What to seal work bench top with?

[Double B]

Just finished the new improved work bench and I am in the beginning stages of painting/sealing it up.

My reqwuirement is to seal the wood top and still have a function work bench. Functional meaning heavy duty wood/engine work on it.

I was thinking of using Thompsons water seal. Basically two coats. I don't want a varnished finish. Just want to stop the wood from sucking up all kinds of nasty oil and solvents when dripped on. I know the Thompsons will not stop the solvents and oil permently. But it should severly slow down the absorbsion factor so I can wipe up with towels when it happens.

My question is has anyone ever tried it before? How did it work out for you long term?

I don't want varnish as that is a paint. I want a wood sealer.

 

[Stephenw]

I'd use a natural drying oil, like boiled linseed or tung oil. After applying the finish, beware of spontaneous combustion of the dirty rags.

I do my dirty work in a drip pan...

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Have you thought about a matt finish polyurethane? I can't imagine something like Thompsons doing much on a tear down bench. I have used a wipe on poly coating for places that I don't want it to look like I have a finish on the wood. It works great, doesn't take too long to do and lasts fairly well.

 

[Buckgnarly]

I used varnish, nice thick layers. But I also took some steel plate to give me a "beatin'" area and used stall mat material from TSC for the rest. Nice pretty finish underneath but steel and padded useable work areas
TSC sells it by the foot, but be aware it soaks up oil like crazy.

 

[FLgarageDreamer]

I used roll on truck bed liner from Lowe's (in the spray paint aisle) on my top and shelves. worked perfectly.

 

[Jack Olsen]

I stained my benches so they'd all be the same color. They have a few layers of marine varnish on top of that. But then I also cut some lengths of rubber carpet-protector stuff so I could use a hammer and worry a little less.

Still, they get nicked up.

This picture has everything clean and sparkling. But if you look at the Maple-topped bench at the opening of the garage, you can see all sorts of 'patina' in the surface. Benches are made for working, after all.

Oh, and if you think that's too clean to get any use, here's a snapshot of it right now.

 

[MoonRise]

Varnish.

Pretty durable, not too expensive.

Oil finish is not as durable (but certainly easier to 'touch-up, just clean-scuff-apply).

For a woodworking bench, either is probably fine.

For a metalworking/engine/machinery/lots-o-oil type of bench, I'd go more for a metal top with possible drip lips (or a metal drip pan underneath the work.

If you're only going to do 'oily' work on the bench and no wood stuff, fine and don't worry about it (other than a piece of oil-soaked wooden bench top, Keep sparks and flame away!)

But when (not if) the oil/grease/grime/gunk/crud soaks into the wooden bench, you really don't want to be doing (or trying to do) any sort of 'fine' woodworking. All the 'crud' can transfer over to your 'nice' wood pieces and raise havok with trying to put a finish on your 'masterpiece'.

YMMV.

 

[38Chevy454]

I used oil-based polyurethane. There are new water-based formulations, but since I expect oil and solvents, the oil-based seemed a better choice. Takes a long time to dry, so coat it and let it sit at least 24 hours. I used 2 good coats on my workbench top which is just plywood. First one soaks in quick, the second gives you the sealed top surface.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I'd use a natural drying oil, like boiled linseed or tung oil.

Both excellent choices !

IIRC, you need to thin about 1:1 (more for the first coat) with mineral spirits/turpentine. It will take a couple of days to dry. Multiple coats are required, but once completely dried, you will have one of the toughest, longest lasting finishes ever.

Tung oil is a much better wood preservative/waterproofer than Thompson's or anything else. It is a pain to put one (multiple coats, long drying) but it is extremely durable.

 

[Iroc-Z]

I will be sealing my with Bar Top Epoxy. I have found that Menards sells it. Comes as a two part epoxy that you pour on. Self levels and dries.

 

[regguy1]

How about metal over the wood? It will take punishment and last a long time.........

I have wooden bench top, I had a metal fab shop make a metal piece to finish it off...used this one commercially for over 30 years, now it's at home still going strong.

 

[Falcon67]

I used a gray garage floor paint - held up well to engine and trans work.

 

[Mario428]

Oh, and if you think that's too clean to get any use, here's a snapshot of it right now.

Sorry Jack but that is still cleaner than my shop looks at its best!!!!!!! LOL

 

[kwright]

Just finished the new improved work bench and I am in the beginning stages of painting/sealing it up.

My reqwuirement is to seal the wood top and still have a function work bench. Functional meaning heavy duty wood/engine work on it.

I was thinking of using Thompsons water seal. Basically two coats. I don't want a varnished finish. Just want to stop the wood from sucking up all kinds of nasty oil and solvents when dripped on. I know the Thompsons will not stop the solvents and oil permently. But it should severly slow down the absorbsion factor so I can wipe up with towels when it happens.

My question is has anyone ever tried it before? How did it work out for you long term?

I don't want varnish as that is a paint. I want a wood sealer.

POR-15, original gray. Tough as nails, easy to clean, resistant to most chemicals, used it four years ago and it's worked great.

 

[mitusa]

I used polyurethane on mine.....but before I put it on, I made a grid on the tabletop making inch marks and alternating colors of the lines so I could see across the table to the end of the line. Makes it easier to mock things up. I think I used three or four coats.

 

[BellyUpFish]

I stained my benches so they'd all be the same color. They have a few layers of marine varnish on top of that. But then I also cut some lengths of rubber carpet-protector stuff so I could use a hammer and worry a little less.

Still, they get nicked up.

This picture has everything clean and sparkling. But if you look at the Maple-topped bench at the opening of the garage, you can see all sorts of 'patina' in the surface. Benches are made for working, after all.

Oh, and if you think that's too clean to get any use, here's a snapshot of it right now.

A bit off topic, but what vine/ivy is that crawling around your garage?

 

[cheechi]

I use polyurethane also.. lots and lots of it. I have a small benchtop that I put on several coats, after a sand/rub down it looks like laminated store bought benchtop. Every few years I put another few coats on it to make up for the sanding.

My next benchtop will be stained before the poly, when it's finished I'll post up some pics.

 

[junkman104]

Cardboard and grease.

 

[Jackfre]

A film finish like Poly will crack when beaten on. The varnish/oil commonly sold as Danish Oil is good because you do protect the wood, but have a surface that is not slick or reflective and is easy to re-do. Depending upon how fancy your bench is a piece of 1/4" tempered hardboard to throw up on it for a particularly nasty job is good to have as well.

 

[Laker]

Emmet's Good Stuff Wood Finish

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD2S2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[gritsngumbo]

How about metal over the wood? It will take punishment and last a long time.........
I have wooden bench top, I had a metal fab shop make a metal piece to finish it off...used this one commercially for over 30 years, now it's at home still going strong.

Wow! That's a great idea. I like that a lot and will probably copy you

 

[pain]

I stained my benches so they'd all be the same color. They have a few layers of marine varnish on top of that. But then I also cut some lengths of rubber carpet-protector stuff so I could use a hammer and worry a little less.

Still, they get nicked up.

This picture has everything clean and sparkling. But if you look at the Maple-topped bench at the opening of the garage, you can see all sorts of 'patina' in the surface. Benches are made for working, after all.

Oh, and if you think that's too clean to get any use, here's a snapshot of it right now.

Your garge looks clean even when it is dirty

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

A bit off topic, but what vine/ivy is that crawling around your garage?

It's called Boston Ivy - but its not truly an ivy at all. Its common in Southern California to cover walls. Its deciduous; meaning the leaves fall in the winter.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parthenocissus_tricuspidata

 

[pain]

How about metal over the wood? It will take punishment and last a long time.........

I have wooden bench top, I had a metal fab shop make a metal piece to finish it off...used this one commercially for over 30 years, now it's at home still going strong.

That is one awesome top. That Rocks

 

[CGarage]

What should I use on my birch work surface? I want something that is clear that will show off the birch grain but will give protection and that will allow me to wipe off cleaning oils and lubricants, etc...

Thank you!

 

[ItsNemo]

Spar Urethane...a half dozen coats. Mine is holding up incredibly well. I wipe it down with spray nine and everything just comes right off.

 

[CGarage]

https://www.minwax.com/wood-product...ior/minwax-water-based-helmsman-spar-urethane


Will this work? Thank you!

 

[ItsNemo]

https://www.minwax.com/wood-product...ior/minwax-water-based-helmsman-spar-urethane


Will this work? Thank you!

Yup, that's the same as I used.

Honestly short of mechanical damage (scaping or denting the underlying wood)...it has held up really really well for years. From a fluids perspective, I've had grease, oil, anti seize, thread locker, carpenters glue, engine degreaser, spray nine, wd40, even brake clean...all the usual chemicals you see in a garage on it and it's never even discoloured or flaked or separated or any other damage.

Random pic of it after a few years of use, pretty well as good as the day I coated it:

 

[CGarage]

Thank you

 

[tonyciambrone]

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97698

I have had lots of bad experience with Minwax products. Here's an alternative- I like everything I have purchased from Jamestown Distributors so far.

 

[cptn_zippy]

Shellac. Seriously- it's easy to apply, and if it needs fixing, just put another coat on top. No special prep needed.

J

 

[2001ZR2]

I used tung oil on mine but I'm only a month so feel for the durability.

 

[Junkyard_Jalopy]

Apoxy paint?