Can anyone recommend a good test light? I have bought the cheep chinese ones from the auto parts stores and they don't last long. The alligator clip spring always looses tension and light is not that bright. What is a good test light to buy that has a bright light?
What is a good test light to use?
- Thread starter gnx547
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crewchief888
Well-known member
best test light i've ever had was a snap-on.
Steevo
Well-known member
This is one of the few areas where I find my Snap-On to be the only one I use and recommend. Of course at today's Snap-On prices, and considering the fact that all of their test lights are now made in Korea, I don't think I'd buy another one.
I think I'd try one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/circuit-tester-30779.html
I think I'd try one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/circuit-tester-30779.html
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alan camby
Well-known member
Craftsman makes a decent one. I have the Model 21013 and like it.
As already mentioned, I was taught not to use them in GM's ASEP program. They can pull more current than some circuits can handle.
As already mentioned, I was taught not to use them in GM's ASEP program. They can pull more current than some circuits can handle.
richfinn
Well-known member
Power Probe 3, you wont ever use your test light again 
crewchief888
Well-known member
i mainly use a test light for quick tests on main wiring, batt to starter, to main feeds.
FWIW
i work on constuction eq,
dont mess with automotive too much, and when i do, i'll ussally grab a DVM
binder man
Well-known member
DVOM and Power probe 3 for me also
only way to fly
csargents1546
Well-known member
I use one of these, they are computer safe, draw minimal current, it uses and led, about the same amp draw of a dvom, also high impedance. Only downside to it, I have seen it detect flyback voltage on the ground side. Can ususally tell by how bright the led is.
http://http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=diagnostics&item_ID=651265&group_ID=675534&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
http://http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=diagnostics&item_ID=651265&group_ID=675534&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
Toolhorder
Well-known member
Same here. Test lights are for hacks
It's a basic voltmeter, polarity indicator, test light, circuit tester, flash lite, ...... And it's the first thing I grab when I need to do any electrical testing/diagnosing.sickboy motors inc.
Well-known member
I bought an Equus test light (2 color power and ground) from the snap on dealer. I have bought snapon test lights before but find i like using the Equus more often. Easy and efficient.
Bah!
They are just a tool like anything else. I still use a testlight on occasion, same as I use a generic logic probe, powerprobe 3, my fluke 179, snap-on vantage, vantage pro, or even a sealed beam headlight. The use of it as a tool doesn't make you a hack, but using it without understanding it's benefits as well as limitations does...
As far as what I'd reccomend, my favorite test light is the red 24V snap-on one, because it doesn't blind you when you're working under a dash. The one that comes in a pouch with the connectors you need to test metri-pak terminals is nice (the ability to switch ends around as needed), and it used to be a GM recommended tool IIRC, but the kit isn't cheap at ~$250 last time I checked.
Steevo
Well-known member
For the current high-tech mechanics who have to deal with sensitive circuitry and are painfully aware of the dangers of "test lights" in these situations, please realize that there are still tens of thousands of old tractors, trailers, trucks and other older vehicles whose electrical systems can be quite satisfactorily diagnosed with a 6/12v test light.
Us old geezers won't try to fix those newfangled cars if you will stay away from our old iron. Deal?
Us old geezers won't try to fix those newfangled cars if you will stay away from our old iron. Deal?
Brian_B_
Well-known member
Love it! My 56 is stock (replaced wiring harness of course), but no fancy sensitive anything. I think the whole truck has two fuses...maybe. I have a simple probe light that works well for what I have ever needed on it.
work on cars all day, everyday. I never needed no stinkin power probe to fix anything. They are just desert, the main course is still test lights and DMMs.
I have a old generic test light. Not sure what brand, but the cord is long, coiled, and it gets bright where it is suppose to.
I have a old generic test light. Not sure what brand, but the cord is long, coiled, and it gets bright where it is suppose to.
87FoRunner
Well-known member
I install a lot of aftermarket off road (think KC) lights and use a generic HF test light most of the time to just assure my wiring is correct. (relay and switch)
Am I a hack? I have a Matco MDTECH for fancy use.
Am I a hack? I have a Matco MDTECH for fancy use.
wreckerman5357
Well-known member
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- Dec 2, 2011
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Get yourself a Power Probe. I don't have one but I have used them and I will be buying one in the near future.
Carguy99
Well-known member
Test lights have there place. I use one mostly for a quick check of fuses. Fluke 88 is what I mostly use but even meters have their limitations. I have seen guys get burned. A DVOM can get you in trouble if you just check for voltage. For example, you might have 12 volts when checked with a meter, but not enough current can flow due to corrosion. I have seen wires that are so green and corroded, with only 1 or 2 strands left and you will still have 12 volts. In a situation like that, a test light might better tell the story, but not an led test light. Actually voltage drop testing is the best method in a lot of cases, but thats for another discussion.
Bottom line, all tools have their uses. It's the guy deciding which one is the right one that makes a difference.
Bottom line, all tools have their uses. It's the guy deciding which one is the right one that makes a difference.
Heavy Metal Doctor
Well-known member
Like some other have stated similarly - the test light has it's place and does not make the owner a hack.....I use mine more often than a meter....but then 90% of my electrical work is tracing out faults in 12volt circuits involved in controls of hydraulic systems on equipment - plain old test light is plenty good enough.....and the SO lights that I have had only ever needed to be replaced when I lost one.
4x4gearhead
Well-known member
Get a voltage meter, a test light wont actually tell you how much power you have, just because it lights up doesnt mean everything. I was taught to toss your test light and actually measure voltage.
pmohr
Well-known member
Measuring voltage is perfectly fine, until you deal with corroded wires or poor terminal contacts. Your meter isn't loading the circuit, and you may very well show 12v. Under load, however, you can have a severe voltage drop and have almost no usable power on that circuit.
In that case, a test light is actually superior to a multimeter, due to the load placed on the circuit. A set of loadpro leads for your meter will do the same job.
Test light, DVOM, scope, PP3, they're all different tools for different uses. None of them reigns supreme for all manner of testing, they each have their place. Just like the DVOM/test light example above, you wouldn't be using your multimeter to test audio output from a radio, would you? You can actually listen to the audio with a PP3. Just as well, you wouldn't be using your PP3 to check the resistance on a crank sensor, you'd use your DVOM. You wouldn't use a PP3 to watch a sensor waveform, you'd use the scope for that.
tl;dr: Using a test light makes you just about as much of a hack as does using a DVOM or a labscope. Just like anything else, different electrical diag tools all have different uses and capabilities.
e-tek
Well-known member
Go to the PP# Website - Also Google PP3 reviews. It's all there.
....but - if that's you in your av pic, I'm not sure you should be playing with electicity!
Brownsfan
Well-known member
Thats why I have this. Watch the video and how it helps with this exact situation. I do not have a "regular" test light because I am mostly working on sensitive sircuits and newer vehicles. The toolI linked is also great for checking fuses. http://www.hickok-inc.com/catalog/products/76600_voltpro.html
pmohr
Well-known member
Yes. Again, a test light will show you an indication of any voltage drop within a circuit (assuming you get one with an actual bulb that draws a decent amount of current, not one of the 'computer safe' LEDs). A PP3 will just show you unloaded circuit voltage the same as a multimeter.
richfinn
Well-known member
The key points of the PP3 for me are.
1. Built in volt meter (it will record min/max voltages)
2. The ability to supply power or ground to test a circuit
3. No looking for a good ground just hook it to battery terminals
3. extension cable (great for trailers/caravans/trucks)
4. you can replace the spike with any 4mm accessory
5. Built in twin LED flashlight (cheaper than batteries)
6. Its safe to use on modern vehicles (if you use it correctly)
I get my Power Probe stuff off the local Snap On truck, but you could probably save a few quid if you shop around.
I dont do shopping
richfinn
Well-known member
PP3 shows volt drop same as any other voltmeter does.
a test light has no advantage unless you are so skilled that you can estimate available voltage on the brightness of a bulb.
pmohr
Well-known member
PP3 shows volt drop same as any other voltmeter does.
a test light has no advantage unless you are so skilled that you can estimate available voltage on the brightness of a bulb.
A voltmeter will NOT show a voltage drop under load unless you put a load inline, test while the component is powered up, or use the loadpro test leads. The point here is testing a circuit that does not currently have a load on it.
The test light has the advantage of showing you there's a voltage drop under load. I never said it would tell you what the exact voltage is, but it's an indication that you have a problem. The exact available voltage is irrelevant; once you know you have a voltage drop issue, it needs to be fixed regardless of how much voltage is present.
richfinn
Well-known member
Yeah, I know how to volt drop circuits and use ohms law, thanks
What I disagree with, is you stating it cant be done with a PP3 and that its better to guess how bright the bulb in an old test light is.
That bit is horsesh*t
pmohr
Well-known member
Yeah, I know how to volt drop circuits and use ohms law, thanks
What I disagree with, is you stating it cant be done with a PP3 and that its better to guess how bright the bulb in an old test light is.
That bit is horsesh*t
Do tell, how would you do it with a PP3, without adding a load?
richfinn
Well-known member
Have you been on a load-pro training course or something?
You have always had to load a circuit to volt drop it, its nothing new. You just turn on the circuit or load it with a halogen bulb or use your $100 test leads
.Its not rocket science
In fact what they have taught you is factually incorrect, If you have an open wire/fuse you dont have to load it and volt dropping will still find it
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Milton Shaw
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The PowerProbe is great for working on boats, etc that don't have metal frame that everything is bolted to. You can check ground and hot at ease and follow the problems out. I have both PP2 and test light, for checking fuses only I grab the test light. This is assuming you are talking about car/truck/boat electrical stuff not 120/240 home/building voltages. For them a fluke vom meter with volt alert is the best you can get. They are sensitive enough on volt alert to check and follow wires from wall switch to ceiling light etc. Very good tool.
....but - if that's you in your av pic, I'm not sure you should be playing with electicity!
It's no more a pic of me than your av is a pic of you
pmohr
Well-known member
Have you been on a load-pro training course or something?
You have always had to load a circuit to volt drop it, its nothing new. You just turn on the circuit or load it with a halogen bulb or use your $100 test leads
Its not rocket science
In fact what they have taught you is factually incorrect, If you have an open wire/fuse you dont have to load it and volt dropping will still find it
No, I don't even have a set of them. They just seem to be the easiest and cleanest way to do it, if you're going to use a DVOM. I'd rather use a test light. And FWIW, they're only about half that cost on Amazon.
I don't know who you think 'they' are, but 'they' haven't taught me anything. We're not talking about opens, we're talking about poor connections that don't allow for any decent amount of current flow.
That's exactly it, you have to load the circuit; you were talking as if you could somehow do a voltage drop test on an unloaded circuit. I'm simply saying that the test light is the quicker and easier of the two, if you're trying to voltage drop a circuit. No trying to energize whatever component is on the circuit, or rigging up another load like a bulb (if you're going to do that much, then why not just use a test light? Unless for some reason you're interested in exactly what the available voltage is).
No, it doesn't show you what voltage there is, but almost every corrosion or poor contact issue I've had that's been found through voltage drop testing, it's quite a noticeable difference in light output between good and bad.
Regardless, to each their own. My methods have always worked fine for me, and apparently yours for you.
transittech
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- Feb 27, 2012
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My test light started out as a $3 HF unit, and I put a automotive bulb holder in it and a much better wire and clip. Works great.