What would you do differently next time??

[ngiovas]

I'm new to the forum but have been lurking for a while. I have been thinking about building a large detached garage next year and am gathering design ideas. Just by reading the posts here on Garage Journal, I have gathered many great ideas (like putting conduit in the concrete to power a lift), but I am sure there are many ideas that I haven't come across yet.

I did a search but didn't come across a consolidated thread (please point me in the right direction if a thread exists), so I thought I would post the question here so that members can provide info on what they would do differently if they could build their garage again, or what they did do that they are really happy about. Hopefully others will find this useful as well.

thanks in advance,

Nick

 

[Classic Bronco Guy]

I'm new to the forum but have been lurking for a while. I have been thinking about building a large detached garage next year and am gathering design ideas. Just by reading the posts here on Garage Journal, I have gathered many great ideas (like putting conduit in the concrete to power a lift), but I am sure there are many ideas that I haven't come across yet.



I did a search but didn't come across a consolidated thread (please point me in the right direction if a thread exists), so I thought I would post the question here so that members can provide info on what they would do differently if they could build their garage again, or what they did do that they are really happy about. Hopefully others will find this useful as well.



thanks in advance,



Nick

Get your plans...then add 25%. It always looks bigger on paper [emoji3]


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[dagofast]

I'd make damn sure that I was born rich. That would have sped things along nicely.

 

[sberry]

How big, what climate, what purpose? conduit to the hoist is ok, in the end overhead was a little slower but got it exact. The service entrance, the door locations and design are a couple most critical, height cant get away from. You got a lot of money or want it all for nothing?

 

[Busted Knucles]

Plug outlets every 6 inches or so apart...., oh and 3 way switches at each door for the lights.

 

[jethro29]

plenty of outlets on every wall ,220 in atleast one location . outside storage area for compressor, led not halogen lights .bathroom, sink with hot and cold water .

 

[sberry]

I saw some university designs for farm shops a while back and I can tell the guy really never worked in one. Let alone dozens. Had you waking thru tools and all the welding grinding grit every time the building was entered. Forces all the foot traffic in to an isle for not knowing enough to put all the **** along the walls.
Shops are for people, to get around and work on cars and graph paper with a 3 ft ruler don't get it. If it wont break the start is the place to get all you can afford, you can fix other stuff later. Like no substitute for horse power none for square ft and having the building and doors oriented the right way. Often the front is in the back and the back in the front.
I seen a beauty a while back and the couple big regrets they had was didn't get the floor pour for the hoist right and while it was located somewhat fine they didn't account for wet **** and they already needed a steamer and paint bay.
Those are nice but most home brews don't have the space so it all needs to count. A couple minor features could allow for painting without booth that hogged space and not used but on occasion, besides all that **** gets old after a couple years and you want to do other things usually to stuff you really need to do which is maintain cars and living equipment.
Climate and location is a lot. I live in a wet dirty rugged worls and being able to clean, warm and dry is everything. I don't need cad tools, I use a pressure washer and a wire welder and a few hand tools, as few as I can on most days.
As for good ideas, a couple modest island fixed benches with electric on them with shelves under and some overhang to clamp to. Hose reel I can reach for the air and some lights on swinging booms right over the benches. Nite light so I can move without switching up local lights as needed or when I get there. A wash sink in convenient place, a urinal and a potty, a shower not so much. An office in the front, enter the shop, then the office with coffee maker and micro, fridge, desk, book shelf. TV

 

[lkempf]

Build it exactly like you want from the beginning. One it's built it won't get done later examples: insulation, more lights, water source.

 

[ngiovas]

How big, what climate, what purpose? conduit to the hoist is ok, in the end overhead was a little slower but got it exact. The service entrance, the door locations and design are a couple most critical, height cant get away from. You got a lot of money or want it all for nothing?

Will be building in Michigan - cold climate. Want to have heat available, but will most likely only heat it when I am working in it. For cooling, probably will only have overhead fans. Plan to use it to work on cars, store cars, tractor, ATVs and other off road vehicles, trailers.

Also, want to have an area for woodshop and metal shop. Haven't finalized size - will really come down to price. Looking at 14' or 16' ceilings. If I can pull it off, would love to go 60x80. In reality, may have to go smaller. Smallest I will likely go is 40x60, but if I go that route, will likely do a lean-to on one or both sides for trailer storage. If I make it bigger to start with, it is easy to build out rooms and add toys later. Not as easy to expand.

 

[sberry]

Zone heat in the floor, drain or 2 for drying and warm parking during in climate weather. Don't have to be hot but 50, well above freeze and if I had a wish list overhead infrared in a choice spot for paint heating and drying.
I could build this in quite a little less than I have mine in making it easier to heat and cool. Build storage for storage and keep the shop limited to doing what it does and move it thru it.

 

[sberry]

Ok. I was in and wired a 50x60 a while back and it was nice, it could have used a bit of design improvement, some was good and some needed work. It needed the walk door moved and this ****** apt which was a good idea was not well executed. But,,, the fundamental size, shape and big door location was good. The possibility for a hoist was good but the guy needs storage already, started out filling it with boats and a motor home. At this point not a real deal but if I was gonna really move in this place would come up with another shed asap.

 

[sberry]

60x80 is roomy. You could subdivide for heat. Heat is like sanctuary, once its inside its safe. In fact could sundivide and sub really. 45 degrees is better than freezing, 50 is bearable and 55 or 60 is workwise but cost goes up. The upside of some heat is simply nothing is as good to keep all your **** in and keep it in service or safe. It don't got to be hot but not good to let paint freeze, dont have to fussy drain some stuff, **** in the car doesn't freeze and cars don't build ice.
I have built in hi pressure washer and cut ice off outside and park in during bitter weather, will take the time to wash, park back in and keep my plow and work truck in. If its bitter out there is a big difference starting out dry, thawed at 50 degrees vs 10. Same parking can be converted to paint. Make a fan could shove in the rear walk door and a curtain for paint.

 

[ngiovas]

I should mention that I am currently working in a 3 1/2 car garage with 10.5' ceilings. I planned everything out to maximize the space, but after 18 years of using it, moving equipment around (even on roller bases) is a major pain in the rear. It was a great starting point and allowed me to take on some great projects, but long term, I don't want to do that anymore.

My woodshop will definitely be in its own enclosed space. My current shop has a really nice dust collection system with rigid ducts to collect the dust and I also have a whole shop dust filter hanging from the ceiling. Doesn't matter - still end up with wood dust on things throughout the shop. Not good when you are working on cars that are nearing completion.

I have heard great things about radiant floor heating. I have never looked into the cost. I am worried that it will be really expensive. On the other hand, it may make sense since my alternatives will likely be to heat with propane or electricity. How long does it take to heat up the space using radiant floor heating vs forced air or other option?

 

[Skyking1992]

I built a 40'x50' about 120' feet from the house.

I put in a small bath with toilet and sink. So glad I did and would never be without one.

The ceiling is 12'. In hindsight, I could have done scissor truss and had a higher ceiling. I don't have a motorhome, but when I sell, that might have been a selling point.

I did spend a lot of time and money on a high priced floor epoxy. I love that - so easy to mop up oil or other spills. No hot tire pull ups to date. Very happy and would do it again.

Hope that helps a little.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Will be building in Michigan - cold climate.

Spend the money and install foam board under the concrete. If you use two layers, tapping and staggering the joints you won't need a vapor barrier.

I am guessing you will have a 36"-48" footer. After the footer is poured and the forms removed, make sure the inside of that footer gets 2" of foam board also.

If the foam board is out of the budget then you MUST use a vapor barrier.

 

[GTFiero]

Plugs every 6' on staggered circuits. Three way switches for lights. Insulated garage doors for work areas. Couple of 220v outlets(compressor and lift). 24' deep apron out front so you can park a truck on it and walk around and unload without gettin off the cement, also great for washing vehicles. Make all man doors 36" wide. Have an out side facet or two, or a no freeze hydrant facet. Vapor barrier under cement prior to the pour. Wire mesh in floor. 6" cement under lift post. Floor drains to outside for vehicle work, or no drain for woodworking. LED area lighting (4000K, easy on the eyes, yet bright). Metal rodent guard at the bottom of your steel exterior if you use steel.

Did them all here on the 30x60', 12'wall, 24x30 shop, 36x30 storage area. Also did 2" foam under shop floor except where lift is and 4' x2" foam board around shop slab exterior.

 

[ghlkal]

members can provide info on what they would do differently if they could build their garage again

I have two floor drains. "Next time," I would slope the floor toward the doors and have grates and a channel drain.

 

[rburke65]

In my shop I don’t have any floor drains. Floor is level n flat. I don’t wash cars in the shop. It’s a shop. Plenty of lights. Bigger outlet boxes than are required. Keep your larger hungry equipment close as you can to your breaker panel. I like my 12’ wide OH garage doors. I like my ‘high lift track’ ....I have 13’ plus ceilings. Fixed widows up high...8’ to the bottom of the sills. Natural light. The grade door....man door....that I can see from the house. Just a few

 

[gtae07]

Pour a pad in front of the large doors when the slab is poured.
Plan the minisplit lineset better so there’s not a big service loop on the back wall.
More lighting.
Grind and paint the floor before moving in
Buy most of the lumber as I go instead of one big delivery (I had a lot go bad)
Build a lean to shed on the back for the yard tools.
Compressor enclosure
Bigger attic space
Have a yard about 4 feet wider so I could back my truck right up to the doors
Run ethernet
Run water (sewer is out of the question)
Omit the window
Bigger electrical boxes


Things I’d do again:
Insulation and air conditioning
Outlets every 4feet on staggered circuits
2x6 framing
True 50A outlet (run 6/3 to a 14/50) and not an undersized welder-only circuit

 

[nzjkb5]

For a one-man hobby shop, what is the purpose of having outlets on staggered circuits?

 

[isb cornbinder]

If I had "it" to do over again, I would be a better person to my first wife. She was a very nice person. I was a total cheating dumb ***-hat jerk. I think an apology could be a nice jeature, but, I have not seen her since 1971. I hope she has mostly forgotten about me. I would not like to refresh her memory of me, if it has faded.

 

[FANTM58]

Depending on where you live and the climate,, insulate and install the interior sheeting
Wall finish before moving in. For obvious reasons .....

 

[sweetk30]

guy who built my place years ago did 2 major things wrong .

ZERO insulation = in north east this is stupid for heat bills .

and no water line to the shop . he had trench open for 100amp service and cable and phone but never did water cold line .

 

[Maineiacmoose]

Don't move in until you have closed the walls up and sealed the floor.

 

[MushCreek]

Money was (and still is) the biggest factor when I built my barn. It's pretty modest compared to a lot of you guys (28 x 48, 12' ceiling + loft), but I'm retired now and my needs and ambitions aren't what they used to be.

I built my barn as cheap as possible, so it's just sheathed in T1-11. Looks nice, but it's hard to properly add doors and windows. If I had the budget, I'd have used sheathing, then put siding over it.

I really wish I had put insulation under the slab. During warm, humid weather after a cold snap, it sweats like crazy. Turns out that that happens a lot in our SC climate.

I had originally planned to put a few courses of block above the slab, then wood framing. Too much money at the time, but now I wish I had done it.

I'm just finishing up the wiring. Adequate 120v, 240 V as needed, and a circuit of 3 phase from my rotary phase converter to run the machine shop tools. I finally put an outdoor outlet (I use a battery charger a lot on my old tractor), and power in the loft area for lighting and a lift powered by a 120V winch.

My loft is 28 X 32, with 8' headroom. It is strictly storage, and I built the floor deck stout enough to store a lot of **** up there. My goal for the rest of my days is to weed out the excess ****. Wish me luck! The lift is a 2 x 4' platform that lowers down through the loft floor. There is no guide system; I just have a rope tied to it to keep it aligned. It works fine, and takes up zero floor space downstairs when not in use. I only use it a few times a year when I'm putting stuff up there, or taking it down.

I'm eventually going to insulate and do interior sheathing; probably painted OSB. It will never be an energy-efficient building, but I'm hoping to be able to take the chill off. I have big sliding doors (12 x 12 opening), so it's pretty hard to seal it up. I could seal up the opening for the winter, but I park my daily driver (Miata) in the barn, so I need to be able to open and close the doors easily. I hadn't planned on that, but I'm not going to leave a well-preserved 27 y/o convertible out in the weather.

My lighting is cheap 4' LED units from ebay. They put out plenty of cheap light, but I need to figure out how to improve the light-to-light connections, as they keep going out. If I go up there and wiggle them, they work fine, so it's just the connectors. I need to take them down anyhow, as I need to insulate the ceiling, and then I'm going to put up white metal for a ceiling.

 

[skippydoo]

If I did it again, I wouldn't use "friends" .

 

[matt_i]

So far,

Successes: concrete prep and placement, having a remote wifi router, 9 windows

Do-Overs: larger attic opening, go to 7:12 roof pitch to get more attic headroom and walk upright down the center.

Biggest Fail: moving "stuff" into the space before it was fully finished.

 

[Skunkape]

Don't move in until you have closed the walls up and sealed the floor.

This. a 1000 times over.

 

[colt24]

Use jack shaft garage door openers .

 

[kuhner]

No windows, makes it more secure.
Some provision for removable floor tie downs, makes pulling things in easier.
I have sink, toilet and shower. Don’t know if the shower is worth it, hardly use it.
Heat if you live in cold climate, or air conditioning if a hot climate. Insulate, don’t skimp on this.
We use the garage for family get together often. Plan your outlets if this is something you do. Those roasters and crock pots draw a bunch of power.
WiFi, TV, outside lighting, outside water, outside air.

 

[Yankeefarmer]

I’m currently planning a new garage/workshop build, and plan to do all my electrical as surface mounted conduit instead of Romex inside the walls. Over the last 30+ years in my existing building, I have made changes due to new or relocated machinery. Having wiring behind Sheetrock and insulation is too limiting for my tastes.

 

[ddurrett896]

I’m currently planning a new garage/workshop build, and plan to do all my electrical as surface mounted conduit instead of Romex inside the walls. Over the last 30+ years in my existing building, I have made changes due to new or relocated machinery. Having wiring behind Sheetrock and insulation is too limiting for my tastes.

Why not bury the wire and do surface mount on anything new?

 

[Scott91370]

Make it bigger than you think you need. Mine is small at 20x24 (2 car size) and I wish I would have gone no smaller than 24x30.
By the time you get tools and shelves in you'll lose a lot of space.
I have plenty of outlets, but this is a good one to remember. I have two on the side walls and two on the front wall. Then 4 on the back wall at the bench. Each wall is a different circuit.
Run air lines, or make sure you have plans for this.

 

[Yankeefarmer]

Why not bury the wire and do surface mount on anything new?

Two reasons:

If I want to add a receptacle or other device, I don’t want to have to break into the sheetrock or run a new circuit all the way from the panel.

If I am penetrating the wall for any reason, I don’t want to have to worry that I will penetrate a wire or cable.

The same thinking applies to air lines. It’s a shop. I want it functional and easy to adapt to new equipment.

 

[aventino68]

I'm assuming in the past everyone plumbed in compressed air to everywhere in the workshop whereas now it's mainly cordless tools for everything with a bank of battery chargers.

 

[Robby321]

Nothing. Did what I did, some "that didn't work as planned, but a good 80% did the right thing! But...(and no regrets)

 

[dw1]

I did a 30x50x12' I wish I would have went a little higher, maybe 14', I would love to have a mezzanine for more storage. I have 2-10' tall O/H Doors, one with a jackshaft opener, I have a 200 amp electrical service and water inside the barn with a bathroom, washtub and shower, all in all, I like it, but bigger- I can fill it up, no problem

 

[rburke65]

I would have moved the header for my in floor heat to the other end of my shop where the breaker panel is located, and hence closer for my le trick boiler!

 

[Mr onetwo]

wider,deeper,higher Also 2 smaller doors instead of 1 9' x 16' and alot more insulation

 

[keith204]

Use walls.