What is this space for?

[mrcomic]

Hey,

I have a 40x40 shop I got when I bought my house. The previous owner started doing bat insulation on the walls and skipped all the areas that one would have to cut the bat vertically. I would like to finish the insulation job but, before I do there is a space I can't understand why it is there.

Does anyone know if there is a purpose for this space in the picture?
I am thinking it is not supposed to be there.
If not does anyone have any suggestions on filling it?

Any advise is appreciated!

 

[kd3pc]

normally we insulate all the full width (of the insulation batts) spaces first and then use leftovers or short cuts to do the less than full width spaces. Saves a few bucks and waste on insulation.

See no need to leave it empty.

 

[mike93lx]

The spaces exist to continue 16" on center framing. Just cut the insulation and place it, but don't compress it.

 

[The Cobbler]

do you mean the space at the top of the stud wall? it is the soffit and you need to install insulation baffles to the roof deck so your ceiling insulation doesn't impede the air circulation. you want free air flow from the soffit to the roof peak where you should have vents

 

[Marctrees]

I can only figure they either ran out of insul, and /or the Beer took them over, and never came back.

Or, they left room to reframe for a larger window ?

I would just finish it and move on. Marc

 

[Tonellin]

It's a window...used for letting air and light in

 

[mrcomic]

Thanks for the responses guys.

I had a drawing on the picture that apparently did not transfer in the upload.

The space I am talking about is just below the top plate on the wall.
The space runs parallel to the top plate.

My concern is I think I have to fill it, meaning take down the insulation at the top and put some sort of filler in that space.

 

[The Cobbler]

you need to install insulation baflles and put batt insulation in there to to stop blown in insulation from filling the soffit( assuming you're blowing insulation in ceiling.) you want free air from the soffit to the peak where you want vents as well

 

[mrcomic]

Here is a zoomed in picture.

 

[The Cobbler]

looks like they didn't sheath all the way to the top. that area is likley behind the soffit area, you could leave it or staple on small pcs of ply or osb from inside to fill it

 

[mrcomic]

looks like they didn't sheath all the way to the top. that area is likley behind the soffit area, you could leave it or staple on small pcs of ply or osb from inside to fill it

That is what I was thinking, ***** because this space is behind all the insulation that is already stapled down.

Thanks!

 

[kd3pc]

looks like they didn't sheath all the way to the top. that area is likley behind the soffit area, you could leave it or staple on small pcs of ply or osb from inside to fill it

I would make sure it is within the soffit, when installed - or wire meshed and enclosed somehow. IF not, it will be an easy in for critters/weather/birds/etc.

 

[The Cobbler]

I would make sure it is within the soffit, when installed - or wire meshed and enclosed somehow. IF not, it will be an easy in for critters/weather/birds/etc.

I'm assuming the soffit will be finished on the outside, but valid point

 

[Marctrees]

OK, so now you have clarified, and are not asking about the obvious unfilled wall area, but the sheathing gap.

I am not aware of any purpose to intentionally leave that gap, best I know the framed wall was slightly overheight for the sheathing, but it may be within soffit height, so may be ok to leave.

Those that know better , whether you need to sheath it or not, will answer.

Marc

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Is that gap between the OSB and top plates continuous? If the OSB is supposed to be shear panel, then it's wrong, as it needs to be perimeter nailed to create a diaphragm. As installed, it's just wall covering. If you want it to act as shear panel, I would cut 2x6 blocks and install them tight to the bottom of the layout plate, then add a Simpson A35 from the block to the plate and lastly nail the OSB into the blocks with 8D's @ 6" O/C.

 

[mrcomic]

Is that gap between the OSB and top plates continuous? If the OSB is supposed to be shear panel, then it's wrong, as it needs to be perimeter nailed to create a diaphragm. As installed, it's just wall covering. If you want it to act as shear panel, I would cut 2x6 blocks and install them tight to the bottom of the layout plate, then add a Simpson A35 from the block to the plate and lastly nail the OSB into the blocks with 8D's @ 6" O/C.

Yes the gap is continuous.

I don't know if it is supposed to be a shear panel.

I would have to nail the blocks to the OSB from the inside.

 

[bmxdad]

No bird blocking on the outside?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Is that gap between the OSB and top plates continuous? If the OSB is supposed to be shear panel, then it's wrong, as it needs to be perimeter nailed to create a diaphragm. As installed, it's just wall covering. If you want it to act as shear panel, I would cut 2x6 blocks and install them tight to the bottom of the layout plate, then add a Simpson A35 from the block to the plate and lastly nail the OSB into the blocks with 8D's @ 6" O/C.

I'm not a framer. Why would adding the 6" bit of OSB to the top change anything? Or perhaps I should ask what is a shear panel? Is that meant to prevent racking? If so then all the other OSB panels, especially the ones in the corner would do the job.

 

[tjdux]

Its a poorly sheeted wall. What tool fool os saying for added strength you could finish filling it in but i assume there is already finished exterior wall and all that insulation in the way.

Being you just bought the house the seller may be liable to fix that but in the other hand it may not need fixed at all.

If therebis vented soffit on the underside of the roof eves or just and open eve the spaces are mainly for air to vent to the roof to keep the attic cooler and dry. It doesn't need the sheathing gap though.

Chances are its not needed to fill in that gap. I would just finish the insulation and put up wall covering and a ceiling or whatever your plan is.

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[tjdux]

Is that gap between the OSB and top plates continuous? If the OSB is supposed to be shear panel, then it's wrong, as it needs to be perimeter nailed to create a diaphragm. As installed, it's just wall covering. If you want it to act as shear panel, I would cut 2x6 blocks and install them tight to the bottom of the layout plate, then add a Simpson A35 from the block to the plate and lastly nail the OSB into the blocks with 8D's @ 6" O/C.

How would the OP go about finding out if he needs that last few inches for structure requirements? He bought the building that way so i doubt he has any drawings or plans.

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[mrcomic]

The exterior is finished and there is vented soffit, so this gap leads to a covered, vented space.

My main concern is air flow into the insulated cavities. Does this even matter?
I assume a big gap like this make the insulation a lot less effective.

 

[PAToyota]

The purpose of the space is that the builder cheaped out or didn’t know what he was doing - or both. Yes, that space should be sheathed. Yes, it will affect the insulation of the wall - you’ll have a cold band along the top, which could also lead to moisture issues. Chances are it would have failed the framing inspection if shear walls were needed.

 

[lakeroadster]

Are you planning to finish the insulation and install a ceiling?

If yes, even though the soffit is behind the gap, I would still want the area sealed off in some fashion to keep wind driven moisture out, and insects, etc from getting into the wall space...

Maybe cut 2x4's to length, and pneumatically nail them to the underside of the top plate, stacked if need be to fill the space... followed by a bead of spray foam around the edges.

Speaking of wind and moisture, where are you located?

The purpose of the space is that the builder cheaped out or didn’t know what he was doing - or both. Yes, that space should be sheathed. Yes, it will affect the insulation of the wall - you’ll have a cold band along the top, which could also lead to moisture issues. Chances are it would have failed the framing inspection if shear walls were needed.

That's assuming there was a permit.. and any inspections at all.

 

[mrcomic]

Located in Wyoming.

Thanks for all the advise and info guys!

 

[Falcon67]

The reason the PO stopped is because he/them was lazy. I have all kinds of oddball spaces in my 24x40, cut up a LOT of batts. Goes with the job.

 

[tjdux]

You may be able to make an L shape from 1/2 ply and a 2x2 that would be easily nailed or screwed to the top plate to seal it up but to do it right you will have to pull down all of the top few inches of insulation the whole way round and this solution doesn't fix the sheer wall strength from full sheathing.

Wyoming weather isn't much different that where i am in Nebraska on average. We dont get hurricane winds as a for sure thing and when we do get sheer wind loads they tend to either do no damage or it doesn't matter cuz the tonado ripped your shed into the next county.

How old is the building? If its weathered many years of storms already I wouldn't worry to much.

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[forAK]

I would want it blocked off. Cut 2x6 blocking and toe nail it in perpendicular to the top plates. It'll also assist in some shear strength.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Yes the gap is continuous.

I don't know if it is supposed to be a shear panel.

I would have to nail the blocks to the OSB from the inside.

Nailing thru the block into the OSB would be better than nothing, but it's not truly effective for an effective diaphragm.

I'm not a framer. Why would adding the 6" bit of OSB to the top change anything? Or perhaps I should ask what is a shear panel? Is that meant to prevent racking? If so then all the other OSB panels, especially the ones in the corner would do the job.

Yes, shear panel is to prevent wall racking by creating a diaphragm, but the only way to create an effective diaphragm is to have complete perimeter nailing, and the diaphragm need to be continuous from bottom plate to top plate.

 

[jbwilkins]

The purpose of the space is that the builder cheaped out or didn’t know what he was doing - or both. Yes, that space should be sheathed. Yes, it will affect the insulation of the wall - you’ll have a cold band along the top, which could also lead to moisture issues. Chances are it would have failed the framing inspection if shear walls were needed.

It will also create a 'chimney effect' and reduce the true r-value of the insulation greatly.....the insulation should be sealed in all 6 sides to achieve its ratings....

 

[rayra]

looks like they didn't sheath all the way to the top. that area is likley behind the soffit area, you could leave it or staple on small pcs of ply or osb from inside to fill it

Yep, looks like they intended to box in the soffets and only carried the OSB siding up to where the soffet enclosure would reach / cover. Penny wise and pound foolish, to me. I wonder what else they cut that fine. how's your rafter / truss spacing, roof deck thickness, screw count on the metal roof / siding?

 

[mrcomic]

Well I decided to cut 2x4s and spray foam it like suggested.

Thanks for the advice guys!

 

[ddawg16]

Is that gap between the OSB and top plates continuous? If the OSB is supposed to be shear panel, then it's wrong, as it needs to be perimeter nailed to create a diaphragm. As installed, it's just wall covering. If you want it to act as shear panel, I would cut 2x6 blocks and install them tight to the bottom of the layout plate, then add a Simpson A35 from the block to the plate and lastly nail the OSB into the blocks with 8D's @ 6" O/C.

Yup...

My guess is he framed the walls a little taller than the sheets of OSB he used....I bet it was an 'oh ****' afterwards.

A common mistake people make is....use 8' studs....double bottom plate...double top plate....and over look the fact that they need an extra 6"