Wiring MR Heater 75,000

[Leeboy20]

So, we have the heater hung up and vented. My next question is how hard are these for wiring? I bought the shelf model, so i didnt get any packing or anything, and they sold me a basic low voltage thermostat to go with it? I can wire alot of stuff, but not sure about this....Is it so difficult, i should hire someone?

 

[Skaal-tel 79]

what have you got? a plug? bare wires? is it 110 or 220volt?

 

[Stuart in MN]

You can go to the Mr. Heater website and download the manual. It's pretty simple - you just need 120vac power, and then two wires to connect to the thermostat. It doesn't draw very much power, so you should be able to connect into an existing nearby 120vac circuit.

 

[Leeboy20]

Its a 110 volt..... I would like to put a plug on it, and have it plugged in just below where its hanging.

 

[Red Green]

Its a 110 volt..... I would like to put a plug on it, and have it plugged in just below where its hanging.

I can look in my shop tomorrow if you need someone to tell you the specific spots but there are two wires and a ground for the power. and then the two low volatge thermostat wires. It was a lot simplier than the instructions made it out to be.

 

[Leeboy20]

Sweet, i will pop the side cover off tomorrow and take a peek in there, shouldnt be too hard i would think. Will let you know if im stuck!

 

[Red Green]

I have the 45k but it should be the same markings

 

[kenfath]

If you can hang the heater, then you can wire it! I used a second-hand appliance 14 gauge wire with factory attached plug to power my 45000 Mr Heater. Take the left side cover off and you 'should' find the black and white wires that you need to connect with wire nuts to your power cord. There is a green screw in the chassis which I 'presume' is for the ground wire. I couldn't loosen it so attached the ground wire under another screw in the chassis. Secure the power cord with a suitable clamp in the punched electrical hole that is in the back side of the cabinet. My cord plugs into a dedicated 120VAC receptacle mounted in the ceiling.

The instruction book was hard to read but there should be a schematic on the inside of the panel you removed that is clearer. IF I remember right we used the white and red terminals for the two wire thermostat wire. There are four color identified thermostat terminals but my thermostat only used two.

HINT for anyone about to install this style of heater. I found it easier to install the electric cord and the gas ****** to the regulator before mounting the heater on the ceiling.

 

[stellar91]

HINT for anyone about to install this style of heater. I found it easier to install the electric cord and the gas ****** to the regulator before mounting the heater on the ceiling.

Good advice, although it may seem obvious, as I get excited adding on to a garage project sometimes I get anxious and overlook common sense practices

 

[Leeboy20]

If you can hang the heater, then you can wire it! I used a second-hand appliance 14 gauge wire with factory attached plug to power my 45000 Mr Heater. Take the left side cover off and you 'should' find the black and white wires that you need to connect with wire nuts to your power cord. There is a green screw in the chassis which I 'presume' is for the ground wire. I couldn't loosen it so attached the ground wire under another screw in the chassis. Secure the power cord with a suitable clamp in the punched electrical hole that is in the back side of the cabinet. My cord plugs into a dedicated 120VAC receptacle mounted in the ceiling.

The instruction book was hard to read but there should be a schematic on the inside of the panel you removed that is clearer. IF I remember right we used the white and red terminals for the two wire thermostat wire. There are four color identified thermostat terminals but my thermostat only used two.

HINT for anyone about to install this style of heater. I found it easier to install the electric cord and the gas ****** to the regulator before mounting the heater on the ceiling.

Thanks gang, you make it sound easier and easier.....Will get at it after work today. ( As i watch the Predators take a beating by My Habs) That heater wasnt the easiest to hang, lucky i didnt attempt it by myself, kinda akward and heavy. I think if you flip the brackets the other way, it would make it easier.

 

[Leeboy20]

I wanted to add, Is CAT 5 wire, low voltage wire ? ( i know...dumb question) If not, could you give me an example of low voltage wire or what gauge?

 

[Chetter]

One last thing I would recomend would be to put it on its own circuit, I put mine in with a 15amp breaker that is the only thing that is powered with it and that way you can shut it off without affecting anything else. Some places it is code. The wiring is really easy and I used armor coated wire since my wire is not hidden in the walls.

 

[rickairmedic]

I wanted to add, Is CAT 5 wire, low voltage wire ? ( i know...dumb question) If not, could you give me an example of low voltage wire or what gauge?

Leeboy you want 18/2 wire for the thermostat wire . You should be able to get it at your local home improvement store either by the foot or a full spool . I would recomend by the foot so that you dont end up with more wire you cant find a use for . Like that extra cat5 you have . The main issue with the cat 5 is it is stranded not solid wire.


Rick

 

[Leeboy20]

Sweet........ Wicked answer Rick.....I think im good to go! Thanks for the help everyone.

 

[stealthbob]

Actually Cat5 is solid 24/8...and would work.

The advice still stands however, 18/2 (Brown Thermostat wire) is what you want and is cheap by the foot.

 

[Chetter]

Actually Cat5 is solid 24/8...and would work.

The advice still stands however, 18/2 (Brown Thermostat wire) is what you want and is cheap by the foot.

That is what I used, the 18/2, that I hooked my Honeywell round old style thermostat that I took out my house when I put in a programable unit, works great with my heater.

 

[PhantomEB]

I just plugged my 45000 into the old circuit, does just fine.

 

[Leeboy20]

So, i got everything ready to go. Is there any place i should tuck or run the wires to keep away from certain areas inside? Maybe along the bottom and out the knock outs?

 

[kenfath]

On the back side, towards the top, there 'should be' two electric inlet openings. Use one for the thermostat and the other for the electric wires. Use a suitable clamp where the wires pass through the cabinet. I recommend a review of the electrical wiring instructions on Pages 10, 11 & 14 of the instruction manual before starting. When you remove the left (as viewed from the front) access cover you will see what is needed to wire your heater. The only places the wires will (or should) touch anything is their points of attachment and the inlet clamp. Happy Heating!

 

[REDSHELBY]

How close is that vent pipe to the overhang outside ?

 

[Leeboy20]

The vent pipe on the outside is probably 4 feet away from the overhang .....sticks out about 2 feet from the outside wall

 

[Leeboy20]

Its still going to be a week or so before the gas guy can come and connect the gas lines. I have it all wired up and ready to plug in. Is there any safe way to give it a dry test run? Just to make sure i don't have a faulty unit or anything?

 

[Ryano121]

You can plug it in and turn the thermostat to heat. You should hear the exhaust fan start to run. After about a min. or so, you will hear the automatic ignition start to fire, as if to light the burners. They will do this 3 times before locking out. If you unplug the unit and replug it in again, the lockout will reset. You should also look for a slow flashing green light on the circuit board. This also indicates that everything is ok.........so far!!

 

[Leeboy20]

Cool......I will test it after work.......Thanks !

 

[Leeboy20]

I zipped home, because i just got a call from the plumber, saying he's comming tomorrow. I plugged it in, and turned the thermostat up. All i got was the green flashing lite inside. No other noise or fan or anything. I have just a cheap 2 wire thermostat that they sold me with the heater. The 2 slots i used on the heater was the one marked "heat" and the one marked "common" . I think the 2 bottom 2 slots. And then ran that wire down to the thermostat and in to those 2 wire slots. The side cover is still off the heater, not sure if that would matter. Any tips?

 

[Leeboy20]

I just put my electrical tester on the thermostat wires, and im not getting any power in them. I even put it to all the 4 slots on the machine where you would install the thermostat wires and all 4 of them have no juice either....But, i do have flashing green light inside.

 

[Red Green]

One my 45k there are 4 screw terminals on the right side of the control panel. I used the two that were marked "W" and "R" the same terminals on the thermostat.

 

[Relie]

Check the thermostat, mine has a AA battery in it.
I have the 45,000 btu and love it. I'm heating a 24X40 ft. 4 car garage and it heats up in about 15-20 min. You're going to love that heater.

Dave

 

[Leeboy20]

BAZZINGA! Darn, not that i hear this alot, but i had it in the wrong hole......I had the one wire in the "C" spot...Switched it up and it popped on instantly and it tried to fire...Tomorrow, i will be warm... Will let you know how long it takes to warm up my 28x30 Nascar Garage!

 

[rickairmedic]

Good to Hear Leeboy . Shoulda warned ya about the T stat wires . R= Red which is 24 volts Hot , W= white which is the Heat circuit , and G= Green which is for the fan only if you had a thermostat that would do that as well. C needless to say is 24 volts common .


Rick

 

[Leeboy20]

I dont know much about electricity, so what would the "C"-24 volt common be used for?

 

[rickairmedic]

Well since you asked . The C-24 volt common is similar to a neutral in standard electrical wireing . Lets say you wanted to use a digital thermostat for your unit . You could run the C wire to the C terminal on the thermostat and not need to in stall batteries in the thermostat . That is as long as you also ran R and W to the Stat .


Rick

 

[Leeboy20]

Thanks Rick, makes sense now. I wonder why my $4.99 canadian tire pen size volt tester wouldnt pick anything up on the 4 screws for the thermostat?

 

[Leeboy20]

Well, its done! It works and now.........Im too cheap to use it! ( thats what my smart *** girlfriend said) Heres some pictures of how the plumber did it. He was 2 hours to do all the stuff in the picture, plus attach it to the gas meter and re-light our hot water heater.

 

[Red Green]

Thats a nice looking install.

 

[Relie]

Good Luck with your new heater. You're going to love it! Have a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Dave

 

[Leeboy20]

Everybody Rock On!

 

[johno]

I'm doing the same thing right now, with the same questions.

Just to be certain, so the thermostat connects to the R and W terminals in the heater???

Thanks in advance.

I'm thinking of installing a switch in the line in, so I can shut off the 110V, so heater will be off when i wish and not controlled by thermostat when I'm not in the garage. Anyone see a problem there?

 

[Red Green]

I'm doing the same thing right now, with the same questions.

Just to be certain, so the thermostat connects to the R and W terminals in the heater???

Thanks in advance.

I'm thinking of installing a switch in the line in, so I can shut off the 110V, so heater will be off when i wish and not controlled by thermostat when I'm not in the garage. Anyone see a problem there?

The way these heaters are set up you would have to turn the thermostat down or off and then after the fan quits running you can turn the power off. That is what I do on mine.

 

[johno]

The way these heaters are set up you would have to turn the thermostat down or off and then after the fan quits running you can turn the power off. That is what I do on mine.

Great.

Are the R and W terminals the right ones for the thermo?