window and stud replacement...

[falconero]

Hello, looking for some input into some framing replacement techniques.
First off i moved into my place couple years back, not being able to do anything with it at the time, just worked with what i had.

As far as im aware shop was built in late 70's with a majority of repurposed material. Link to my post from last year.

New member from north dakota
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=275307

Recently it has come to my attention that a majority of the windows in my shop were put in horizontally instead of properly vertical.
As a result im finding some serious rot problems.

I have removed one window so far and just framed with new 2x6 studs 2ft on center, over last weekend. I wasn't to concerned with it being on A Gable end, however i have three in a row on the eave endsupporting rafters.

Sill plates are all rotted through, wood windows and masonite siding will be coming out, finishing tin siding after repairs.

Im no framer, built onto my garage last summer and that about as much experience as i got. :/
Looking for some ideas as to how to support my roof, while replacing studs and windows.

Any input would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks


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[falconero]

Old bench layout under windows
As of this morning from tearing out bench and drywall over this last week
My plan as of now is to finish demo tearing out the pegboard, a few cabinets and drywall.
Then figure out my window size options and framing it out.




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[sselander]

Pretty large windows for your shop. Windows take up real estate, and can be a security issue. Have you thought about narrower windows placed up higher, like an awning window that pushes out?

 

[Zeke]

A vertical window installed horizontally won't slide. if there is a track on the bottom where the sash moves, it is and always was a horizontal window. Conversely, a horizontal window installed in the vertical orientation has no balances to stay up.

If I haven't told you anything you don't know then just disregard. Windows can leak around their perimeter and cause rot from many reasons to do with the installation and flashing processes.

All I'm saying is that it might not be the fault of the window itself.

To support your roof while you rebuild the wall, just use some lumber to build a temporary wall in from the sill leaving enough room to work. If you're clever you can use the same lumber for both taking a piece down from the temp wall and placing it directly to the new rebuilt wall. Just buy lumber long enough to reach the rafters for the temp wall. Or use blocks under the temp wall to gain height.

If you don't know how to erect and and tension up a temp wall, there are many sites on the subject. Just remember to knock the temp studs in from the face to push up on the support.

 

[falconero]

Pretty large windows for your shop. Windows take up real estate, and can be a security issue. Have you thought about narrower windows placed up higher, like an awning window that pushes out?

Yep, narrower windows was a thought maybe a couple 2'x2' instead of the 55x37 that is here.

 

[falconero]

To support your roof while you rebuild the wall, just use some lumber to build a temporary wall in from the sill leaving enough room to work. If you're clever you can use the same lumber for both taking a piece down from the temp wall and placing it directly to the new rebuilt wall. Just buy lumber long enough to reach the rafters for the temp wall. Or use blocks under the temp wall to gain height.

If you don't know how to erect and and tension up a temp wall, there are many sites on the subject. Just remember to knock the temp studs in from the face to push up on the support.

Yes, the window sashes are on the right side with slides and tensioners. I never noticed until a neighbor pointed it out, no good drainage from the rain.

As far as the temp supports go, i do have a 10ft 2"x10" lvl that i could possibly use with supports. Should i be setting up the temp support within inches of the wall?

 

[matt_i]

If you don't have to tear out the king studs, and are fitting a smaller window, there is no need to worry very much. Just fit the new jacks (or are they trimmers?) that support the header tightly.

Personally I'd try to go back with studs @ 16" OC. You can do exactly what you are doing, just a small section at a time. The truss weight over the section you are working on can be temporarily supported by some basement-style tubular Acme screw thread jacks and a temporary header. I would drill and epoxy threaded rod anchors in each new endplate, less than 7" from each end.

 

[falconero]

If you don't have to tear out the king studs, and are fitting a smaller window, there is no need to worry very much. Just fit the new jacks (or are they trimmers?) that support the header tightly.



Personally I'd try to go back with studs @ 16" OC. You can do exactly what you are doing, just a small section at a time. The truss weight over the section you are working on can be temporarily supported by some basement-style tubular Acme screw thread jacks and a temporary header. I would drill and epoxy threaded rod anchors in each new endplate, less than 7" from each end.

For starters everything in red needs replaced/rotted


I do like the screw jack option, ill have to look into possibly doing 16" make some measurements
Idk, just seems like 3 rafters unsupported is a bit much...

 

[falconero]

Yes i am also anchoring the sill anywhere that gets cut new and old area


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[bczygan]

I like your big windows, especially if there is a view.

Bill

 

[falconero]

Not bad for being on the edge of town...


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[Zeke]

Yes, the window sashes are on the right side with slides and tensioners. I never noticed until a neighbor pointed it out, no good drainage from the rain.

As far as the temp supports go, i do have a 10ft 2"x10" lvl that i could possibly use with supports. Should i be setting up the temp support within inches of the wall?

Not necessary for the temp support wall to be "inches" from the existing. Leave yourself room to work. 2 feet or so should be fine.

 

[falconero]

Not necessary for the temp support wall to be "inches" from the existing. Leave yourself room to work. 2 feet or so should be fine.

Thanks zeke, i think i got it figured out.

 

[falconero]

One window down


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