What would you do?

[peciam]

Hello to all,

I'll try to explain using the short version:


I built a garage about 12 years ago, 24 by 26 with a bonus room above the garage. I bought a package from a lumber company(Curtis Lumber) and I changed a few things (2 x 6 walls) 2 x 8 and 2 x 10 trusses. I have been traveling for some time(Military), I now have time and money to finish the garage.

Question:

Trussess are 24" o.c., stairs to bonus room were never put in. I want to do stairs. I have 109 inches from garage floor to upstairs bonus room. So I figured a 7.25 rise and a 10.25 tread depth. I built a platform 29" up and want to turn to go up between trusses, that way I only have to remove one truss. Problem is my head room going up three stairs to platform before I turn is not 80 inches for code, only 72 inches. In short I have a L for the stairs. Should I remove two trusses to get head room support or what? I hope this made some sense. Garage will never be inspected, although if I ever sell some day, no plans to do that in the near future though.

Thanks to all that reply,

Pecaim

 

[reinhardt]

i am utterly clueless as to what you're trying to say, and wouldnt be able to offer any worthwhile suggestions. BUT, i would highly recommend it be built to code. anywho, carry on.

ben

 

[lametec]

Well, if your options are to remove trusses or live with 72" clearance, the answer is obvious. Bumping your head isn't going to cause the roof to cave in, removing trusses might.

 

[christopizza]

I'm looking at a garage package with a bonus room right now.

It looks like for the stair opening on the back gable end - you double up the roof truss at the truss 4ft off the gable end and then place structure between the two to support the floor and the roof.

That gives a 4 foot open space to put the stairs in.

Depending on the level of finishing done to the garage, it may still be doable.

Chris

 

[Mike in Ohio]

I would build it the way you want to. I would if I were you try to put in a straight stairway if possible. Those 90 degree turns can be a hassle to get anything big up to the second floor. If it is not going to be inspected I wouldn't worry about it. I would concentrate on getting the truss setup right.

 

[MN4x4]

1. Trusses are 24" o.c., stairs to bonus room were never put in. I want to do stairs.

2. I have 109 inches from garage floor to upstairs bonus room. So I figured a 7.25 rise and a 10.25 tread depth.

3. I built a platform 29" up and want to turn to go up between trusses, that way I only have to remove one truss.

4. Problem is my head room going up three stairs to platform before I turn is not 80 inches for code, only 72 inches. In short I have a L for the stairs.

5. Should I remove two trusses to get head room support or what? I hope this made some sense. Garage will never be inspected, although if I ever sell some day, no plans to do that in the near future though.

Pecaim

Just going through this on my shop re-do. To meet code:

1. Your stairs must be 36" wide measured from the inside face of one wall to the other.

2. Your riser is fine, but your run should be 9" (or 9-1/4") with a one inch 'lip'. Your tread would still be 10" (or 10-1/4").

3. Your platform must be a minimum of 36" x 36"

4. You actually have two problems here:

First, you can't "go up between the trusses" since they are only 24" OC,.
Second, (as you stated) you need 80" for headroom. Sometimes you can get a little bit creative here by shaving a corner or something, but you need to be pretty close to 80".

5. I doubt that you can remove even one truss and still have proper support for the roof and all loads, BUT you might be able to slide one truss over next to another and sister them up with nails or bolts. You would then run a support member (probably 2x4 or 2x6) from one sistered truss to another, or to the gable frame, as I'm guessing your stairs run up against a wall. This solution would need to be engineered by a truss company to guarantee code compliance

A picture or drawing would help a bunch, BTW!

 

[Sharps]

This is what I did. 11 inch treads, 1 inch overhang, 7.5 inch rise, 36 inch wide, handrail, 90 degree turn with three steps in the turn then finish then required number of steps. You really need the headroom if you want to put anything upstairs and the width is essential, per code. If anything ever happens on your stairs because of a construction flaw, you could be held liable and homeowners insurance will most likely cancel on you due to the violation of the building code. HTH

My garage build thread: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49785

 

[little d]

peciam, can ya drop back to one step then landing? this is going to push the leading edge of your stringers into your shop but should give ya the head room your needing. like mn4/4 said when ya cut the tread cut it 9 1/4 and you will end up with a inch bull nose on your tread.

 

[irishtom]

Can you put in a straight run stair? No landing. Then you won't have the headroom issue at the landing.

BTW, re: MN4's comments, the dimensions noted in codes are not absolutes. The code riser height (usually 7 or 7 1/4") is a maximum, you can do less, but not a fraction over. The tread depth (usually 10 or 11" nose to nose.) is a minimum, you can go longer. a 7 1/4" x 9" rise to run stair is pretty steep and outright scary for some people.

Not sure where you are, so I don't know which code you're using. But I'd verify any dimensions with the local building officials. Especially if your intent is to meet code.

 

[MN4x4]

Irishtom is right about checking local codes. However, I disagree with his numbers. I find most places allow risers up to 7.5", but some allow up to 8". 10" is the code minimum for a tread (and 9" for the run) in most places, but it can be longer.

To prevent the stairs from being too steep or too gradual (see Figure 4), there is a relationship or proportion between the stair rise and the stair run. An old adage says that for older people the ideal stair rise is 6" with a stair run of 12". An intermediate stair rise is 7" and the stair run is 11". Notice that in each case the stair run plus the stair rise equals 18". This is the simplest way of determining stair rise and stair run but the size of each stair is totally up to you as long as they are within Building Code ranges.

A common stair run and stair rise for a dwelling based on a 92 1/4" stud, 3-1 1/2" plates, 2x10 floor joists and 5/8" subfloor used to be 14 rises of 7 5/8" and 13 runs of 10 1/2" with a 1" stair nosing. While still acceptable in some areas, most places will now limit you to less than 7 1/2" on the rise, or maybe even less as Tom stated.

There are three generally accepted ways for calculating the "ideal" stair rise to stair run ratio:

The sum of two stair risers and one stair tread is 25" (The Rule of 25, most common around where I live)

The sum of one stair riser and one stair tread should be 17" to 18"
The stair rise times the stair run should be between 70" and 80".

Do a google search to find out more, or email me.

 

[jdaallen]

I would (and did) go with a steel spiral stair case. I took up a lot less floor space and looks cool.