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What to plan/install prior to slab pour

Dreamshop

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Feb 7, 2022
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71
So the shop will be under construction within the next 3 weeks. Looking at the entire project has given me hives so I'm trying to break it down into bite size pieces. My first piece is the pre-pour. Here's what I have so far:
- pad for shed (being moved in behind the garage)
- underground conduit from shop pad to shed pad for power
- Conduit in shop for gas, water, hydro, Ethernet
- floor drain
- insulation/pex/side pad insulation for heated floors
- perhaps a pad for the exterior man doors? (Outside)
- drain heat tracing wiring?
- grounding rods by panel location

Is there anything else I should consider or have missed?

Thanks!
 
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Dreamshop

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Drain for the condensate from a high-efficiency boiler.
Thick spots for potential lift.
I forgot the drain from the boiler! I did however plan 2 4' x 4' pads that will be an additional 12-18" deep for the 2 post lift
 

ConCretin

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Jan 20, 2011
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3,379
Location
Central Maine
Take a look at my Guide to Floor Slabs in the link below for some thoughts on the slab itself. Just like the stuff under the slab, you only get one chance to get the slab right. Good luck with your project.
 

nolimits76

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Jul 11, 2013
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Location
Oklahoma
Are you going to apply any sort of an epoxy coating on the floor? If so, coordinating with the proper cure/sealer will make your life easier.

Along that lines, what sort of a textured finish do you want for the floor? Slick, broom, etc.

Expansion joint placement and type?

Lastly I’d clarify if there are any curbs or stem walls. My current house drives me a bit mad. There is a soft rolled curb of sorts vs hard angles. It makes it difficult to roll anything flush to the wall.
 

larry_g

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Location
oregon
If your heavy into auto repair consider putting a couple of 'pull pots' or anchor points in the pad.

lg
no neat sig line
 

dcg9381

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Jun 20, 2018
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Location
Austin, TX
I add 1" conduit going from one side of the building to the other. That makes it possible to get a 60A wire from one side of the building to the other without going around.

I also typically add 3" sweeps to each corner and the middle of the foundation. "Future Use" conduit.
 
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Dreamshop

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"I also typically add 3" sweeps to each corner and the middle of the foundation. "Future Use" conduit." Can you explain what you mean here?
 
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Dreamshop

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If your heavy into auto repair consider putting a couple of 'pull pots' or anchor points in the pad.

lg
no neat sig line
I am a truck and car mechanic by trade. But unless I'm doing body/frame repair is it necessary?
 

larry_g

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oregon
I am a truck and car mechanic by trade. But unless I'm doing body/frame repair is it necessary?
Only you know the way you work and if it is worth the investment. An anchor point can be used to drag in dead cars or other pulling projects. More than a few times over the years I've wished I had one.

lg
no neat sig line
 

Poolshark314

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Jul 5, 2021
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Location
MD
Not sure where you are located, but a vapor barrier under the slab would prevent moisture from coming up
 

Ak Jim

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Interior AK
Vapor barrier, 2” blue board, pex for future radiant heat, drains for a bath or at least a utility sink and toilet.
 
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Dreamshop

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So if I'm using the dimpled floor insulation with pex and 32mpa concrete with fiber mesh, should I lay WWM over the insulation/pex?
 
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