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Wiring I noticed

livinloud11

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So I'm looking to get a 60 gallon compressor next month and I thought the only 220v outlet I had was the dryer, but I want it to be about 15 feet away from the dryer which I heard the length of the power cord wouldn't work? Anyways, I found this wiring which I'm hoping is wiring for another 220v, is that what it is? how can I tell if its wired to the breaker box, the only 4 220 breakers I see are range, ac, dryer, electric heat and water heater.
 

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G_P

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That looks like some Coax cable and possibly some low voltage wiring used for stuff like sprinkler systems.

Any chance that runs up to the roof where there used to be a TV antenna with a power rotator?

I strongly suggest you call an electrician to get the compressor hooked up.
 
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livinloud11

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Blah thats not good news. Im going to look into it, but I feel like I could do it myself with all of the threads i've been reading. If anything I can just put it further in my garage near the dryer. I just want my ducks in a row when the time comes.
 

LS6 Tommy

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That looks like some Coax cable and possibly some low voltage wiring used for stuff like sprinkler systems.

Any chance that runs up to the roof where there used to be a TV antenna with a power rotator?

I strongly suggest you call an electrician to get the compressor hooked up.

X2. The fact that the conduit is PVC and it goes through the foundation leads me to believe the same.

Tommy
 

pattenp

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Not to beat up on you, but if you didn't know by looking at it that was coax and low voltage wire shows you have very little to no real working knowledge of electrical wiring. Please ask a lot of questions and be very sure of what you're going to do before actually doing it. There are a lot of folks here that will help you, including myself.
 

G_P

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Blah thats not good news. Im going to look into it, but I feel like I could do it myself with all of the threads i've been reading. If anything I can just put it further in my garage near the dryer. I just want my ducks in a row when the time comes.

The easiest way to do it will be to run a new dedicated circuit to power the compressor. Its not very difficult if you have the room in the panel for another 240v breaker.
You could surface mount conduit and run the wire over to the compressor and then install the proper outlet or hardwire the compressor with a disconnect.

I would also get a meter and check that box full of chopped off wiring you posted the pic of. It SHOULD all be dead, but it may not be!
 
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livinloud11

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Here is a picture of my breaker box, and thats why I'm here asking questions, because I do know almost nothing. From my understanding I can plug a breaker in, 20amp would work, wire it into the attic and across and down into the garage then hook the receptacle up to the other ends of the wires which I think should be 12 gauge?
 

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Rookie2

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1) Go to lowes and buy a basic home wiring book. 2) you probably have a disconnect outside near the power meter to turn off that electrical panel, make sure you use it before you do anything in that electrical panel .
 

pattenp

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We need the motor data off the compressor to advise what size circuit it needs and how it should be wired. Does the motor data label list the horse power (HP) and or the full load amps (FLA)? Need the info on the motor label, not off of any sticker that may be on the tank.
Most 60gal compressors need at least a 30A circuit wired with #10.
 
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livinloud11

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Its the kobalt 60 gallon rated 15 amps. Why does the length of the power cord matter if you can run it directly from the breaker box which is a far run anyway? Im certain I can wire a 220v myself but does it matter what kind of receptacle I use? I want to run a 3 wire from my breaker box being black/white/green i think black and white go to the hots on the breaker and then to a receptacle on the other end.

I can avoid all of this with a 20 foot extension cord from my dryer outlet to the compressor but I hear the length of that will make the compressor have trouble turning on. What is the sense of this?
 

G_P

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You can use an extension cord as long as the wire is of the proper gauge.

A lot of people run 120v compressors off cheap extension cords with thin wire in them causing issues.

I have a 50+ foot extension cord for my welder and its #6 wire.
 

pattenp

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If the 15A is the FLA then wire the outlet with 12/2 w/g NM-b if the wiring is ran within the wall and use a 6-20R outlet and a 6-20P plug on the compressor. Make up the compressor cord using 12/3 SJOOW cord. Black and white in NM-b when used for 240V are both hot. The white should be remarked as red or black on the ends.
 
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livinloud11

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Okay that is simple enough and sounds easy enough. Last issue, I have to run the wire through the attic and put it into conduit of some sort, does it matter exactly what I run it through or can it be bare wire?
 

pattenp

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This is where you need to be more specific about how the wire needs to be run before you can get a good answer. Is the wire going to be inside the wall from the panel up into the attic. Does the wire need to be surface mounted where it comes down from the attic to the outlet? Are you planning to use Romex wire or individual THHN wires? If using THHN the wires need to be in conduit for the whole run from panel to outlet box. If using Romex it needs to be run within the wall or protected by conduit where surface mounted on the wall. Romex running in the attic if within 6 feet of floor or access point needs to be installed on a running board to prevent from being stepped on.
 
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404

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Here is a picture of my breaker box, and thats why I'm here asking questions, because I do know almost nothing. From my understanding I can plug a breaker in, 20amp would work, wire it into the attic and across and down into the garage then hook the receptacle up to the other ends of the wires which I think should be 12 gauge?

What a strange panel layout.
All those mini double 20 stuffed on the right.
 
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pattenp

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If the wire is going to be inside the wall until it enters the attic you can use Romex all the way to the outlet box. If you are running the wire down on the surface of the garage wall and using a surface mounted outlet box, the Romex needs to be in conduit from the garage ceiling down the outlet box. The conduit only needs to penetrate the ceiling up into the attic a few inches. The conduit end up in the attic needs to have an insulating bushing on the end to protect the Romex where it enters the pipe.
 

pattenp

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Okay that sounds easy enough. Why does it need to be a conduit? Is that for code?

The Romex coming down the wall needs protection when running on the surface of the wall. It's a code thing. If you can fish the Romex down inside the wall into a wall box then conduit is not needed. The Romex inside the wall is considered protected.
 

DC73

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The buss bar alternates so it is balanced.

Good to know. Do all panels have alternating buss bars? I remember years ago I had a load balance issue with a panel in an old house I owned. That panel originally had breakers configured like the ones in the photo.

DC
 

pattenp

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Good to know. Do all panels have alternating buss bars? I remember years ago I had a load balance issue with a panel in an old house I owned. That panel originally had breakers configured like the ones in the photo.

DC

Looking at the picture you'll see the first breaker is on the left buss, the second is on the right buss and the third is on the left, even though they are all mounted on the left. I should say there is some balancing that can be done in placement of the breakers. The alternating buss somewhat balances the load.
721d1250961214-wiring-sub-panel-garage-sub-panel-nightmare.jpg
 
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livinloud11

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Today I bought the 12/2 nm-b wire and a 20amp siemens breaker because theres another siemens one in my box. I wired it all up and now Im waiting for the compressor. I decided I'm going to hardwire it straight to my compressor, but one thing I did notice is the breaker i put in left a small gap at the bottom of it next to where another smaller breaker would go. How do I know if its the correct type of breaker? They both had the type HACR and siemens.
 
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livinloud11

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Here is the final product (I know its not super pretty, I'm no electrician :()
 

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pattenp

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Looks okay to me. Are you saying there is a small gap because the breaker is not fully filling the knock-out hole when the cover is on? The jacket on the Romex can be stripped back to the clamp leaving about 1/2 of jacket sticking thru the clamp into the panel.
 
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livinloud11

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Yea there is a small gap showing through the knockout. Im not 100% sure I have the correct breaker but it seems to match the other siemens one that is already in there. Will the wrong breaker blow or what?
 
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livinloud11

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I turned the power on and checked it with a voltmeter and each hot read 110-120 volts. Looks like I did good. Just for knowledge, would I have been able to run two 110v breakers with the smaller breakers, to one receptacle to form a 220?

Also I am getting the compressor sometime sunday to tuesday so I will post pictures and the turnout when installed :)
 

Orionrising

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and that I why I could not find em, looked straight at em yesterday and did not realize it...

Square D QO tie bars are not bar/clips like other brands, they are odd looking fat Pins.
 
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