What R-Value For Shop Attic?

[Olympus]

Now that I have my ceiling up, I think I need to start getting an idea of what and how to insulate it with. I've read a lot of people on here say you can have it blown in for almost as much as you can do it yourself. So far, the only quote I've gotten is $850 blown in to a R19 factor. That just seems kind of expensive to me and the guy said R19 was the minimum he would recommend.

I would think I could roll in batt insulation for a lot cheaper than that. I can go up to R30 batt and do it myself for $675. My trusses are only 4" tall if that matters. I just have no idea what I should be looking at getting here.

 

[BlackTalon]

For reference, the residential portion of the 2012 International Energy Conservation Code requires R-49 for ceiling insulation for the zones in Missouri. They allow a reduction to R-38 if the insulation stays uncompressed over the top wall plate at the eaves. The IECC is part of the IBC, and is typically the model code referenced by most states.

 

[Olympus]

I'm talking about a detached shop that will be kept at a temp of about 45 when not in use and around 65 to 70 for various times when I need to work out there. I don't want to spend money unnecessarily for insulation and I wouldn't think it would be necessary to insulate to the same level as I would a residential structure that is being lived in.

 

[Falcon67]

Our min here is R-30 and I'm using roll/batt R-19 because I'm cheap and thats what was left in the budget. Works just fine. R-30 batts would pretty good IMHO.

 

[Olympus]

I found a cheaper R30 batt at Lowe's and it would be $540 if I did it myself. I guess going with 30 over 19 would see a cost savings in heating over the course of a few years.

 

[Casey69]

menards will rent an insulation blower; i'm guessing HD & lowe's would too. you priced out blowing in the insulation yourself?

 

[stroked89coupe]

Lowes and HD let you get the machine for free with a certain amount of blown in bails purchased.

 

[newhollandpuller]

I had 20" of blown in insulation put in mine and its r-60 and its well worth it. You'll save it back on heating bill..

 

[theoldwizard1]

R30 would be minimum IMHO.

You can rent a blower at HD or Lowes. Blown in cellulose is usually cheaper than fiberglass.

 

[BlackTalon]

The Code is all about energy conservation, not your comfort. I posted that just as an FYI. If you needed a permit for work you were doing you would typically be held to this.

 

[JCByrd24]

True r-30 is where you see diminishing returns on your money, see link below, and this is what I would shoot for personally. But the key is achieving true r-values vice what the label says on the packaging. If you have vented attic space above your insulation you will lose a bunch to air movement through the batts due to convection. Thus energy codes usually require more in attics.

http://360homeinspect.com/index.php/r-value

 

[James-W]

For a detached garage only heated to 45 degrees except for the occasional work project, I would say R-30 would be acceptable. I wouldn't go any less than that though.

 

[Ray-CA]

My wife and I installed R-30 in the ceilings and R-19 in the walls of our 28x30 garage. Ceiling height is 11-feet and it took us about 5-6 hours. Had to get in done because the sheetrockers were coming the next day.

The batt stuff is pretty easy to install.

Ray

 

[Hop2it]

You buy insulation once heat very winter.I have r40 in the ceiling and r 25 in the sidewalls.I found a lot of reclaimed polyiso. Foam sheets on Craig's list and kept the cost fairly reasonable.
Doug

 

[JonnyC]

Well I just bought R-13 batts from Menards for my drywalled attached garage ceiling with 2x4 24" OC trusses. I was going to go with blown in, but my 5/8" drywall is somewhat sagging between the trusses (although not very noticeable) and has a really shoddy tape and mud job. If I ever end up having to replace the drywall I thought it will be easier to remove and possibly reuse the batts versus blown in. I also think blown in is a pain in the *** when you need to go up there to change up wiring or anything else. My thought is something is better than nothing. Plus I can always add another perpendicular layer of unfaced batts if needed.