old salvage
Well-known member
Thats interesting as I've got one (3 inch) that is about 1/8th inch out of alignment. The jaws meet fine though so I'm not gonna try and fix it.
Wilton C2 vise resto
- Thread starter v7guy
- Start date
Thats interesting as I've got one (3 inch) that is about 1/8th inch out of alignment. The jaws meet fine though so I'm not gonna try and fix it.
Those C-2 jaws close almost like new ones. take them off, inspect the bottom, sometimes there is a burr that could make a 1/32 of a difference. Wire wheel them good.
You asked how to free up the back swivel jaw on a Parker? I had one on a Morgan that I freed up. Unscrew the front jaw assy completely out of the vise. Turn the body over, and with your finger, you should feel that hole the pin went into. Make sure its open and doesn't have a piece of a broken left in there. Juice it down good with penetrating oil and see what happens. You don't want to hit the sides of the jaws to try to make it move. You will brake the pins holding the jaw.
Can you get a date of that C-2? Is there actually a C-2 on the side?
Last edited:
bczygan
Well-known member
The pin in the top that holds the adjustable back jaw straight is missing, so that isn't what's holding it up. It's just very tightly secured in the casting. See the photos in this thread:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=80782&highlight=parker
Also:
Bill
Its not an old vise. What are the last 2 numbers on the handle? There were a number of vises that Wilton did not put a date on. 1992-? Most all I have had were later and the year was the last 2 numbers on the handle.
Last edited:
I've had problems with the old 3" Wiltons with jaws. When I was selling jaws on Ebay, I had quit selling the 3" ones. They never seemed to align up right..Like you said the ends would always be off 1/8".
bczygan
Well-known member
took me about 20 minutes to get the key off the dynamic jaw. a little heat helped a lot.
then I started working on getting the allen head bolts out of the end of the dynamic jaw that I twisted off. I ground the screws punched the center then started drilling. not really sure how to get the rest of the screws out.
ZRX61
Well-known member
The thread on those collars is 10/32, If you can drill thru them into the inside and they will weaken and come out. That keyway you took off was a no no. I believe its tappered to the vise so the jaws align up. The least few degrees off and your jaw alignment will be off. I'm usually wrong 20 times a day about something so..?
Wait a miute..Allen head screws holding the collar? If the collar came off and its still in one piece, the allen head would have to be gone, no?
Wait a miute..Allen head screws holding the collar? If the collar came off and its still in one piece, the allen head would have to be gone, no?
Last edited:
I removed the key because I was worried about it getting banged up while I work on the vice. I also saw another thread where it was removed. if it's an issue I guess I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
the heads on the allen head bolts for the collar twisted off. the hole drilled into the bolts is a bit off center and I'm not real sure the best way to get the l little bit that's left out.
it looks like I'm going to be dealing with this on most of the bolts on this thing... also just realized all my taps and dies are metric...that's what I get for only having worked on cars made in the last couple decades.
I'll pick up a standard tap and die set tomorrow.
I'm heating up the bolts for the pipe jaws and the replaceable jaws now in another attempt to get them to budge.
i am so envious of bczygans wilton, that thing is in great shape!
the heads on the allen head bolts for the collar twisted off. the hole drilled into the bolts is a bit off center and I'm not real sure the best way to get the l little bit that's left out.
it looks like I'm going to be dealing with this on most of the bolts on this thing... also just realized all my taps and dies are metric...that's what I get for only having worked on cars made in the last couple decades.
I'll pick up a standard tap and die set tomorrow.
I'm heating up the bolts for the pipe jaws and the replaceable jaws now in another attempt to get them to budge.
i am so envious of bczygans wilton, that thing is in great shape!
Use a 6MM. 1.0 Those screws should be easy to find. A 10/32 tap isn't worth the hunt.
took a break from attempting to drill out and tap the collar holes and figured I'd take a shot at separating the swivel base. drilled it with an 1/8"bit then went straight to 1/2" and then beat the hell out of it with a punch. the metal in the bolt deformed and the bolt heads didn't pop off. pretty tuckered now, guess I'll grind them off tomorrow.
I seem to **** at restoring a vise. lol
questions...
Can you get those swivel handle tops (the pieces that hold the handles) online?
Is there a good way to drill out bolts and remove them without destroying the threads in the cast iron?
I've been hesitant to try and finish up those collar hex head bolts. I'm nervous about it and I don't want to mess it up.
So instead I kept working on the swivel base.
I did get one side done after a couple hours of grinding and pounding with a punch.
The second bolt wouldn't come loose even after I had drilled an inch into it, heated it cherry, bored out more of the square lag area and beat on it more. I have 8 hrs into this one bolt.
Eventually I started wiggling the swivel piece that the lag screws hold up against and I got it to separate.
After I got it apart I discovered that the screw was rusted into the base of the static jaw. I've since heated it several times and hit it for over an hour with no budging.
Here's some pics...
This is after lots of wire wheel work
I really have no idea what I'm doing, just kinda doing what makes sense to me. I'm open to all advice.
Can you get those swivel handle tops (the pieces that hold the handles) online?
Is there a good way to drill out bolts and remove them without destroying the threads in the cast iron?
I've been hesitant to try and finish up those collar hex head bolts. I'm nervous about it and I don't want to mess it up.
So instead I kept working on the swivel base.
I did get one side done after a couple hours of grinding and pounding with a punch.
The second bolt wouldn't come loose even after I had drilled an inch into it, heated it cherry, bored out more of the square lag area and beat on it more. I have 8 hrs into this one bolt.
Eventually I started wiggling the swivel piece that the lag screws hold up against and I got it to separate.
After I got it apart I discovered that the screw was rusted into the base of the static jaw. I've since heated it several times and hit it for over an hour with no budging.
Here's some pics...
This is after lots of wire wheel work
I really have no idea what I'm doing, just kinda doing what makes sense to me. I'm open to all advice.
Last edited:
old salvage
Well-known member
Wow, this is a tough one. You're doing the right thing though, picking away little by little.
I'd be tempted to just grab vise grips, lock onto those studs and twist them out. They would probably break them off instead. Then I'd really be screwed. Get it ?
All kidding aside, patience is the best tool and it looks like you've got plenty so dont give up.
I'd be tempted to just grab vise grips, lock onto those studs and twist them out. They would probably break them off instead. Then I'd really be screwed. Get it ?
All kidding aside, patience is the best tool and it looks like you've got plenty so dont give up.
All kidding aside, patience is the best tool and it looks like you've got plenty so dont give up.[/QUOTE]
I 2nd that. Sometimes walking away from it for a day clears the mind. I'd have to say that base was sitting in water and actually rusted the carriage bolts into the base. Thats cast around those bolts and banging on them could crack off the base. Maybe you could hacksaw off those bolts close to the surface and drill thru them. Good luck
I 2nd that. Sometimes walking away from it for a day clears the mind. I'd have to say that base was sitting in water and actually rusted the carriage bolts into the base. Thats cast around those bolts and banging on them could crack off the base. Maybe you could hacksaw off those bolts close to the surface and drill thru them. Good luck
asp
Well-known member
If you do decide to drill out the bolt in the base, make sure you center punch it first.
I think it's been mentioned before, but you dont' have access to a milling machine, do you? This would be a piece of cake with that. I enjoy the satisfaction of doing things myself, but perhaps a quick trip to the local machine shop would save you a lot of time.
How about letting it soak in an acetone-ATF mixture for a day or two? More info here, especially post #5 http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43028
I can't believe you're doing this without another vise. The first time I went to clean and relube a vise I plopped it right in the one I had mounted. Good luck, looking forward to the finished product.
I think it's been mentioned before, but you dont' have access to a milling machine, do you? This would be a piece of cake with that. I enjoy the satisfaction of doing things myself, but perhaps a quick trip to the local machine shop would save you a lot of time.
How about letting it soak in an acetone-ATF mixture for a day or two? More info here, especially post #5 http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43028
I can't believe you're doing this without another vise. The first time I went to clean and relube a vise I plopped it right in the one I had mounted. Good luck, looking forward to the finished product.
I wish I had a milling machine, but unfortunately I don't.
I could just cut them off with the grinder... is there a good way to find the center of the bolt to drill it out?
I'll throw some atf and acetone on it this evening.
does the back cap on the static jaw come out? what about the piece that the screw threads into? I seem to recall seeing a thread where they were removed but I can't find it now.
I could just cut them off with the grinder... is there a good way to find the center of the bolt to drill it out?
I'll throw some atf and acetone on it this evening.
does the back cap on the static jaw come out? what about the piece that the screw threads into? I seem to recall seeing a thread where they were removed but I can't find it now.
asp
Well-known member
Got a drill press and an indicator? Mount the vise on the table with a little wiggle room. Tap it a little bit in whatever direction till the bolt is centered then clamp it down. I would imagine that 0.005 would be accurate enough, especially if you're drilling undersized.
ATF/Acetone should be a 50/50 by volume mixture... I forgot to mention that earlier. Eyeballing would be fine, I'm sure.
The top of that bolt should come out/off, yes. Loosening the handle, as though to be able to swivel the vise. It should unscrew all the way off the bolt. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm nearly positive that that bolt only slides through the static jaw body. That little bit of rectangular part that's left is the part that kept the bolt from spinning as you tighten or loosen the swivel's brake. Now that the swivel base is off, give it a good whack with a 2-3lb sledge and see if it moves. It may sound crude, but it might work.
ATF/Acetone should be a 50/50 by volume mixture... I forgot to mention that earlier. Eyeballing would be fine, I'm sure.
The top of that bolt should come out/off, yes. Loosening the handle, as though to be able to swivel the vise. It should unscrew all the way off the bolt. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm nearly positive that that bolt only slides through the static jaw body. That little bit of rectangular part that's left is the part that kept the bolt from spinning as you tighten or loosen the swivel's brake. Now that the swivel base is off, give it a good whack with a 2-3lb sledge and see if it moves. It may sound crude, but it might work.
ZRX61
Well-known member
I take that part & have the screws & surrounding base *severely* glassbead blasted. Then start with the ATF/Acetone treatment for at least a week, twice a day.
asp
Well-known member
This is the kind I was referring to
Scratch my idea then. Can you unscrew the handle off the clamp? I'd do that, then hammer on the bolt. The worst that could happen would be that you crack it flush with the base.
Scratch my idea then. Can you unscrew the handle off the clamp? I'd do that, then hammer on the bolt. The worst that could happen would be that you crack it flush with the base.
I think someone already mentioned it. He's right. Its next to an impossible task without another vise to hold your work. How can you hold that 50 lb body while trying to even center punch a stud ? Be patient, eventually a nice working vise will come your way. Once its set up you can go back to this project you started.
autopts-I may eventually give up and wait for another vise to come along so I have a tool to fix this one. but so far I've been having good luck with c clamps and bar clamps and lots of help from the board.
A little heat, time, hammer work and acetone/atf got me here...
went ahead and took the handles and dunked them in some of the mix to soak, we'll see how it goes.
Also got the back cap off and started pushing the punch pin from the side of the vise in but it bottomed out and there I can get the threaded piece out.
Under the cap is a strange looking nut, I gave no idea what to use to turn it.
A little heat, time, hammer work and acetone/atf got me here...
went ahead and took the handles and dunked them in some of the mix to soak, we'll see how it goes.
Also got the back cap off and started pushing the punch pin from the side of the vise in but it bottomed out and there I can get the threaded piece out.
Under the cap is a strange looking nut, I gave no idea what to use to turn it.
asp
Well-known member
Hey Hey! Congrats!
It looks like the base of the static jaw still has quite a bit of rust caked on there. What is the wire wheel you're using mounted to? In my experiences, a drill doesn't spin fast enough to remove all of the flaky stuff but a 4.5" angle grinder does.
Try spinning the nut on the back with a a hammer and punch, or some sort of custom fabbed spanner wrench.
edit: I just realized I'm giving advice to someone in NYC. Great, you're probably a Yankees fan...
It looks like the base of the static jaw still has quite a bit of rust caked on there. What is the wire wheel you're using mounted to? In my experiences, a drill doesn't spin fast enough to remove all of the flaky stuff but a 4.5" angle grinder does.
Try spinning the nut on the back with a a hammer and punch, or some sort of custom fabbed spanner wrench.
edit: I just realized I'm giving advice to someone in NYC. Great, you're probably a Yankees fan...
Also got the back cap off and started pushing the punch pin from the side of the vise in but it bottomed out and there I can get the threaded piece out.
Under the cap is a strange looking nut, I gave no idea what to use to turn it.
[/QUOTE]
That is the back of the thread assy your looking at. It comes out of the back of that end housing. With the rust and all, you may have to tap it out. Try to reuse those pins after cleaning them. Right there was what Wilton called "their straight pull design" As the vise tightens, the pressure drawn on the threaded assy, is locked in place by that end cap housing. Everybody's learning something on your restoration.
Under the cap is a strange looking nut, I gave no idea what to use to turn it.
That is the back of the thread assy your looking at. It comes out of the back of that end housing. With the rust and all, you may have to tap it out. Try to reuse those pins after cleaning them. Right there was what Wilton called "their straight pull design" As the vise tightens, the pressure drawn on the threaded assy, is locked in place by that end cap housing. Everybody's learning something on your restoration.
ZRX61
Well-known member
Someone buy that guy some socket rails for christmas....
LOL!
LOL!
asp
Well-known member
FTFYSomeone buy that guy a working vise for christmas....
LOL!
you guys crack me up lol
I was sorting through my sockets and putting them on some old rails I had and then I ran out of rails... haven't managed to find some to put the sockets on yet.
is that nut left or right thread? anybody know? can I just put a tap on one of those ears our will they break?
the threaded piece wiggles some right now.
I've got a couple hours I can work tonight, with any luck I can make some more progress
I was sorting through my sockets and putting them on some old rails I had and then I ran out of rails... haven't managed to find some to put the sockets on yet.
is that nut left or right thread? anybody know? can I just put a tap on one of those ears our will they break?
the threaded piece wiggles some right now.
I've got a couple hours I can work tonight, with any luck I can make some more progress
Hey Hey! Congrats!
edit: I just realized I'm giving advice to someone in NYC. Great, you're probably a Yankees fan...
for the record I'm a midwest boy and my heart hangs in TX... wish I never left it.
so far i've been using a "course" wire wheel in an electric drill. I have a 4.5" and a 7" grinder, but i've not bought a wire wheel for either. I suspect after all is said and done everything will get another dunk in an electrolysis bath.
Made more progress tonight.
after more hours of "playing" than i care to mention I discovered the only thing holding the internal screw piece in place was the pins. I kept working on them until it all came apart.
The punch pin from one side ended up pushing out the punch pin from the other.
there is a bit of play in the screw receptacle that allows it to be removed after the pin from one side moves the pin on the other side .25 or so.
To be honest I didn't realize both sides had pins. The pin on one side was so flush I didn't realize it existed.
The pins are splined and here are the pics...
After that I turned my attention to the swivels. They've been soaking in the acetone/atf solution for two days. The combo seems to have separated. After I took the swivels out they still would not budge. I then heated them up and things got better. I had to heat them up outside because the smoke from the ATF was pretty thick. after heating... the bolts came out with almost no effort.
asp
Well-known member
Ha, if you wish you never left - then go home. We only get to do this thing called life once, you know... I've got an itch to move to Alaska but can't pull the trigger.
Awesome, looks like the hard part is done. Now you just have to clean, paint, get a few new parts, and reassemble.
IIRC, a twisted wire wheel for a 4.5" grinder isn't too expensive and it really really removes a lot more flake than a the same wheel on a drill will. Grinders just spin a lot faster... My 1/2" Milwaukee drill spins up to 850 rpm (but can break your wrist) while my grinder spins at 4500rpm.
What do you have for a torch? If I had to guess, I'd say oxy-ace. I love my torches, I don't know how I ever got anything done before I got them.
Edit: I'd probably heat and straighten the handle of the swivel lock as well as run a tap through the body of it.
Awesome, looks like the hard part is done. Now you just have to clean, paint, get a few new parts, and reassemble.
IIRC, a twisted wire wheel for a 4.5" grinder isn't too expensive and it really really removes a lot more flake than a the same wheel on a drill will. Grinders just spin a lot faster... My 1/2" Milwaukee drill spins up to 850 rpm (but can break your wrist) while my grinder spins at 4500rpm.
What do you have for a torch? If I had to guess, I'd say oxy-ace. I love my torches, I don't know how I ever got anything done before I got them.
Edit: I'd probably heat and straighten the handle of the swivel lock as well as run a tap through the body of it.
Last edited:
after more hours of "playing" than i care to mention I discovered the only thing holding the internal screw piece in place was the pins. I kept working on them until it all came apart.
After that I turned my attention to the swivels. They've been soaking in the acetone/atf solution for two days. The combo seems to have separated. After I took the swivels out they still would not budge. I then heated them up and things got better. I had to heat them up outside because the smoke from the ATF was pretty thick. after heating... the bolts came out with almost no effort.
You gotta love this one. If GJ made a calender, I'd have to nominate this photo for one month!
You've made this a very interesting thread!!
After that I turned my attention to the swivels. They've been soaking in the acetone/atf solution for two days. The combo seems to have separated. After I took the swivels out they still would not budge. I then heated them up and things got better. I had to heat them up outside because the smoke from the ATF was pretty thick. after heating... the bolts came out with almost no effort.
You gotta love this one. If GJ made a calender, I'd have to nominate this photo for one month!
You've made this a very interesting thread!!
asp
Well-known member
I had to chuckle when I saw that picture too. I saw it and thought 'why wouldn't he just put the handle in his vise?' Then I remembered...
mrchuck
Banned
I especially like the "bottle cap" on the bench, in the above photo.
That liquid refreshment plays a bigger role in dis-assembly of things than one would think.
Great thread and photos.
I'll keep current on it's repairs and re-assembly, as my vise is an older Wilton C-2 4" jaw width, but in perfect condition except for paint fade and dis-coloration.
That liquid refreshment plays a bigger role in dis-assembly of things than one would think.
Great thread and photos.
I'll keep current on it's repairs and re-assembly, as my vise is an older Wilton C-2 4" jaw width, but in perfect condition except for paint fade and dis-coloration.
I would love to have a oxy/ac setup but I only have a little MAPP gas bottle. Took about 15-20 min to get that piece heated up.
I'm still trying to get the pipe jaws out and the regular jaws off. The MAPP torch doesn't seem to have enough heat to get the areas they're in hot. Still gotta tap the threads for that collar... never had managed to get back around to it...
not a lot left to do, lookin forward to puttin some paint on it and bolting it down.
My next set of pics will probably be how I messed up tapping the holes for the collar lol
really appreciate all the advice and comments guys
I'm still trying to get the pipe jaws out and the regular jaws off. The MAPP torch doesn't seem to have enough heat to get the areas they're in hot. Still gotta tap the threads for that collar... never had managed to get back around to it...
not a lot left to do, lookin forward to puttin some paint on it and bolting it down.
My next set of pics will probably be how I messed up tapping the holes for the collar lol
really appreciate all the advice and comments guys