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What size wire do I need?

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Corbin5754

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You would use a 60amp double pole breaker in the house if that's what you want in the shop. You could then install a 100 amp (or 200 amp, or anything 60amp or greater) panel in the shop with no problem. The 100 amp breaker in the shop panel would just serve as a disconnect, as you would be limited to the 60amp supplied from the house.

Thank you. So my plan is to run the 2-2-2-4 mhf wire in conduit underground and drill a hole into crawl space and run wire to main box which will be about 8 feet from the drilled hole . Now after the wire gets under house do I still have to run conduit all the way to box? If so I'd like to run a wire that doesn't require conduit all the way to the box.
 
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cj7jeep81

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Thank you. So my plan is to run the 2-2-2-4 mhf wire in conduit underground and drill a hole into crawl space and run wire to main box which will be about 8 feet from the drilled hole . Now after the wire gets under house do I still have to run conduit all the way to box? If so I'd like to run a wire that doesn't require conduit all the way to the box.

Yep, needs to be in conduit inside.
 

ishiboo

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I don't know why but I just don't feel comfortable putting in a 90 amp breaker in the main panel. If I use 2-2-2-4 wire in conduit and want 60 amp service in my detached building what double pole breaker do I get for the main panel?
Sorry for all the questions but I just want to get everything ran before I get a electrician to wire it up.

Not sure why, but whatever. Any breaker <= 90A will be fine, just make sure it will accept #2

Thank you. So my plan is to run the 2-2-2-4 mhf wire in conduit underground and drill a hole into crawl space and run wire to main box which will be about 8 feet from the drilled hole . Now after the wire gets under house do I still have to run conduit all the way to box? If so I'd like to run a wire that doesn't require conduit all the way to the box.

Ok so what wire will allow me not to use conduit once I get it under house

Junction box with Polaris connectors and then run 2-2-2-4 SER.
 

mmb617

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Ok so whatever size breaker I install in the house panel is what will be the available power in the out building? I only have room for a single pole breaker in my house panel. If I put a 30 amp single pole in the house panel will that be like having 60 since the house is a 200 amp service. And if I go with a 30 amp breaker will the wire from the 2-2-2-4 mhf fit into a 30 breaker?

I hope you don't think I'm being a smart *** because that is not my intention, but after reading this I really think you should hire an electrician as this job is beyond your capabilities.

You don't have even the most basic understanding of power distribution and you're going to wind up hurting yourself or somebody else.
 

pattenp

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For splicing, Polaris connectors will cost you an arm and a leg. I suggest splice/reducers or split bolts and tape them up well. Be sure to use connectors approved for aluminum wire. And use Noalox antioxidant paste on aluminum wire where terminated.
 

Norcal

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The OP's panel looks like either a Murray or Crouse-Hinds, same panel just different ownership, now owned by Siemens and a 90A 2-pole circuit breaker would be a MP290.

The color handles on the twin breakers are a old style Murray, long discontinued, Bryant, BR, now Eaton, BR used to use the colored handles also.
 

why worry

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In rural areas conduit is the way to go as gophers and moles have been known to chew into the the wire and then you are replacing the run. Had it happen is how I know.
 

padroo

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My garage is about the same distance an I got hit by lightning and it took one leg of my 220 out. I would use conduit. I would actually run another conduit in the same trench for phone, internet or security cameras while I was at it.
 
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Corbin5754

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I hope you don't think I'm being a smart *** because that is not my intention, but after reading this I really think you should hire an electrician as this job is beyond your capabilities.

You don't have even the most basic understanding of power distribution and you're going to wind up hurting yourself or somebody else.

ONLY thing I'm doing is buying the wire and conduit and digging a trench and installing the wire through the conduit to cut down on cost so all the electrician has to do is install the wire. Plus I'm learning from you guys and I approve all the help.
 

Cr0ck1

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Heres how i did mine. Same situation..

I ran (3) #2 aluminum wires (2 hotts & 1 neutral) and (1) #4 ground wire.

I ran a 100 amp subpanel into my steel bldg.

I put a 100 amp breaker and n my main panel.

Ran the 4 wires through 1 1/2" conduit burried. Up into the sub panel. Dug trench 18" deep btw.

Removed the green screw from the sub panel so the neutral and ground were seperate.

Ran (2) 8' grounding rods 6' apart attached with "4 copper wire from the sub panel to the rods in the ground.10e7b160c3190e3f1f1ecba90d1461a4.jpg1ed5a0fa199c434282e2fcfe2597a2ce.jpg07b79dcae696ee5048ce135e341ab41a.jpg976462fb1b4788e706db8f7dba1bf892.jpgd569131afe3e3ef01046870cc7b4b88d.jpg8861f8b321a9d7bb5042dfe834d05205.jpg944c818400acd842490577f7232cbb1a.jpg96b66b14c0d6f4d0e2ce7f9d61ef1f4b.jpg


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Cr0ck1

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Ok so what wire will allow me not to use conduit once I get it under house



You need to have that 240 hot wire in conduit from the second it exits your main panel to the second it enters your sub panel..

Put it in conduit!!! Your already digging a trench! Your going to have to conduit it from the box to the first 12' of underground anyway. Whats an extra 20 bucks for security??

You need to bury it way deeper for direct bury.. in FL main wires are in conduit .. if not they are DEEP AS HELL!!!

Direct bury shallow,.. line gets nicked, it pours rain, you walk in the puddle.. you die..

So 20 bucks in conduit seems worth it.




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Corbin5754

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Yes I'm going with conduit. I'm using 2-2-2-4 ser from main breaker then down through crawl space to a junction box where it will meet 2-2-2-4 mhf in 1.50" conduit
 
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Corbin5754

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can anybody tell me what type of 90 amp dp breaker I need for my main panel I noticed on one of my 30 amp dp breakers it says style mp fj-17. Or what do I look for on the breaker to know what kind my panel accepts
 

bjcouche

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To answer you as to which make, model and amperage breaker you need, we first need to know the make and model of your breaker panel. It is usually on a label either on the inside of your box or on the cover.
Picture a customer walking into a tire store and asking the salesman for a quote on new tires for their truck. Salesman's first question is, "What make and model truck?" Customer says, I don't know, it's blue..
Brian
 
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Corbin5754

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Lol. Ok when I get home I'll check to see the label. All I know is it looks to be the original box from the 60s. My bad I thought from the numbers I posted that were on one of the other breakers style mp fj-17 that might help. Thanks guys
 
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Corbin5754

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And I haven't contacted my electrician yet cause I'm still working on routing the wire so far I've ran the ser cable from box to crawl space and have drilled a hole through brick to feed wire through. And mounting the conduit box to the brick. Next all I gotta do is dig a trench and lay my conduit
 

engineer2

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Our 900 home subdivision is all underground service and about once a year someone puts a shovel into a power line (usually fence contractors). Some blocks lose power with heavy rains, so direct burial is great, but not perfect.

I'm looking to do a similar thing to my shed. Good info here. We require metallic conduit.
Another bonus of using conduit is your trench doesn't need to be as deep.
Very important to torque the connections to the value stated on the breakers.

Questions for you electricians: If I my sub panel required 60 ft of #6 copper, what size aluminum feeder cable is equivalent and what the smallest conduit it will fit in?
 

bjcouche

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Norcal,
How do you know it's a Murray panel?
If it IS a Murray, then you are correct, MP290 is the correct breaker.
When I look at it I can't tell if it's a Murry panel with both siemens and Murray breakers installed or a Siemens panel with Murray and Siemens breakers installed.
That's why I was asking for more info on the panel itself...

Hmm.... Now that I think of it, if there isn't any labels on the panel, there's likely manufacturer info on the main breaker and that should match the panel manufacturer and provide a positive ID.

Brian
 

padroo

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Someone already said what was thinking, have your electrician make a list of what you need to get. He might be able to get the materials cheaper than you can.
 
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