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What type of solder ?

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Rosso

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Hi,

I'm starting to do a lot of wiring repairs at my work, anything from parking senor wiring looms to abs sensors etc etc

I've bought myself a soldering kit which im fine using but could do with some advice on what type of solder to use. We have several rolls of it at work and all of it is rubbish.

So for automotive what am i best with, resin core, rosin core, fluxed ?

Thanks
 
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404

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Kester 24-6337-0027 44 Rosin Cored Wire Sn63/Pb37

One of the very best. 63/37 avoids the "mush" stage during cooling.
 

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rshadd

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Kester "44" Rosin Core Solder (.031)




  • Wire diameter: .031"
  • Alloy: Sn63Pb37 (63% Tin / 37% Lead)
  • Melting range: 361°F (183°C)
  • Core flux type: RA
  • Core size: 66
  • Spool size: 1 lb.
  • Shelf life: 3 years from DOM
 
Last edited:
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Bondo

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Ayuh,.... I was taught rosin core is for wirin', 'n acid flux core was for plumbin',...

I understand the acid flux core will cause corrosion of the wirin' if used on wirin',...

But, what's the downside of usin' rosin core solder on Plumbin',..??..??

'n what's that Rubyfluid stuff,..??
 
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Davefr

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Kester or Multicore 60/40 using Nocorode or Rosin flux is the best. Lead free solder is **** IMHO. (just don't eat the solder with lead in it)
 
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AndeiH

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Tin/silver solder with some good electronics flux. The flux makes all the difference.
 
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Buster21

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I have been using Ersin rosin core 60/40 since the 50's. In my opinion it is the best you can buy for electronics. The only problem is I don't know if you can still buy it. My second choice is the Kester 60/40, and you might be able to get some Radio Shack solder which is not that bad, but you better hurry before they close the doors. Also like others have said I stay away from the lead free stuff, it just doesn't work the same. Also Alpha Metals used to make a 60/40 electrical solder which isn't to bad.

IMG_0399.jpg
 
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exmaxima1

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OP
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Rosso

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Hi,

Thank you all for the input, the lead free stuff is what we have at work and it's completely ****.

The Kester stuff, looks great unfortunately getting it here in the UK is seemingly impossible, not a single source of buying it (without being ripped off)

Only similar stuff i can find in the UK is radio shack stuff ?
 
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Steinmetz

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rshadd said:
Kester "44" Rosin Core Solder (.031)




  • Wire diameter: .031"
  • Alloy: Sn63Pb37 (63% Tin / 37% Lead)
  • Melting range: 361°F (183°C)
  • Core flux type: RA
  • Core size: 66
  • Spool size: 1 lb.
  • Shelf life: 3 years from DOM

Rubyfluid Soldering Paste
Click to expand...

Don't use fluxes containing zinc chloride on electrical connections. Use a rosin flux only.
 
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Steinmetz

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Buster21 said:
I have been using Ersin rosin core 60/40 since the 50's. In my opinion it is the best you can buy for electronics. The only problem is I don't know if you can still buy it. My second choice is the Kester 60/40, and you might be able to get some Radio Shack solder which is not that bad, but you better hurry before they close the doors. Also like others have said I stay away from the lead free stuff, it just doesn't work the same. Also Alpha Metals used to make a 60/40 electrical solder which isn't to bad.

IMG_0399.jpg
Click to expand...

Ersin solders always left a messy, greasy flux reside. The flux used in Kester cored solders was much better, in my opinion.
 
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FiendFX

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Rosso said:
Hi,

Thank you all for the input, the lead free stuff is what we have at work and it's completely ****.

The Kester stuff, looks great unfortunately getting it here in the UK is seemingly impossible, not a single source of buying it (without being ripped off)

Only similar stuff i can find in the UK is radio shack stuff ?
Click to expand...

How is it ****? You are just soldering automotive wires correct?
 
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Rosso

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We all use it at my work, we all find the same problems. Either A: It just doesn't flow well enough making it a pain to use and B: The solder breaking after a few weeks/months.
 
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srmofo

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I've always used rosin core 60/40 leaded. I like to have at least 2 diameters for automotive. 1 around .030 and another around .060.

I find the uses vary quite a bit and is nice to have a larger diameter every once in a while
 
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FiendFX

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Rosso said:
We all use it at my work, we all find the same problems. Either A: It just doesn't flow well enough making it a pain to use and B: The solder breaking after a few weeks/months.
Click to expand...

I believe the mixture of tin with others like silver, copper and etc plays a role.
 
4

404

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rshadd said:
Kester "44" Rosin Core Solder (.031)




  • Wire diameter: .031"
  • Alloy: Sn63Pb37 (63% Tin / 37% Lead)
  • Melting range: 361°F (183°C)
  • Core flux type: RA
  • Core size: 66
  • Spool size: 1 lb.
  • Shelf life: 3 years from DOM

Rubyfluid Soldering Paste
Click to expand...

With all due respect, that ruby is a chloride flux (zinc in hydrochloric acid) and not a safe choice on electronics/electrical. I do use that ruby flux soldering copper roof flashing. A flux based on pine tree sap (rosin) is better for electronics. I make my own out of blocks of rosin and alcohol, on those occasions there is no nearby pine tree to Rodger.
 
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gotham

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I'd also investigate quality crimp connectors and tools. Less to go wrong and less chance of breakage due to vibration.
 
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gordyy

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if your using rosin core solder why the paste?? if your having to use paste and rosin core solder on copper and other electrical fittings how corroded does it have to be before it doesn't take? Have never had to worry about flux with rosin core solder the flux is in the solder, however you do have to have somewhat clean stuff. All full of corrosion from someone doing it wrong before, you either need a wire brush or replace some components.
 
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Kevin54

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I don't know if you have any of the safety rules and regulations over in Scotland like we do in the US, but if you are going to be getting into a lot of soldering and doing it on a daily basis, request that they put in a fume extractor for you. It doesn't amount to much. The ones our shop had at the solder stations were a bell shaped piece of plastic on a flex tube (so you could move it around and it stayed in place), they had a small motor, and some piping that pulled it up to a vented unit.

You don't want to be breathing the solder and flux fumes all day, days at a time. Our shop had a few sick people until they got the extractors put in. My wife was a qualified assembly person that a lot of her job involved soldering. She was always complaining about headaches. Once she retired, she very rarely gets a headache anymore. I think it was due to the fumes. The headaches dropped off some when they put the extractors in, but even at that, you will still get some fumes.
 
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FiendFX

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Fretters said:
Rosso, is it just standard 60/40 you're after? RS, CPC etc should stock that.




Lead free is naff. Like Rosso says, far more prone to dry joints/brittling.
Click to expand...

I used the harbor freight lead free solder to solder a jumper wire from an oxygen sensor. Once I had solder it, I had my co-worker pull one end and I pull the other the wire couldn't even break. That's how strong the solder was.
 
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