nadogail
Well-known member
I have found it easier and faster to install "Running Boards" that lay on top of the chords and support the stapled NM Cable.
Just an update, been busy with work and life and the wiring has been on hold for the summer. Winter is here now and I have all the outlets roughed in and tied the ground wires both upstairs and down. I also cut in 4 outside outlets for the wife and kids to plug in to and the 30 and 50 amp outlets for the air compressor and welder are in. I am now moving on to the rough in for the lighting downstairs and am doing some research with some lighting calculators. I am shooting for 70-90 Fc at work height and am coming up with a lot of light fixtures needed. It looks like 20 8' LED strip lights (4 rows of 5 lights) will get me to 84Fc. The lights below are a chunk of change and am wondering if anyone has a recommendation on less expensive fixtures that will get me to my goal?
Thanks
The same question asked time after time, & it is a sure bet the need to ask it in the future will continue.Maybe i missed it but what is the HP rating on the compressor motor?
ever tried these?I have found it easier and faster to install "Running Boards" that lay on top of the chords and support the stapled NM Cable.
There's no reason to run 20A outlets unless you have machinery that has a 20A plug.Second, I am running all 20 amp outlets and have limited them to 13 outlets per run max but can't find specs on this, just recommendations so please let me know if I am off on this one.
It's a 3 HP that I've had for years and am moving from the garage to the shop.Maybe i missed it but what is the HP rating on the compressor motor?
Did it come with a plug? Or are you hardwiring it?It's a 3 HP that I've had for years and am moving from the garage to the shop.
Nope. I have the wiring layout figure out now though, but thanks for sharing.
It has a plug.Did it come with a plug? Or are you hardwiring it?
Thanks for the info, 20 amp outlets are in.There's no reason to run 20A outlets unless you have machinery that has a 20A plug.
13 is the maximum number for outlets on a 20A circuit in a commercial setting. (residential is a unlimited number)
I may end up doing just that depending on pricing and my budget but wanted to ask the question to see if you all had any recommendations on fixtures first.70-90 fc is a lot, so that many fixtures isn't surprising.
Maybe start with half and see what you think?
That it came with or you added? Problem is that a 3hp rated plug is expensive and you don't size plugs based on current for motors at that size .It has a plug.
It came with a plug.That it came with or you added? Problem is that a 3hp rated plug is expensive and you don't size plugs based on current for motors at that size .
It came with a plug.
I have no problem hardwiring it in its new location if that is the direction you are thinking I should go.That it came with or you added? Problem is that a 3hp rated plug is expensive and you don't size plugs based on current for motors at that size .
If it came with a plug, it's fine. It's likely not a true 3hp motor then.I have no problem hardwiring it in its new location if that is the direction you are thinking I should go.
can you post a pic of the nameplateIt's a 3 HP that I've had for years and am moving from the garage to the shop.
I just plan on hardwiring it in its new location.can you post a pic of the nameplate
It sounds like you haven't gone to final inspection. Before you do, you might want to ask if all your 120 volt garage/shop receptacles need to be GFCI and tamperproof. Depending on the code version they use, this is a fairly common requirement now.
20a outlets are unnecessary in nearly all situationsI don't think I've seen 20A "tamper proof outlets" - do they exist?
One way we "worked around" was showing a plan where I had 4 refrigerators in a row, so we could do dedicated 20A circuits and 20A outlets w/o "tamper proof". I might have swapped them for dual outlets later
What I can tell you is that I DO NOT recommend dual arc/gfi fault breakers. Do arc fault breaker and a GFI first outlet.
Yes tamper proof 20A are commonly available.I don't think I've seen 20A "tamper proof outlets" - do they exist?
One way we "worked around" was showing a plan where I had 4 refrigerators in a row, so we could do dedicated 20A circuits and 20A outlets w/o "tamper proof". I might have swapped them for dual outlets later
What I can tell you is that I DO NOT recommend dual arc/gfi fault breakers. Do arc fault breaker and a GFI first outlet.
yes they do. the big orange store has themI don't think I've seen 20A "tamper proof outlets" - do they exist?
One way we "worked around" was showing a plan where I had 4 refrigerators in a row, so we could do dedicated 20A circuits and 20A outlets w/o "tamper proof". I might have swapped them for dual outlets later
What I can tell you is that I DO NOT recommend dual arc/gfi fault breakers. Do arc fault breaker and a GFI first outlet.
Are they really snake oil or are they just highlighting craft issues and back stabbing?Why would you want AFCI when it is not required????? GFCI's are not a bad thing but AFCI's are still snake oil.
Unlike GFCI's that do work, you cannot prove they do work.Are they really snake oil or are they just highlighting craft issues and back stabbing?