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Which tool to remove corroded garden hose?

Bennylava

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Apr 17, 2012
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Cleburne, TX
Hi all. I am having the usual difficulty with getting a water hose to detach from the spigot. Just the standard stuff on the outside of any house. The part you tighten down (name?) on the hose, has apparently corroded to the spigot. It looks to me like the part on the hose, is made of some kind of aluminum. I should've known better to leave that thing on there, this seems to happen every time.

But with a struggle, I've always been able to get them loose. Not this time. This time it's like I'm going to rip the spigot off the house if I keep it up. There's no concrete around the spigot, just a hole, which is something else that I'm unclear on how to fix. It's just sticking out of a hole in the brick. I sprayed some PB Blaster on there, cause it's all I've got here on hand at the house. Must've ran out of WD-40 at some point.

I was hoping someone else here had one stuck on and knows how to deal with this problem. From now on I think I'll be using the plastic ones.
 
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captain14

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Dec 19, 2012
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Near College Park Maryland 20740
Can you get two big adjustable wrenches on the spigot and garden hose? The last time I had an issue with a nozzle and Hose this is the method I used. Have you tried to tap with a hammer around the remark coupling or sparing a penetrating oil to soak?
 

Crabman

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Alexandria, VA/Dameron, MD
Two big channel locks, one to hold the bib, one to turn the hose.

Might be easier to get it loose if you cut the hose off (if you are not trying to save it) and spray the PB Blaster up into the threads.

Good luck, galvanic corrosion ***** for sure.
 

RTM

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May 13, 2019
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SF Bay Area
If it’s a round hose piece, channel locks on that end. If hex, as big a crescent as possible.

If not well fastened to the house, pipe wrench or something to keep that end from moving. Plan on replacing the hose end, and go crazy with torquing it off.
 

paulsomlo

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Northern Colorado
I know that you need to get a good grip on the hose end, but beware of gripping it so hard that you're actually inhibiting its removal.
 

Shiftless

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East Bay SFO
It just occurred to me that for hoses that rarely if ever get disconnected to move them, I will start putting some anti seize compound on the threads.
 

Parrothead

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Earth
Vise Grips - 10” with the curved jaw. Tighten them firmly on the hose part you can’t remove, but not so firmly you’re clamping it against the spigot. Use another pair of vise grips (or groove joint pliers) to hold the spigot while you get it lose.

Edit: The reason I say use vise grips is that you’re more prone to squeeze harder and fight yourself vs Vise Grips where you can apply a set pressure and focus on turning and freeing the hose.
 
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Chevy-SS

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Feb 11, 2010
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Rhode Island
If it's really corroded, then use a little bit of heat. Like one of those small hand-held butane torches. Obviously just a little bit of heat, applied carefully. Before I get my chops busted, I'm not saying to use a full size oxy-acetylene rig!!!!
 

BFBOB

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Two Channellocks, but FIRST, go around the hose fitting and crunch down on it (technical term) with the Channellocks all around in small increments several times. These connectors are pretty thin, and this will make it flex and break up the corroded material between it and the valve. Then try removal again, with (as others have said) open end wrench (or Crescent) if hex, pliers if just knurled.

Been there, done that. Last time I got it all apart, applauding myself and THEN noticed that the "no-freeze" valve had frozen and split open.

Good Luck!
 

Lassen Forge

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The romantic hills of central Umbria, Italy,
Hit it with Kroil and let it sit a bit before you reef on it with the channellocks, let it break the bond with the (deleted obsenity) Aluminum connector..

The ones we got recently have aluminum ends, so I've tanen to smearing them with Anti-sieze before I tighten them down... it seems to help a lot.
 

RKA

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NJ
I’m not advocating this, as I like the two channel lock method mentioned above. Add some penetrating oil and some heat and it should come loose. But when I first bought my house, the washing machine hose was rusted solid to bib. No room to fit anything appropriate for leverage, even less to counterhold the bib. I gave up and grabbed my dremel and cut the hose fitting perpendicular to the threads. I cut about 50-75% of the way through to minimize the damage to the threads on the bib, then used a screwdriver to pry open the cut and peel away the hose fitting. That’s when I saw just how much rust there was. It wasn’t going to unscrew no matter what I did.
 
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dnschmidt

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None of that typically works. What does work, at least it did when I had this problem, is using a cut off wheel in a Milwaukee Dremel type tool and cutting a slot into the other shell of the hose. This destroys that end of the hose but hoses are cheap and hiring a plumber to repair an outside faucet isn't. In my case, which is true for most houses in Arizona which are built as cheaply as possible, all of this is soldered together so if you **** up the hose bib it's a lot bigger deal than just unscrewing it and attaching another hose bib. If you get a little carried away it really doesn't matter too much as the hose is sealed by the end of the hose bib and not by the threads of the hose bib. I just barely nicked mine and it had no consequence.
 

wraptor

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Dec 31, 2009
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Hit it with Kroil and let it sit a bit before you reef on it with the channellocks, let it break the bond with the (deleted obsenity) Aluminum connector..

The ones we got recently have aluminum ends, so I've tanen to smearing them with Anti-sieze before I tighten them down... it seems to help a lot.

This is the solution, (KROIL)!
 

MikeF2316

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Thornhill, ON
I've always had luck with the 2 channellock method, but I've long since switched to plastic connectors. Bonus is they're cheaper too!
 

cderalow

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Nov 13, 2011
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Potomac, MD
This is a timely thread. I literally have the same freaking issue on my house.

Already hit it with the pb blaster. Was thinking of cutting the bib off and putting a new one on in its place. Same issue. Not attached to the house/ stub is long enough it bends the pipe when I try to remove the hose. Might take a Dremel or OMT to the fitting maybe big nut splitter.


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pbon

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May 14, 2017
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I went through it last fall. My dual outlet conversion part is now ruined but still stuck in the faucet. Will work on that this spring. Hoses are off, however, and still good.
 

JRC3

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Southwestern OH
None of that typically works. What does work, at least it did when I had this problem, is using a cut off wheel in a Milwaukee Dremel type tool and cutting a slot into the other shell of the hose. This destroys that end of the hose but hoses are cheap and hiring a plumber to repair an outside faucet isn't. In my case, which is true for most houses in Arizona which are built as cheaply as possible, all of this is soldered together so if you **** up the hose bib it's a lot bigger deal than just unscrewing it and attaching another hose bib. If you get a little carried away it really doesn't matter too much as the hose is sealed by the end of the hose bib and not by the threads of the hose bib. I just barely nicked mine and it had no consequence.
Yep. If you cut halfway through, then twist a big slotted screwdriver in the groove you created. It should snap. If not, use a hammer with the screwdriver.
 

gatlibs

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Always try to tighten when loosening is difficult. Sometimes it just magically works to release the seized fastener.
 

jimmyin3D

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Apr 15, 2016
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southbay, CA
I had the same problem when I moved into my new place. Two hoses were completely stuck/fused on the spigots on both sides of the backyard.

I tried using my knipex alligator but it wasn’t biting as hard, ended up using a knipex Swedish pattern type pipe wrench. Love these things, it grips like a vise and will not let go. It’s a joy using this tool. I only wish I found out about them earlier.

77d08638a4a5c51ca3ed55036f0d2703.jpg





——————————————————————-
Check out my for sale listing in the classifieds:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=438994
 

House Frau

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Jan 5, 2019
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Location
New Jersey
If you have the room to maneuver you can hack saw the hose connection carefully just enough to get through it without scoring the hose bib threads.
Any metal cutting blade will work fine, Dremel tool ideal for this project. Just go a little at a time patiently and once you are thru the aluminum it will come right off with any pliers. I’ve come up against this issue several times.
 

gotwheels

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Jan 2, 2011
Messages
120
Also make sure you are not fighting any hydraulic pressure in addition to the fitting tightness - that the hose is drained and open to the atmosphere.
 

64merc

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Jan 24, 2008
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Texas
I'm afraid you may have to cut off the hose fitting. You can try and muscle it off, but don't break your plumbing lol

I had this happen, but the end of the hose got stuck to a sprayer. I tried everything, and ended up cutting it off. I just cut a slit into the fitting and separated it enough to get it loose. You can use whatever you want...hack saw, dremel tool, etc.
 

driftpin

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Dec 22, 2016
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Miami-Dade/Broward Co. Florida
This is a timely thread. I literally have the same freaking issue on my house.

Already hit it with the pb blaster. Was thinking of cutting the bib off and putting a new one on in its place. Same issue. Not attached to the house/ stub is long enough it bends the pipe when I try to remove the hose. Might take a Dremel or OMT to the fitting maybe big nut splitter.

No nut splitter! Unless you want to pay a plumber to tear-apart your brick façade to solder-on a new hose bibb.

If it doesn't yield to the penetrant and a couple of pipe wrenches, use the Dremel & a cut-off wheel. Like others, I suspect that the bond is so-bad that it will need to be cut-off.
 

cherrybomb

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Oct 18, 2016
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Near Madison Wi.
I always recommend the two channel locks,what ever you do remember there's a joint in the house that you don't want to compromise my reefing on it.I have a union on mine,outside,so I can remove and get to a vise if I had to.A regular pipe connector works also,this is all for next time tho.So the dremel,very careful is a great ideal also.My neighbor always talks to his hoses in the spring,I'll keep my dremel handy.
 

PFSard

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Sep 12, 2013
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Mesa, AZ
Las time I had this issue I used a Dremel with a cut-ff wheel to carefully cut it off.
 

dacan23

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Apr 15, 2014
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RI
This thread brings back painful memories as I had this problem once on my current house. But its a problem I have never fully resolved. Hose with a hole was fused to an adapter. After struggling I found it easier to get the adapter off the spigot. Issue was I really needed that adapter, as the spigot was some impossible to find size and I dont think they make this adapter anymore, it reduces from 3/4 or 7/8 to 5/8 or whatever is standard. I finally got the hose and adapter separated but bent the adapter in the process. To this day I can not use the front spigot because I cant find a replacement adapter and I havent found the time to cut out the old spigot and replace with a new one.
 
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