I probably know the answer already, but the only thing I ever see around me on CL is ShopSmith multi function machines. Are they worth any time or money for metal working or is it mainly for wood and simple hobby stuff?
Who's got lathes?
- Thread starter brats.n.harleys
- Start date
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
mrbreezeet1
Banned
Did you see the South Bend movies that are out there?THAT IS A GREAT LINK!!!! THANKS!!!!
There real old, look like something that would have been shown in my high school shop class in 69, and they were old then.
I will try to find the link, I think I need to download them again.
These are good too.
http://metalworking.com/tutorials/ARMY-TC-9-524/9-524-index.html
Grinding Your Own Lathe Tools
http://www.sherline.com/grinding.htm
I can't find the videos right now, If I come across them I'll post them.
Last edited:
mrbreezeet1
Banned
Yeah, if it's the "Shop Smith" I am thinking of, the only "Shop Smiths" I ever saw were for wood only.
tdkkart
Well-known member
Just today I picked up the Clausing 12x36 model 5914 that I bought off of Ebay 2 weeks ago. Looks to be in pretty decent shape, I think most of it's issues can be fixed with some 409 or Simple Green.
I'll have pics up in a few days.
I'll have pics up in a few days.
mrbreezeet1
Banned
Here they are on you tube, but the are, or were out there to download, they may have taken them down.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...sg=AFQjCNFxNf_nXFayyy473oK4Dqm7GIF9VQ&cad=rja
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...sg=AFQjCNGTqWmRzwBPQGGlKqCXzBAmyf1ZfA&cad=rja
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...sg=AFQjCNEXFyyAtwtCxI8PhWIqy2yxTSBS4w&cad=rja
John in OH
Well-known member
Yeah, that's my impression also ... the Shopsmith that I'm picturing is for wood only.
BUT ... don't confuse Shopsmith with Smithy. Smithy makes small machine tools and are best know for building a line of 3-in-1 tools (lathe, mill, drill press) for hobby/small shop metal work. You can see their offerings at: http://www.smithy.com
I've never used one, but have read mixed reviews on other forums ... some guys think they are useful, others think they are useless. In theory, it would seem that a 3-in-1 machine would be a good idea ... compact, multi-function, etc. And maybe it is a good idea, but I guess it depends on what sort of work and how much work you want to do.
Here is my little 15x30 LeBlond Regal Servo shift. Its a fairly modern machine; full inch/metric, 1800 rpm spindle, 2.250 spindle bore. It has a L1 spindle taper and I have a 3 jaw, 4 jaw, drive plate, and the shown 5C collet closer. Needs a readout or at least a trav-a-dial, I get spoiled from work!
Last edited:
Nelson58
Well-known member
E.Marquez
Well-known member
What he said, i looked for more then a year, likely spent the price of what some you paid for a GOOD used old lathe in gas money alone, never did find one worth buying.
Came across a Smithy 1220LTD,
one owner with spare and such,,, drove across TX and had it in my garage up and running in a day.
It works GREAT for the things I do with it..
Tool making
Fastener and spacers
Seal, bearing race or cone drivers
Replacement parts for broken bits on a Saturday before a race.
Plus tons of other stuff from facing parts or cutting shafts, pins, once you have the basics down, the skills keep building as do the tools, holders, vices, clamps.. on par with the Slush fund I keep for said purchases..
Really do not use the Drill part much as I have a nice JET drill press, but the lathe and Mil part.. All the time. Paid $600 for the unit lightly used, and 4 times that in tooling and fixtures now.
Still looking for that good deal 12x46 lathe and a Knee Mil..
Attachments
Last edited:
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Here is my little 15x30 LeBlond Regal Servo shift. Its a fairly modern machine; full inch/metric, 1800 rpm spindle, 2.250 spindle bore. It has a L1 spindle taper and I have a 3 jaw, 4 jaw, drive plate, and the shown 5C collet closer. Needs a readout or at least a travel dial, I get spoiled from work!
That's the same lathe I run in the Toolroom. I find the LeBlond lathe to be a great lathe for the size. I don't know how many times ours has been moved around, but it is excellent as far as accuracy.
tdkkart
Well-known member
Picked up this Clausing 12x36 off Ebay a couple weeks ago, in the process of cleaning it up to replace the Atlas listed earlier in this thread.
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Picked up this Clausing 12x36 off Ebay a couple weeks ago, in the process of cleaning it up to replace the Atlas listed earlier in this thread.
Nice score TD
Jim Johnstone
Well-known member
Picked up this Clausing 12x36 off Ebay a couple weeks ago, in the process of cleaning it up to replace the Atlas listed earlier in this thread.
Nice looking lathe, now get that chuck key the hell out of the chuck! haha
tdkkart
Well-known member
Yes, I know better, that was the pic taken by the Ebay seller, who learned alot about listing something he knew nothing about on Ebay. Thankfully he couldn't answer any questions about it, and I was the only one that was close enough and took the time to go look at it. I was the only bidder on it, and from all indications so far it's primary issue is that it's dirty.
Nelson58
Well-known member
Just a little SB 10L (Heavy Ten). Just some routine maintenance of the compound.
Nice! Mine is slightly older. Did you wire it to a VFD?
Nelson
Jeepy
Member
If anyone like youtube go on this guy channel mrpete222...he's like the Hickok45 of the machining trade.
He guides you trough the process of evaluating condition of the tool. In three parts!
Remember youtube is not only for looking at **** girl...haha enjoy guys!
He guides you trough the process of evaluating condition of the tool. In three parts!
Remember youtube is not only for looking at **** girl...haha enjoy guys!
Shadowdog500
Well-known member
Just a little SB 10L (Heavy Ten). Just some routine maintenance of the compound.
How do you like your heavy 10? Where is the saddle?
I F-ed up big time last week by not buying that exact same lathe in grey on the spot for a grand including the rotary phase converter. Ill get the next one though.
Been using my little SEIG lathe a lot in the last few weeks. I just want a bigger lathe that has QUICK CHANGE GEARS and a taper attachment!
Chris
Just finished restoring a 1961 Logan Model 1955 11x24" lathe. Before and after photos shown. It's about 95% done in the photo. Just needs the gearbox chart plate and VFD installed.
My personal lathe is a Harbor Freight 8x12 (actually 8x14) which I got new in 2006 and have been very happy with. No pic of that one.
My personal lathe is a Harbor Freight 8x12 (actually 8x14) which I got new in 2006 and have been very happy with. No pic of that one.
Attachments
Steevo
Well-known member
Richard D
Well-known member
I must be real lucky-my buddy called the other day and asked me to come help him with AutoCAD for an hour or so, and to show me a couple new toys he had. Someone was cleaning out their garage and was going to throw them away, so he took them. One was a decent little old Japanese drill press, it was kinda neat. The other was a complete Unimat lathe, still in the wooden box with paperwork and manual, all the parts, including milling attachment, plus some extras. I did the CAD work for nothing because he's my buddy, and he was buying the beer. He gave me the lathe. He wanted to keep the drill press, so he also gave me an old Taiwan benchtop drillpress he had laying around.
I had no idea wat these little lathes were selling for! One is on ebay for $850, several others in the $400-$500 range.
Last edited:
Yes, and still is.
no I didn't. I have several machines in my stable and they all run 3 phase. so I run an RPC to support them.
Rob
Chris,
I like my SB because of the size and the power. I just refurbished my saddle and compound so they were probably drying. I put in all new oil wicks, cleaned up the gears, and pulled out all sorts of junk. Decided to strip and paint. Now it's a little loose and I'm thinking that the compound bushing is loose, as the gib is erratic.
truckin23
Banned
Just missed this one by 1 hour yesterday
CRAFTSMAN ATLAS LATHE - $650 (berkeley north / hills)
Date: 2012-01-04, 4:54PM PST
Reply to: [email protected] [Errors when replying to ads?]
Craftsman Atlas Lathe 12 x 24, model 101.07403. No rust, No wear. 3 jaw, 4 jaw, faceplate, steady rest, QCTP, gears, chucks, centers, milling attachment, tooling, manuals. SEE IT RUN!
I kick myself in the A$$ for not getting a hold of him when it 1st showed up on cl
CRAFTSMAN ATLAS LATHE - $650 (berkeley north / hills)
Date: 2012-01-04, 4:54PM PST
Reply to: [email protected] [Errors when replying to ads?]
Craftsman Atlas Lathe 12 x 24, model 101.07403. No rust, No wear. 3 jaw, 4 jaw, faceplate, steady rest, QCTP, gears, chucks, centers, milling attachment, tooling, manuals. SEE IT RUN!
I kick myself in the A$$ for not getting a hold of him when it 1st showed up on cl
ptschram
Well-known member
You do know that's what the chuck key is for, don't you?
I always LOL at the comments about chuck keys in lathes and when taking pics, make damn sure that the key is in the chuck
imperialman67
Well-known member
X2 The Leblond I use at work has the longer bed,is a few years newer,but is basically the same lathe. Talking with a repairman, he said the achillies heel on Leblonds like this are the servo motors FWIW.
I think if I were going to outfit my garage with an engine lathe it would be a Leblond.
I also saw in an earlier post someone had a picture of an smaller engine lathe that looked like a Harrison. We also have a couple of Harrisons at work that though a bit noisy seem well built .
Kevin54
MEMBER EMERITUS
Just a little FYI for anyond purchasing a lathe and if you would happen to run across a Hardinge Speed Lathe, or Hardinge Toolroom Lathe, you need to check the Compound for wear. Tubalcain discusses the Hardinge Speed Lathe here towards the end of the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=nYni5QP0qyw It is the short lathe with no tailstock.
What happens is that there is no way to lube the compound on them, and over a period of time, the compound will wear. Once it does, when taking a face cut, you can feel the compound jump slightly. Another way to check is to back the compound all of the way out, then wiggle it with your hand to see if it is loose. If it is, 9 times out of 10, you cannot adjust the gib to tighten it up. Normally with the speed lathe, most of your work is done in an area of just a couple of inches, average. If you tighten the gib to take up the slop, if you are out of the certain couple of inches, the gib will tighten up to where it is very hard to turn.
The Hardinge Speed Lathe is very precise. And if the compound is sloppy from wear it kind of renders the lathe useless. To have the compound sent in to Hardinge for a rebuild cost big money. For a new compound...$10,000. For Hardinge to rebuild the existing compound $5000. And I didn't add an extra zero either. I've had to send ours out twice to have it rebuilt over the years. It seems like a ridiculous price for no more than what the compound is, but it is one of the main features that make the lathe. Without it you're pretty well screwed and they know it.
The compound is shown here. This type of compound does not have power feed or power crossfeed. So if you would happen to run across one for sale, make sure you check it out by running the compound out to it's limit.
What happens is that there is no way to lube the compound on them, and over a period of time, the compound will wear. Once it does, when taking a face cut, you can feel the compound jump slightly. Another way to check is to back the compound all of the way out, then wiggle it with your hand to see if it is loose. If it is, 9 times out of 10, you cannot adjust the gib to tighten it up. Normally with the speed lathe, most of your work is done in an area of just a couple of inches, average. If you tighten the gib to take up the slop, if you are out of the certain couple of inches, the gib will tighten up to where it is very hard to turn.
The Hardinge Speed Lathe is very precise. And if the compound is sloppy from wear it kind of renders the lathe useless. To have the compound sent in to Hardinge for a rebuild cost big money. For a new compound...$10,000. For Hardinge to rebuild the existing compound $5000. And I didn't add an extra zero either. I've had to send ours out twice to have it rebuilt over the years. It seems like a ridiculous price for no more than what the compound is, but it is one of the main features that make the lathe. Without it you're pretty well screwed and they know it.
The compound is shown here. This type of compound does not have power feed or power crossfeed. So if you would happen to run across one for sale, make sure you check it out by running the compound out to it's limit.
mrbreezeet1
Banned
here is the link where you can download the old south bend videos. These are pretty cool, there real old fashioned looking.
http://gunsmithing.web.officelive.com/DownLoads.aspx
Oh well, getting this,
"This account's public links are generating too much traffic and have been temporarily disabled!"
Not sure how long temporarily is?
The PDF
"How To Run A Lathe" is still working.
Looks like a pretty good copy.
http://gunsmithing.web.officelive.com/Documents/How_to_Run_a_Lathe_South_Bend_Lathe.pdf
http://gunsmithing.web.officelive.com/DownLoads.aspx
Oh well, getting this,
"This account's public links are generating too much traffic and have been temporarily disabled!"
Not sure how long temporarily is?
The PDF
"How To Run A Lathe" is still working.
Looks like a pretty good copy.
http://gunsmithing.web.officelive.com/Documents/How_to_Run_a_Lathe_South_Bend_Lathe.pdf
Last edited:
imperialman67
Well-known member
Just a little FYI for anyond purchasing a lathe and if you would happen to run across a Hardinge Speed Lathe, or Hardinge Toolroom Lathe, you need to check the Compound for wear. Tubalcain discusses the Hardinge Speed Lathe here towards the end of the video http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&NR=1&v=nYni5QP0qyw It is the short lathe with no tailstock.
What happens is that there is no way to lube the compound on them, and over a period of time, the compound will wear. Once it does, when taking a face cut, you can feel the compound jump slightly. Another way to check is to back the compound all of the way out, then wiggle it with your hand to see if it is loose. If it is, 9 times out of 10, you cannot adjust the gib to tighten it up. Normally with the speed lathe, most of your work is done in an area of just a couple of inches, average. If you tighten the gib to take up the slop, if you are out of the certain couple of inches, the gib will tighten up to where it is very hard to turn.
The Hardinge Speed Lathe is very precise. And if the compound is sloppy from wear it kind of renders the lathe useless. To have the compound sent in to Hardinge for a rebuild cost big money. For a new compound...$10,000. For Hardinge to rebuild the existing compound $5000. And I didn't add an extra zero either. I've had to send ours out twice to have it rebuilt over the years. It seems like a ridiculous price for no more than what the compound is, but it is one of the main features that make the lathe. Without it you're pretty well screwed and they know it.
The compound is shown here. This type of compound does not have power feed or power crossfeed. So if you would happen to run across one for sale, make sure you check it out by running the compound out to it's limit.
Hardinge is kind of a sad story ,at least where I work.
When I started working at our shop in 1974 , You could have taken a photo of the shop floor and used it as the cover of a brochure for Hardinge.
We actually had a Chucker dept which consisted of10-12 hand Chuckers .
We also had tool room lathes ,hand screws, and a Hardinge automatic that for the life of me ,I can't remember what it was called. HNC maybe?
It was a non CNC machine that was controlled by cams,and stops. It was a super accurate machine that you could literally walk away from and let run on its own.
Then we bought our first Hardinge CHNC that was as troublesome as the previous one was good. That combined with less than stellar service from the local machine tool company ,and our shop taking a chance on a little heard of machine at the time called a Mazak was all it took.
Nothing new by Hardinge in our shop now ,only Mazak
montie
New member
I got this Mitchell lathe a while ago which appears to be quite scarce. It is fairly OK except for the cross slide that has a lot of wear which I need to fix. It used to be powered by a 380V 3phase motor which I had to change to 220V single phase as this is the power available at home.Cars&Classic
Well-known member
I have a lot of "extra" tooling, need to be careful I know about saying I have extra tooling on garage journal!
I am a novice lathe person, have used it a lot, but never had the shop I have now. now that I am organizing and using the equipment more I relized I have collected too many parts.
does everyone usually sell the extras? or trade them for what they need? as I am doing inventory I noticed I have 4-6 4 jaw chucks, 2-3 3 jaw chucks 2 milling attachments...... you get the idea. I dont have a taper attachment, and a few other things. so is it better to try to find a machinest and trade? or sell these and buy what I need??
I seam to have this very hard time selling or releasing tools!
most of these are for southbend lathe I believe.
link http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=1674
I am a novice lathe person, have used it a lot, but never had the shop I have now. now that I am organizing and using the equipment more I relized I have collected too many parts.
does everyone usually sell the extras? or trade them for what they need? as I am doing inventory I noticed I have 4-6 4 jaw chucks, 2-3 3 jaw chucks 2 milling attachments...... you get the idea. I dont have a taper attachment, and a few other things. so is it better to try to find a machinest and trade? or sell these and buy what I need??
I seam to have this very hard time selling or releasing tools!
most of these are for southbend lathe I believe.
link http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=1674
Last edited:
My suggestion to you is to store your parts and become proficient with the lathe. Then you will understand what each part is for and why it is there. You may also find parts that do not fit your lathe and then they become fodder for trade or sale. You have some parts there that may be worth quite a few bucks. Get on the machinists boards and join that community. You will learn a lot and get a more focused discussion that you will on this board.
lg
no neat sig line
Richard D
Well-known member
Practical Machinist.com is a good one, it has forums specific to certain brands of machines. Also Home Machinist, Shop floor talk.com, and Home Shop Machinist & Machinist Workshop Magazines, all have good forums. On other website to check is The Houston Home Metal Shop Club, our monthly online newsletter has lots of info and projects, often with dimensioned plans.
Last edited:
kmacht
Well-known member
It is usually easier to sell than it is to trade something. Both practical machinist and the yahoo group for south bend lathes are quite active. Things like the milling attachments will go quickly and for decent money on there.
With that said, if you post up what you are looking for on here some of us may have stuff to horse trade with. I bought a 9" SB lathe a few months back with 3 large drawers worth of tooling and am going through the same process of figuring out what I have, what I need, and what I want.
Keith
Cars&Classic
Well-known member
yes I need to get an inventory first, and clean the sstuff up I am glad it wasent in storage any longer! it was starting to flash off. some of the tool holders are for a larger lathe so they will obviously go. then there are a lot of multiples like the quick change square tool post holder & 4 jaw chucks.
I noticed that some of the chucks are the same diameter, but have different style jaws. I know that it could be handy to have the different style jaws, but trying to keep them all?? then again I have this hadit of wanting one of every tool I see
The one tool I dont have is a taper attachment, they intrege me so I need to creat a project that i need one for so i can justify buying one. on Erape they are over 500.00
also need to make or find some plans to build a base for the small mill I have. they had a nice base at HF but it is discontinued. only one I find is clear in texas. cost would be more to ship.
I noticed that some of the chucks are the same diameter, but have different style jaws. I know that it could be handy to have the different style jaws, but trying to keep them all?? then again I have this hadit of wanting one of every tool I see
The one tool I dont have is a taper attachment, they intrege me so I need to creat a project that i need one for so i can justify buying one. on Erape they are over 500.00
also need to make or find some plans to build a base for the small mill I have. they had a nice base at HF but it is discontinued. only one I find is clear in texas. cost would be more to ship.
BigMike782
Well-known member
Don't kick yourself too hard.Those are better than no lathe but only by a small margin.I have had mine for 20 years and there have been times it has saved my neck but with flat ways I have never been able to get it leave a smooth surface finish regardless of depth of cut.