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What's on your walls? Neat storage ideas!

Andy Griffith

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Sep 2, 2009
Messages
1,367
Location
Western WA
I have more vertical space in my shop than horizontal space so I made this steel storage rack. I generally buy the steel in 20' lengths and cut it in two when I get it home. The rack can hold 10' lengths and clear most everything above. The shelves on the backside hold smaller pieces.

Because of limited space in the shop my general rule is to put everything on wheels/casters that can be done safely. Took a bit of experimenting to find the right angle that would hold the steel securely and not make the rack tip prone. As it turned out, when the rack is unloaded I am unable to tip it over even when hanging my big **** off the back, and of course when the rack is loaded it is even more stable. I put two pieces of chain on the back near the top with the idea that I could fasten them to the wall which may provide 'some' stability in the event of an earthquake.

62688463_aNti6-L.jpg


62688472_TZarb-L.jpg
 
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Daniel Dudley

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Sep 4, 2009
Messages
3,546
Hey, nobody's tighter with his cash than me. I paid $62 for the cabinet on the left, and $147.50 for the one on the right. I guess Grainger would have charged me $4,724 for the pair (and who knows how much more for shipping). But I don't have that kind of money.

I waited through about 50 auctions on ebay before I snagged those two at those prices. Typically, they go for three or four hundred bucks used. They're great cabinets, but they're only cabinets, you know?

And all my cabinetry up above the steel units was built by yours truly:

12Gauge+011265136383.jpg


If it weren't for used, re-purposed or home-made, I wouldn't have a garage at all. :)



After looking at the pictures in the Makeover magazine, I have to say I do like the ''Garage Beauty Two'' version better. It looks incredibly sleek.

Don't get me wrong though. I was very fond of the first version as well.
 

69supercj

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2010
Messages
555
My only, semi unique, storage ideas.

BMW wheel used to store the air hose.
HPIM2501.jpg


Brilliant !!! :drool:

I have been refusing to pay the price for a hose reel. You have opened my eyes to the ultimate solution!!! :bowdown:

If you wanted to get really fancy, find an old spindle that would fit that wheel and mount the spindle to the wall and the wheel to the spindle. Then fab a handle to the rim of the wheel and now you have the coolest manual hose roller in town.!!:beer:
 

jmh21586

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Joined
Aug 8, 2009
Messages
1,895
Location
Pine City, MN
Built a cabinet for spray paints. Thinking I should've built it a little bigger. Had more cans than I thought. Amazing how much I had in every nook and cranny. A cabinet like this might actually save me money. Won't be buying paint that I already have.

4367812547_36a0f56747_b.jpg

4367829531_70bd27ab7a_b.jpg
 

Mattlt

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2005
Messages
1,382
Location
MN
Built a cabinet for spray paints. Thinking I should've built it a little bigger. Had more cans than I thought. Amazing how much I had in every nook and cranny. A cabinet like this might actually save me money. Won't be buying paint that I already have.

Gosh, and you could easily put a lock on that thing to prevent access from "little hands."

Very good idea. :bowdown:
 

Crash913

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Joined
Mar 4, 2010
Messages
173
Location
Ohio
Built a cabinet for spray paints. Thinking I should've built it a little bigger. Had more cans than I thought. Amazing how much I had in every nook and cranny. A cabinet like this might actually save me money. Won't be buying paint that I already have.

Excellent idea! I have cans stashed everywhere. :thumbup:
 

Frank Elson

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Joined
Apr 12, 2008
Messages
1,375
Location
Lancashire, UK
I have more vertical space in my shop than horizontal space so I made this steel storage rack. I generally buy the steel in 20' lengths and cut it in two when I get it home. The rack can hold 10' lengths and clear most everything above. The shelves on the backside hold smaller pieces.

Because of limited space in the shop my general rule is to put everything on wheels/casters that can be done safely. Took a bit of experimenting to find the right angle that would hold the steel securely and not make the rack tip prone. As it turned out, when the rack is unloaded I am unable to tip it over even when hanging my big **** off the back, and of course when the rack is loaded it is even more stable. I put two pieces of chain on the back near the top with the idea that I could fasten them to the wall which may provide 'some' stability in the event of an earthquake.

Now there's an idea I just stole. Thanks Andy.
 

padstack

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Joined
Feb 25, 2010
Messages
246
I found this idea from the DIY channel a couple years or so back. It's pretty simple, easy to make, modular (If I think something would look better somewhere else, I move it with no new holes, etc), and CHEAP. I stained them for some crazy reason and then added more that wasn't. Now I have to stain some more... Here are the pics:

<a href="http://s966.photobucket.com/albums/ae141/padstack/?action=view&current=IMG_0231.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae141/padstack/IMG_0231.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s966.photobucket.com/albums/ae141/padstack/?action=view&current=IMG_0232.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae141/padstack/IMG_0232.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

The first one shows how I have it set up on my walls. The next one is more of a close up. I can then mount whatever I want on the individual "blocks". I can also make shelves by putting a pc of angle iron on the back of a flat pc, and then putting shelving brackets with a plywood spacer on the bottome of the bracket to make it sit flush. This has worked REALLY well for me. If anyone wants more details, let me know. I think I have a total of about $80 in EVERYTHING including plywood, stain, hooks, etc.
 

GregN

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Joined
May 26, 2009
Messages
129
Location
Rogers, MN
padstack-

I am very interested in "Borrowing" your design for use in my garage. How are the individual parts attached? What was done to the strips on the wall (The void behind them)? What materials were used? Sorry for the Newbie questions, but that is what I am. Thanks.
 

padstack

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Joined
Feb 25, 2010
Messages
246
No problem at all. After looking at them again, the pics weren't the best. The long strips that are mounted on the wall are 3/4" plywood with 1/4" plywood behind it. I think I modified the original plans a bit to give me piece of mind. I think the 3/4" is 3 1/2" strips and the 1/4" is 2". I beveled the top of the 3/4" strips. I then ran a bead of liquid nails and screwed them together wiht 1/2" coarse drywall screws. When that dried, I found where the studs would be on the strips, countersunk some holes and used 3 1/2" coarse drywall screws to attach to the wall.

For the "blocks" that hang on it, I used 5" squares (not that 5" wide was needed, but I'm quasi OCD and felt it looked better as a square than rectangle...) of the 3/4" and 1"x5" strips of 3/4" behind that (the part that rests on the wall-mounted rails). Behind that is a pc of 1/8" thick 2" metal stock that I cut about 4" long, slightly countersunk, and then screwed to the back of the 1"x5" 3/4" strips to make a "hook" for the back of the rails. The trick here is that you need to screw the 1" strips to the top of the 5" square block and then drill your holes in the metal stock in different locations so the screws don't hit each other. Then, I bought those packs of screw in hooks, screwed them into the blocks and hung them up! I'll try to get a better pic later of the wall that has the weedeater, shovels, etc (all the longer stuff) holding everything up. I'll get better pics of the shelves too.

What I really liked about this was #1 how "modular" it is. I'm never stuck with something where I don't want it due to location. #2 was price. Seriously. It was crazy cheap and took about a day (way shorter if you don't stain it like my "brilliant" idea...). A table saw is a must for this though since you want repeated cuts of the same length. Not saying you cant do it wiht a circular saw, but I can't!

I think it "looks" cleaner too.
 

GregN

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Joined
May 26, 2009
Messages
129
Location
Rogers, MN
Thank you very much. I can't wait to see the other pics. I just need to talk the little lady into the need for a table saw. She says that I can always just borrow one, but what is the fun in that?

Thanks again, I really appreciate it.

Greg
 

TEXACMAN

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Joined
Feb 6, 2006
Messages
284
Location
Mount Pleasant Texas
Anyone have any ideas on how to store heavy chains? I need a way to hang up my chains and booms I use when I haul heavy equipment , right now they are in a unmovable bucket:headscrat!
 

timewarp

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Joined
Feb 24, 2008
Messages
272
Location
Silverdale, WA
I store my heavy chains and binders by hanging them from large nails on one section of wall. That way I can grab whatever length I need easily.
 

mk2dk

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Joined
Aug 6, 2009
Messages
49
Location
Denmark
Built a cabinet for spray paints. Thinking I should've built it a little bigger. Had more cans than I thought. Amazing how much I had in every nook and cranny. A cabinet like this might actually save me money. Won't be buying paint that I already have.



4367829531_70bd27ab7a_b.jpg

This is a brilliant idea. My sprays are on a shelf. Each time I take 1 of them, 3 other seems to tip over and fall down. If it's all right by you I'll copy this cabinet
 

jmh21586

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Joined
Aug 8, 2009
Messages
1,895
Location
Pine City, MN
Go ahead. Just build it bigger than you think you'll need. Once you start gathering up all your cans that you have everywhere, you'll be amazed at how many you have. I know I was. Don't forget to post pics.
 

twarren

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Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Messages
160
Location
Roseneath, Ontario Canada
Hey Andy Griffith. This is a wonderful idea for a steel rack and one I am goint to copy soon. Any chance of getting us a couple of measurments and angles. Well, angles mostly.

Thanks in advance.

Warren..............
 
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PassnThru

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Joined
Jan 5, 2010
Messages
6,510
Location
Bowling Green KY
Any ideas/solutions for storing gallon paint cans?

You'll notice that the entire cabinet is framed from 2X4s. Build it a little bigger on the 'back' with say 2X12s (I'm not going to go out to the garage to measure a gallon paint can) and put the same 2X4 doors on the front. Then you have gallon storage and rattle can storage.
 

mdbeck1

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Joined
Mar 7, 2010
Messages
2,297
Location
Norman, OK
i made up some cheap air operated cylinders to "pop up" ghosts out of a big jack in the box, and an old storage trunk took a piece of 1 1/2 PVC pipe 30" long, fitted a rubber sink stopper to slide in it, then mounted the stopper to the end of another piece of 1" PVC, slid them together, drilled and tap 1/4" pipe thread in the bottom of the outer pipe and connected an air line from there to an old washing machine water valve solenoid from the other side of the solenoid through a regulator to the compressor
rigged up the ghost with a couple of bungee cords to keep it from flying apart and to return it into the box
made up a simple electrical box with a couple of outlets and switches to turn the solenoids on and off from around the side of the house.
scared the **** out of several people with this set up one year at halloween.

found most of my ideas on the 'net, searched "halloween props" and found tons of info

:beer:

Can you make up some simple diagrams. I'm having a hard time visualizing this.
 

mdbeck1

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Joined
Mar 7, 2010
Messages
2,297
Location
Norman, OK
Actually slightly off the wall but may be of interest to any woodworkers out there. Pipe clamps are a pain to store. I had an unused space between my garage doors so I took a piece of L shaped steel and bolted it to the flag brackets between the doors. Karma said it would be a good idea because I actually had a piece the exact width laying around - and the holes lined up. I added a few strips of electrical tape across the top to add a little cushion and friction. The top clamp has enough play against the pipe to cause it to kick back against the wall.
View media item 3372View media item 3373The nice part is it isn't mounted to the wall - if I need to move it later there are no holes to patch.

Looks like a smart use of space.

I guess you don't have earthquakes in Kentucky but in SoCal I'd suggest you put a couple of eyelets so you could put a bungee cord across the clamps. In an earthquake those would come down and smack your cars.

You don't need the eye hooks. Just get some bungee cords that fit in the predrilled angle iron....

just my $0.02...
 

R1chy

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Sep 3, 2007
Messages
232
Location
Fairfax, VA
You don't need the eye hooks. Just get some bungee cords that fit in the predrilled angle iron....just my $0.02...

An alternative storage suggestion for your pipe clamps - I made a simple "L" bracket and clamp down on it to hold them in place (see photo below).

As you can see mine hang down since they are not long, but if your pipes are long and you can't reach the top to clamp them down, then turn them upside down with the extra pipe extending above the bracket. To secure them in place you could build another "L" bracket for the top, with holes in the bracket to feed the extra pipe up through - kind of like a Pool Cue holder.

Since space is a premium in my small shop, I also use the underside of a shelf above my work bench to store my other clamps.

R1chy
 

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TEXACMAN

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Feb 6, 2006
Messages
284
Location
Mount Pleasant Texas
I store my heavy chains and binders by hanging them from large nails on one section of wall. That way I can grab whatever length I need easily.
Thanks timewarp! I am thinking of a wallrack with some kind of hooks or pegs to hang the different sections of chain maybe?? I am probably thinking too hard about it..
 

mdbeck1

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Location
Norman, OK
I store my heavy chains and binders by hanging them from large nails on one section of wall. That way I can grab whatever length I need easily.

Thanks timewarp! I am thinking of a wallrack with some kind of hooks or pegs to hang the different sections of chain maybe?? I am probably thinking too hard about it..

Dad's garage didn't have sheetrock on the walls (when I was a kid) so I put a piece of steel rod across one section (with nails on the end) and hung the chains from it. Then I added some "S" hooks made from stiff wire to hook the center of the chain off of the ground. You could also use a piece of flat or angle iron.
 

crewchief888

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Dec 3, 2009
Messages
13,736
Location
NW indiana
Can you make up some simple diagrams. I'm having a hard time visualizing this.

heres a pic of the large ghost prop. the ghost is mounted to a 2x4 connected to the piston "rod".

search for homemade halloween props. the only thing i had to buy was the "piston" i used for the cylinder, it's a rubber sink stopper. everything else i found laying around. the control box was made from an old cabinet drawer, with a couple of outlets wired to wall switches.

the box was 30" square, 4 1/2' tall, made from heavy cardboard stapled to a 1x2 frame sorry no pics of the box or electrical, they're stored up the rafters in the garage.

:evil:

:beer:
 

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padstack

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Feb 25, 2010
Messages
246
Thank you very much. I can't wait to see the other pics. I just need to talk the little lady into the need for a table saw. She says that I can always just borrow one, but what is the fun in that?

Thanks again, I really appreciate it.

Greg

Here are some better pics of one of the shelves:
<a href="http://s966.photobucket.com/albums/ae141/padstack/?action=view&current=IMG_0236.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae141/padstack/IMG_0236.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

The shelf is basically a pc of plywood (about 14"x24", I think) on 2 13" shelf brackets. You can just see the angle iron that is screwed to the shelf part that also hooks into the rails to hold it up. Since the bottom of the brackets don't have much to "brace" against, you have to build up something to screw to the bottom of those. on these braces, there was one hole already, but I drilled another one and screwed a second screw in to keep it from twisting. That pc of wood is the same thickness as the rails (3/4" + 1/4"). I have a LOT of weight on there (probably 50 lbs or so) and have no issue at all.

Here are the pics of the high rail with all the brooms, shovels, weed eater, etc hung up:

<a href="http://s966.photobucket.com/albums/ae141/padstack/?action=view&current=IMG_0235.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae141/padstack/IMG_0235.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s966.photobucket.com/albums/ae141/padstack/?action=view&current=IMG_0234.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae141/padstack/IMG_0234.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

I also have one of those weed eaters with all the attachments. TO hang the attachments, I cut some pcs of PVC that had a close inside diameter to the OD of the attachment shaft. Then I drilles a 3/8" hole for the "button" (that you push to detach the attachment) to fit in. Then I drilled a hole all the way through at the top that was offset 90degrees and run a pc of wire through that and make a loop. I then hang that on the hook.
 

DaleJR88Fan

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Joined
Feb 3, 2010
Messages
73
Location
North East, Indiana
I have more vertical space in my shop than horizontal space so I made this steel storage rack. I generally buy the steel in 20' lengths and cut it in two when I get it home. The rack can hold 10' lengths and clear most everything above. The shelves on the backside hold smaller pieces.

Because of limited space in the shop my general rule is to put everything on wheels/casters that can be done safely. Took a bit of experimenting to find the right angle that would hold the steel securely and not make the rack tip prone. As it turned out, when the rack is unloaded I am unable to tip it over even when hanging my big **** off the back, and of course when the rack is loaded it is even more stable. I put two pieces of chain on the back near the top with the idea that I could fasten them to the wall which may provide 'some' stability in the event of an earthquake.

Can you post some more specifics about your ingenious rack? Dimensions, maybe a rough drawing, height of each shelf, angle of long pieces, material used to make the rack, etc. I would like to make one for my metal working addiction.
 

GregN

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Joined
May 26, 2009
Messages
129
Location
Rogers, MN
padstack-

Thank you very much for the additional photos. I think I will be stealing your idea after I get a tool or two to actually make them. I would love to get a table saw, but it isn't in the budget right now, so maybe a guide for my circular saw. Thanks again for the pics.
 

padstack

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Joined
Feb 25, 2010
Messages
246
padstack-

Thank you very much for the additional photos. I think I will be stealing your idea after I get a tool or two to actually make them. I would love to get a table saw, but it isn't in the budget right now, so maybe a guide for my circular saw. Thanks again for the pics.

If nothing else, clamp a GOOD 2x4 for a straight edge and follow that with the circular saw.
 

Andy Griffith

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Joined
Sep 2, 2009
Messages
1,367
Location
Western WA
Sorry for the delay on this, life has been a bit busy lately. There is a rough sketch and additional pictures of the steel storage rack at this link.
http://jacksonii.smugmug.com/Other/Steel-Rack/1329455_uhnFN#62688463_aNti6

I came across this concept in an industrial supply magazine and took the overall LxWxH dimensions listed in the catalog and just kind of built the rack around them. The rack in the catalog did not have casters on it, it was designed to sit flat on the floor.

You will see in the pictures that my original design had a shorter base, which was taken off the industrial rack dimensions. I was concerned about how stable the rack would be, particularly in regards to tipping over backwards when fully loaded.

Typically I will tack something together and test it before finish weld, but in this case I was concerned about fully loading the rack with steel while it was only tacked together. So I went ahead and finished welded the rack. The original base seemed relatively stable but I'm a bit paranoid about heavy things tipping over and I could get the original design to tip up a bit if it was loaded with 10-12' long sticks and I really hung my weight off it. So I decided to extend the base length which is why you see the angle pieces added on and gusseted in the pictures.

In retrospect the rack is probably way over-built for the amount of steel it holds.

Hope this helps.
 

rmousir

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2009
Messages
116
This is one thing I could share. Seen something similar on here. I got the idea from Handyman magazine.

Enjoy and thanks for sharing your ideas folks.
 

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s_ontario

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Jan 5, 2006
Messages
552
Location
canada
simple to put together top ring is 2.5" pipe bottom ring is 5" ABS pipe plus a cottage cheese container
 

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