Who still uses beam-type torque wrenches?

[captain14]

I have two of the Craftsman beam style torque wrenches. One I bought years ago and the other was my fathers.

Used one of them the last time I replaced the shear key in the lawnmower. And when I rotated the tires on my Pontiac with aluminum wheels.

 

[ET160]

I use them sometimes on lug nuts.

 

[Citation]

I use mine. I have two as well as two HF clickers. Sometimes I use them because you don't have to set them. If you know you need 70ftlb you just push until the pointer shows 70. Very quick and easy. I also use them to check my clickers. I don't have any great love for them but I like that they don't go out of adjustment. However they are less than ideal when space is tight.

 

[joe_padavano]

deleted

 

[joe_padavano]

Has it occurred to you that not everyone needs every kind of work?

The common thread here is that the beam wrenches are better for engine rebuilds than the clickers. That's fine, I didn't know that, and it's the kind of information I wanted when I asked. The fact is that I haven't needed to tear down a car engine for 30+ years, because car engines last longer now and I don't keep cars that long. And if I'm reassembling a small engine like a chainsaw or a mower, then the clicker (or just doing it by feel) is fine.

So exactly my point.

About once every couple of weeks we get a thread like "do I still need SAE sockets?" or "does anyone still use air tools" or something similar. Bottom line is if one is asking the question, one doesn't need the item. The rest of us already know we still need them.

 

[Mr. Tool]

I'm still asking myself why was everything yesteryear made better (maybe they're not SMART tools or WI-FI or Blue Toothed to death). Grandma and Garndpa had the same washer and dryer for dang near 40years i've gone through 3 sets in 25 yrs. and there's more of things i could post (is there a thread about this)?
@nadogail
Miss Monkeywards, still have the same ol' artificial Christmas tree from them and a very old wood burning stove.

Not to off track the original subject of this thread....but the bottom line "root-cause" is money $$$$.

Yes in the past when manufacturers built things (here in the U.S.A.) they were built with quality in mind and built to last, not anymore.

Now almost all manufacturers have things built cheap (cheap labor, over sea's contracted out, or cheap parts sent in from over sea's and assembled here in the U.S., etc.) then sold for a higher profit.

Obviously built cheap (for a purpose) and not built to last (maybe a few years) because the manufacturer's would rather build cheap products all for a profit $$$ and sell at a higher cost $ because they know that eventually it will break down and the consumer will more than likely just buy another (which is more money $ for the manufacturer).

Keep in mind....the world has changed and we now live in a "throw-away society".

Manufacturers, corporations, etc. philosophy today is build more for cheaper and sell more & pay more for a higher profit.

Just my $0.02 about it all......alright enough of that....now let's get back to the original subject here.

 

[Packard V8]

When I find a 1/2"dr beam torque wrench at a garage sale for $1, I buy it, add a 6" extension, appropriate socket to match the wheel fasteners, write on it the book torque and put it in the trunk of one of the family vehicles. They're great for removing tight wheel fasteners and then reinstalling them to the correct torque.

A young friend was giving me a ration of shite for being so cheap; he showed me the new-nearly-$400 Milwaukee 18v Fuel impact he kept in his boot. Three years later, he called and asked if I could come rescue him on the side of the highway. His battery, sitting uncharged all that time, was too weak to break the nuts.

jack vines

 

[RustyBuckets]

I have a Cman half inch drive I use, along with a Snap On ratchet adapter. Most often for lug nuts. Come to think of it , I probably use it more than my 3/8 in. drive clickers.

 

[guitarbutt]

I find that every one of these "who still uses..." threads are started by people who don't do enough of their own work to need them.

Don't act like that to someone interested in learning about something that they don't know a lot about. One can often learn by asking. Obviously not by asking you, but others are willing to help and provide useful insight.




I ordered one recently but haven't had anything to use it on yet. It was sort of purchased after my need was over, but it was enough to render a "for next time" buy. Having researched them myself, the general consensus is they're hard to screw up

 

[mr.lemons]

I've tried using a beam torque wench on wheel nuts. It's very difficult to hold the wrench steady enough so the needle isn't bouncing around, while getting myself into a position where I'm looking at the dial straight on. Can be done, but clickers are much quicker for wheel nuts.

 

[VolvoRyan]

Like all tools, where they shine, they shine.

For most places, accuracy isn't as important precision, and a clicker will do that just fine.

-Ryan

 

[BDT/NWMN]

In addition to the uses that have been stated; I use them to check the accuracy of the clickers..

 

[dwasifar]

So exactly my point.

About once every couple of weeks we get a thread like "do I still need SAE sockets?" or "does anyone still use air tools" or something similar. Bottom line is if one is asking the question, one doesn't need the item. The rest of us already know we still need them.

That's not quite what you said. Someone who doesn't do his own work is not the same as someone who doesn't need that work done.

But okay.

 

[Mallen]

Like this:



Somebody must be using them, because it looks like you can easily still buy them, but I'm not sure why you would want to. Anyone?

I swear by them. I'll take a simple beam torque wrench over a contraption of clockwork springs most days. That being said, I do have an inch pound Mac branded CDI inch lb dial type wrench
that I just had rebuilt. Something fell on it and cracked the dial. I debated sending it in but in the end decided to. I sent it to CDI instead of Mac and they did a good job for a reasonable price. But it would have taken a lot more to destroy a beam wrench. For tightening a fastener the digitals, the click type ones, the dial ones and the beam types all do the job fine. But if you need to measure something like bearing preload, then you need a beam type, a digital or a dial type. The click types are not appropriate. You need a dial, digital or beam wrench to do pinion bearings, adjust Saginaw steering boxes and set wheel bearing preload.

My beam wrenches are Craftsman they carry the lifetime warranty unlike most other torque wrenches. That being said, beam wrenches don't usually wear out if you take care of them and the old ones are typically better. I dobt lie the plastic pointer on the end of the needle and I don't know if Craftsman had discontiued them by now. Lat I saw them was at Sears a few years ago but Sears is gone in my area. But in the end It's a big metal beam and a needle. Nothing to break and no electronics to die. They have little inch lb ones at auto zone now too.

Essentially, they are simple, robust, and cheap. And even a fairly cheap example should work right and be reliable.

 

[Honch]

I use a Warren and Brown deflecting beam wrench, it's 1/2" drive with a 20-220ftlb range. It has an audible and visual indication when the torque setting is reached. They claim multiple instances of their wrenches being sent in for calibration and still being 100% of design tolerance after 40 years. These things are bullet proof and very accurate, plus you probably only need one with the torque range they have. I use this for 99% of what I need to torque.

 

[tjansson]

I use a Warren and Brown deflecting beam wrench...

That is super cool. Where did you get yours?

 

[Mr. Tool]

Yes!....Warren & Brown torque wrenches are awesome!

WORD OF CAUTION!........expect to pay top $$$ if you plan on buying one (but definitely worth it!).

Australia’s Best Precision Tool Shop | WB Tools

At WB Tools we sell quality hand tools, torque setting tools, soldering equipment and a wide selection of other tools! Fast shipping Australia-wide.

wbtools.com.au

 

[Mr. Tool]

Another brand of torque wrenches that are excellent are Tohnichi!

Torque Wrench Archives

“Explore our full inventory of high-quality torque wrenches. Precision and reliability for all industrial needs. Your trusted solution for accuracy.”

www.tohnichi.com

 

[RustyBuckets]

I have 6-7. The smallest goes up to I think 60 in oz, and the largest goes up to 150 ft lbs. Most have permanent +/-2% accuracy. I do use them as is (or along with a ratchet adapter), but I mainly have them for periodically checking the calibration of my clicker torque wrenches. Without being able to do that myself, I would have a lot less trust in my clicker torque wrenches.

I consider my beam torque wrenches to be as important as micrometer reference rod gauges are for my digital vernier calipers and micrometers. In my mind, there's not much point in having any precision instrument if you can't quickly check it for accuracy or proper calibration on the spot.

I agree. I have two clickers, and I have used them. But I have more trust in the beam type, I wish I had bought all beam type.

 

[Honch]

That is super cool. Where did you get yours?

I bought mine off of Ebay used approximately 12 years ago, I think I paid $80. I have had it tested professionally twice, both times it was within 2% through its entire range. New ones on Ebay are around $200. if you buy one make sure you pay attention to the torque range, there are a lot of different ones for example some are 4-140ftlb.

Here is a knockoff of mine for less than half the price on Amazon

 

[tym]

I used one recently to set running torque for wheel bearings.

 

[Mechanical Noise]

Why would a beam type torque wrench be more accurate? I looked up the accuracy for a couple of Gearwrench torque wrenches:

1/2 in. Drive 0-150 ft./lbs. Beam Torque Wrench​

Accuracy of +/- 7% in a clockwise or counter clock wise direction

1/2 in. Drive 30-250 ft./lbs. Micrometer Torque Wrench​

Torque accuracy of +/- 3% CW between 20% and 100%

 

[Sgtboz]

They are used for engine building. They are more accurate then a clicker wrench. They don't have to be unloaded before storage.

It sure doesn't take much to calibrate them either!

 

[OverkillYJ]

I have a beam style wrench I use when building axles to check the pinion preload. No better way to do it IMO.

 

[Mikeske]

The beam type is also used a lot in aviation when there is a requirement for running torque. That is the torque required to bring a fastener down to specified values. I have one older Utica beam type that I have not used in years someplace in my shop. I try and dig it out.

 

[General Geoff]

Why would a beam type torque wrench be more accurate? I looked up the accuracy for a couple of Gearwrench torque wrenches:

1/2 in. Drive 0-150 ft./lbs. Beam Torque Wrench​

Accuracy of +/- 7% in a clockwise or counter clock wise direction

I would be astonished if the beam wrench isn't more accurate than the clicker in actual usage. If it's not, then it's a very poorly manufactured beam wrench. All of mine are accurate to within 2% across their ranges, and within 1.5% for most of their ranges.

 

[Schurkey]

I have several. They're rarely used.

They are TOTALLY HATEFUL for generating torque on fasteners. Everything about the tool is simple, reliable, and with designed-in accuracy. Everything about the USE of the tool is complex, leading to inaccuracy and non-repeatability. Line-of-sight matters. Hand position matters. Ability to pull smoothly matters. Overall, they're an accurate tool that's a mess to use. When I was a kid, I remember torquing bolts on an Olds, at something like 120 ft/lbs. I couldn't get through the whole series without my arm getting so tired that it shook on the last few bolts. And with my arm shaking, it's impossible to hold the desired torque, or to read the scale. I then tried a "clicker" and couldn't believe how much easier it was--partly because of additional leverage, partly because of the ratchet, and mostly because I didn't have to hold the torque long enough to verify by eyesight with the stupid pointer-and-scale.

Where these deflecting-beam torque wrenches shine is in TESTING torque, not generating torque. They're fabulous as test instruments, verifying torque after another tool has tightened the fastener, verifying the other torque wrench itself, or determining the bearing preload, or whatever.

I mostly use them for determining friction in a short-block--how much torque to turn the crankshaft when the pistons (with rings) and cam are in place. Measuring bearing preload via torque-to-rotate is another good use.

Show me a deflecting-beam torque wrench only rated to 7% accuracy, I'll show you a cheap-junk imported piece of ****. Properly-made deflecting beams tend to be as-accurate or more accurate than most any other type in common use. But as said, the engineered-in accuracy of the tool is "sabotaged" by the difficulty in using it correctly. (Operator error vs. tool error)

 

[mr.lemons]

I would be astonished if the beam wrench isn't more accurate than the clicker in actual usage. If it's not, then it's a very poorly manufactured beam wrench. All of mine are accurate to within 2% across their ranges, and within 1.5% for most of their ranges.

Is it possible to consistently read a dial like the one posted by the op accurately to 1.5%? I would have thought that a very small amount of head movement while looking at the dial would translate to more than 1.5% loss of accuracy?

 

[Banjorear]

I use them often. I also have a Precision Instruments.

 

[Mechanical Noise]

I would be astonished if the beam wrench isn't more accurate than the clicker in actual usage. If it's not, then it's a very poorly manufactured beam wrench. All of mine are accurate to within 2% across their ranges, and within 1.5% for most of their ranges.

Seems to me the clicker would have the accuracy advantage in actual use over a beam wrench. Biggest problem is getting a perfect line of sight for the beam and a secondary problem getting a good pull while eyeballing the peak torque. it's way too easy to relax a bit and underread the torque value.

Not that I get real excited about torque wrenches. Nearly all the torque is used to overcome fastener friction and fastener friction makes a huge difference.

Here's a video in which a 7/8" bolt is tightened to 450 ft lbs with different surface frictions and the tension is measured:

A short rundown:

Tension @450 ft lbs of torque with clean, factory lubed bolts is 53.000 lbs.

Tension @450 ft lbs of torque with dry bolts with some surface rust is 15.000 lbs.

Tension @450 ft lbs of torque with lubed surface rusty bolts is 48,000 lbs.

 

[VolvoRyan]

Unless you're doing engines, differentials, transmissions, etc, "accuracy" doesn't matter. Precision matters. Precision is how repeatable a given torque is. Accuracy is how close to reality the instrument is measuring. If your beam type says 15 ft-lbs, you're probably darn close to that 15 ft-lbs. Clickers will deviate from reality a bit more. For lug nuts, if you're aiming for 100 ft-lbs, you may only get 95 ft-lbs.... *but* you're going to get that 95 ft-lbs over and over.... and that's what matters.

The take away is that these are different tools for different jobs. The appropriately-sized clicker is going to be good enough for most things, and waaay more convenient. Long lever arm, and you don't have to contort yourself to read the thing. Beam style shines on the small stuff where you're often on the bench. It's easy to read.

The beam style is also great for the added suspense of a thread repair into an aluminum engine block.... as you inch closer to the spec'ed number. Are you going to get there?.... or is it helicoil time?

-Ryan

 

[Honch]

There are deflecting beam torque wrenches that "click" when the desired torque is reached. They don't require you to read a dial during use which allows for repeatable, accurate torque. These are not effective for rotational torque reading, as others have said, you must pick the right tool for the job.

 

[Mr. Tool]

 

[Mechanical Noise]

Accuracy is how close to reality the instrument is measuring. If your beam type says 15 ft-lbs, you're probably darn close to that 15 ft-lbs. Clickers will deviate from reality a bit more.

Why would a clicker deviate from reality more than a beam type? Clickers are designed to be adjusted and can be adjusted spot on at one point in their range. A beam wrench can be zeroed but then you have to trust the factory's accuracy on positioning the drive, etc.

Then there's the issue of the variations in fastener friction and the fact that torque is only an indirect method of measuring tension/preload:


Table VII -- Industrial Fasteners Institute's Torque-Measuring Method
[From ref. 1.]

Preload measuring method	Accuracy, percent	Relative cost
Feel (operator's judgment)	±35	1
Torque wrench	±25	1.5
Turn of the nut	±15	3
Load-indicating washers	±10	7
Fastener elongation	±3 to 5	15
Strain gages	±1	20

Fastener Torque | Engineering Library

This page provides the sections on proper bolt torque from NASA's

engineeringlibrary.org