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What does Defender Chassis do?

Defender Chassis

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It was suggested in another thread that I have not been open enough about what I do in my shop. I am going to use this thread to show off a little. Please do not take this as bragging. I am opening up in the hope that it makes this forum a better place not to pump up my ego.
 

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Defender Chassis

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The pics detail some work that I did last year for a local racers project car for his 18yo son. The car is a 74' Plymouth Duster and is currently complete. I will try to get some pics of the finished car. The first two are of a motor plate I built to install a 406ci big block Mopar. The K-frame had to be modified before the motor woulod sit between the fenders. The third and fourth pic is of the cage I built. The main part of the cage is 4130 tube, 1-5/8" dia. 0.083 wall thickness. The forward bars shown in the fourth pic are hidden beneath the inners for a cleaner look and are made from 1-5/8 x 0.120 wall DOM for more stiffness than the chromoly would provide. The last pic is of the new steering column I fabricated. I also did a complete tin interior for this car and will post pics if there is interest.
 
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Defender Chassis

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These are pics of another job from last year. Its a Monza full tube chassis car. The car was built by a local guy several years ago. It was out of service for several years and my customer bought it and it currently racing it at a local 1/8th mile track. I added a shoulder bar to bring the cage up to NHRA requirements, built a custom shifter mount, installed a new aluminum seat, installed a window net and added some lateral braces to eliminate motor plate flexing. The car came back later for some firewall modifications so that the ****** could be removed from inside the car w/o removing the engine. A must have if you run a powerglide.
 

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Defender Chassis

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well then i guess i can't offer to send you any work lol

You can offer but I do not think anyone would be willing to make the trip. Thanks for the thought though.

If there is any interest I have some pics of the work I did to the airplane this year. Its a 1942 Piper Cub J2 (maybe a J4). I cut the tail off at at leat 3' from the rear and rebuilt it with new tubing. The fram was made of the same chromoly tubing as I use on the race cars but was no bigger than 3/4" in dia. and 0.035" wall thickness. It was a challenge to say the least.
 

eborcim

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How do you attach tin to the body to make it solid (I do see some pop rivets in seams)...especially when you fab a floorpan? On our circle track cars we just brake flanges in aluminum and pop rivet pieces together.

Nice work BTW :beer:
 
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Defender Chassis

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Depends on whether the panel needs to be removed or not. I use pop rivets if it needs to be semi permanent. If I need quick access I use Dzus fasteners. You may have seen these before. They look like they take a large screwdriver to remove and only require a 1/4 turn to release. The body on my dragster is hung with Dzus fasteners.
 
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Defender Chassis

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dzus5.jpg
 

eborcim

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I've thought about Dzus fasteners on the car, but dirt track racing is too rough on: 1. the Dzus and 2. the wallet for replacing them regularly. Large head pop rivets are easy and will hold quite a bit.
 

babzog

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If there is any interest I have some pics of the work I did to the airplane this year. Its a 1942 Piper Cub J2 (maybe a J4). I cut the tail off at at leat 3' from the rear and rebuilt it with new tubing. The fram was made of the same chromoly tubing as I use on the race cars but was no bigger than 3/4" in dia. and 0.035" wall thickness. It was a challenge to say the least.

Hell ya!! :thumbup: Would love to see that!

From your first post: Dude, you ain't braggin' at all! Nothing wrong in my book with showing off your work to folks who appreciate it. Thanks for sharing!
 

mulepackin

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Not bragging at all. Thats what this section of the forum is for; to showcase your work, maybe inspire someone else, even give somebody an idea or "why didn't I think of that". Very nice work. Thanks for sharing.
 

GN4WHLN

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Defender Chassis,
I wouldn't take it as bragging at all. Thanks for sharing your work. I like having a chance to take a close look at what other people, especially a professional, have built. It gives me an opportunity to learn and put away ideas for projects. Besides, who doesn't like looking at a really cool project?
 

pipehack

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Defender Chassis..... I love seeing this kind of stuff. Please post more often. I'm a bike guy, but I have a first love with drag cars.
 
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Defender Chassis

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Here are some pics of what I started with. It is a 1942 Piper Cub J?. The owner is restoring it. He mentioned something about this only being the 7th of this model still in existance. The owner had given a shot at making the repairs with a Harbor Freight mig welder. When that did not work out he called me to come out and give him some advice. As you can see there were previous repairs that were not done correctly. When I suggested cutting at least 3' off of the tail he got a little nervous. Fact is that there was not much worth saving. I am having trouble locating the finished pics. I think they may be on the camera. I will post after pics when I find them.
 

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Defender Chassis

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Here are a few more from the start of this project. The last few are of the setup of the rear vertical tube. I treated this like a tube chassis car and setup the extreme pieces of the assembly and then built everything in between.
 

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kbs2244

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I hope you don’t run into legal problems with the plane.

That is what they call a “certificated” plane.
That means only FAA licensed guys can work on it, or inspect the work others do.

They have to sign the planes log book as to what was done and that they think it was done to the original factory specs.
They are putting their job on the line when signing.

And you cannot just “wing it” as to the style of the repairs.
It has to be the way the factory originally did it.
 
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Defender Chassis

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I hope you don’t run into legal problems with the plane.

That is what they call a “certificated” plane.
That means only FAA licensed guys can work on it, or inspect the work others do.

They have to sign the planes log book as to what was done and that they think it was done to the original factory specs.
They are putting their job on the line when signing.

And you cannot just “wing it” as to the style of the repairs.
It has to be the way the factory originally did it.

Although I will have to admit that I am not up to speed as to all the requirements for doing repairs to this type of aircraft, I can asure you that I did not "wing it." I had a long talk with the owner before starting the work and I believe he is a licensed inspector. All repairs were done as outlined in FAA AC 43.13. In addition, I am not sure this plane will even be flown when completed. It may be just for his private collection. I know I wouldnt have flown it it when new let alone now. In addition, from the looks of the repairs that had been done before and the plane was stil flown I would say my work will be more than adequate.

This project actually helped me out in other ways. NHRA states that repairs to race car chassis must be done per generally accepted aviation repair practices. When asked about those practices they do not really know where to point you. After looking at FAA AC 43.13, I now know how those repairs should be done. The cost of that document was only $12 + shipping. Well worth it in my opinion.

Im having trouble locating the finished pics. Not sure what happened. I may have to slip out to the owners house and snap a few.
 

kbs2244

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There are two broad types of aircraft mechanics.
An “A” rating means you can work on anything in the plane but the electronics and power plant.
A “P” rating means you can work on the power plant.
(It used to be "A&E” for “engine”, but the jets changed that.)
Most guys get both and are called an “A&P”
Electronics is almost always a separate guy.

I believe there is another level called “With inspection authority” or something similar.

If the plane is going to be forever parked or hung from a ceiling in a museum, you have nothing to worry about.
But if anybody in the future might want to fly it, you have to do it by the book or it will mean a complete teardown and re-inspection.

The FAA has the records of every plane built in the US.
When it was built, by who, who has owned it, where it has been owned, everything.
Some of these records are over 100 years old.
The are classic bureaucrats,
Everything by the book and never throw anything away.

Airplanes are by far the most regulated machines in America.
Even to the point of what gas you put in it.
You have to get government permission to run auto gas in them because it is so hard to get the leaded gas the engines were designed for.
And I believe the permission is only granted after a licensed mechanic has gone through a step by step conversion of anything that may be affected.

I can see you do good work.
And if this project helped you learn something, all the better.
Unfortunately, it is not a case of if you do good work.
It is a case of if you are allowed to do any work.

If your owner has “Inspection” authority, you both should be OK.

BTW
I am not an A&E or even a licensed pilot.
But my dad was WW II Naval Aviation and then a flight instructor and A&E in civilian life.
I have been around air planes all my life and kick myself regularly for not getting my pilots license.
But, at the time, flying was just something my dad did to put food on the table.
No different than the other guys dads delivering milk, or clerking at the hardware store.
 
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Defender Chassis

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Thanks for the clarification. Either way, the owner has been around this stuff his whole life and he will be the one responsible for dotting the I's and crossing the T's. We discussed this beforehand and he was not worried so he either is not going to fly it or he is ok with signing off on my work.
 
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Defender Chassis

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Here are some pics of the completed Duster above. I did not have any shots of the completed tin work because I left the mylar on while they were finishing the rest of the car. Not sure if you can tell or not but I embossed the Mopar "M" into the door panels and the rear deck. The owner thought it was cool.
 

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Defender Chassis

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Not sure how the paying customers would like to see their stuff on here. Thought I would ad some pics of a favor I did for a buddy. I never did like seeing him drive this thing around w/o a roll bar. initially we were going to do a whole cage but he opted for a classic hoop. I did talk him into the struts to add some strength. He agreed since they are out of site. Makes me feel better having his kids riding around in it.
 

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Kevin54

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Either it is cold out or the bank down the road is in for a little trouble. :lol_hitti

Nice work on all aspects :bowdown:
 

NASTYZEN

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Just ran across this thread.It's nice to see other fabricators posting on GJ! Defender, you do real nice work.I don't see it as bragging,but more like sharing and inspiring others to get out of there chairs and doing something different. I always enjoy looking at how someone else put something together or how they worked out a problem. I learn something new every day on here and that's cool.

C'mon!
Your paying customers won't mind if you show us some of there builds.After all ,they paid for those bragging rights.:lol:
 

Man Cave

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southern Indiana
Defender, That was a Piper J4 you were working on replacing the longerons etc. I have done a lot of that myself. The poster way back that told you you were not qualified to do the repair is not correct. You as a fabricator can do the work under the supervision of and A&P mechanic and a licensed mechanic with an IA (inspection authorization can sign off the work as done in accordence with the provisions in AC 43-13. J4's are some of the worst of inside rust as many have spent some time in their life on floats. I hate to fix stuff that some hack tried to fix with a crackle box mig welder.
 
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