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who makes a decent electric chainsaw?

jd_1138

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A friend of mine needs an electric chainsaw. She has about 1.5 acres and has some wild bushes/shrubs she needs to remove as well as cut up some fallen larger shrubs/small trees. Corded is fine. A pole attachment would be good but not needed (not sure she has the strength to handle it with a pole attached).
 
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racintj

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Really depends on how much she wants to spend. Stay away from Black and Decker or Craftsman. Makita makes some great cordless, but so does EGO and Green works. I would stick with EGO, unless it's a money issue.

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Ign

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Butte Peak ND
Yep no experience w corded but the Ryobi 40V is arguably max bang for the buck in cordless. Love mine. Sometimes CPO has recon kits (that's how I got mine several years ago). I paid around $125 for the saw, charger and battery - but that was with a discount/sale on recon stuff (15% off maybe). I've used the sh*t out of mine.
 

kctyphoon

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If you want a corded model, the absolute best one you can buy is an older model Milwaukee. They are pretty indestructible and replacement parts are still made. Husqvarna is another good one, but I've heard that's also recently been discontinued, but should be enough out there to find. 316e I BELIVE is the model. The only real weak point on that saw is the chain lock lever. It's all plastic, and with repeated use it will eventually crack or break. The makita model is built like a tank. It's the model Home Depot uses as rentals. The ONLY bad thing about it is they have an overload sensor inside that trips any time you try to push the saw hard. It's overly sensitive imo, but it's a very well made saw. I have all of these at work, and the Milwaukee is the first I reach for.

If you want a good cordless, the dewalt 40v is suppose to be better than the new 60v flexvolt from what I've seen online. The 40v is regarded as more of a contractor grade, and more powerful, but honestly I'm sure the 60 would do ok. If going cordless, consider the entire platform you can get along with the platform you choose. People have good things to say about the Ryobi also, but my gut tells me the dewalt 40v is much better..

The key to ANY saw is a sharp chain. Learn how to keep it sharp and your experience with the saw will always be a lot better. A file is good for maintenance, but honestly that HF chainsaw blade sharpener has done dozens of chains for me and brought it back to like new..

A cheap gas model, any really - echo, craftsman, shouldn't be overlooked if you have something demanding, but the corded models have come a long way esp the models I mentioned.

For pictures sake, this is the Milwaukee - kinda dirty looking, but still the best I've ever used.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=302313392427

Just to put things into prospective, all the corded models I use are for cutting telephone poles.. way above the needs most homeowners would ever need. ive also had a cheap Remington limb and trim last about a year or two kicking the hell out of it at work. If you just need something for basic stuff, not everyday use, probably any of the homeowner grade models will be fine. Come to think of it, I've had a corded homelite that was very good too.. just decide what you wanna spend, and read reviews. With half a brain any of them will last a long time for general use. You don't NEED to spend a ton of money. The cheaper corded models will also be a lot lighter. The pro models are made with everyday use in mind. They are nice to have, but not necessary.

I wouldn't be above looking at the homelite or worx models.. sounds like they may be more inline with the needs.
 
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toolaholic

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PA
I have a husqvarna 316E. Not sure if it's made anymore. 16 inch bar. Antikickback features. If saw kicks back a inertia brake engages. Also if chain is getting pinched and motor bogs down it engages a clutch so saw doesn't kick back.
 

jimreed2160

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Tallahassee FL
EGO
I have had an EGO lawnmower for five plus years. Not a minute of trouble. I have an EGO leaf blower. Works flawlessly. My EGO chainsaw uses the same battery as the blower but will also accept the larger mower battery. The saw is great. I use it mostly to cut stumps on my 1/2 acre lot that I am reclaiming from vines and small trees.
 

Hybridss

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New Port Richey Florida
I'm quite happy with my Remington 110V.

I second the very common Remington pole saw. It comes off the pole. I added a longer bar to it about 5 years ago. I have cut more stuff with that thing and it has taken a beating. It wasnt expensive and I always thought it wouldnt last long so I considered it a "throw away" saw. I would cut tall limbs while on a ladder and just toss the saw, pole and all, and jump when things got tricky...lol. Its had limbs land on it...the pole has been bent and straightend. Its gone through packs of chains. I routinely shove the chain in the dirt to cut roots and take out stumps too. Hardly ever oiled it. 8 years later its still used 4-5 times a year. Ill be cutting down a 50 foot Magnolia within a few weeks. It will be used again then. Also since they are quite common you can find them used in good shape for around $50-75.

Funny thing is..I told myself years ago when the cheap Remington broke I would go ahead and get my Stihl pole saw. But it never broke. Well I finally got my Stihl HT101 anyways but I still use my "throw away" Remington to save my Stihl. I can not fault that little Remington with much of anything.
 
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mudflap

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My Dad has one of the Remmington corded ones...Has had it forever..puts a new chain on it every spring...The thing just keeps going.. He uses it alot..i know it has cut down and corded at least 4 dead apple trees..and alot more.
 

langss

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California
I'm quite happy with my Remington 110V.

I second the very common Remington pole saw. It comes off the pole. I added a longer bar to it about 5 years ago. I have cut more stuff with that thing and it has taken a beating. It wasnt expensive and I always thought it wouldnt last long so I considered it a "throw away" saw. I would cut tall limbs while on a ladder and just toss the saw, pole and all, and jump when things got tricky...lol. Its had limbs land on it...the pole has been bent and straightend. Its gone through packs of chains. I routinely shove the chain in the dirt to cut roots and take out stumps too. Hardly ever oiled it. 8 years later its still used 4-5 times a year. Ill be cutting down a 50 foot Magnolia within a few weeks. It will be used again then. Also since they are quite common you can find them used in good shape for around $50-75.

Funny thing is..I told myself years ago when the cheap Remington broke I would go ahead and get my Stihl pole saw. But it never broke. Well I finally got my Stihl HT101 anyways but I still use my "throw away" Remington to save my Stihl. I can not fault that little Remington with much of anything.
Same here........I have not been quite as severe with the use, but I just use WD40 for lube and keep it out of the dirt. I bought a 16" first and the pole saw later , but they are interchangeable so if I need to do a little limb clean up I use the shorter one. Really handy.
 

kctyphoon

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Just posting for the hell of it. Better pic.. widely accepted as the best corded model ever made.. if you ever see one in decent shape, for cheap - buy it.. they only made one model like this. I think mine is 15 years old and only the cord, switch, and chain has been replaced.

IMG_2094.gif


Anyway - just throwing this idea out there.. if it's mostly shrubs you gotta deal with, and small branches - you could always get a cordless sawzall with a tree trimming blade.. smaller, safer, and a bit more forgiving.. not as good, no.. but it's a cheap blade if you already have a saw.

The Fiskars hand saw cuts really well also.. I have one of em in my bucket truck at all times for small branches.
 
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Firebrick43

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I think you really ought to talk to your friend. Cutting brush and small tree close to the ground is actually one of the most dangerous things you can do with a saw do to the very real possibility of a kickback. Kickbacks typically happen when the nose of the bar touches another object beyond what your are cutting, brush is a perfect environment.

Then you state she isn't very strong and couldn't carry a pole saw that sends warning bells in my mind. A pole saw at least makes it very hard to be injured by a kickback. Chainsaws are the most dangerous power tool statistical, both in number of injuries an severity. And sorry but strength (plus knowledge/situational awareness) really is something needed when operating a saw. Electric saws are no safer than gas saws.

In the USA there are nearly 30,000 chainsaw injuries every year. The "AVERAGE" injury requires 110 stitches and cost 12000 dollars.

If you can't convince her to hire it out at least encourage her to let some chainsaw chaps and a forestry helmet.

I would also suggest a cordless sawzall with a pruning blade or a corona Japanese style pruning hand saw.
 
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Firebrick43

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All chain saws have anti kickback raker chains from the factory(it's a lawyer thing). You have to specifically ask for standardard raker full chisel chain. A lot of the 30000 injuries are Harry homeowners with anti kickback chains, they only somewhat mitigate not make it an impossibility.

And if you never had a kickback your either the perfect operator(good for you), lucky(happy for you) or don't have many hours on a saw. I have had several, but never cutting while physically or mentally tired, good strength and proper saw positioning made it an just a kickback and not an injury. Haven't "used" my chaps yet but the forestry helmet has save my head from a good bump or two and the face sheild protected my face from several rouge briers.
 

jakemac

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May 21, 2013
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While I'm not particularly fond of Black & Decker, she might be better off with their Alligator Lopper. It's supposed to cut up to 4" limbs.
image.jpg
 

langss

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Jan 31, 2009
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322
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California
I think you really ought to talk to your friend. Cutting brush and small tree close to the ground is actually one of the most dangerous things you can do with a saw do to the very real possibility of a kickback. Kickbacks typically happen when the nose of the bar touches another object beyond what your are cutting, brush is a perfect environment.

Then you state she isn't very strong and couldn't carry a pole saw that sends warning bells in my mind. A pole saw at least makes it very hard to be injured by a kickback. Chainsaws are the most dangerous power tool statistical, both in number of injuries an severity. And sorry but strength (plus knowledge/situational awareness) really is something needed when operating a saw. Electric saws are no safer than gas saws.

In the USA there are nearly 30,000 chainsaw injuries every year. The "AVERAGE" injury requires 110 stitches and cost 12000 dollars.

If you can't convince her to hire it out at least encourage her to let some chainsaw chaps and a forestry helmet.

I would also suggest a cordless sawzall with a pruning blade or a corona Japanese style pruning hand saw.
I use a HF recip saw and the longest blades they carry for cutting small trees off close to the ground. It works great and nothing to run into on the other side of the tree.
 

Socket Pounder

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If you add up all the consumer safety numbers for a year, it's greater than the population of some states. Personally I've always believed they were bullshart.
 
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