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Which socket set to carry in car.

tomalophicon

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Hi crew,
I've been carrying a very large 1/2" drive socket set around in my truck for about 15 years. It's at least 30 years old and the plastic tray is smashed to bits and all the sockets and accessories are rattling around in the metal box.
It's a mixture of metric and SAE but I only require metric for this particular vehicle.

I've managed to score a very nice all metric socket set, which is still comprehensive enough for every nut and bolt on the vehicle but it's in a 3/8" drive size. The largest fasteners are 24mm which are for the diffs, transfer case and gearbox drain plugs.

I usually use the 1/2" handle for wheel nuts which require around 110nm (about 80ft/lb).

What would you experts recommend? Continue carrying the big old 1/2" set or replace with the sleek 3/8" set for roadside repairs and do-all kit?

Cheers,
Tom.
 
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sbyrne92

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Your use case may be dependent on the age of vehicle. But all I keep a 1/4 ratchet kit, multi bit screwdriver, 1/2” breaker with the lug nut size attached, and my
Leatherman. My feeling is if you need to do a roadside repair you ought to tow it home.
 

CGarage

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Hi crew,
I've been carrying a very large 1/2" drive socket set around in my truck for about 15 years. It's at least 30 years old and the plastic tray is smashed to bits and all the sockets and accessories are rattling around in the metal box.
It's a mixture of metric and SAE but I only require metric for this particular vehicle.

I've managed to score a very nice all metric socket set, which is still comprehensive enough for every nut and bolt on the vehicle but it's in a 3/8" drive size. The largest fasteners are 24mm which are for the diffs, transfer case and gearbox drain plugs.

I usually use the 1/2" handle for wheel nuts which require around 110nm (about 80ft/lb).

What would you experts recommend? Continue carrying the big old 1/2" set or replace with the sleek 3/8" set for roadside repairs and do-all kit?

Cheers,
Tom.



It depends on where you operate the vehicle and what you expect will need repair while in the field.

Carrying around a set that covers every bit and bolt on the truck is dumb unless you are operating remotely without support in the bush/outback.

What are the local resources in your area and what level of service will you need to achieve independently?
 
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tomalophicon

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It depends on where you operate the vehicle and what you expect will need repair while in the field.

Carrying around a set that covers every bit and bolt on the truck is dumb unless you are operating remotely without support in the bush/outback.

What are the local resources in your area and what level of service will you need to achieve independently?

Lots of time spent in the bush for small periods of time - 3-5 days - lots of 4wd tracks and often towing a trailer. Usually alone but sometimes with another vehicle.
 
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tomalophicon

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Australia
Your use case may be dependent on the age of vehicle. But all I keep a 1/4 ratchet kit, multi bit screwdriver, 1/2” breaker with the lug nut size attached, and my
Leatherman. My feeling is if you need to do a roadside repair you ought to tow it home.

I like the idea of a breaker with a socket attached. Thanks.
 

kctyphoon

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I keep the 1/2” extending ratchet from HF (collapses to save room over a breaker bar) and flip socket lugnut set in the car. (Never know, you may need it for someone else’s car)
3/8” drive is the commonly used. Age of vehicle and environment should dictate what to really carry. Are most people realistically gonna do anything more than a jump/battery and fix a flat on the side of the road? Maybe a hose..

I mean, if your off in the friggin Outback hundreds of miles from life - then yea, fill up as much room as you can spare with tools..
 

M6erfan

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Lots of time spent in the bush for small periods of time - 3-5 days - lots of 4wd tracks and often towing a trailer. Usually alone but sometimes with another vehicle.

Carry whichever tools/sizes your vehicle requires, no need for more. Also, from the sound of it, Some Qwiksteel type epoxy, duct tape, silicone tape, and bailing wire would be good.
 

LOW1

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ontario
I have a kobalt 3/8 and a kobalt 1/4 in my truck. I use the 1/4 set a lot especially the numerous driver bits that came with it. Most use involves rental properties we have but other things always seem to come up. I would go with the 1/4 set if you only can have one set
 

Robinson1

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I drive around in a full blown service truck most days so I'm not really the one to answer this question.

I will point out that unless you are carrying spare parts or are lucky enough to break down in front of a parts store you're not going to be doing a great deal of work roadside.

I'd say a basic socket set plus a breaker bar and socket to fit your lugs. Small set of wrenches, couple pairs of pliers, 6 in 1 screwdriver, roll of electrical tape, maybe a couple hose clamps, short roll of wire, a few fuses and maybe some spare bulbs would be more than enough to carry for a breakdown kit for 99% of people.

The most important thing you can carry are jumper cables and a good flashlight.

To answer your question directly if you are carrying a giant 1/2" drive set strictly incase you break down then yeah I'd ditch it for a smaller more compact 3/8" set
 
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Professional Tool User

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It really depends on what you want to be able to do with the set. I personally would want to be able to change a flat tire, jump a dead or slightly depleted battery, replace blown fuses and broken hose clamps, check my battery and alternator, and repair any wires chewed up by rodents. My list would include -

4 way lug nut wrench
3/8 dr long flex head ratchet
3/8 dr 8-19 mm shallow socket set
3/8 dr 8-19 mm wrench set
multibit screwdriver
Slip joint, needle nose, side cutters, tongue and groove pliers, and combination cutter/stripper/crimper
lighter
jumper cables
power bank jump starter
flashlight
multimeter
spare fuses, wire, hose clamps, and heat shrink connectors
 

MACbox

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Dec 28, 2018
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Location
TX
I have an older Craftsman set much like this cheap set:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...rd-6-8-point-both-socket-set/ub5066tw/4772757

The nylon case keeps everything from rattling, and you can also put a couple of pliers in there and some fuses and extra wrenches and what not..

Throw in an extra 3” extension or two, too...

Throw a breaker bar, and a selection of 1/2” drive sockets that will fit most truck/trailer lug nuts and stuff that large, and you’re pretty much set.
 
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DFB

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I carry the HF 37 pc impact set covers most everything I need for general use. I also have the composite ratchet and a Mid Torque impact wrench I'm pretty good with that if I need something

Doesn't do 24mm you have to have a separate socket if u be pulling those drain plugs out OTR though :dunno:
 

richfinn

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Leeds, Yorkshire, England
1/2 drive breaker bar and socket for wheel changes

Good quality Jack and some plyboard for soft ground

Rechargeable head light

A soft faced hammer

Jump leads

Bulbs/fuses/fluids

Test light/ratchet screwdriver/pliers
 

yrly

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I carry jumper cables, a socket set of some sort, screwdrivers/bit set if socket set doesn’t have one, something to remove lug nuts.
 

f121

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Take the 3/8 set, 1/2" breaker bar with lug socket, and an adapter so you can put 3/8 sockets on the breaker bar.
 
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matt_i

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Is there a penalty for carrying both sets? Can the SAE-inch sockets be useful on a trailer or someone else's vehicle?

I think what I would do if I were the O.P. would be to carry the full 3/8" metric set and then split out all of the metric sockets out of the 1/2" set with appropriate long-handled ratchet. 3 lengths of extension would also be on my list. As would a 1/4" inch-metric set for little stuff. Worst problem would be making up a custom organizer, I'd use wood slats or sheetmetal. You could probably shave off and 1/2" drives lower than 17mm or 19mm in my thinking.
 

giants

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OP mentioned the sockets were loose in the original container.

How do others secure sockets, eg socket rails or magnetic bars?

I'm looking for socket rails, but the ones I tried hold the sockets too tightly.
 

Shane6377

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.
OP mentioned the sockets were loose in the original container.



How do others secure sockets, eg socket rails or magnetic bars?



I'm looking for socket rails, but the ones I tried hold the sockets too tightly.



I used the metal socket rails and riveted them in place in a shallow toolbox.


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Elvie84

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BrisVegas/Australia
I would find a socket rail and put what sockets you need on there plus some other bits and pieces in a handy tool bag.

But yeah keep using the 1/2 wouldn’t be using the 3/8 in no hurry.
 

JJ-Az

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This is what I carry, saved me a few times. 1/4 and 3/8 set, includes adapters for use with regular sockets. It is a ratcheting socket set but also works like an offset ratcheting wrench set.

Craftsman 9-29309 Max Axess 51 pc socket set

I might swap it out for the Universal set, which has spline sockets, for any bolt/nut.

It has a lower profile (socket + ratchet), lower than a low profile ratchet with shallow socket. I've used it in tight spaces where my other ratchets wont fit.

There is also a 1/2 inch Max Axess set.

Gearwrench makes a similar set.
 

giants

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This is what I carry, saved me a few times. 1/4 and 3/8 set, includes adapters for use with regular sockets. It is a ratcheting socket set but also works like an offset ratcheting wrench set.

Craftsman 9-29309 Max Axess 51 pc socket set

I might swap it out for the Universal set, which has spline sockets, for any bolt/nut.

It has a lower profile (socket + ratchet), lower than a low profile ratchet with shallow socket. I've used it in tight spaces where my other ratchets wont fit.

There is also a 1/2 inch Max Axess set.

Gearwrench makes a similar set.

Thanks

I've read another thread on the Max Axess, pass-through socket sets. No one said that they offered a particular advantage in auto repair, except perhaps in the rare case of having a nut at the base of a long thread or a ratcheting wrench.

So did you find them uniquely beneficial for roadside repairs (how so?), or just having a ratchet/socket set was enough?
 
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Tireman

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I carry a ratchet and a 10mm socket. I can never seem to find it though.


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Lassen Forge

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I had a basic tool set in a 50 cal. ammo can, socket wise I had a set of (then metric) in a small bag (10-21mm) a ratchet handle and a set of stubby combo wrenches. I had a cheater pipe if I needed leverage (I ended up adding a cut down breaker bar) and a 3# hammer with a 5" pipe and lugnut welded to the end of it for a handle. An assortment of screwdrivers, the biggest pair od channellocks I could fit, a couple vise grips (regular and needle nose), another bag with "precision" stuff (feeler gauges, ignition wrenches, points file, etc.) and I don't remember what else... but what I had was enough to almost rebuild whatever I was riding or driving.

Whatever you get, do not get the "all emcompassing set" that costs $19.95. Spend a little money and get something that will not break the first or second time you need it. Because it's when you're stranded in the middle of nowhere that that "quality" ratchet will s#!t the internals. Don't ask me how I know.
 

Downwindtracker 2

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We drove form Perth to Darwin in a Navarro 'ute , I didn't see too many auto parts stores on the way. Here in North America, I've done repairs in auto parts parking lots and in camp grounds. The 1/2 is handy on tyres and suspensions, but for most cars 3/8 is all you need.

I always travel with a good pair of linesman's pliers and concrete rebar tie wire.
 

giants

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We drove form Perth to Darwin in a Navarro 'ute , I didn't see too many auto parts stores on the way. Here in North America, I've done repairs in auto parts parking lots and in camp grounds. The 1/2 is handy on tyres and suspensions, but for most cars 3/8 is all you need.

I always travel with a good pair of linesman's pliers and concrete rebar tie wire.

Thanks. I'm still learning about tools. How do the linesman's pliers and concrete rebar tie wire help?
 

Downwindtracker 2

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There isn't much you can't make or put back together. You need good pliers to really pull it tight and twist ends. The best for that are the pliers iron workers use, they have a pivot point on the head. Since the company I use to work for supplied 8" high leverage New England style that electricians use, so that's what I use. But the rodbusters type work better.
 

giants

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There isn't much you can't make or put back together. You need good pliers to really pull it tight and twist ends. The best for that are the pliers iron workers use, they have a pivot point on the head. Since the company I use to work for supplied 8" high leverage New England style that electricians use, so that's what I use. But the rodbusters type work better.

Thanks. The only brand I found was Knipex. Can you recommend alternative, cheaper brands?
 

Downwindtracker 2

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Mine are Channelocs . At work we had Knipex cutters as well. They chipped out almost as frequently as the Channeloc pliers on the high carbon wire we made. Sparkys and rodbusters use Kliens BTW.

The German style pump pliers like Knipex are easily worth the money over the Channelocs style, but I don't think that holds true for pliers.
 

giants

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Mine are Channelocs . At work we had Knipex cutters as well. They chipped out almost as frequently as the Channeloc pliers on the high carbon wire we made. Sparkys and rodbusters use Kliens BTW.

The German style pump pliers like Knipex are easily worth the money over the Channelocs style, but I don't think that holds true for pliers.

Meaning, do you recommend the Kniper linesman pliers, or not?

Thanks
 

Downwindtracker 2

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I wouldn't spend Knipex money on linesman pliers unless I worked with them daily. Channelocs are good quality.
 

JJ-Az

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Thanks

I've read another thread on the Max Axess, pass-through socket sets. No one said that they offered a particular advantage in auto repair, except perhaps in the rare case of having a nut at the base of a long thread or a ratcheting wrench.

So did you find them uniquely beneficial for roadside repairs (how so?), or just having a ratchet/socket set was enough?


The lower profile help me with removing the nut from the engine mount of a 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix, the mount and nut is recessed into the frame and there is a tight fit for regular ratchet, when you remove the nut, the ratchet lifts up and gets pinned between the nut and the engine mount bracket.

It includes at 5.5mm on the 1/4 inch set. I used it on something once, but I remember the odd size of 5.5mm.

Battery replacement. 3/4 inch socket worked well to remove the side mount terminal, I had an extended battery terminal and the socket fit perfectly, passing over the end and onto the terminal.

Strut/Shock replacement, the 1/4 ratchet will hold the end while the 3/8 ratchet would turn the nut to tighten/loosen.

The case is small and slim, fits under the seat easily, has a lot of sockets. I've put some force on the 3/8 ratchet and it broke the nut loose. The handle is comfortable, oval shaped, you need a custom or large cheater bar to fit around the handle.
 
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tomalophicon

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Thanks everyone.
I've decided to pare down the 1/2" set and put the metric sockets on rails, and find a smaller plastic or fabric case for them and chuck them back under the seat.

I did buy the 3/8" set anyway which will stay in the shed.

Tom.
 
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