Which track saw would you recommend?

[acer66]

Ya, I get it why someone might want to save some money. It's not about being a 'loyalist' (I guess that makes you feel better for saying it?)

The Instal-Rail is a blatant rip off of a 'little guy' manufacturer who came up with it. Also, I doubt if I will buy any more tools from ToolNut for blatantly promoting this product even after they were called out on it

https://festoolownersgroup.com/inde...;topic=new-guide-rail-square-made-in-canada.0

Thanks for posting that link and I am only half way through the posts which makes it sound to me it is not as black and white, like most stuff is, as it seemed at first.
Having said that I would most likely go with the TSO because the price difference is not big enough for me and its made here.

 

[Chevota Guy]

Was that on FB?

I don't use FB, I saw it on the FOG. I purchased mine before I even knew about TSO from a distributor in NY.

 

[Sage55]

I think my biggest issue overall is that the Mikata seems a bit under powered. Almost felt like I really had to push the saw through to get it to cut the plywood. In having to really push the saw it of course made the track move a couple times.

Sure the fix for that is to clamp the track. This would be easier if I had a nice large bench to place everything on and clamp the track. However, the selling point for the track saw for me was the fact I don't have a ton of space nor a huge work bench. So being able to lay some foam insulation board on the floor, then laying the plywood on it was a nice plus.

I can certainly still do this, but these are going to be rough cuts and not a finish cut if I'm going to have to shove the saw down the track.

All these issues are most likely MY issue and just need more time on the saw. The night of, I was ready to send the saw back. Instead I'm going to keep it and just keep working with it. In fact I'm planning on picking up some more 3/4" plywood this weekend and start building my work shop wall cabinets.

It's most likely a learning curve I need to learn. Or maybe I just need a better blade?! Anyways I'm not going to give up and will keep trying it.


On another note I do like the looks of that Insta-RailSquare and it looks like it would fit easily in my Mikata track saw case. Is the TSO square this small as well?

 

[RKA]

This is a tough one to assist you with over the interwebs. Like most cutting tools, let the tool do the work and just move the saw down the track. You shouldn't have to "force it" so much that the track is shifting, even if it is not clamped (notable exceptions are prefinished surfaces, melamine and anything else slippery). In my experience with other Makita tools, they generally give you good quality carbide tipped blades, so I doubt that's your issue. And make sure the saw speed is turned up all the way for wood.

Two suggestions: play with the gibs that adjust the saw to the width of the protruding slot on the top of the rail. You want it just snug enough that there is no side to side play, but not enough to create resistance when you push it down the track. Second, it never hurts to put a coat of wax on the base of the saw and the surface of the track. I don't need to do this with my Festool but I do with the Mafell as the fit is more snug. This is not a solution for your issue, it's just something you might consider once you've resolved your issue.

If you can't resolve it, based on what you're describing, I would try to exchange it for another one.

Edit: The TSO square would likely fit in your bag, but I can get a measurement of the width if you want (I don't have a rail bag to test). LMK.

 

[Voi]

Sage55 another member did a review of that saw & went over some fixes for alignment issues as I recall. If you can't find it post back & I'll take a look when I get home.

 

[Voi]

The poster was Denwood & thread is in review section. From March 2017. Can't seem to copy & paste link from my phone.

 

[acer66]

Does the saw have adjuster knobs and does the saw slide freely on the track when not cutting?

 

[acer66]

Just looked up the manual and yours does have adjuster knobs.
View media item 98373
I have to readjust mine every time I switch between Makita and Festool tracks.

 

[jar944]

If you expect to push it through the wood like a regular circular saw with a 12t framing blade you will be disappointed.

The 48t blade more like using a 80t 10" crosscut blade in a table saw. You could have 5hp and there is still resistance from the cut.

In other words basically slow down the travel speed.

Also I've never clamped the track in place

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

...

 

[SilverBulletZ06]

Just as an on topic tangent,has anyone used or looked at the Kreg ACS track saw system? My dreams of a table saw are not happening with my space limitations for now

 

[jonshonda]

Curious about people who have used a track saw and those whom have simply created a shooting board and have used a regular circular saw. I make a 4' and 8' shooting board and found them to be very useful for long rips, and only have $20 and a few hours time invested.

 

[Voi]

Here is the thread Denwood made.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=355906

And here is one picture about how to square blade to the base, which would of course keep in square to the track. Even slightly out of square would make the saw more difficult to push through 3/4" plywood.

There are other issues addressed which might help as well.

 

[jar944]

Id be amazed if it wasnt square enough.

Also they should have about. 005" toe in to leave the cleanest cut. Festool has a donkey assed way of setting it.. makita doesn’t mention it.

Use a dial indicator if you really want to check.
View media item 98394

 

[BioNerd]

Curious about people who have used a track saw and those whom have simply created a shooting board and have used a regular circular saw. I make a 4' and 8' shooting board and found them to be very useful for long rips, and only have $20 and a few hours time invested.

I was trimming windows and door like that way before track saws were here. I preferred that against hand power planer

Sent from my LM-X212(G) using Tapatalk

 

[acer66]

Sage55, were you able to solve the issue?

 

[mike93lx]

Folks, the grizzly is on sale for 195 right now...

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gr...X6dRtkRvsm4Y4BGa6VmHFSkqda4Uf2NgaAhGUEALw_wcB

 

[rharman]

I just purchased the kregg one another option and everything ive used from kregg is good. One track showed up today but no saw i can update when the saw shows up. If your interested? This is the real track saw not the sled for a circular saw from what ive seen on the track im impressed so far. The saw was built to make a king size storage bed also but i definatley have other uses for it.

Definitely interested in your experience. Thru the end of the year, you can get an extra track and the connectors free. The left-handed blade sounds interesting to me.

 

[marineengineer]

I just really got the chance over the last week to use the kreg to build a storage bed for my house. It cuts extremely well with glue ready joints for pocket screw construction. I bought the kit with the extra rail but i did all the cutting with the table saw for longer than one track. The blade that it comes with is a very nice carbide blade. The cuts i did were all in veneer oak plywood and chip-out was non existent on the track side in either rip or cross cut the drop side of the saw cuts very well after the chip out guide is adjusted. The dust collection works great even with a standard shop vac. I definitely would recommend it as you get alot of features for a more reasonable price. The guides for the dust collection and wire are great that stop cords from catching on the track. My only complaint is it having a soft cast not a hard cast for the saw considering the price and the precision id like to get and keep our of it. Im probably going to buy a rigid case to mount it in

 

[marineengineer]

Definitely interested in your experience. Thru the end of the year, you can get an extra track and the connectors free. The left-handed blade sounds interesting to me.

If you have any specific questions i can try my best to answer them

 

[rharman]

If you have any specific questions i can try my best to answer them

Your post pretty well covered it. The case is not a concern for me.

I had a 15% off from Acme Tools so I pulled the trigger on it tonight.

Thanks for the good info.

 

[dfndr]

For Any of You With Kreg Saw. Did you buy the table they sell with the ACS? I’m interested in how many of you use the saw and the track without the very expensive table and how that’s working out.

 

[RKA]

It should work fine if the track has grip strips underneath it. Just cut on a sacrificial surface (plywood, mdf or foam board) to maintain good dust collection. Your challenge will be figuring out a way to get parallel rips and square cross cuts. A pair of story sticks and a large square can accomplish both. It’s less convenient than their all in one table but you can still get it done.

 

[rharman]

Your post pretty well covered it. The case is not a concern for me.

I had a 15% off from Acme Tools so I pulled the trigger on it tonight.

Thanks for the good info.

Well... Nothing o the Acme site mentioned the free track/connector promo but I ordered it to grab the 15% Cyber-Monday discount. Called them first thing Tuesday morning and she checked and said they weren't offering the promo. So... Canceled the order and will keep looking for a deal.

As to the table... I'm not planning on getting it. From what I've seen, the track appears to work well without it. I typically use some 2x2 spacer strips under what I'm cutting instead of a sacrificial surface. Currently, I just make my marks, allowing for blade offset from the base of the saw and setup a Bora type clamp as a fence. I think the track will be a big improvement for me - at least for efficiency.

 

[marineengineer]

Didnt buy the table expensive track saw or not i really like a piece of sheet foam on a saw horse to cut sheet materials on.

 

[Sage55]

Sage55, were you able to solve the issue?

Just this morning I started another project, building a flip top cart for my Ridgid sander and future home for a Dewalt planner.

Made sure the saw was able to easily slide up and down the track with ease and it does. Except when I plunge down and start cutting.

If you expect to push it through the wood like a regular circular saw with a 12t framing blade you will be disappointed.

The 48t blade more like using a 80t 10" crosscut blade in a table saw. You could have 5hp and there is still resistance from the cut.

In other words basically slow down the travel speed.

Also I've never clamped the track in place

I did notice the speed setting was on about 4 1/2 - 5. "Cranked" it up to 6 (it's highest) and again cutting 3/4 birch plywood.

I'm getting burning on the cut edges and still every once in a while the track shifts ever so slightly - about 1/8". It really seems to struggle to cut this plywood.

I really don't know how much slower I can go with this saw. I'm sure it's user error but so far I'm not getting this saw.

I'm half way considering going to Home Depot and picking up a new 60T Diablo blade and seeing if that improves anything.

I'm either going to get a new blade and try again and if it still doesn't get any better post it on craigslist or just cut my losses now and post it on craigslist.

 

[EZ_Garage]

You shouldn't be having any issues cutting 3/4" plywood. I haven't read the whole thread but how old is the blade, tooth count, etc. Burning is a sign of heat build up from friction caused by numerous things.

It might sound stupid but you do have the blade on in the correct orientation? I've seen more than my share of various style saws where the owners claim it won't cut worth a damn and after investigating found the blade installed wrong. The worst culprits are usually bandsaws but I've seen it with circular style saws as well. LOL

 

[Sage55]

You shouldn't be having any issues cutting 3/4" plywood. I haven't read the whole thread but how old is the blade, tooth count, etc. Burning is a sign of heat build up from friction caused by numerous things.

It might sound stupid but you do have the blade on in the correct orientation? I've seen more than my share of various style saws where the owners claim it won't cut worth a damn and after investigating found the blade installed wrong. The worst culprits are usually bandsaws but I've seen it with circular style saws as well. LOL

It's a brand new saw. This is the second time I've used it.

 

[EZ_Garage]

Ok ... have you just cut with the saw off of the track? If so, how does it cut as a standalone circular saw? Trying to isolate saw issues vs track issues...

Are you supporting both the work piece and the cut-off? Is the plywood pinching the kerf together?

 

[RKA]

I wouldn’t recommend trying to cut off the track. Can you bring it back and exchange it for a new one? You shouldn’t need a new blade to get this to work and they are pretty idiot proof out of the box. The track shifting and all the burning suggests to me the blade isn’t parallel to the slot in the base, but from the other end of the Internet, it’s hard to say. If you’re near central NJ, PM me and I’ll help you sort it out.

 

[tarbellb]

Wouldnt suggest cut off the track? C'mon, its still a circ saw, just run a test.

But I do agree that it should cut 3/4" ply of any kind without much hesitation.

So its either a dull/**** blade, the track and saw dont align (does it have the cam pins to adjust slop?), or the blade isnt parallel to the saw itself.
----

Test without track, also make sure all adjustments are made on the shoe of the saw, and replace blade. All things to do before returning the saw.

 

[RKA]

It’s not just a circular saw, it handles differently with the spring loaded head pivoting behind the blade. Having tried this with a perfectly good saw, I decided it’s a bad idea (kickback). If I need a circular saw, I get a circular saw. Now, with a saw that is potentially not set up properly, he may be guaranteed a nasty kickback.

 

[jar944]

Wouldnt suggest cut off the track? C'mon, its still a circ saw, just run a test.

But I do agree that it should cut 3/4" ply of any kind without much hesitation.

So its either a dull/**** blade, the track and saw dont align (does it have the cam pins to adjust slop?), or the blade isnt parallel to the saw itself.
----

Test without track, also make sure all adjustments are made on the shoe of the saw, and replace blade. All things to do before returning the saw.

They do NOT work well off the track.. I tried once, that was enough to never want to do it again.

 

[jar944]

Just this morning I started another project, building a flip top cart for my Ridgid sander and future home for a Dewalt planner.

Made sure the saw was able to easily slide up and down the track with ease and it does. Except when I plunge down and start cutting.



I did notice the speed setting was on about 4 1/2 - 5. "Cranked" it up to 6 (it's highest) and again cutting 3/4 birch plywood.

I'm getting burning on the cut edges and still every once in a while the track shifts ever so slightly - about 1/8". It really seems to struggle to cut this plywood.

I really don't know how much slower I can go with this saw. I'm sure it's user error but so far I'm not getting this saw.

I'm half way considering going to Home Depot and picking up a new 60T Diablo blade and seeing if that improves anything.

I'm either going to get a new blade and try again and if it still doesn't get any better post it on craigslist or just cut my losses now and post it on craigslist.

Any chance you can post a video of it in use? Likening said before I've buried mine in 3" slabs and it still cuts (albeit slower).

I was straight lining 5/4 maple this weekend with mine (28t tenryu) and again no issues.

 

[Voi]

I finally got around to borrowing my friends Makita track saw. He ordered d it for a specific project which we ended up completing before it arrived. So it was still new in the box.

I did notice some resistance on the track which improved greatly with a light coat of paste wax.

I ripped some 3/4" Baltic Birch with the depth stop set so the gullet just reached past the underside of the cut.

I made rips with both with & without a scoring cut. Didn't notice much of a difference in quality of the cut on the outermost layer/veneer. I suspect the scoring cut is best for melamine.

I was impressed with the quality of the cut on both surfaces. Did find some slight burning on the edge of one of the longer rips.

My gut says it's a decent all around blade but maybe not the ideal Baltic Birch blade. I'll try it one some scrap melamine.

Curious to hear how Sage55 is doing with his.

 

[tarbellb]

Yes, waxing the tracks makes a big difference! Be sure your track cam setting on the shoe of the saw is calibrated the way you want it (ie no slop but little resistance).

Lots of other blades out there for specific task, you can also adapt others w/ washer mods.

 

[Whiskeymike]

Did you reach a conclusion on your saw?