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What tool for a lady to remove tight lug nuts?

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rust in the eye

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Re-torque your lug nuts to the correct value, this way if you need to remove them in the future you'll know they are not over-torqued. Also, when you're doing this, do a test to find if your lug wrench is sufficient for you or if you need to enhance it.
THIS!^
Tire store monkeys and many general shops are careless about over tightening wheels. If you have a trusted mechanic ask him/her to be sure the wheel bolts are correctly tightened to spec. "anti-seize compound" on the threads will prevent them from rusting and making this even harder.
Manufacturer's provided tire changing tools are usually not very good. As stated a 1/2" drive breaker bar, 24"long with the appropriate size socket and perhaps extension will do the job. This set up can be had in good enough quality tools for under $30
This breaker bar is all you need:https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-...rive/12-in-drive-25-in-breaker-bar-60819.html
No need for torque wrenches or power tools. Put your body weight into it when re-tightening and have them checked later.
Leave it to this crowd to overthink/complicate a simple task.
 
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californiamilleghia

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I did not read all the posts....

But if your tires were changed at a tire store , the chance that they are over tightened is large ,

Have someone with a torque wrench loosen and then tighten them to the correct torque spec.

Then you can probably remove them with a 30 inch breaker bar and a 6 point socket.
 

johnnn

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I am voting with the "long breaker bar" category. No batteries to go dead and it should always work. You might consider a telescoping version. I haven't used one of these, but the idea is appealing.
1740700160706.png
I've used this exact set before. Works great unless the lug nuts are stupidly overtightened. A longer breaker bar may be easier if overtightened. The handle spins if not locked onto ball detent. With any turning tool lifting with proper form should provide more torque than pushing down.
 

Pen & Wrench

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This is a very timely conversation for me. I'm a retired male, used to think I was pretty strong. Last week I had a flat on my pickup & decided to take the tire off as it was hooked up to my gooseneck flatbed trailer and I found that I could not remove the lug nuts with my large 4 way wrench! My cordless impact driver took them off. Most of the time when I haul my skid loader I usually have the torque wrench along, but I think I'll be finding a long breaker bar and leave it in the pickup.
 

Old Man Roger

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My auto insurance company has “free” roadside assistance. Can’t help with the foot.
Can get pricey. Some insurance companies consider a road side assistance call as a claim, they then raise your insurance.
Get rid of the 4-way wrench. They haven't been useful since the '80's...

Just get a proper iron in the correct size from a local junk yard. Cheap, easy, works like a breaker bar and will scare the **** out of anyone you point it at.

1740775795992.png
Most of those ****, a bad fit, and the angle sometimes causes them to want to slide off the lug nut.

Someone mentioned supporting the 4 way with the jack, that and a pipe to increase leverage sounds like a great idea.

Imagine one end of the 4 way on the nut, the other end sitting on the jack, then pushing down on a cheater bar.
 

dave*99

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Can get pricey. Some insurance companies consider a road side assistance call as a claim, they then raise your insurance.

Most of those ****, a bad fit, and the angle sometimes causes them to want to slide off the lug nut.

Someone mentioned supporting the 4 way with the jack, that and a pipe to increase leverage sounds like a great idea.

Imagine one end of the 4 way on the nut, the other end sitting on the jack, then pushing down on a cheater bar.
I can’t speak for other insurance companies. My family has used it without a charge or claim. But as always YMMV.
One of the responders was of questionable character.
The world is full of service offers. But I guess real service comes at a premium.
 

MOwens

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Helped a fried change a couple flat tires on his pivot (irrigation sprinkler farmers use to water typically corn) with a Milwaukee 1/2 impact. Those wheel bolts can be a nightmare to remove because of rust and the harsh conditions they go through. Zipped them right out with little effort compared to the breaker bar. I was sold and bought a couple of my own and keep one in the vehicle when traveling. https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/2967-20
 

PhantomEB

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Michelle is on my AMA membership, no problem throwing my floor jack and cordless impact as well 36” breaker bar (that lives in my truck, it’s a 3500 after all). She rarely goes out of town with her personal vehicle.
 

Fav Onefour

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I wonder where she is located? Up north we deal with salt. Lots of salt. It's common to find that 4 way irons won't break em loose no matter who is on the end. Those tools bend pretty easy and then they break.
 

roc_on_the_rocks

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We also can't assume the OP was turning the 4-way lug wrench in the correct direction.

We have a guy here at work that was told to change the tire on our 4'x8' utility trailer. After about 15 mins he came to ask me what he was doing wrong so I asked him to show me how he was attempting to remove the tire. Sure enough he was turning the lug wrench clockwise.

You'd be surprised at how many people have never heard the mantra of "lefty-loosey" & "righty-tighty".
True!

Especially on older Mopars :)
 
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ssjones

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This is garage journal...

Buy a breaker bar, a good torque wrench, remove all lug nuts, properly torque them.

That way they wont be too tight... :)
That is good advice!

IF your vehicle has a 12v outlet - get an electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight. I only occasionally need an impact wrench and picked one up a few years ago. I have a small compressor, this has been great for rotating tires at oil changes. I keep one in the truck as well, for roadside. With truck running, it will break loose the lugnuts (truck lugs I think is at 95 ft-lbs). My son-in-law keeps one his truck as well, he constantly gets flat tires on his bread delivery trailer.

Now on clearance at $21. They won't last for regular garage use, but useful as above.
 

dave*99

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That is good advice!

IF your vehicle has a 12v outlet - get an electric impact wrench from Harbor Freight. I only occasionally need an impact wrench and picked one up a few years ago. I have a small compressor, this has been great for rotating tires at oil changes. I keep one in the truck as well, for roadside. With truck running, it will break loose the lugnuts (truck lugs I think is at 95 ft-lbs). My son-in-law keeps one his truck as well, he constantly gets flat tires on his bread delivery trailer.

Now on clearance at $21. They won't last for regular garage use, but useful as above.
That is a 120VAC tool. Not gonna work on a 12VDC outlet.
 

Shadowdog500

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When my father got old he bought one of those 12v impact drivers lIke the black one below. It plugs into the cigarette lighter for roadside flat tire repairs. It looked like a cheap Harbor Freight tool but it actually worked great for an emergency flat tire repair. I see they sell better ones for less than fifty bucks with good reviews on Amazon so give it a try. I would also recommend that you get a torque wrench to make sure the lug nuts are tightened properly when reinstalled. I always torque my lug nuts to the specs in the owners manual to ensure they are tight enough to stay on while still being easy to get off. Some of the guys in the tire shops go crazy with the impact gun making it difficult for anyone to get off.

This looks like the one he had.
IMG-3857.jpg


This is a newer one that gets good reviews.
IMG-3858.jpg
 
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gearhead1

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Find the cheapest and longest breaker you can find, probably at least 24" long and 1/2" drive .


Menard's has a 30" version but I doubt there are any in your area.

Then something similar to these, just make sure to get a set with the appropriate sized socket for your car.

www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-impact-flip-socket-set-3-piece-62491.html
+1

I do all my own car work, and my recommendation would be just a long breaker bar and proper socket.
-Make sure the socket is all the way on the lug nut
-Position the breaker bar such that it is about 6” off the ground as if you were to loosen the lug nut. (You may have to remove the socket, rotate it, and put back on the breaker bar to get the position to work out.)
-Put one hand on the car for balance, and stand on the end of the breaker bar.

I‘m happy to take a pic if you need it.

I have had to do this for lug nuts that were rusted. A friend in the snow belt purchased a truck and went to remove the wheel, and couldn’t do it. So both of us were side by side with a hand on the hood and a foot on the breaker bar using the method described above. The breaker bar had quite a bow to it (was a good quality one) and some lug nuts broke loose and the stud broke on others.

Said all that to say this: leverage is your key to being independent on this task. You can do it, you just didn’t know how.

Most guys are actually happy to help, but if nobody is around it’s good to know how to do it.

The math / physics may help in understanding why the aforementioned works.
Most car lug nut torque these days with aluminum rims is around 90 ft lbs and let’s assume there is no rust issue. Let’s round it up to 100 ft - lbs to make it easy. That is the target torque you’re trying to achieve. So in order to create 100 ft - lbs of torque. You could have a 100 ft lever and 1 lb of force. Of course it is not practical to have a 100 ft lever handy, this is just for aid in understanding the concept. 100 ft x 1 lb = 100 ft-lbs of torque.

So let’s look at the trend:
If you had a 100 foot lever, you would need only 1 pound: 100 ft x 1 lb = 100 ft - lbs of torque.
If you had a 50 foot lever, you would need only 2 pounds: 50 ft x 2 lbs = 100 ft - lbs of torque.
If you had a 10 foot lever, you would need 10 pounds: 10 ft x 10 lbs = 100 ft - lbs of torque.
If you had a 5 foot lever, you would 20 pounds: 5 ft x 20 lbs = 100 ft - lbs of torque.
If you had a 2 foot lever, you would need 50 lbs: 2 ft x 50 lbs = 100 ft - lbs of torque.

If you had a 2 foot lever, and 140 lbs: 2 feet x 140 pounds = 280 ft - lbs of torque. In this scenario, since the torque of 280 ft - lbs is far beyond the 100 ft - lbs, the lug nut should loosen (of course this assumes there is no rust, and it was not over tightened etc).
 

gearhead1

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By the way, you came to the right place for these types of things! Welcome to Garage Journal!
 

dave*99

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+1

I do all my own car work, and my recommendation would be just a long breaker bar and proper socket.
-Make sure the socket is all the way on the lug nut
-Position the breaker bar such that it is about 6” off the ground as if you were to loosen the lug nut. (You may have to remove the socket, rotate it, and put back on the breaker bar to get the position to work out.)
-Put one hand on the car for balance, and stand on the end of the breaker bar.

I‘m happy to take a pic if you need it.

I have had to do this for lug nuts that were rusted. A friend in the snow belt purchased a truck and went to remove the wheel, and couldn’t do it. So both of us were side by side with a hand on the hood and a foot on the breaker bar using the method described above. The breaker bar had quite a bow to it (was a good quality one) and some lug nuts broke loose and the stud broke on others.

Said all that to say this: leverage is your key to being independent on this task. You can do it, you just didn’t know how.

Most guys are actually happy to help, but if nobody is around it’s good to know how to do it.

The math / physics may help in understanding why the aforementioned works.
Most car lug nut torque these days with aluminum rims is around 90 ft lbs and let’s assume there is no rust issue. Let’s round it up to 100 ft - lbs to make it easy. That is the target torque you’re trying to achieve. So in order to create 100 ft - lbs of torque. You could have a 100 ft lever and 1 lb of force. Of course it is not practical to have a 100 ft lever handy, this is just for aid in understanding the concept. 100 ft x 1 lb = 100 ft-lbs of torque.

So let’s look at the trend:
If you had a 100 foot lever, you would need only 1 pound: 100 ft x 1 lb = 100 ft - lbs of torque.
If you had a 50 foot lever, you would need only 2 pounds: 50 ft x 2 lbs = 100 ft - lbs of torque.
If you had a 10 foot lever, you would need 10 pounds: 10 ft x 10 lbs = 100 ft - lbs of torque.
If you had a 5 foot lever, you would 20 pounds: 5 ft x 20 lbs = 100 ft - lbs of torque.
If you had a 2 foot lever, you would need 50 lbs: 2 ft x 50 lbs = 100 ft - lbs of torque.

If you had a 2 foot lever, and 140 lbs: 2 feet x 140 pounds = 280 ft - lbs of torque. In this scenario, since the torque of 280 ft - lbs is far beyond the 100 ft - lbs, the lug nut should loosen (of course this assumes there is no rust, and it was not over tightened etc).
Wouldn’t a 100 foot lever be heavy enough to break the nut free or snap it off with just its own weight? o_O
If we are gonna break out the physics…..
 

gahrajmahal

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Hello kh21, welcome to the board. I hope you will continue to start threads on this message board and contribute with your results from this one. Here in snowy and salty Ohio I also recommend putting Never Seize on your lug nuts when you have them off.

Here is a thread I made last March regarding flat tires and "space saver spares" . https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...space-saver-spare-for-your-loved-ones.530184/

My experience is there ready to take your yearly membership money. They are hard to find when you actually need them - 'We'll be there in about 4-5 hours, it's an unusually busy today'
My AAA story contradicts this one. The Mrs. and I were returning from lunch in my Honda and noticed cheap gas. So, I pulled up and filled the tank. When I went to leave, the vehicle would not even click to start. I knew the battery was good as I had replaced it the year before. I had tools and a flashlight, but could not determine what the problem was, so the Mrs. phoned AAA with our location. Without an app on our phone, they sent a link via. text and we were able to see where the first available tow truck was and could track its location. This was very critical as the station attendant was very unhappy, we were blocking the pumps. The truck arrived within 15 minutes and had us loaded up in what seemed like five minutes. Mrs. Gahrajmahal really enjoyed the elevated ride back to our house in the cab of the wrecker. He easily backed into our steep driveway and dropped the Honda right where I wanted it.

The problem with my vehicle? The exposed cable on the starter had corroded, breaking the connection. The new replacement had the same poor design flaw. I hosed it down with anti-corrosion spray prior to the install.
 

dchawk81

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Joined
Jul 31, 2014
Messages
14,469
+1

I do all my own car work, and my recommendation would be just a long breaker bar and proper socket.
-Make sure the socket is all the way on the lug nut
-Position the breaker bar such that it is about 6” off the ground as if you were to loosen the lug nut. (You may have to remove the socket, rotate it, and put back on the breaker bar to get the position to work out.)
-Put one hand on the car for balance, and stand on the end of the breaker bar.

I‘m happy to take a pic if you need it.

I have had to do this for lug nuts that were rusted. A friend in the snow belt purchased a truck and went to remove the wheel, and couldn’t do it. So both of us were side by side with a hand on the hood and a foot on the breaker bar using the method described above. The breaker bar had quite a bow to it (was a good quality one) and some lug nuts broke loose and the stud broke on others.

Said all that to say this: leverage is your key to being independent on this task. You can do it, you just didn’t know how.

Most guys are actually happy to help, but if nobody is around it’s good to know how to do it.

The math / physics may help in understanding why the aforementioned works.
Most car lug nut torque these days with aluminum rims is around 90 ft lbs and let’s assume there is no rust issue. Let’s round it up to 100 ft - lbs to make it easy. That is the target torque you’re trying to achieve. So in order to create 100 ft - lbs of torque. You could have a 100 ft lever and 1 lb of force. Of course it is not practical to have a 100 ft lever handy, this is just for aid in understanding the concept. 100 ft x 1 lb = 100 ft-lbs of torque.

So let’s look at the trend:
If you had a 100 foot lever, you would need only 1 pound: 100 ft x 1 lb = 100 ft - lbs of torque.
If you had a 50 foot lever, you would need only 2 pounds: 50 ft x 2 lbs = 100 ft - lbs of torque.
If you had a 10 foot lever, you would need 10 pounds: 10 ft x 10 lbs = 100 ft - lbs of torque.
If you had a 5 foot lever, you would 20 pounds: 5 ft x 20 lbs = 100 ft - lbs of torque.
If you had a 2 foot lever, you would need 50 lbs: 2 ft x 50 lbs = 100 ft - lbs of torque.

If you had a 2 foot lever, and 140 lbs: 2 feet x 140 pounds = 280 ft - lbs of torque. In this scenario, since the torque of 280 ft - lbs is far beyond the 100 ft - lbs, the lug nut should loosen (of course this assumes there is no rust, and it was not over tightened etc).
Or just get a torque multiplier and skip all the sweat and risk.

Think like a woman who might be small, not particularly muscular, and maybe in some clothing that falling down wouldn't be a favorable experience.

Don't think like a dude who has mass and will get it just by leaning on it.
 

Pen & Wrench

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You know, this is the Garage Journal, breaker bars will work, but if anybody needs an excuse to buy a really powerful battery powered impact wrench, here it is!
 

cleaner

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dchawk81

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Hello kh21, welcome to the board. I hope you will continue to start threads on this message board and contribute with your results from this one. Here in snowy and salty Ohio I also recommend putting Never Seize on your lug nuts when you have them off.

Here is a thread I made last March regarding flat tires and "space saver spares" . https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...space-saver-spare-for-your-loved-ones.530184/


My AAA story contradicts this one. The Mrs. and I were returning from lunch in my Honda and noticed cheap gas. So, I pulled up and filled the tank. When I went to leave, the vehicle would not even click to start. I knew the battery was good as I had replaced it the year before. I had tools and a flashlight, but could not determine what the problem was, so the Mrs. phoned AAA with our location. Without an app on our phone, they sent a link via. text and we were able to see where the first available tow truck was and could track its location. This was very critical as the station attendant was very unhappy, we were blocking the pumps. The truck arrived within 15 minutes and had us loaded up in what seemed like five minutes. Mrs. Gahrajmahal really enjoyed the elevated ride back to our house in the cab of the wrecker. He easily backed into our steep driveway and dropped the Honda right where I wanted it.

The problem with my vehicle? The exposed cable on the starter had corroded, breaking the connection. The new replacement had the same poor design flaw. I hosed it down with anti-corrosion spray prior to the install.
That ALMOST happened to me with the Mack. It was getting harder and harder to start and I'm thinking great, a failing starter. Coincidentally tapping it would get it to turn over when it clicked. When I got to where I could really inspect it and start touching things, the main wire fell off in my hands. The tapping only coincidentally moved the wire into contact enough to start.

Cut off the end, put on a new eyelet, and it's been fine ever since.
 

BreeStephany

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I keep a 3/4" drive 36" breaker bar and 3/4" 22mm impact socket in my truck under the back seat to ensure EASY tire changes, no matter the conditions. Whether it's in the middle of a blizzard or pouring down rain, I can get the lug nuts off, tire changed and lug nuts back on in a matter of minutes... more importantly, almost ANYONE who uses my truck can do the same with ease!

That reminds me... I need to get a similar setup for our Tahoe as well... guess I need to add that to the "To-Do" list...
 

PCustoms

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I keep a 3/4" drive 36" breaker bar and 3/4" 22mm impact socket in my truck under the back seat to ensure EASY tire changes, no matter the conditions. Whether it's in the middle of a blizzard or pouring down rain, I can get the lug nuts off, tire changed and lug nuts back on in a matter of minutes... more importantly, almost ANYONE who uses my truck can do the same with ease!

That reminds me... I need to get a similar setup for our Tahoe as well... guess I need to add that to the "To-Do" list...

Thanks, I used to carry the 1/2" drive short bar in the old truck, never put it in the new truck for some stupid reason. Plenty of room under the seat for this monster

 

gearhead1

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Wouldn’t a 100 foot lever be heavy enough to break the nut free or snap it off with just its own weight? o_O
If we are gonna break out the physics…..
Using traditional statics you would apply the weight of the of the beam at the distance of the CG for the torque caused by the beam itself. The weight of the beam depends on the geometry, cross section, and material of the beam.

But of course we all know the length isn’t feasible anyway, but serves to understand the option presented. Ultimately up to the OP which option(s) she prefers.
 

Glemon

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NE
This might be just the ticket for $18:

Telescoping lug wrench

IMG_0009.jpeg
I have a similar and it works great, but I am a medium to large sized guy and reasonably strong.

I don't know about an rechargable impact, people can't generally seem to keep their spare aired up, keeping a battery charged in a forgotten tool in the trunk seems a tall order for most.

Probably a 24 inch breaker bar and some practice with technique in the driveway or garage. Best of luck.
 

Beerhippie

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Oct 13, 2023
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Far NE Oregon
Nobody yet mentioned anti seize… 😎
Not for a noob!

No insult intended, mam, but anti-seize on lug nuts it a precision sort of thing--a tiny bit travels a long ways. If it gets onto your brake disk, it's gonna be bad.

No one else had mentioned, and maybe I shouldn't either, but a good breaker bar is a very good self-defense weapon in a pinch. One small person to another. Just never hesitate--if you feel you need it, use it immediately, and mean to do harm.
 
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