which abrasive material?

[that-guy]

I am doing a resto-mod Radio Flyer Wagon for my son and want to media blast it to bare metal to I can fix any imperfections and body work it. what is the preferred abrasive material for this job, be it glass beads, walnut shells, baking soda, etc?

also, for anybody else wondering the same kind of questions, what is each type of material meant to be used on?

 

[sberry]

I don't blast with anything but sand but,,,,,,,, for pitted rust its soft fine sand and for paint you need hard coarse to cut paint. Soft is super slow.

 

[that-guy]

I don't blast with anything but sand but,,,,,,,, for pitted rust its soft fine sand and for paint you need hard coarse to cut paint. Soft is super slow.

the wagon still has the original paint from the 70's (I got one of the older ones with the thick gauge steel) and I notice some small pin holes around one of the corners and want to have nothing left in the end but the good solid metal...so you're saying that I should use coarse sand to take off any and all coatings that are on top of the bare metal?

 

[that-guy]

I've played around with the idea of chemical stripping, but I've used it in the past and would rather find a different option as it is just a nasty process

 

[sberry]

I have been using the finest coarse they have,,, ha, the ideal is hard to strip paint and soft to clean rust. I have dumped 2 grades in the blaster but that's likely not an option. At home I might try a wire wheel and some sandpaper.
I have blasted, used epoxy primer, sand a little and apply filler over that and it really seals well. Again, options are limited for diy and I can say this,,,
Find something easy, do it so it gets done, while it will have sentimental value it has already been neglected reasonable resources dedicated to this to make it practical.
It can be good to practice a skill set which you can get near the same results without expensive blasting which will deteriorate as much as it helps.
Sand and wheel, prime, sand, body work, sand and prime again.

 

[sberry]

There isn't anything that a knotted wheel in a hand held 4 1/2 wont fit on a tub. If you do not have this it is the first tool you should add. Buy the one from Walmart.
There are a lot of attachments and types of brushes, I might be tempted to find a variable one for some wheels but they sand, they flap they cut and they grind. They are cheap to run.

 

[sberry]

My Bud just painted a tractor, he could have done better body work and could again although it adds a little character. We didn't even prime it. It doesn't look bad and if we were to sand it off again and zip another coat over it, finish the hood it would look real decent.
The secret weapon of the diy is some sandpaper and a box of purple scotchbrite, learn to love stock colors so its easy, get a couple bombs and in a couple colors I like or need a gallon of each, some thinner and a cheap spray gun, some sponge brushes.

 

[sberry]

I been doing this a long time, this is the way I do it and I could have the latest greatest which I would have if I specialized. Most home types need to keep the hazardous processes to a minimum. You should rightly investigate some paint system you can live with,,,, then,,,, do the wagon as easy as you can as well as the rest of the stuff you may own.
I am a farmer, I run old equipment, not everything I own gets a fresh coat but the fact I can paint a piece where it makes sense differentiates mine from some competitors. My general maintenance is better but stuff the same age looks newer to the point most don't give it a second thought.
I don't always invest this effort in to cars however, I do it with long life items, model equipment that should be the correct color with the rubber parts masked off to the point unless one looked wouldn't consider it wasn't factory paint.
I will shift5 non sensitive brands to a fak pak color in most cases.

 

[dodge610]

If you have the room get yourself a bead blast cabinet. Used new or build your own I have a TP tools skat blast cabinet. Best investment I ever made use glass beads or or a mix of course and soft blasting media. Never use silica sand to blast it will get into your lungs. That will get you to the point were you will restore a whole lot of things. Then you can move on to cheap primer gun and color gun to finish the restoration.

 

[twertsy]

I pretty much exclusively use aluminum oxide in the cabinet, and sand outside.

 

[dodge610]

I pretty much exclusively use aluminum oxide in the cabinet, and sand outside.

Yes sir aluminum oxide is also a good choice. Use to use it in mine all the time but where I was getting it from closed so only get it when I go on a road trip to TP tools. So have to use it sparingly cause TP tools is couple hours away not economical for me. Med grit black beauty is good also For rust work course sems to plug the gun up.

 

[that-guy]

I live on a large piece of property, and have picked up a standard blast gun with a hopper, so I intend on just putting it beside or behind my garage to blast it and everything will just accumulate in the yard...and if I just use sand or soda, both are environmentally friendly...if I sift play sand, would that take off all of the paint to get me to bare steel?

 

[astroracer]

If you have a local TSC (Tractor Supply Co.) Pick up a couple of bags of Black Diamond. This is a slag based material, it's cheap, and it will remove the rust and paint very quickly.
Mark

 

[that-guy]

If you have a local TSC (Tractor Supply Co.) Pick up a couple of bags of Black Diamond. This is a slag based material, it's cheap, and it will remove the rust and paint very quickly.
Mark

would that be something safe for me to just let accumulate in the yard?

 

[sberry]

I blast outside but back to the sand. Play sand is soft, good on rust, slow on paint.
This is the essense of blast work so I am going back again,,,,, soft for rust and coarse for paint. You need a hard sharp media for paint. We have a sand plant near here but its called superblast, not sure what else in the bagged world would qualify, I spose the Black Diamond is it.

 

[sberry]

Put a bag of black into remove paint and then play sand to do rust. This will be a good learning curve.

 

[sgs236]

For projects that will not fit in my blast cabinet, I use an Eastwood Media Blaster with Lowes play sand. The play sand I have to dry it in the oven before I can use it. It also needs to be sieved, as it contains a lot of small rocks. I use tarps to cover the driveway and after each use , I sweep up the sand and reuse it. The sand gets softer after each use, so start with the painted areas first and save the rusted parts for later. I can get about 3-4 uses out of a bag of play sand before it gets to soft to cut. The key thing when using sand is to use a good respirator like the 3M 6500.

 

[astroracer]

would that be something safe for me to just let accumulate in the yard?

Yes, it's no different then sand and it will not hurt the yard. This stuff will do the job, both on the rust AND the paint all at the same time. No reason to change out for media for one or the other. It's around 7 dollars a bag around here.
Mark

 

[dodge610]

Play sand I have had zero luck with. Black Diamond I have used that and had fairly good luck with it in my cabinet. I always have to get med. grit or it plugs the gun up. with a sand blaster you can probably go with course grit.

 

[Finky198]

Yeah blast media can work well if you have the compressor, space, and broom

But when it comes to cleaning metal some time an angle grinder with some serious elbow grease is the best solution Little to no set up very little mess and quick and painless with the proper safety gear Metal prep regardless of the method used can be time consuming but it's worth the extra time and effort for quality results

I just refurbed a steel table at work 6' long sat out side for 15 years someone drill though the table about 20 times with a 1/2 bit but it was free Guy told me to take it for scrap

Stripped the table with wire wheels took a full day, then welded all the holes shut primed with rusty metal primer dried over night and just painted it yesterday 1 coat of industrial yellow 2nd coat to follow then a few of clear and I now have a fancy new steel table

 

[Jagmandave]

Finky must be from Australia!

Our blast cabinet at school uses glass from ground up bottles or something, really cheap and leaves one hell of a tooth for paint. We use to use glass bead which leaves a fantastically smooth but porous surface perfect for paint, but the media has gotten expensive.

If you're going to work outside sand is fine, just wear a good respirator. I think the finer sized sand works better.

It all takes a lot of air tho, a 20 gallon home style compressor will give you about 2 minutes of blast at a time before you have to stop and let it recover. Wear long sleeves and cover your head and face, that stuff really stings when it bounces off the part and hits you!

 

[that-guy]

Yes, it's no different then sand and it will not hurt the yard. This stuff will do the job, both on the rust AND the paint all at the same time. No reason to change out for media for one or the other. It's around 7 dollars a bag around here.
Mark

that's the answer I am looking for. thank you sir

 

[Monkey Milk]

If that play sand is anything like beach sand DO NOT USE IT. It's harmful to your lungs!
Black diamond is good but on thin metal with a good pressure settings it will warp metal. Aluminum oxide is very fine and will do a good job but very slow. Use a garnet glass bead "pink sand" for best results. Wont etch like black diamond and faster then aluminum oxide without warp-age. Blast on some tarp against a wall or something to catch the garnet, filter and reuse.

Or just use one of those guns that recirculate the media in the tip on the heavy spots and wire brush or use 3m paint stripper pad.

 

[Finky198]

I'm from the states what made you think I'm an Aussie

 

[dodge610]

If that play sand is anything like beach sand DO NOT USE IT. It's harmful to your lungs!
Black diamond is good but on thin metal with a good pressure settings it will warp metal. Aluminum oxide is very fine and will do a good job but very slow. Use a garnet glass bead "pink sand" for best results. Wont etch like black diamond and faster then aluminum oxide without warp-age. Blast on some tarp against a wall or something to catch the garnet, filter and reuse.

Or just use one of those guns that recirculate the media in the tip on the heavy spots and wire brush or use 3m paint stripper pad.

What is this pink sand you speak of can you only get it in Hawaii. never heard of it but would like to try it. Probably spelled your state wrong sorry.

 

[Jagmandave]

I'm from the states what made you think I'm an Aussie

Your pics are upside down!

 

[Finky198]

i posted them from my phone LOL

 

[Monkey Milk]

What is this pink sand you speak of can you only get it in Hawaii. never heard of it but would like to try it. Probably spelled your state wrong sorry.

The correct term is GARNET sandblasting media, or "pink sand" at out local sandblaster outlet.

 

[dodge610]

The correct term is GARNET sandblasting media, or "pink sand" at out local sandblaster outlet.

Thanks Monkey Milk I will check the local suppliers and see if I can get my hands on a bag or two.

 

[Monkey Milk]

And the other stuff if your interested. The gun is on the lower side but good for spot blasting and not leaving a mess. the 3m pads are highly recommended but can be costly. They also make it for drills if you don't have a grinder. But it works in a different orientation[1-2in]. Available at Walmart. I assume your trying to do this on a low budget?

 

[dodge610]

No I have a beadblast and powdercoat bussiness. Just never heard of pinksand allready found it and will be going to get a couple 50# boxes of it. I have used glass beads and alum.oxide walnut shells black beauty but never garnet. But I have a couple jobscoming in that Garnet should work out on.

 

[that-guy]

so I know what media to use, any recommendations on a cheap blast gun? was looking at the one from HF, also a syphon model I see from Tractor Supply...any input would be appreciated

 

[dodge610]

so I know what media to use, any recommendations on a cheap blast gun? was looking at the one from HF, also a syphon model I see from Tractor Supply...any input would be appreciated

Try to stay away from siphon In my opinion pressure fed gun is the way to go but just my opinion I have all pressure fed equipment.

 

[astroracer]

If you aren't going to be doing this as a profession and all you plan to do is hobby type blasting the siphon feed guns will work just fine. Get The HF gun and go blast your wagon... Just get it primered right away so it doesn't flash rust. A blasted surface will rust immediately with ANY humidity in the air.
Mark

 

[sberry]

Our blast cabinet at school uses glass from ground up bottles or something, really cheap and leaves one hell of a tooth for paint.

I am going to elaborate on this for a minute. While an etch is important there is a grit spec for the primers and generally a sharp etch is too much for relatively thin primers. It lays down in the valleys but the spikes poke thru the top and it tends to rust in a hurry.
Sandblast a piece and run your hand over it, very ruff and you can see **** poking thru after a prime if you look. Second there is dust and dirt from the media smacked against the surface. Not only is the purple Scotchbrite good for ghetto prep work but wipe it across any blasted metal and feel the difference and see the dirt moved, then blast off with air and paint. We scuff any blasted surface.

 

[sberry]

Just get it primered right away so it doesn't flash rust. A blasted surface will rust immediately with ANY humidity in the air.

Yes this is true but its not as super big a deal as its made out to be, surface roughness and dirt being a bigger player.

 

[that-guy]

If you aren't going to be doing this as a profession and all you plan to do is hobby type blasting the siphon feed guns will work just fine. Get The HF gun and go blast your wagon... Just get it primered right away so it doesn't flash rust. A blasted surface will rust immediately with ANY humidity in the air.
Mark

this one, or a siphon type?

http://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-hopper-gravity-feed-spot-blaster-gun-95793.html

I see some reviews from various places saying it is junk, and others that it works great

 

[plinker]

Garnet abrasive is good stuff. I have used crushed glass and it works very well for paint & rust removal.

 

[sberry]

A cheap pressure pot isn't all that much more than a junk siphon gun.

 

[sberry]

Tha HF thing in the link is junk, its for blasting a spot about the sire of a quarter,,, ha