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What are/(were) your most USELESS tools?

Dimitri

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Feb 28, 2013
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250
Location
Toronto
My Jeep Cherokee uses them for the bolts that hold the front unit bearings to the knuckle, I think Grands and possibly Wronglers use the same setup.

Lot's of Chrysler (and European) vehicles use E-Torx.

11mm is a standard head size for DIN fasteners. For being a "standard" why are there three different columns in this chart?

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/metric-bolt-head-wrench-size-d_1458.html

First Column is American, second is European, and third is Japanese.

Chrysler, effectively uses DIN (due to Daimler's influence I'd imagine), except 11mm is a rarity I find, but they threw in 15mm.

Dimitri
 
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tjmonsen5

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Oct 14, 2009
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1,341
Location
Crystal Lake IL
E-torx is a must have for a bmw owner. Head bolts, transmission bell housing bolts and oil pan bolts. I'm glad I have a set, not too expensive from craftsman for the few times I use them. Also, the plier style oil filter pliers are great, I use mine all the time.

My useless tools are mini craftsman needle nose pliers. Those things always slip since they have smooth jaws, stupid!
 

Talus

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Apr 15, 2012
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114
Location
Southside CT
img8696.jpg


This oil filter removal tool. I needed something and bought this on a whim. Was full of disbelief but I figured sometimes you can be wrong.

3 seconds of fiddling with it on the filter I realized that I was right. What a waste of time. I drove right back to the store and returned it.
 

Kev442

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Jan 15, 2009
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5,386
Location
Wi
Used an 11mm on the banjo bolts on my wife's GM car today. 6,8 & 9mm are used very little in my set.
 

nanofrog

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Mar 1, 2012
Messages
1,323
My useless tools are mini craftsman needle nose pliers. Those things always slip since they have smooth jaws, stupid!
Small, smooth jaw pliers like this do have their uses (needle/chain, flat, round). Meant for bending component leads & wire where you cannot have any nicks (i.e. avionics/NASA/Mil Spec standards).

For more general purpose use though, teeth are definitely desirable IMHO.

In my case, I have and use both types.
 

cw_racefan

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Joined
Feb 7, 2006
Messages
254
img8696.jpg


This oil filter removal tool. I needed something and bought this on a whim. Was full of disbelief but I figured sometimes you can be wrong.

3 seconds of fiddling with it on the filter I realized that I was right. What a waste of time. I drove right back to the store and returned it.

Interesting, I have one of those and use it all the time, works great, especially for removing
stubborn filters.
 

n8n

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Mar 11, 2014
Messages
3,607
Location
Curtis Bay, MD
Lot's of Chrysler (and European) vehicles use E-Torx.

First Column is American, second is European, and third is Japanese.

Yeah, I know... just that I thought the big promise of metric was it to make things simpler!

E-torx is a must have for a bmw owner. Head bolts, transmission bell housing bolts and oil pan bolts. I'm glad I have a set, not too expensive from craftsman for the few times I use them. Also, the plier style oil filter pliers are great, I use mine all the time.

My useless tools are mini craftsman needle nose pliers. Those things always slip since they have smooth jaws, stupid!

Well now I feel better about having them... I actually bought them for the Jeep, but my next vehicular purchase was propellor themed...
 

hogdoc

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Feb 15, 2014
Messages
31
Location
Id Ho
So what do you work on that you can't buy parts for??

Do you do machining as hobby ... umm ... for fun :) , or do you do machining because it's PRACTICAL?

The oldest thing I had to fix up was 1950's forklift. I THOUGHT I'd have to get some parts custom made, but actually was able to buy everything I needed either as direct replacement or adapt from other automotvie applications (starter, hydraulics, brakes master cylinder, etc).

Typical automotive jobs I've been bringing to machine shop - resurfacing cylinder heads, turning brake rotors, valve grinding - were all under a $100. For cylinder heads it might be a bit over a $100 depends on the shop.

How much $$$'s worth is in climate controlled shop space that is being used up by the lathe/mill/surface grinder, tooling and metal stock? I figure it would be a hundred bucks a month or more. And that's just fixed cost, month after month regardless if machining equipment gets used or not. Some choose to ignore that cost, because it's indirect - but dry, accessible, heated/air conditioned floor space is rarely truly free.

For cheap equipment - typically it's cheap equipment that needed repairs, parts and additional tooling = time and money. More importantly what's the total cost of having equipment setup and working in your shop? So you buy a 14 ft gear head lathe with a 20" chuck for $500, but what's your total cost with rigging, moving and setup included?

Do you keep track of how much time you spend machining parts and how much $$$ your end product is worth vs how much $$$ your time is worth?

You are obviously a buy and replace guy and not a fix/make/restore type of guy, thats OK, some people are like that, my boss is just like you, every time I talk about the things I make or restore he asks why dont I just buy a new one?
1. Old tools/parts are generally better quality and will last longer.
2. Pride in being able to make something that someone like him HAS to buy.
3. Getting it the way I want it not good/close enough.

Being here at GJ one would think youve seen many threads about restoring old tools, making things from scratch or scrap, taking pride in what YOU have made. Not what some 12 year old in China made.

My 1st lathe I used the **** out of, moved it 6 times (rented a fork lift each time) then got stupid 1 day, sold it and had a local machinist make some of my parts for me, well that got old the 1st time I needed to make something to fix a bike right now and could have spent 2 minutes on the lathe.

So I picked up a new lathe/mill combo and will NEVER be without one again.
I have easily made a 1000 parts on my lathes, made and modified tools you CANT buy!
 

66dave

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Joined
Nov 28, 2010
Messages
197
Location
Boise!
Jigsaw , hate the ****** thing , blade always wanders , cuts a straight line on the surface whilst underneath a wobbly mess ,I even bought a expensive jigsaw thinking it would be better, still ****.

I would agree with you 100%, Until two months ago I thought jigsaw was a curse word. A friend of mine let me try out the festool carved 420, with the clear insert installed, the unit is amazing. Cuts wee amazingly straight, and the light pulses like a timing light during the down stroke (like a timing light). Minimal tare out (basically none on both sides) on 3/4" Cherry plywood, yeah that **** is pricy at $130 a sheet to use a jigsaw on.

Maybe try it out :dunno:
 

Chuck Farley

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Joined
Jun 15, 2013
Messages
224
Various oil filter wrenches of various types.
Transmission jack - just try adjusting the tilt on one of those bleepers when there is a trans on it! (and then it wobbles too much to be of any help anyway)
Robo grips
Most wire strippers
Philips or slot screw drivers (once you get used to Robertsons, its worth making special trips to Canada to get 'em - along with the screws)
Most battery chargers

And then there are the countless things I have gotten, so I can learn how to use 'em! (Stick, Mig & Tig welders, lathe, paint guns, body shop tools, etc, etc.)


One thing I'm curious about - the mention of "How much $$$'s worth is in climate controlled shop space that is being used up by the....." (if I could afford a heated & air conditoned shop, I could afford to buy what I want and not have to make or repair stuff at all!)
 

Letsgobowhunting

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Joined
Jun 23, 2013
Messages
210
Location
Village of Clinton, N.E. Ohio
A saying that my family refers to is "its about the journey and not the destination". Anyone can buy something or pay to have it fixed.
You are obviously a buy and replace guy and not a fix/make/restore type of guy, thats OK, some people are like that, my boss is just like you, every time I talk about the things I make or restore he asks why dont I just buy a new one?
1. Old tools/parts are generally better quality and will last longer.
2. Pride in being able to make something that someone like him HAS to buy.
3. Getting it the way I want it not good/close enough.

Being here at GJ one would think youve seen many threads about restoring old tools, making things from scratch or scrap, taking pride in what YOU have made. Not what some 12 year old in China made.

My 1st lathe I used the **** out of, moved it 6 times (rented a fork lift each time) then got stupid 1 day, sold it and had a local machinist make some of my parts for me, well that got old the 1st time I needed to make something to fix a bike right now and could have spent 2 minutes on the lathe.



So I picked up a new lathe/mill combo and will NEVER be without one again.
I have easily made a 1000 parts on my lathes, made and modified tools you CANT buy!
 

onthefence777

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Joined
Feb 19, 2012
Messages
404
With out a doubt the Mitytvac brake bleeding kit. Best part of it was the vinyl tubing that came with it.

I thought the same thing! It was such a PITA until I gave up and used the two person pump method. Until I needed to use it in conjunction with a vacuum gauge to test an EGR valve...I kept randomly thinking when I was in the garage I should just toss the thing...won't think about that again.

I would kill for a mill or lathe. I can think of tons of stuff I'd use one for. Then again, I want to get into more fab work.

^^^^ This.

A saying that my family refers to is "its about the journey and not the destination". Anyone can buy something or pay to have it fixed.

^^^^ Indeed.

I must state however, that it is my intention to use my future machining equipment primarily for prototyping, as I am hoping someday my intelligence and well rounded electrical/mechanical/physics knowledge leads to a crafty invention...but I need to have the skills and experience with machining first. But it is also a hobby and may possibly remain that way. I do have projects lined up for as soon as I do get a mill, however.

The most useless tool I have now would have to be my tire changer. Its an old pneumatic one just like what I used back in high school auto class. I have never used it. I have paid shops to mount my tires even after I bought it because its not hooked up yet. But in possible dire times, I wouldn't want to be stuck with no way to change a tire. I wasn't looking to buy one, but couldn't pass it up for $125 when a shop was going out of business. It just may be a life saver some day.

As far as a shop press, I would already have one if I didn't have access to one. I just used one last week to replace ball joints in a lower control arm.
 
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oldjamesy

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Joined
Mar 13, 2012
Messages
66
Location
Southern tier of NY
Black and Decker Snakelight . Good for the storage of C batteries and not much else .

Stanley Fubar . I tried to make it work , really I did , but I was the only one working on the relationship , we just couldn't reconcile .

I didn't own any , but I remember those vinyl gripped t handle springy spark plug sockets .

Also , somewhat related . I think Bob Villa was a worthless tool relative to his relationship with the Craftsman brand. I don't care how much real world talent he had in the building trade , he was a poor spokesperson .Every time I heard him say "another Craftsman innovation " I shuddered .
 

bushmechanic

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Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Messages
4,820
This is the thread that finally brought me to the forum.:thumbup:

1: My welder... Yup. I'll admit it.

Some time ago, I bought a Miller 210. It was a very nice welder, and I resisted selling it, because it's one of those things you just won't get around to buying again. I just couldn't weld to my own standards.

Also playing a part in the decision is the fact that a welder requires a number of tools to create the projects that require welding to begin with.

2: I'm stepping in on that MityVac pistol grip vacuum brake bleeder. :D I've had three over the years, as I'm clearly a glutton for punishment. I've never once managed to bleed brakes with one of those things. I do, however, use the Craftsman Professional kit (which is the same as the top-tier MityVac) regularly for general vacuum tasks.

Now, there's nothing wrong with MityVac as a brand. I've got a really nice MityVac pressure bleeder. It is a very high quality kit. The problem is that single-man vacuum bleeder. I dislike them all, regardless of their manufacturer.

3: I have some Robogrip pliers. I do grab them occasionally for the odd job in the garage, but that's not why I own them. For outdoor use, they are good to have, even with a complete tool kit in tow.

In the garage, there's really no excuse to pick them up instead of the proper tool. They are great when you've just got to get a vehicle going no matter what. They have an unbelievable number of uses in that regard.

4: I own a RotoZip as well, and I don't much like it. I'm fairly certain this is a tool primarily meant for use in house construction. I personally find it uncomfortable to use, given it's small size and incredible power. It just seems overly dangerous.

5: I'll probably be the first person in the history of the world to say this, but I dislike my Dremel. I use it often enough, but it's quite a hassle, and I tend to use hand tools simply to avoid unfurling it's massive array of parts and enduring lower than expected performance. I think I need a better product, because one of my hobbies really benefits from something like a Dremel.

I'm sure I'll think of more.
 

Ruger_556

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Joined
Dec 8, 2013
Messages
4,005
Shallow impact sockets. I bought them because they were the only size i could get and needed some normal sockets but decided I was going to get an impact gun.

Everything I needed them for seems to require a deep socket.

I use the shallows constantly so my 1/2" gun will fit :dunno:

E-torx sockets. Bought a set in 1988 for a job on a Dodge Omni. Haven't owned a vehicle since, that uses these fasteners. But after 26 years, I'll never get rid of them because you know that Murphy would take that opportunity to kick me square in the nuts.:eyecrazy:

Used to work on Freightliner trucks that used those everywhere.

Used an 11mm on the banjo bolts on my wife's GM car today. 6,8 & 9mm are used very little in my set.

I use an 8 mm constantly... On 5/16 hose clamps :lol_hitti
 

fredtech

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Joined
Aug 16, 2007
Messages
53
Location
Manvel, Texas
Glad I'm not the only one who detests the Craftsman ratcheting wrenches. Seemed useful, but every time I put one to work, and I mean EVERY TIME, that little plastic plunger thingy fails to engage/disengage and I end up trying to coax the wrench into doing the sole job it exists for, but can't.

And then it goes back into the drawer and I do the job with a combination wrench or socket and ratchet....they look decent in the drawer I suppose...

That's good to hear. I almost bought a set last month because the were on special on the Craftsman web site. I starting doubting when I saw how cheap to were selling compare to the regular polished set...
I'm glad I passed on that deal :)
 
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AlanE

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Mar 3, 2014
Messages
80
Location
Englewood, FL
One of those "drill presses" that's just a stand you strap a regular drill motor into. I still don't know what I was thinking :dunno:
I used mine about a dozen times. Now it has so much junk cluttered around it. I'll have a use for it again some day. Was nice for drilling holes in flat bar and angle brackets.
 

PnHmech

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Joined
Mar 17, 2014
Messages
79
Location
South jersey
Senlow, I love the piston hammer, but I don't use it for engines.

I'd have to say the craftsman clench wrench


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Taildragger

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Joined
Jun 20, 2013
Messages
100
Location
Central Iowa
:thumbup: the all-purpose butter knife slash screw driver for one.

You know that one really good chisel that you keep razor sharp for when you need a nice cut? My spouse used it for a screwdriver...
(Yes we are still married, i managed to let it go. sort of.)
 

tcianci

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Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
4,242
Location
Walpole, Ma
Craftsman PRO Auto Lock Pliers
Biggest POS ever made.:sad:


I bout a pair of "skil" branded locking pliers similar tho those at Depot last week on closeout. I was wondering if they were on closeout because of the high initial price or because they were junk. I can report that my newest tool acquisition is also the biggest POS I have ever bought. They jam when you try to use them and for all of the aggressiveness of the teeth on the jaws, the can't seem to hold on to a thing. I guess you don't have to go all the way to HF to buy a piece of **** any more.
 

Paticus

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Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
77
Location
San Francisco Bay Area, CA
So what do you work on that you can't buy parts for??

I build lots of things from scratch and by my own design, so rather than build it around prefabbed parts, I just make it the way I want. This is especially true when prototyping. It usually takes many revs- so not having to pay a machinist, drive back and forth, explain changes, and work around their 9-5 hours is huge.

How much $$$'s worth is in climate controlled shop space that is being used up by the lathe/mill/surface grinder, tooling and metal stock? I figure it would be a hundred bucks a month or more. And that's just fixed cost, month after month regardless if machining equipment gets used or not. Some choose to ignore that cost, because it's indirect - but dry, accessible, heated/air conditioned floor space is rarely truly free.

Regardless if I have a lathe or not, my shop needs to be dry and is climate controlled. Hundreds a month??

More importantly what's the total cost of having equipment setup and working in your shop? So you buy a 14 ft gear head lathe with a 20" chuck for $500, but what's your total cost with rigging, moving and setup included?

You would pay somebody to setup your lathe for you lol?? :dunno: The "rigging" (I think you mean tooling) came with the lathe which I picked up for a whopping $500 and I moved it myself.

Do you keep track of how much time you spend machining parts and how much $$$ your end product is worth vs how much $$$ your time is worth?

In a matter of fact the lathe paid for itself on it's very first project.

Your argument is erroneous!! :beer:
 

Riverside

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Oct 11, 2011
Messages
239
Location
Asheville, NC
I have to add to the chorus about the Coleman Cold Heat soldering tool. Most bad tools kind of work. I was not able to solder ANYTHING with it. I bought it to replace my ~35 year old cheap plug-in soldering/wood-burning tool, which had a faulty cord. I thought I was treating myself to an upgrade. WRONG. I got rid of the Coleman junk and went out and bought HF's cheap plug-in soldering iron. It works fine for my occasional use. Few tools have frustrated me like the Cold Heat soldering tool.
 

Tejaas

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Mar 13, 2013
Messages
743
Location
TX Hill Country
Small, smooth jaw pliers like this do have their uses (needle/chain, flat, round). Meant for bending component leads & wire where you cannot have any nicks (i.e. avionics/NASA/Mil Spec standards).



For more general purpose use though, teeth are definitely desirable IMHO.



In my case, I have and use both types.


Haha yes sir.

Perfect example is 20 thousandths copper lock wire on VHF/UHF/FM/SATCOM radio zeroize switch covers.


~Tejaas~

WTB: Snap-On Orange Hard Handle SDD6 & SSDP63 in Very Good Condition!
 

twertsy

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Joined
Jan 5, 2014
Messages
6,726
Location
Reedville, VA
I think I posted this before. Have no idea what it is and therefore, it's my most useless tool. Thought it was a knurling tool but no wheels? Says "King" on the shank/handle I believe. "grip" is only about an inch or so.
 

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Krusty

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Jun 27, 2005
Messages
54
Location
Virginia
It "looks" like it might be useful for holding brake tubing as you bent it with another tool? My most useless tool was a Zyliss vise kit. I never throw tools away, because, y'know… but I tossed that one.
 

twertsy

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Jan 5, 2014
Messages
6,726
Location
Reedville, VA
It "looks" like it might be useful for holding brake tubing as you bent it with another tool? My most useless tool was a Zyliss vise kit. I never throw tools away, because, y'know… but I tossed that one.

You know what, that's one I've never heard. Makes sense though given it's very limited range of motion. But, the shank looks more like it would slide into a slot on a lathe or something. Very heavy duty tool. If it helps, I inherited this from my Grandfather who worked for IR all his life.
 
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