What would you do different.

[aar0s]

Like the title says, if you had to rebuild what would you do next time that you didn't this time.

Last time I built I had to reuse the old slab, next time it gets a new slab with 2 foam underneath, more power than I have now and a small heat/ac unit in the wall. 12 foot walls and a lift

 

[Richard Cranium]

bigger much bigger

 

[firworks]

I'd like to have at least TWO circuits for my entire garage... one of them preferably not shared with the living room, den, laundry room and exterior lights.

I didn't build though, I bought about the worst house I could have possibly bought for working on stuff. Single car tiny garage with a single circuit serving it and a whole bunch of other shared stuff. My VW Jetta fits with about a foot on each side and you can just barely close the garage door. Hence I've never used it to park in.

Makes me think though wherever I go next maybe I should just plan on an out building and then I CAN decide what I'd do differently "this" time.

 

[RVDan]

If money was no object there is certainly a lot of things I would do different. With my zero budget I couldn't afford to do anything different.

 

[T_R]

I would have put a concrete block stem wall a few feet high then studs. I think I am just going to jack the building up and add one in the future raising the walls from 8 to 12.

 

[lakeroadster]

Mine needs a '63 split window...

 

[softailgarage]

Outlets, wired in cable, ceiling exhaust fan, stand up urinal.
OUTLETS - (1) 2 plug outlet every 5' along the base of every wall, (1) 4 pluig outlet, mid height, every 8' and a 12 outlet strip above the workbench (s). Also (1) 2 plug outlet next to each ceiling light.
CABLE - internet & cable TV at workbench and desk
FAN - above workbench (smoker) & Ultrasonic area

 

[aar0s]

I would have put a concrete block stem wall a few feet high then studs. I think I am just going to jack the building up and add one in the future raising the walls from 8 to 12.

That's not a bad idea, biggest problem I see is the doorways both walk and overhead and really that wouldt be much of a problem.

 

[firworks]

Mine needs a '63 split window...

First time reading your post I thought "That's a huuuge window. He must love natural light..."

I get it now. I get things.

 

[willf650]

Make it bigger and insulation right off the bat. I didn't do any real insulation and I'm planning it a year later and it will require me to temporarily do a lot of shuffling to work on each wall. I also probably wouldn't put the windows in. They cause you not to put stuff along the walls in front of them. Windows are a toss up though as the do make the exterior look better.


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[nadogail]

If I had it to do over, I would not have cheaped out on insulation, power & wiring.

What I have is the envy of every man on the block, but I realize what I cheaped out on.

 

[J66442]

I ran 2 inch conduit under the sab to each wall from the circuit box location. Hindsight I would have run 2 conduits to each wall as well as smaller conduit for low voltage. Conduit is a lot cheaper than running the extra wire along the roof.

 

[383 240z]

foam under my slab, radiant heat in the slab. taller walls. That's about all I'd do different

I've got 100amp service in the shop. I added cat6 not long ago for wi-fi this fall. Running water, hot and cold, would be nice

 

[unslow1]

More electrical, tall enough for lift, NG run for a house style furnace.

 

[myredracer]

After 4+ decades of adult life, I finally have a garage, and a dream one at that. Has 3" foam under the slab, in-floor hydronic heating, hardened& colored surface on concrete, excellent lighting, lots of power and outlets, commercial steel shelving down one wall, a washroom, etc....

However, I REALLY wish I had either built-in or space for standalone cabinet(s) to seal dust and dirt away from tools and car parts. We have an adjacent heated storage room but will have to trek back and forth all the time.

I got the rigid foam for under the slab from a local building materials recycler for waay cheaper than new. Came off commercial building roofs. A few defects and chunks missing but easily trimmed as needed. If in a cold area in winter, you might want to extend rigid foam boards around the foundation perimeter on the exterior around 2'. Can do on interior side too if too difficult on the outside.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I would have moved the bathroom wall out about 6-8". It's hard to sit on the ******* with your knees touching the wall.

What was a men's and women's restroom became one large one. Not till after I was done did I realize it was too small.

 

[pmiranda]

I ran 2 inch conduit under the sab to each wall from the circuit box location. Hindsight I would have run 2 conduits to each wall as well as smaller conduit for low voltage. Conduit is a lot cheaper than running the extra wire along the roof.

Really? I figured romex through the attic would be cheaper than conduit, and I expect most outlets to be nearly as high on the wall in a garage as they would be low from the ceiling but I haven't done the math yet for my planned shop.

 

[egnorant]

"Should be plenty" is considered a fraction. 6 lights "should" be enough...wire for 12.
10 foot wide doors! See if you can afford 12 or bigger.
Don't build it to just be currently useful, build it to make you say WOW!

Consider insulation as important as a roof. It is the very difficult to put insulation in later.

Lights outside and electrical too. (I'm never going to park a travel trailer or need to charge a battery outside are lies).

Bruce

 

[aar0s]

My fil tought I was silly for wanting three out side lights and a outlet outside but man is it nice being able to cut lumber or do other things that would normally make a mess in the garage outside.

 

[TerryH]

After 21 years of working on and working in my shop I still wish I had better electrical. More outlets and more spots with 240v. Would be nice if the walls were farther apart also.

 

[fiveohpatrol]

The biggest thing I would have changed is putting the doors under the gable ends instead of the eave. Didn't think about snow during the build. When it slides off, makes for a major PITA 40ft long, 3ft high snow mound that I have to shovel through in order to get through the doors. Usually after it has a chance to re-freeze.

Another thing, although minor, is paint. I hung 1/2" plywood on the walls with the intention of painting them. Once the shelves and junk started moving in, painting never happened. Maybe one day when other projects subside.

I went a little overboard on outlets, which I'm glad I did now. Probably a result of a similar thread on GJ before I wired it. I put them every 8ft along each wall and have 2 circuits per 40ft wall so I'm less likely to overload them.

 

[dw1]

I went 30x50x12, I would love to attach an east wing 30x50x12 adjacent, to the end of it and come outward. This is down on the list, next on the agenda is to tear down the 116 Y.O farm house.

 

[T_R]

That's not a bad idea, biggest problem I see is the doorways both walk and overhead and really that wouldt be much of a problem.

I'd just reframe the openings to fill in the empty space above the doors and redo the siding. It's just T1-11 it wouldn't be a big deal to pop it off get a few new sheets and stain to match. I think I could do the whole job in a few days, a week at most.

 

[PhantomEB]

Would go 40x80 deep. Sectioned into halves front to back. I floor heated Parking for all the toys then back half which is in floor heated and overhead heater as my fab shop/drinkin area. ******* be out in the parking area.

Lean to for the RV, car hauler and utility trailer ready to go on a moments notice!

 

[mjchamp]

I have read countless hindsight, do it over again, what would you change, ect. threads and it all comes down to this:

#1 BIGGER. make the building bigger. When you think it is big enough make it bigger yet

#2 Power. Seems that everyone wants more outlets, or better outlet spacing. Also use 12-2 not 14-2. More service power to shop. 100Amp seems to be a minimum.

#3 Heat. People wish they would have put in in-floor heat. Larger upfront cost but worth it in the end

#4 Lights. Better and more lighting

#5 Insulation. Put in better insulation that you think you need

#6 Garage door. This is part of #5 make sure you get a good INSULATED garage door

#7 Water/ Bathroom. Hot and cold water to shop. If budge allows adding a bathroom.


MJC

 

[machsnell]

I have read countless hindsight, do it over again, what would you change, ect. threads and it all comes down to this:

#1 BIGGER. make the building bigger. When you think it is big enough make it bigger yet

#2 Power. Seems that everyone wants more outlets, or better outlet spacing. Also use 12-2 not 14-2. More service power to shop. 100Amp seems to be a minimum.

#3 Heat. People wish they would have put in in-floor heat. Larger upfront cost but worth it in the end

#4 Lights. Better and more lighting

#5 Insulation. Put in better insulation that you think you need

#6 Garage door. This is part of #5 make sure you get a good INSULATED garage door

#7 Water/ Bathroom. Hot and cold water to shop. If budge allows adding a bathroom.


MJC

This in a nutshell. Yes.

And to finish before you move in.

It is killing me and I am super busy but I am at year two and almost there but I haven't moved everything in and started heavy work and I am almost done and glad I waited. I do have an attic and basement tho and that is a different story.

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[MisterMike]

I've got a 30x48x14 pole barn that's come along nicely in the almost four years since we built it, but once I get all our equipment inside, it fills up. It sure would be nice to have an extra 12' of depth, but I suppose that's on the wish list of a lot of people.

 

[Rickster]

A bit wider and twice as long.... more outlets & power..... gas wall heater.

 

[pmiranda]

A bit wider and twice as long.... more outlets & power..... gas wall heater.

Why a bit wider? I'm asking because I'm trying to decide how much extra width I need along the side walls measured from the door opening. I've heard 3 feet minimum but my current and last house we only had one foot and it hasn't been an issue for parking cars. I'm thinking at least two feet so I'll have room to swing a jack handle without relocating a car. When I find a flat it ***** to have to air it back up just to move the car and swap the tire.

 

[Rickster]

I have a row of storage shelves all along the side wall that I really like. It would be really nice to have another three feet to open the car door and still keep the storage shelves.

 

[Mitheral]

I've already got super insulated double stud walls; 2" foam under radiant in floor heat; ICF foundation; 6x7 wash room where the whole room is a tiled shower room; 8X10 sliding insulated door; switched circuits every four feet in the ceiling to plug shop lights into; sink and dishwasher; MWBC receptacles essentially every 24" (allows for either 120 or 240 volts at every outlet just be changing the receptacle) and lots of windows for natural light and solar gain.

Things I'd change:
Have the window sills at 40" instead of 48" so it would be easier to look out.
I'd still run NMD (loomex) to all my planned outlets but I'd also run 3/4" from my panel to a couple locations on each wall. I'd also run some blind stubs under the concrete in several places in order to add floor boxes in the future.
I'd use these recessed exterior boxes from Arlington instead of the surface mount boxes I have now.

I'd use a trough drain in my shower instead of a conventional round centre drain.

I'd frame off my electrical and mechanical closet from the rest of the shop and have access via an exterior door. For the cost of the door you completely isolate the air between the two keeping dust out of the services. Maybe stick the compressor in that room too.

 

[jwh]

Make it as big as your money and/or your town will allow. I went 30' X 30'. Biggest town and budget could take.

John

 

[vintagelifev8]

I'm running electric after having the shop built for 1.75 years...it's a pain to move all my **** around to run wire. Wire it before you put anything in it!


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[NUTTSGT]

#5 Insulation. Put in better insulation that you think you need



MJC

If stick building, I'd always recommend 2x6 walls. A slight cost increase for 2x4 vs 2x6. The insulation will cost you more in the beginning but the return on investment for the extra insulation will save you everyday forward that you heat or cool.