I'm building a 2x6 load bearing wall. I have already cut, drilled, and bolted down a pressure treated 2x8 bottom plate to block with 1/2" anchor bolts. The bottom sill will be one block height above the slab surface. I plan to remove the bottom plate and assemble my wall unit on the flat dirt floor. It will measure 8 ft high by 32 ft long. Can I apply the exterior osb before setting the wall? What would be the pros and cons?
When to apply osb
- Thread starter wliggett
- Start date
p_mori7
Well-known member
It will be a heavy SOB if sheeted on the floor. Might as well wrap it with tyvek at the same time if you decide to go ahead.
I built my long wall in 3 sections and sheeted it after it was raised to make it easier on me & my Dad.
I built my long wall in 3 sections and sheeted it after it was raised to make it easier on me & my Dad.
davedriveschevys
Well-known member
If you have the manpower, build it lying down.
But you will not be able to set the long walls on the dirt, they will be on the block at the ends and bottom.
You need to snap a line on the PT where the inside edge of your bottom plate will rest when the wall is stood up. Toenail your bottom plate to this line before you sheath about every 4 feet with 8d nails, it straitens the wall and acts as a pivot when the wall is stood up.
After you have the wall framed and tacked to the line, pull diagonal measurements to square it up. Then snap a line on the face of the studs for your first run of sheathing, leave some sheathing hanging down to tie the wall to the PT sill. I usually leave 2" down, which will lap onto your block about 1/2".
But you will not be able to set the long walls on the dirt, they will be on the block at the ends and bottom.
You need to snap a line on the PT where the inside edge of your bottom plate will rest when the wall is stood up. Toenail your bottom plate to this line before you sheath about every 4 feet with 8d nails, it straitens the wall and acts as a pivot when the wall is stood up.
After you have the wall framed and tacked to the line, pull diagonal measurements to square it up. Then snap a line on the face of the studs for your first run of sheathing, leave some sheathing hanging down to tie the wall to the PT sill. I usually leave 2" down, which will lap onto your block about 1/2".
If I'm reading your post correctly Dave, I think you missed that he already has the PT sill bolted down.
wliggett, sheeting it depends if you have the manpower. Unless you sheet it prior to raising it or put in a double bottom plate, you won't raise the wall in one entire section. When I built the house garage, I built the walls in 10' section as I was doing it myself. I squared the wall section and nailed down one piece of OSB. That one sheet kept the wall from racking as I stood it up.
wliggett, sheeting it depends if you have the manpower. Unless you sheet it prior to raising it or put in a double bottom plate, you won't raise the wall in one entire section. When I built the house garage, I built the walls in 10' section as I was doing it myself. I squared the wall section and nailed down one piece of OSB. That one sheet kept the wall from racking as I stood it up.
PeterT
Well-known member
I agree, if you try and assemble the osb to the studded wall on the ground, it will be a heavy sob to lift.
Falcon67
Well-known member
If you sheet it on the ground and anything is the least bit out of square, it'll give you hell. 32' is only 8 sheets of OSB per side - I'd stand the wall then sheet it. Get the first sheet plumb and the rest go up quick. 8 sheets of OSB on both sides will add about 880 lbs to the wall assembly.
If you are sure all it square and plumb where the wall will land, you might could just do one sheet on each end of the wall to hold it all square during the raising.
If you are sure all it square and plumb where the wall will land, you might could just do one sheet on each end of the wall to hold it all square during the raising.
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TheShrine
Well-known member
TEXAS wisdom...well said!
ryaninmichigan
Banned
- Joined
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The proper way is to sheet and then lift.
shovelhead91701
Well-known member
I disagree...... As with most things there are one hundred ways to do any job and any one of them is "proper". When we were still framing homes we would presheet in some instances for inability to access after walls were stood and sometimes to ensure square and plumb we would sheet after the walls were up. Both ways are proper, you just need to decide which you wish to use for your particular application as well as how much man power or machinery you have available.
ishiboo
Well-known member
I'm with Falcon.
(Caveat: Just last week I had to move 100 sheets of 1/2 OSB from one end of my barn to the other, so I am sensitive to the weight of OSB
)I build with local Habitat crew every Saturday. First day of a build the walls are delivered as pre-framed sections. Outside walls come with one sheet of OSB installed already from our framing shop. This is done with walls sections on a jig so they are Square. The OSB is intended to keep them square during transport and standing. Some get multiple sheets but that makes them much heavier. I like one.
Some replys indicate you could have a problem if you don't get the wall section good and square before you stand them. We have problems standing good square walls when there is irregularity in the slab. If you let the wall follow an irregular floor you transfer the wave to the top of the wall, with or without any OSB, because you framed the wall with all the studs pre-cut one length.
If you confirm your slab is even and flat, and you start standing walls from one end corner you should not have issues with one OSB panel(s) pre-installed on the outside of one very square wall. Verify top and bottom wall plates are exactly the same and that they both touch when standing the wall. Even small gaps multiply and change the dimension of your final wall section. Bad. If wall sills or plates don't meet, we nail blocks on and use pipe clamps to pull the sections tight before Hilti and nailing. 32 flavors and everyone has a favorite. They all work, more or less.
Some replys indicate you could have a problem if you don't get the wall section good and square before you stand them. We have problems standing good square walls when there is irregularity in the slab. If you let the wall follow an irregular floor you transfer the wave to the top of the wall, with or without any OSB, because you framed the wall with all the studs pre-cut one length.
If you confirm your slab is even and flat, and you start standing walls from one end corner you should not have issues with one OSB panel(s) pre-installed on the outside of one very square wall. Verify top and bottom wall plates are exactly the same and that they both touch when standing the wall. Even small gaps multiply and change the dimension of your final wall section. Bad. If wall sills or plates don't meet, we nail blocks on and use pipe clamps to pull the sections tight before Hilti and nailing. 32 flavors and everyone has a favorite. They all work, more or less.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
You can sheet it while on the slab. But before you do, sit down with a pencil and some paper and figure out the stud location and build the wall in three sections. You can build them in 12' sections, 10' sections, or even 4 8' sections. But you want to make sure that you have the correct stud spacing (16") and have the sheeting from one section to overlap over to the next section to tie the sections together. Nothing wrong with having two studs side by side, but you want to overlap for strength. When I do it that way, I make sure I overlap to the stud that is 16" away from the end. Doing it this way will allow you to do most of the erecting by yourself.
Ideally though, if you want to do it on the ground, you can frame the wall, sheet it, then have a few bud's over to help you stand the wall or sections up. No way would I (me) attempt to do a complete 32' wall, but two 16' sections wouldn't be too bad.
Ideally though, if you want to do it on the ground, you can frame the wall, sheet it, then have a few bud's over to help you stand the wall or sections up. No way would I (me) attempt to do a complete 32' wall, but two 16' sections wouldn't be too bad.
davedriveschevys
Well-known member
No I read that, I was assuming the addition of a 2x6 or 2x4 (depending on wall thickness)bottom plate. The method I described is one of many. But its the one that assures a square straight wall before its stood up.
When I framed my shop 32x32 with 16 foot walls I bolted down my bottom plate and toenailed the studs down to the plate. Then I placed the first run of plywood on the bottom to hold the studs while I placed the top plates on.
After I had all 4 walls framed with the first run of plywood on and the top plates laced together, i finished sheathing.
Wasnt the quickest way, but I framed all the walls by myself. Called in all my favors from friends for the roof.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
He's got the bottom plate bolted down but he's going to unbolt it when he builds his walls.
When I built my family room addition, I rolled the dice. It was a rainy day so I framed the walls in the garage and had the OSB on them. Windows and doors also framed in and cut out. The next night when I got off work, a buddy stopped and we had the walls up in an hour. Not bad for a 24' x 24' room.
I just reread this. Doing all of this on a dirt floor may cause a little trouble. If it isn't exactly flat, you're going to have bows and bends in the wall. I think I would wait to sheet it AFTER the wall was up. That way you can plumb and square it, and brace it, then get the sheeting on
oldmerc
Well-known member
Apply OSB ext sheathing first , It is the best way to keep the wall square .
You're right, I'm on the same page as you. I missed what Keving is talking about below. I missed part about the OP removing the bottom plate when he builds the wall.
Yes, my mistake.
