someone mentioned above it's a 6". It was designed to be a hobbyist model for someone to do small protects on.

To give you an idea of the size as a mechanic, for example, I don't think you could chuck up a small block Chevy distributor and turn it down for use in a flathead Ford. I hope that helps give reference.

 

[cvairwerks]

To give you an idea of the size as a mechanic, for example, I don't think you could chuck up a small block Chevy distributor and turn it down for use in a flathead Ford. I hope that helps give reference.

My usual comment to new buyers is figure out the biggest thing you want to make, add 20% to all the dimensions and then look for something that has that capability or more.

 

[Banjorear]

My usual comment to new buyers is figure out the biggest thing you wan to make, add 20% to all the dimensions and then look for something that has that capability or more.

Good Advice

 

[1Bad55Chevy]

Get that stack of drawers by the Atlas!

Thats the plan. I think all the pieces to that lathe are in there. I opened 1 drawer and there were bits in it. He has a good number of those type of machinest drawers all loaded with stuff. You can see a really big green set in the background of this picture in also want.

618 stands for 6 inch swing 18 inch bed.

on the 10 inch there is a "V" that stands for vertical. An "H" that stands for horizontal. "T" stands for Timkin.

So, an H42 would be a horizontal lathe with a 42 inch bed and babbit bearings. A TV54 would be a vertical lathe with 54 inch bed and Timkin bearings.

Ok then it's not a 618. People said earlier it's a 10" or 12" machine. I am not going to lie... there is more knowledge on this thread then I will ever hold!

Typically an Atlas will last for about two weeks and a South Bend about three before being sold unless they are very close in to the DFW or Houston metro areas. In both of these cases, the lathes are out in the the middle of nowhere, so probably will be gone by the end of the month. Bigger lathes, such as a 13x40 or larger, last about a week online, until you get into the really big stuff that is 7.5 hp and larger.

Thats the problem with this stuff.. We are technically in the DFW because everything keeps pushing out here but this ranch is out by Emory and nobody is going to want to make the drive!