Fretters
Well-known member
That's not what was mentioned. The lead free solders are more prone to vibration and movement related fatigue, and also crystallisation, (dry joints), under certain conditions
What type of solder ?
- Thread starter Rosso
- Start date
That's not what was mentioned. The lead free solders are more prone to vibration and movement related fatigue, and also crystallisation, (dry joints), under certain conditions
I can't comment on the brands our US friends are recommending but I have been using Weller 60/40 since I was studying electronics back in the day. This is what we used on electronics and I have not found anything better. Great for wires, flows well and stays soft for long time.
And yes, some solder sold in automotive stores requires mad skills to connect two wires. Not sure what it is actually intended for but copper wires are not on that list.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WELLER-EL...Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item51a3a5d1b9
I don't know. Could be different names for the same thing?
If you cut the Weller stuff with sharp knife you see few dots around the center of the core. Thats the resin. Perhaps thats what "rosin core" means?
Perhaps you can dig up more info on their web.
http://www.weller.de/
I can see they are producing led free solder... I can't comment on that, never tried it. But If I were to try led free, I guess Weller would be my first choice.
If you cut the Weller stuff with sharp knife you see few dots around the center of the core. Thats the resin. Perhaps thats what "rosin core" means?
Perhaps you can dig up more info on their web.
http://www.weller.de/
I can see they are producing led free solder... I can't comment on that, never tried it. But If I were to try led free, I guess Weller would be my first choice.
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hotdogstand
Well-known member
I'm a certified micro-miniature repair technician in the Navy. The ONLY kind of solder accepted by the Navy is lead-alloy (60/40 or 63/37) and we use a liquid flux. Use isopropyl to clean the flux off after soldering as it is corrosive, and the reason for the specific blend of solder is because it has been shown to have the lowest melting point so you don't accidentally overheat your components trying to melt the solder. Hopefully by now you know to heat the wire and melt solder into it, rather than use the iron to melt the solder and try and "spread it" on your work piece.
As for shelf-life? Should be good for years. I've never had a problem with old solder.
As for shelf-life? Should be good for years. I've never had a problem with old solder.
Fretters
Well-known member
It is. Rosin is a natural product. The mention of resin which Rosso has noted was likely just a typo.
Most of my solder comes from garage sales. (typically about $1/roll) Sometime I get lucky and get 5 lb spools vs the little 1 lb spools.
I agree that shelf life is a bunch of B.S.
These rolls look like they came over on the Mayflower but they perform better then most new solders.
Since they're 40% lead, I have a safety note that says "don't eat the solder".
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Fretters
Well-known member
It always makes me wonder, when you see a caution like that, as to what the incident was which the manufacturer must have heard of to make including a note of that rather obvious fact necessary.
Fretters
Well-known member
Just searched for "Resin core solder" on Google. First link was Screwfix, with resin core solder as the product title. On the label in the image though, it says rosin plain as day.
Looks like it's just the marketing muppets mislabelling things. Saying that though, I wouldn't be surprised if they're farting around with flux variants these days. Seems manufacturers love to change tried and tested things for no good reason.The main choice to make when deciding on a flux, whether it comes in a cored wire or a liquid or paste form, is how aggressive it should be. The more aggressive or "active" the flux, the harder the oxides it can remove, and the faster it can remove them. Going from weakest to strongest, typical choices for hand soldering applications include: "no clean", RMA (Rosin Mildly Activated), RA (Rosin Activated), and water soluble. A newer classification system (J-STD-004) has recently been adopted and classifies fluxes not by rosin content, but by activity, material, and halide presence.
The new system classifies flux by material (RO=rosin, RE=resin, OR=organic, IN=inorganic), activity level (Low, Moderate, High), and halide presence (0 or 1). No-clean, rosin-based no-clean fluxes might be labeled ROL0 or ROL1. Although there is no direct translation between the old system and new, most R and RMA fluxes fall under Low activity level, RA are generally labeled as Moderate activity, and water soluble are High activity. (source IPC-HDBK-001 www.ipc.org)
Oh my did not know that there was such a large aspect to solder.
Good info here, I think anyway.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
The new system classifies flux by material (RO=rosin, RE=resin, OR=organic, IN=inorganic), activity level (Low, Moderate, High), and halide presence (0 or 1). No-clean, rosin-based no-clean fluxes might be labeled ROL0 or ROL1. Although there is no direct translation between the old system and new, most R and RMA fluxes fall under Low activity level, RA are generally labeled as Moderate activity, and water soluble are High activity. (source IPC-HDBK-001 www.ipc.org)
Oh my did not know that there was such a large aspect to solder.
Good info here, I think anyway.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
nicksnothereman
Well-known member
I believe I use rosin core. I don't really look to tell you the truth; ridiculous I know. My soldering method is also ridiculous but the results don't lie. Street solder-er bro. Failure rate on my own stuff is zero.
I think electronics repair is more on the technician rather than the materials. So maybe work with what you got? As long as it's thin solder (for car harnesses).
I've got no problems about wanting to avoiding lead, but you should be clear about where the real risks are. The effects of solder on the lungs are purely due to the flux, which is why adequate ventilation is a good idea. The vapour pressure of the metals themselves (be they lead or tin or other) are negligible at the working temperatures. So there is no actual risk of direct lead inhalation from the vapours that come straight off the tip.
Metallic lead is also very stable, so there's also not much risk of intake from directly handling the lead. Though it is of course a good idea not to stick your fingers in your mouth and to wash your hands before eating when using it (leaded solder). It only really takes basic precautions.
Where there is a small risk of lead contamination is from the lead oxides that can form on the end of the tip, and which come off when you wipe the tip. If you use a hard clean work surface, and you wipe down with a damp cloth when finished, then risk levels can be kept very low.
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With the above that being said, I like to use unleaded solder too, especially when it's not something temperature or "whisker" critical.
I keep both leaded and non leaded solder here. I still use the 63/37 (Tin/Lead) for when I want the lowest temperature and the best result, but I also use a non leaded Tin/Silver/Copper solder much of the time.
The best non leaded solder that I've found is about 3.0 to 3.5% silver and 0.5% to 0.8% copper with the remainder (about 96%) tin. This is quite an expensive solder due to the silver content, but it's the best lead free option that I've come across. I find this alloy flows very well, and is only slightly higher in melting point compared to the regular 60/40 leaded solder.
I keep both leaded and non leaded solder here. I still use the 63/37 (Tin/Lead) for when I want the lowest temperature and the best result, but I also use a non leaded Tin/Silver/Copper solder much of the time.
The best non leaded solder that I've found is about 3.0 to 3.5% silver and 0.5% to 0.8% copper with the remainder (about 96%) tin. This is quite an expensive solder due to the silver content, but it's the best lead free option that I've come across. I find this alloy flows very well, and is only slightly higher in melting point compared to the regular 60/40 leaded solder.
Mohawk Dave
Well-known member
6 WATCHED IN THE LAST 24 HOURS...from ebay..wonder how/why. lol http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171645480879?lpid=82&chn=ps
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-5-Oz-St...052?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item1c3cb94cbc
Good enough for what i need ?
I'd like some Kester but postage cost from America to Europe are insane.
Good enough for what i need ?
I'd like some Kester but postage cost from America to Europe are insane.