Wood stove installation help
- Thread starter Bigpee733
- Start date
Fyrme
Well-known member
I would get you a fairly thick piece of sheet metal, 3/16"-1/4" would be perfect. Take it to a metal shop and bend a 45˚ on either side and put a few inches behind the stove, and a few inches off the wall. It will greatly help radiate the heat out into the center of the shop, rather than behind and straight up. Also use a single wall flue until you get to the roof penetration, then use a minimum double wall. You didn't say how big your shop is, but those two suggestions will help get that heat where it needs to go. If your shop is very big, that little guy will need all the help it can get. Insulation on those walls will help a ton as well.
So your triple wall goes from the top of the box, all the way up to the vent cap? And also, I've seen these pipe boots that are very cheap, and are supposed to seal the roof up very well, what did you use to seal up your roof? Thanks for the info and pics!
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Fyrme
Well-known member
Another option is a short block wall behind the stove. The idea is protecting the wall, AND getting something close to the stove that will retain and radiate heat.
Fyrme
Well-known member
These look good, anybody use them? http://www.pipebootexpress.com
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I hope that's not what he means. That is a waste of heat and money if so.
So how much insulated pipe do you think I would need? Just a couple feet where it goes through the boot?
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I bought a metal roof flashing with the malleable base from Mueller's steel buildings and used a generic metal storm cover over that.
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Triple wall gives you a 2" minimum clearance, so enough pipe to go from the top of the support box (fits flush to the inside of the ceiling), out the roof and 2.5' above the building peak. triple wall was $125 for a 36" piece plus you will need a triple wall cap $70.
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Have any pics of the roof side? That sounds about like what I'm thinking of doing.
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It was bad enough having to climb up the ladder, I forgot to get any topside pics. If I can get my Sherpa to go on the roof again I'll get some. I can jump out of a plane but I don't like heights.
The ceiling support box by dura vent has a built in 2" clearance to combustible already.
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Fyrme
Well-known member
Any reason you have to go out the roof? Could you go out the side up by the eave or top of the wall? Roof penetrations on metal buildings scare me. Especially if you have vinyl backed insulation under the roof metal. If it leaks, you may never know it because it will just run down the vinyl til it gets to the fascia and rot it out. If no insulation, you would catch a leak.
I thought about through the wall, but for one, I don't want the all the 90 degree bends in the pipe, for 2, I don't want 20 feet of pipe on the side of my building, and for 3, it seems like that's a lot of wasted heat! I don't have any insulation, so any leaks would be found pretty quick.
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Also, I don't have a ceiling in the building either, so I could probably just make some kind of support for the insulated pipe. So I would probably need about 3 sections of the insulated pipe! Jesus, there is just no good way to do this cheap is there? Lol
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readhead
Well-known member
No insulation, metal roof, I think I would run the single wall through the roof. Check the code requirements because you will need to stay a good distance from the wood purlins.
Remember to run the laps down so you don't get condensation coming out of the joints.
Remember to run the laps down so you don't get condensation coming out of the joints.
Fyrme
Well-known member
You didn't understand me completely. 90% of the pipe which is single wall stays in the shop. You don't exit until you get to the top of the wall. Then you have one single wall elbow, into a double wall out the wall, (no insulation or wood on the walls so you can get away with it) far enough to clear your eave, if you have one, then another elbow, piece of pipe and a cap.
I know it is more components than going straight up, but it would be cheaper I'd think.
Attachments
Use single wall black pipe until you get the ceiling, or where the ceiling will be. As long as you maintain, the correct distance from combustibles, you should be alright.
The single wall pipe will radiate heat into the shop unlike the insulated pipe.
Fyrme
Well-known member
Well in that case, through the roof might be the best option. I'd start by stopping by a fireplace supply and ask them what the correct materials would be necessary to make a roof penetration and go from there. I've seen some hack jobs on roofs that look awful, probably leak, and have rust streaks running down the roof surface.
This one on the other hand.....
I'd almost be willing to poke that right through the roof on the front of my shop. Thing is **** as hell.
Crfdell
Well-known member
Depending on where you live codes are slighlty different if the unit is not a certified appliance min clearance from combustible materials is 48" you can reduce clearances by adding a heat sheild but it must be of a correct size and have the proper spacing from the wall if you provide specifics i can give you more detail. In a shop the stove must be 18" off the floor as well as protected from accidentally being run into.
What does your insurance co require?
What does your insurance co require?
I've read about all the codes a what not, but I'm gonna say right now, my dad had been burning a stove in his gas and oil and brake cleaner filled garage since I was 2 (I'm 34 now) and it's too close to the wall, with no backer, and sits right on the floor, and there has never been anything close to even a close call. As for the insurance, I'm too scared to call them! Lol
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AnthonyJ124
Well-known member
Well, IF something ever happens you'll probably call insurance- right? They can deny claims because you had a woodstove installed out of code. BUT I don't want to be THAT GUY. It's your space, do what you're comfortable with.
As far as installation ideas, the hearth.com forums are FULL of good info/people.
As far as installation ideas, the hearth.com forums are FULL of good info/people.
Yeah, I guess that would be a bridge I'd have to "burn" when I get there! For what it's worth, I was talking to my dad, he has a wood burner in his basement as well, insurance told him, we don't want to know about it. If something was to happen, we'd pay it, and then cancel you! Im sure that happens a lot. I'd be willing to bet a lot of people that put stoves in, probably don't even realize they are supposed to let their insurance company know.
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kelpaso1
MEMBER EMERITUS
You are only allowed a maximum of 2 90 degree elbows in your chimney system. The less the better. also running most of the pipe indoor creates a better draft. I don't know why stove makers make them with a rear outlet as you have to start with a 90 right off the bat
Shop Specialties
Well-known member
Selkirk Ultra-Temp.
Starting from top to bottom.
Cap
Dektite - #9 fits 8 inch Ultra Temp perfect. #8 for 6 inch Ultra Temp.
4' (or less depending on roof) Ultra Temp
RSP - Roof Support Package. 18" piece of Ultra Temp with wings. Wings rest on top of roof supporting pipe.
DSAC - Dripless Stove Pipe Adapter with Coupler.
Single wall to stove as long as you maintain 18" from combustibles.
Starting from top to bottom.
Cap
Dektite - #9 fits 8 inch Ultra Temp perfect. #8 for 6 inch Ultra Temp.
4' (or less depending on roof) Ultra Temp
RSP - Roof Support Package. 18" piece of Ultra Temp with wings. Wings rest on top of roof supporting pipe.
DSAC - Dripless Stove Pipe Adapter with Coupler.
Single wall to stove as long as you maintain 18" from combustibles.
I went out today and bought a dura vent through the ceiling kit, 14 feet of single wall stove pipe and 1 90 degree elbow for the inside of the building, and I also bought 4 ft of stainless steel insulated triple wall, for the support box up. All I need now is a boot for the roof, and I'll be good to go! Might as well do it right, but my God that stuff is high!
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Fyrme
Well-known member
Great! now get to work and post your finished pics
That's good as the snow is starting to fly.
One thing you may also want to do is add a general location to your profile. When you ask questions like this, it helps other members answer your questions properly.
One thing you may also want to do is add a general location to your profile. When you ask questions like this, it helps other members answer your questions properly.
Thanks for the heads up, I got my location changed! Also, the ebay guy came back with a counter offer, but it was still too high, so I declined and ordered one from the other place last night. I'll keep everybody posted!
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Highbeam
Well-known member
I sure do like my stove in the shop. Remember, the stove provides the heat, not the pipe. All vertical and through the roof is the superior installation.
mhoss44
Well-known member
@930dreamer.....I am an old Paratrooper and hate climbing on roofs. Especially slick metal. Hahahaha
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20 years on the truck, every fire we went to, the owner was totally surprised when their woodstove caught the building on fire. Every one had a wood stove that was not installed as per code. Most were caused by lack of clearance. But, hey it is your house, so you get to burn it down if you want.
klogan121
Well-known member
The guy wants to install this thing as safely as possible! That is why he is asking a lot of questions! You think he wants to burn it down??
