Will these 220 outlets pass wiring inspection?

[alfredeneuman]

If you label the boxes with a Sharpie or a labelmaker, as well as the panel, there will be no question as to which one is which.

And there is NO 220 at all in the US (or 110 for that matter). Correctly they would be labeled either 240 or 120, respectively.

 

[Norcal]

Finished wiring my panel yesterday. Ended up with 6 220v outlets down 1 wall and to the back of the shop, 1 dedicated 220v compressor outlet and 1 more outlet by the garage door for any possible outside work.

How does is look? Anything I need to possible change before I call for inspection? I know I still need to label the circuits on the door. Would labeling them 220 #1, 220 #2 and so on work? Or do I need to be more specific?

Thanks everyone for all the input.

Kevin

Do you have a Brother P-Touch labeler or similar product? Label each receptacle where they are such as "West Wall 240 volt" and if there are more then one on that wall add #1,#2, as needed then use the same info for the panel circuit directory.


Since "220" has not existed in the US in many decades, gone before most people here were even born, would be better to use "240 volts".

 

[ybnormal70]

I do actually have a Brother P-Touch label maker thanks to a Goodwill visit a while back . I've actually been waiting for someone to correct my 220 for a while now. It just seems to be the common terminology among "non electricians".

Thanks for the recommendations everyone!

Kevin

 

[Norcal]

I do actually have a Brother P-Touch label maker thanks to a Goodwill visit a while back . I've actually been waiting for someone to correct my 220 for a while now. It just seems to be the common terminology among "non electricians".

Thanks for the recommendations everyone!

Kevin

And the proper colour code for "220" is brown for the hot conductor, blue for the neutral, & yellow with a green stripe for the earth/grounding conductor, & it's 50 Hertz.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Nice job. I would recommend labeling the cover plates of each outlet ... #1 240v-50amp, #2 240v-50amp, etc. Those labels should then correspond back to the labels on the door.

I see a few more tie-wrap opportunities. Consider a tie-wrap after each breaker.

Let us know how the inspection goes.

Disclaimer: I am not a licensed electrician, nor have I ever studied for or taken the test. Most of what I know about the NEC and electric work I have learned on the Garage Journal Forums and This Old House.

 

[ybnormal70]

My inspection is sometime tomorrow. Wish me luck!
I have left everything open for inspection, panel is labeled as well as all outlets. Everything is turned off except for the light that was installed originally.

I'll keep everyone posted sometime tomorrow.

Thanks again for all the comments and help everyone!

Kevin

 

[jeffmoss26]

That is a clean panel!!

 

[ybnormal70]

Thanks very much! My goal from the beginning was to make it look like some of the very impressive panels I've seen pictured on this forum.

Getting nervous waiting on the inspector though....

Kevin

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Looking at your panel I have some questions:

1) is this an attached or detached structure?

2) is this a main service panel or subpanel? Where is it fed from?

3) if subpanel, when was it installed?

The reason I ask is because I only see a 3-wire feed.

 

[ybnormal70]

Detached
Main, underground feed direct from pole.
Less than 1 year ago

 

[malibu101]

Looking at your panel I have some questions:

1) is this an attached or detached structure?

2) is this a main service panel or subpanel? Where is it fed from?

3) if subpanel, when was it installed?

The reason I ask is because I only see a 3-wire feed.

Detached
Main, underground feed direct from pole.
Less than 1 year ago

But I don't see a ground wire to a ground rod?

 

[ybnormal70]

It is grounded through the meter base on the other side of the wall. Not sure why, but that is how they did it here.

Kevin

 

[wyliesdiesels]

It is grounded through the meter base on the other side of the wall. Not sure why, but that is how they did it here.

Kevin

Is there a disconnect on the meter base? And is the neutral bar bonded to the panel?

 

[justsam]

Garage and detached house are on separate meters and feeds from the POCO?

 

[ybnormal70]

Yes, separate meters and feeds.

No disconnect, just meter. Not sure on the other question.

Kevin

 

[malibu101]

That's nice.
I always wondered why not just land the ground rod wire in the meterbase since it's outside already.
In my area we must run the ground rod wire into the panel.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Yes, separate meters and feeds.

No disconnect, just meter. Not sure on the other question.

Kevin

It looks like theres a green screw on the lower corner of the left neutral bar. If thats the case and it is screwed into the panel then yes its bonded!

That's nice.
I always wondered why not just land the ground rod wire in the meterbase since it's outside already.
In my area we must run the ground rod wire into the panel.

The reason is because the meterbase is only suppose to be for the PoCo. They put a seal on it and dont want people going in there. Should u need to add a bonding wire or check it, u would have to cut their seal!

 

[ybnormal70]

WOOHOO!!!!

I passed my inspection!!!!

Thanks for all the great advice and help from everyone!

Thanks,

Kevin

 

[hammlm]

Nice. It's a good feeling, isn't it?

 

[justsam]

You passed your inspection because of YOUR efforts! Anyone on this board is at best a coach!

You took your time, sought out right answers, did very neat work and did not treat the inspector as an adversary or someone to be hood winked.

Very nice job indeed!

 

[ybnormal70]

Yes, it is a great feeling.

Thanks for the compliments! Our inspector seemed like a nice guy and answered a lot of questions for me.

Thanks again everyone,

Kevin

 

[600SL]

See NEC 110.14(c)(1)(a)(1-4) and give us your comments. Thanks,

fnsane

Sounds to me like use 60° unless you want to keep track of every termination on that circuit has a rating higher than 60°. But it also sounds like 75° and possibly 90° if you are willing to research every device on the line.

 

[Speedy Petey]

Sounds to me like use 60° unless you want to keep track of every termination on that circuit has a rating higher than 60°. But it also sounds like 75° and possibly 90° if you are willing to research every device on the line.

Basically for a new installation, you use 60 deg C for NM cable and 75 deg C for conductors in conduit.
I say new installation because there is not much left out there that is limited to 60 deg other than NM cable. Pretty much all terminations and conductors are rated for 75 or 90 deg.