Wired my first sub panel. Everything look correct?
- Thread starter DustynF
- Start date
dirttracker18
Well-known member
I can't speak to code, not a pro, but that is one of the neatest instals I have seen. I am not sure why some pros feel the need to just toss panels together.
Looks nice and tidy. That will make life a lot better for the next person that has to work in there!
Looks nice and tidy. That will make life a lot better for the next person that has to work in there!
AussieDan
Well-known member
- Separate Ground & Neutral: Check
- Ground Bonded to Panel: Check
- Ground Rods: Check
The biggest concern I see is the multiple (looks like 4?) Romex runs entering through a single 3/4" knockout. I'd separate those into at least 2 1/2" knockouts. I can't find a reference in the NEC, but someone else might.
Usual practice is to load up both columns of breakers rather than just one side.
You might also want to make sure that your Romex is adequately fastened before it enters the panel.
sberry
Banned
The code is "as listed" by the mfg'r, most clamps are designed for max of 2 cables per fitting.
sberry
Banned
Because time is money and most people don't want to pay for "neat" and the electric doesn't know any difference. Its handy to have a bit of extra wire, able to reach any breaker in the panel should it need to be moved.
harvero
Well-known member
Correct me if I'm seeing this wrong. But are all three entry cables black? Shouldn't the neutral be white, and perhaps a red wire is needed too?
Is the white tape enough on the neutral?
Is the white tape enough on the neutral?
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jeffmoss26
Well-known member
The neutral is taped white.
sberry
Banned
He marked the N as white, the other 2 conductors do not matter, the electric doesn't know what color the jacket is. You are allowed to mark conductors larger than 6 I believe.
trbomax
Well-known member
Other than the multiple runs in the clamps I think its very nice. Stacking all the breakers on one side is ok,its still balanced as far as load goes. I just never put more than 1 run per clamp.
edit) what is the green wire going to the gnd side for? There is already what looks like a bare wire comming in at the bottom for that connection back to the main disconnect. Sub panels dont require a ground rod,but instead a separate bare wire run back to the main panel from a separate (from nuetral) buss in the sub?
edit) what is the green wire going to the gnd side for? There is already what looks like a bare wire comming in at the bottom for that connection back to the main disconnect. Sub panels dont require a ground rod,but instead a separate bare wire run back to the main panel from a separate (from nuetral) buss in the sub?
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ishiboo
Well-known member
Gotta say, I hate that panel. Nothing to do with your quality of work, it looks great... but I hate having to dig under a bunch of hots to get to my neutrals/grounds.
ishiboo
Well-known member
Color requirements are from 6ga and smaller I believe, so they don't apply to the service entrance. All I've seen are all black and a bare neutral here and there.
Falcon67
Well-known member
Only thing I was thinking - the big feeders should be in there first, under the rest. Not code anything, just easier to work around. Nice neat work, never hurts to be neat.
> what is the green wire going to the gnd side for? There is already what looks like a bare wire comming in at the bottom for that connection back to the main disconnect.
I would guess that is the local earth or UFER ground. Detached buildings need their own ground. Plus the 4 wire feed. Grounding buss tied to panel, neutral buss not tied to panel.
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I would guess that is the local earth or UFER ground. Detached buildings need their own ground. Plus the 4 wire feed. Grounding buss tied to panel, neutral buss not tied to panel.
Today 01:49 PM
Chris, you are correct. They are two separate structures. I drove an 8 footer in the ground.
I will split up the romex in the knockouts. Not a problem.
Today 01:49 PM
Chris, you are correct. They are two separate structures. I drove an 8 footer in the ground.
I will split up the romex in the knockouts. Not a problem.
rlitman
Well-known member
Is that ground bar actually tied to the panel box? I just see the plastic standoffs (like you see on the neutral).
sberry
Banned
Looks like a screw threw it to the can.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
Question for the OP. Does the strap indicated in the pics by the red arrows, end at the green screw in the red circled area? or does it turn up and connect to the neutral bar? Cannot tell in the pic. I think it ends at the green screw, and that is just a lug with the neutral feed connected to the bar at that point, but need to make sure the strap is ONLY connected to the shell of the panel, and not the neutral bar.
Charles
Attachments
Correct I took the connector jumper off that bonds the grounding bar to the neutral bar. I have read that quite a few times on here to remove that at the sub panel. Let it float at the sub panel and it can be bonded at the entrance (main panel). Correct?
The strap you see is still connected to the grounding bar and does connect to the shell of the panel. The Neutral bar is insulated from the shell by the plastic standoffs.
The strap you see is still connected to the grounding bar and does connect to the shell of the panel. The Neutral bar is insulated from the shell by the plastic standoffs.
pattenp
Well-known member
If you look closely the neutral is marked by the mfg with a white stripe along the side. The added white tape wasn't really needed.
Falcon67
Well-known member
FWIW - if using rods around here, they like to see two rods 6' apart. Your local may be different. This is fairly new, used to be one was fine. The deal is max 25 ohms resistance to earth and more rods = more surface area and more likely lower resistance. Which varies with ground moisture. It'll make ya nuts. The master we have here at the university says on commercial apps they do a UFER and rods around the building.
Almost none of us have equipment sensitive enough to really measure that resistance.