What scan tool to bleed abs module
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crewchief888
Well-known member
the only one i know of is a tech2 scanner. most likely out of your price range.
i'm guessing you replaced brake lines and cant get a firm pedal?
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
If it's a chevy product, and you're trying to "automated bleed" it, don't waste your time.
Unhook the battery for an 30min-1 hour, then bleed like any other car. I can't get the standard autobleed, wait between pumps method to do as good of a job as simply unhooking the battery.
It's the first thing I do now, when doing brake lines on chevy trucks.
Unhook the battery for an 30min-1 hour, then bleed like any other car. I can't get the standard autobleed, wait between pumps method to do as good of a job as simply unhooking the battery.
It's the first thing I do now, when doing brake lines on chevy trucks.
bsaint
Well-known member
If its a BMW it has a self bleed routine too. You'll have to scour the internet.
crewchief888
Well-known member
ive done the tech2 blled on my sierra more than once after replacing rusted brake lines. never worked to my satisfaction..
last time i ran the truck through some mud, got the ABS to kick in several times, and had a better pedal than ever.
just my $0.02
JJThrasher
Well-known member
I don't think there is one near $200 new that'll do it. You're needing a decently capable bi directional scan tool. At your price point you're most likely still looking at deluxe code readers.
I've used the go drive it and get the ABS to kick a few times method myself. Works pretty good.
I've used the go drive it and get the ABS to kick a few times method myself. Works pretty good.
ive done the tech2 blled on my sierra more than once after replacing rusted brake lines. never worked to my satisfaction..
last time i ran the truck through some mud, got the ABS to kick in several times, and had a better pedal than ever.
just my $0.02
Did you bleed it after you got the abs to kick in?
Yes you do. It releases the air in the module and into the lines.
My Otc and the shops Solus will both bleed abs so if you can find somebody with one of those they can do it for you, probably the better autel will also I imagine.
Generally if you don't break any lines Before the pump you can just bleed it normally.
Only time you should have to mess with bleeding the abs is if you replace the unit itself, or the lines before it, or the abs motor.
As mentioned earlier there are ways to do this without a scanner also - for some vehicles for sure, and possibly all of them - just a matter of hunting the method down - if you need to at all.
Generally if you don't break any lines Before the pump you can just bleed it normally.
Only time you should have to mess with bleeding the abs is if you replace the unit itself, or the lines before it, or the abs motor.
As mentioned earlier there are ways to do this without a scanner also - for some vehicles for sure, and possibly all of them - just a matter of hunting the method down - if you need to at all.
what model otc, and autel would do that? going to be replacing all the brake lines, love living in the rust belt.
Genisys Evo with 4.0, a friend has an older Genisys with 3.0 and I'm pretty sure it does it also. Either one is fairly expensive though. Once in awhile I will see one on CL for $700 ish with the older software, too much to spend to bleed brakes for sure.
No clue on the Autel, probably any of them that is bi directional, I would imagine the sales literature on the website would tell you fairly quickly, or somewhere on their site. Its a commonly available feature. The need to bleed abs on occasion has been around for a long time now.
Pretty much any actual mechanic will have a scan tool capable of doing a 2000 gm. Try locating one and bribing him with beer.
Edit: might want to avoid mentioning rusty lines during the bribing procedure.
No clue on the Autel, probably any of them that is bi directional, I would imagine the sales literature on the website would tell you fairly quickly, or somewhere on their site. Its a commonly available feature. The need to bleed abs on occasion has been around for a long time now.
Pretty much any actual mechanic will have a scan tool capable of doing a 2000 gm. Try locating one and bribing him with beer.
Edit: might want to avoid mentioning rusty lines during the bribing procedure.
Smokenarrow
Well-known member
I have a Solus Pro but I don't even bother hooking it up for the auto-bleed anymore. I start the vehicle and pedal pressure bleed it while its running. Start at the furthest away -pass rear, move to the driver rear, then do the pass front and last do the driver front. Might have to go at these 2x but that is how i do them now and always am able to get good pedal. Good luck
pelletman
Well-known member
Maybe www.autoenginuity.com ?
Karl_B
Well-known member
This has been my experience as well, however it's imperative to not let the reservoir level get low enough to pull air.
I say this in just about every post Regarding someone who whats to get a scan too that does more than "scan"
A used OTC Genisys like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTC-SPX-Genisys-Diagnostic-Scan-Tool-OBDII/142259488380?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D34755d0a0f6c441fa8ab93d0052f8b65%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D302206865403
Will set you back about the $200 you want to spend, is updateable up to 2015, and has all the bi-directional controls of any pro level scanner. I can tell you for a fact that it does abs bleeds.
The one I listed is just an example of what you can get one for.
I would try and get one with the "smart cable" that way you don't have to worry about a bunch of chips for the different makes and models. and try and get something with at least system 3.0 or even better 4.0.
The 4.0 units can be upgraded for free to 5.0 and that takes you to most modern release.
Just avoid the original black button units as they had a slower processor and cant be upgraded past 3.0 (2007)
I've had mine for about 6 months, Upgraded it from 4.0 to 5.0 and upgraded the coverage to 2012, and love it. I'm a full timer master tech that's been wrenching for over 20 years, and I've always used the shop's scanner. I finally decided to invest in a mid grade unit for myself so I would have a scanner whenever I needed it, and I couldn't be happier.
I bought the tool for $99 with free shipping, the upgrade to 2012 software for $59, and a new battery for another $16. That's less than $200 for a really nice mid grade bi-directional scanner!
Hope this helps.
A used OTC Genisys like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/OTC-SPX-Genisys-Diagnostic-Scan-Tool-OBDII/142259488380?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D34755d0a0f6c441fa8ab93d0052f8b65%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D302206865403
Will set you back about the $200 you want to spend, is updateable up to 2015, and has all the bi-directional controls of any pro level scanner. I can tell you for a fact that it does abs bleeds.
The one I listed is just an example of what you can get one for.
I would try and get one with the "smart cable" that way you don't have to worry about a bunch of chips for the different makes and models. and try and get something with at least system 3.0 or even better 4.0.
The 4.0 units can be upgraded for free to 5.0 and that takes you to most modern release.
Just avoid the original black button units as they had a slower processor and cant be upgraded past 3.0 (2007)
I've had mine for about 6 months, Upgraded it from 4.0 to 5.0 and upgraded the coverage to 2012, and love it. I'm a full timer master tech that's been wrenching for over 20 years, and I've always used the shop's scanner. I finally decided to invest in a mid grade unit for myself so I would have a scanner whenever I needed it, and I couldn't be happier.
I bought the tool for $99 with free shipping, the upgrade to 2012 software for $59, and a new battery for another $16. That's less than $200 for a really nice mid grade bi-directional scanner!
Hope this helps.
R. Johnson
Well-known member
I did the lines for my 2002 silverado myself. I hadn't heard of the disconnecting the battery trick (what does that do?). Or the making the abs engage trick, so I just got the pedal feel as good as I could bleeding normally and took it to a shop. They charged me around $100 to bleed the whole system which seemed fair. Considering the complete line kit for that truck was $75, $175 plus a few hours work was much better than the $750+ the project would've cost at the shop.
Edit: one problem I ran into was the abs system has to be functioning correctly for them to run the abs pump manually. I had a broken wire at one of my sensors so the mechanic let me splice it and run the bleeding procedure again.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Edit: one problem I ran into was the abs system has to be functioning correctly for them to run the abs pump manually. I had a broken wire at one of my sensors so the mechanic let me splice it and run the bleeding procedure again.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
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454ragtop
Well-known member
Weird, I've done a bunch of these Chevy/GMC truck complete brake line replacements, including the lines from the master cyl. to the ABS module, and I just bleed manually, same as I do for any other brake line replacement. Even stranger, I have no problem doing them by myself, no help. Almost seems like the old Henry Ford saying "whether you think you can, or you think you can't, either way you're probably right."
ive done the tech2 blled on my sierra more than once after replacing rusted brake lines. never worked to my satisfaction..
last time i ran the truck through some mud, got the ABS to kick in several times, and had a better pedal than ever.
just my $0.02
Have heard this works too from e46fanatics
jerseykat1
Well-known member
Autel maxisys does it. But it's not 200 bucks.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
It kills the ECU(s). Thus, the system defaults to 100% "normal" brakes. I'm not sure why, but GM made the system way too hard to bleed with the ABS powered on. Additionally, if you do not wait 30 seconds between cracking the bleeders (bleeding without auto-bleed), the system can shut down flow, and stop you dead in your tracks. The fluid may look solid, but the ABS block will still be full of air.
Disconnect the battery, let the modules die, things work as they should. Manual bleed like any other (non-gm) car.
To reiterate: Guys, DON'T BUY A SCANNER JUST TO BLEED YOUR BRAKES!
I get we like buying tools, but why buy a scanner with auto-bleed when you can get a better pedal, faster, simply unhooking the battery? Spend half that money on a little mity-vac bleeder, if you're dying to invest in something while doing the job.
I laugh at the idea of auto-bleed anymore. It's an inferior technique.
R. Johnson
Well-known member
Wow. How is this not more common info? I don't just jump into a project without research and I never saw mention of this most basic technique.
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
bczygan
Well-known member
This?
http://www.harborfreight.com/can-obd-ii-scan-tool-with-abs-60794.html
Ah, I see it just reads codes.
http://www.harborfreight.com/can-obd-ii-scan-tool-with-abs-60794.html
Ah, I see it just reads codes.
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visionguru
Well-known member
I recently purchased Foxwell NT630 Pro to diagnosis my ABS light. After I reset the light, the ABS light never came back again. So, I never actually used it yet.
While playing with it, I noticed that it has ABS bleed function, as well as some advanced two-way ABS, SRS control function.
DeadmanRoss316
New member
I bought mine on Ebay, you do some searching you can get a great deal.
eBay item number:184575537577
richfinn
Well-known member
You could look at "Thinkdiagpro" for a bi-directional scan tool (basically a Launch that will run on your phone)
The battery trick sounds like a winner
The battery trick sounds like a winner
I've got a launch millennium 90pro that I got off the tool truck for $300ish, it does abs bleed. That said, all it seems to ever do is just run the pump for about 5 seconds and has never fixed an issue I'm having.
On old tailblazers I sometimes have to key the car on and pump the brake a few times before it will allow the fluid to flow. Once had an issue with a late 90s - early '00 Ram, had a mechanical switch that trips with pressure loss. The switch didn't want to move back to the normal position. Have also had issues with the old hybrid escape/mariner, I won't even touch the brakes on those now, the design engineer should be shot
On old tailblazers I sometimes have to key the car on and pump the brake a few times before it will allow the fluid to flow. Once had an issue with a late 90s - early '00 Ram, had a mechanical switch that trips with pressure loss. The switch didn't want to move back to the normal position. Have also had issues with the old hybrid escape/mariner, I won't even touch the brakes on those now, the design engineer should be shot
bob15
Well-known member
I know this is an old thread, but has become relevant for me.....
Curious as to what year Chevy trucks will disconnecting the battery work? Next weekend I am going to be replacing all the brake lines on a 2006 Silverado disc-front/drum-back and am curious is disconnecting the battery will work over buying a scan tool?
Ign
Well-known member
Funny this thread got revived as I referenced it a couple weeks ago.
I backed out of a booster replacement on an '07 CX-9 after finding I would need to disconnect at least a couple hard lines right at the HCU (conveniently placed directly in front of booster). Apparently the Edge got some braided flex line here but Mazda opted for hard line.
Anyway I knew I stood a decent chance of conventional bleeding being just fine but a decent chance wasn't good enough for me to also face the risk of having to .....well, do something and explain a delay to the customer.
I'm still undecided about what to do for a scanner that might aid in ABS bleeding, so I kinda just tabled the issue for now.
2GR, are you saying you never use a scanner, or just never on GM trucks? @2ndGearRubber
I backed out of a booster replacement on an '07 CX-9 after finding I would need to disconnect at least a couple hard lines right at the HCU (conveniently placed directly in front of booster). Apparently the Edge got some braided flex line here but Mazda opted for hard line.
Anyway I knew I stood a decent chance of conventional bleeding being just fine but a decent chance wasn't good enough for me to also face the risk of having to .....well, do something and explain a delay to the customer.
I'm still undecided about what to do for a scanner that might aid in ABS bleeding, so I kinda just tabled the issue for now.
2GR, are you saying you never use a scanner, or just never on GM trucks? @2ndGearRubber
Ign
Well-known member
I recently purchased Foxwell NT630 Pro to diagnosis my ABS light. After I reset the light, the ABS light never came back again. So, I never actually used it yet.
While playing with it, I noticed that it has ABS bleed function, as well as some advanced two-way ABS, SRS control function.
These appear to hover around $100 on ebay. Color me skeptical. Are they updateable? Do the updates actually work? Is there coverage for "slightly less common" brands like Mazda?
I understand you may not know -- you don't need to defend your suggestion, just trying to stimulate discussion in the thread.
At one point the Autel MaxiCheck Pro was the go-to low end scan tool for auto bleed capabilities. Sure the Foxwlell seems great for the price but I've heard many people complain that all it did was cause them a headach before they eventually returned it. In the last few years better options have hit the market. For roughly 40 bucks more you can get bidirectional control and all live data on all vehicle modules, plus FREE LIFETIME updates. The Xtool A30 Pro is really hard to beat right now.
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visionguru
Well-known member
A month after my ABS light magically disappeared (on my Honda), I asked the seller if I can exchange it with a Autel VAG505 for my Audi. He agreed. So, I only owned it for about 2 months, never actually used it, except for resetting the ABS light.
The following is what I do know:
NT630 is only for 1 make (have to pay extra if need others), which you need to pick when registering with Foxtell. Mazda is in the selection list.
Yes, the update worked. I vaguely remember that I have to download an app on the computer, then download the updates, then transfer to NT630 using memory card. The update is only good for 1 year (have to pay extra after that).
twouvakind
Well-known member
$100+ or more than your price range but it gives you what you are looking for.
Innova CarScan Pro 5610
Innova CarScan Pro 5610
Ign
Well-known member
Very interesting, thank you. I guess since you're not actually writing anything there's little risk of bricking a module if the BT fails?
Also -- and maybe it was covered in the video comments which I didn't read -- does the vehicle side of the BT need batteries, or is it able to use the OBD2 power as well I hope? Does the handheld have replaceable batteries? I'm always leary of built-in rechargeable batteries......
I do really like the concept of touch screen OR physical buttons.
Ign
Well-known member
I've always felt for appearance sake if nothing else it might be nice to have something a bit more professional for customers' cars.....
plus I'm a little distrusting this is guaranteed to work in every scenario, and afterward don't you still then have to bleed the air that was pushed from the HCU out the bleeders? So then it's, what? ....1) bleed what you can 2) remove from lift, go act like 16 y.o. wannabe rally driver 3) pull back in shop and put on lift 4) bleed again?
Or am I wrong? Not being a smartass, just asking. But it would be nice to do 100% in shop first and only time, then test drive and done.
The vehicle side of the BT does use vehicle power from the OBDII port. There's not even a place to put batteries if you wanted to. The scan tool device itself has built in batteries. I'm sure if you took the device apart you could probably replace the battery but it's not designed to have the user service the battery.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
I dont use auto bleed for anything. I dont cycle the pump, nothing. No panic stops or gravel parking lots.
The super easy method is with a mityvac brake sucker. Fill up the master to the top, open a bleeder, attach the sucker, and pump the brakes. Do each wheel, you're done. I've been doing it with no abs unplugging lately, just the vacuum method. These GM trucks can actually have a good pedal. I run 2/3 of a master cylinder to each wheel, aside from 1 rear wheel IF the truck has a single hose supplying both rear wheels. Customer gets a hell of a flush in the process. This is usually after replacing every single line, plus a caliper or two and hoses as required.
Really I dont do that many any more, they're all rotted out and gone now.
The super easy method is with a mityvac brake sucker. Fill up the master to the top, open a bleeder, attach the sucker, and pump the brakes. Do each wheel, you're done. I've been doing it with no abs unplugging lately, just the vacuum method. These GM trucks can actually have a good pedal. I run 2/3 of a master cylinder to each wheel, aside from 1 rear wheel IF the truck has a single hose supplying both rear wheels. Customer gets a hell of a flush in the process. This is usually after replacing every single line, plus a caliper or two and hoses as required.
Really I dont do that many any more, they're all rotted out and gone now.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
FWIW if you get a decent bidirectional scanner, it will come with auto bleed functions. I just dont bother.