Will sheet rock on ceiling improve lighting output???

[GarageGuy89]

Anyone have any experience with this?

I've got the lower level of my "apartment style" garage's ceiling with exposed framing and insulation. It's got 10' ceilings with bulb/socket lighting throughout, and the light output is not up to snuff.

I put in those Y style adapters to add two bulbs at each socket and that seemed to help. Would placing sheet rock on the ceiling help with the lighting? Enough to justify hanging sheet rock on 10' ceiling!?!?! My thinking is that since it is a bulb style lighting that the sheet rock would provide added reflective benefits...

Or, convert to a downward facing ballast system? Not a big fan of those. And on top of that I would like to sheet rock the ceiling anyways in the near distance future at some point in my lifetime.

 

[LXCam]

Yes it will, it'll make a huge improvement reflecting the light. Just don't paint it some dark color.

 

[larry_g]

Made a big difference in mine, painted white. In my shop area I put receptacles in the ceiling so I can plug in florescent fixtures and have the ability to move them about to suite the machine placement. Some will tell you it is not to code but in my shop the inspectors have much more to worry about.

Post #48 in my build thread below will show the difference.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[GarageGuy89]

Made a big difference in mine, painted white. In my shop area I put receptacles in the ceiling so I can plug in florescent fixtures and have the ability to move them about to suite the machine placement. Some will tell you it is not to code but in my shop the inspectors have much more to worry about.

Post #48 in my build thread below will show the difference.

lg
no neat sig line

That's what I was hoping to hear! Anyone know off the top of their head what the minimum thickness is for sheet rock on detached garage?

 

[Norcal]

That's what I was hoping to hear! Anyone know off the top of their head what the minimum thickness is for sheet rock on detached garage?

What is the spacing of the ceiling joists? If 24" I would use 5/8" to reduce the sag of the drywall between them, plus a little more beefy over 1/2".

 

[Stuff]

You said lower level of "apartment style" so if you have livable space above it should have fire rated sheet rock - usually 5/8"

 

[GarageGuy89]

You said lower level of "apartment style" so if you have livable space above it should have fire rated sheet rock - usually 5/8"

I don't know if you can consider it livable. It does not have water or plumbing...More of a rec room...

 

[alfredeneuman]

A rec room will still be considered habitable. (A bedroom doesn't have plumbing or water either)

Use 5/8" Type X drywall. and be sure to tape all the joints.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

If you don't need fire protection I wouldn't waste the time and energy putting up sheet rock, painting it, etc.

I used white steel panels from Menards. They have three different gauges. In the attached garage I used a heavier gauge. In the 1000sf race shop I used the lightest gauge and screwed it every four feet (every other truss). Its call DuraPanel. For a garage/shop ceiling I really don't think you need the heavy stuff. Looks very nice, reflects the light. Quick and easy to put up. Menards will cut to inch for you.

When I turn the lights on, then the smart phone camera darkens. I have 72 four foot fluorescent bulbs covering 1,000sf, which is probably a lot. But difference between no white steel panels and the underside of the Kraft paper insulation versus the white steel panels without lights was literally night and day.

I would never go sheetrock unless I had to to meet code.

 

[Kevin54]

What is the spacing of the ceiling joists? If 24" I would use 5/8" to reduce the sag of the drywall between them, plus a little more beefy over 1/2".

Drywall won't sag on 24" spacing. 1/2" is put up all the time on rafters set at 24". You just have to make sure you go across the rafters and not with the rafters. You can also get lightweight drywall for ceilings.

 

[MoonRise]

That's what I was hoping to hear! Anyone know off the top of their head what the minimum thickness is for sheet rock on detached garage?

I don't know if you can consider it livable. It does not have water or plumbing...More of a rec room...

If there is 'livable space' above (or in any other way 'attached' to) the garage, most building codes will call for a minimum of 5/8" fire-resistant Type X drywall, for a '1 hour' fire rating.

Some areas may require a double layer of 5/8" Type X.

Tape and seal all the seams and edges (obviously). You don't want fire or fumes to get past the drywall and up into the framing cavities and from there into the 'living area'.

 

[CombatNinja]

What are you trying to accomplish? If you want to make the space look nicer, more finished, cleaner, etc then do the drywall, paint it white and enjoy the boost it will give to your lighting. If you don't care about the looks and just want more light output, it is easier, faster and cheaper to just hang a bunch of T8 lighting and be done with it.

 

[GarageGuy89]

What are you trying to accomplish? If you want to make the space look nicer, more finished, cleaner, etc then do the drywall, paint it white and enjoy the boost it will give to your lighting. If you don't care about the looks and just want more light output, it is easier, faster and cheaper to just hang a bunch of T8 lighting and be done with it.

The end goal is for it to be done, so it's going to happen at some point. Time is one thing I don't really have right now so I'm trying to get opinions on whether or not it is worth my time.

 

[GarageGuy89]

If there is 'livable space' above (or in any other way 'attached' to) the garage, most building codes will call for a minimum of 5/8" fire-resistant Type X drywall, for a '1 hour' fire rating.

Some areas may require a double layer of 5/8" Type X.

Tape and seal all the seams and edges (obviously). You don't want fire or fumes to get past the drywall and up into the framing cavities and from there into the 'living area'.

Got to love codes....

 

[csp]

Drywall won't sag on 24" spacing.

Sure it will. I've seen it with my own eyes. Have also seen plenty of 1/2" on 24" spacing that hasn't sagged. Not all drywall is the same, particularly imported ****.

The lightweight stuff helps and there are some that are specifically made for 24" rafter/truss spacing.

 

[alfredeneuman]

The lightweight stuff helps and there are some that are specifically made for 24" rafter/truss spacing.

I doubt the "lightweight stuff" has a fire rating though.

Did a building inspector approve of the original installation?

 

[csp]

Just because the OP referred to the attic area as "apartment style" doesn't mean it's a habitable space or subject to type X rated drywall.

If that were the case as deemed by a building department it would have already been required to be installed before issuing a certificate of occupancy.

I have faith that the OP can read what's been said regarding type X and is capable of making his own decision from this info.

 

[alfredeneuman]

The C of O is the exact reason why I asked if a building official had approved it in the first place.

 

[Norcal]

If the ceiling is required to have a fire rating, 24" OC joists will not cut it, it will need to be 16" OC, if there is usable space above it's prudent to do the ceiling as a fire barrier. 5/8" drywall is no fun to hang, particularly 4X12 sheets AKA "torture board" , if it was mine I would do it w/ 5/8" rock.

 

[CNGsaves]

Yes.

+1 for going with 5/8" sheetrock.

. . . . . . BUT . . . . only AFTER you've done all your rough electrical . . .
. .AND . . . . . all plans and rough-in for heating and air conditioning.

Almost forgot, also rough in your air compressor line of black pipe steel in the ceiling joists for your hanging hose reel !!!

Finally, have all your ducks in a row for INSULATION . . . again . . BEFORE sheetrock.

 

[Worsedog]

If there is 'livable space' above (or in any other way 'attached' to) the garage, most building codes will call for a minimum of 5/8" fire-resistant Type X drywall, for a '1 hour' fire rating.

Some areas may require a double layer of 5/8" Type X.

Tape and seal all the seams and edges (obviously). You don't want fire or fumes to get past the drywall and up into the framing cavities and from there into the 'living area'.

Got to love codes....

Especially as many met code with no "finished" ceiling. You put something where there was nothing and all of a sudden it must be fire rated.

 

[csp]

If the ceiling is required to have a fire rating, 24" OC joists will not cut it, it will need to be 16" OC

Hogwash

You have no idea what the dead load is of the OPs setup.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Hogwash

You have no idea what the dead load is of the OPs setup.

And you have no idea either.
Only the OP knows for sure if any engineering at all was done, or if it's a non permitted Rec Room above the garage.

One thing for sure, habitable or not, if there are people up there, there's occupancy up there.

 

[csp]

You're exactly right. As I already stated the OP has to take the info given and make his own decision.

At least I'm not telling him what he can or can't do for fire rating or what his trusses/joists/rafter can or can't handle for weight. Your little BS flag is perfectly relevant to what others are telling him he has to have.

 

[alfredeneuman]

It was either my BS flag, or the "fingersx" emoticon, which I figured would be a little too harsh.
It was meant expressly for your enjoyment

 

[Norcal]

My comment meant that I have never seen 24" OC framing members on a fire rated ceiling, on a non-rated 24" is pretty common.

The OP does have to make his own decision, nobody else can.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Skirting the drywall debate, if you're using incadescent bulbs, I'd swap them out for fluorescent fixtures. Better yet, I'd use LED bulbs in them too.

 

[csp]

My comment meant that I have never seen 24" OC framing members on a fire rated ceiling, on a non-rated 24" is pretty common.

Type X, 5/8" drywall is hung on trusses/rafters on 24" centers all the time. That thickness of drywall is recommended over 1/2" for 24" centers because the extra thickness is less likely to sag. The only concern is if the dead load of the framing members will support the weight hanging from them.

 

[Norcal]

Type X, 5/8" drywall is hung on trusses/rafters on 24" centers all the time. That thickness of drywall is recommended over 1/2" for 24" centers because the extra thickness is less likely to sag. The only concern is if the dead load of the framing members will support the weight hanging from them.

But is it for a fire rated ceiling??? I agree that it's quite common, or more like standard where trusses are used.

 

[csp]

Type X is fire rated drywall. As long as the seams are taped and mudded it is then fire rated. The framing behind it has nothing to do with whether it's fire rated or not.

 

[James-W]

More to the point of drywall making the space brighter, it isn't really the drywall that makes it brighter. Any type of ceiling material you use, if it is painted a light color, preferably white, would make the space brighter. You could use drywall, metal, plywood, or whatever else the local building codes allow you to use for the space in question. But the point is, it isn't something magic in the drywall that makes the space brighter, it's just the fact there is a reflecting surface close by to bounce the light back down.

 

[GarageGuy89]

Especially as many met code with no "finished" ceiling. You put something where there was nothing and all of a sudden it must be fire rated.

My point exactly...

It's a 2,000 SF building so I doubt it went un-permitted. I bought it, didn't build it, and there was no snaffu during the real estate process.

Why would anyone care about a CO if they don't plan to occupy it?

LED's 100 watt bulbs are already installed. Really cuts down the energy bill!

 

[richtersrodz]

I have an exposed beam ceiling in my garage, but I am planning on just spraying it all with white paint, and leaving all of the joists exposed. You could go that route..

 

[PugetDude]

5/8" vs. 1/2" vs. lightweight vs. type X
Your local building department will tell you what you need.

Just don't hang Chinese drywall over PVC airlines...

 

[GarageGuy89]

Just don't hang Chinese drywall over PVC airlines...

Do I dare ask how you know this?

 

[nadogail]

Chinese Drywall and compressed air in common PVC pipe sounds like a recipe for
disaster.

 

[csp]

Why would anyone care about a CO if they don't plan to occupy it?

You called it an "apartment style" garage, so that opened up the door for assumption that it would/could be occupied.

 

[Gerald O]

I just wanted to put AC in the loft above my garage.
The permitting process resulted in a cascade of 'requirements'. To have AC, it had to meet the 'energy' code. To meet the energy code it had to be insulated to code and sealed for air tightness. This required it to be fully 'finished' inside. Having done those things qualified it as 'habitable space' which then meant it was required to have 'fire separation' from the garage below. This required 5/8" type X, taped, on the ceiling of the garage, and a fire rated door to the loft. All penetrations had to be sealed with fire blocking. Then, because the code requires supporting walls and staircase to be sheetrocked that support a habitable space, the entire garage had to be finished.

Once you go down the road of code compliance be prepared for a can of worms.