kwoswalt99
Well-known member
In the shop, we've got a radial arm saw, but it hasn't been used in years. Use our sled on the Unisaw all the time.
Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips
- Thread starter jimreed2160
- Start date
In the shop, we've got a radial arm saw, but it hasn't been used in years. Use our sled on the Unisaw all the time.
Well paused on the dresser for the wife to work on other Christmas gifts that have to be done by this coming weekend. So I made some wooden bottle opens using some oak and a masonry cut nail for family and godfather. I put either last names or cattle brand on there with a wood burner.
The 4 I made, each one is a little different but same concept
Then for the guy who got me started in woodworking, my grandpa, I am in the process of making a joiner/cabinet makers mallet.
This was done 100% by hand no machines. I will post a pic when it's all done
Zach
The 4 I made, each one is a little different but same concept
Then for the guy who got me started in woodworking, my grandpa, I am in the process of making a joiner/cabinet makers mallet.
This was done 100% by hand no machines. I will post a pic when it's all done
Zach
Attachments
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Ztorres--I love those bottle openers and need to try to copy your clever design. As for the mallet--it looks outstanding. Great work.
trainer
Well-known member
One way to deal with wood movement is to encase everything in epoxy.
on a cedar strip canoe, all of the woodwork is sealed so that the moisture content cannot change. I built this one a few years ago.
Full thread is here
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101249&highlight=wood+fabrication
on a cedar strip canoe, all of the woodwork is sealed so that the moisture content cannot change. I built this one a few years ago.
Full thread is here
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=101249&highlight=wood+fabrication
Last edited:
ez-duzit
Well-known member
tr--nice work.
Craptain
Well-known member
Nice work trainer. I have built a couple of boats from plywood but not yet done the strip plank. I have a stock of air dried cedar in 12' and 16' boards enough to build either a decent sized kayak or canoe. I even have all the tools I would need. Now all I need is to get rid of the backlog of work and home projects.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
For those interested in wood movement and joint strength, here are some pictures of my failures. Well not all of my failures, that would take some real bandwidth.
If you did not see the discussion earlier today about humidity and wood, look back to this morning's posts.
The first two are a failed biscuit joint on the end piece of a wide panel. This is the top on a paduak cedar chest. The panel grew about 1/16" on each side pushing the biscuits out of the joint.
The next two are of the hand cut dovetails on my workbench apron. The top is about 40" wide made of 2 1/2" thick maple and a wide sandwich of walnut for the dog strips on each side. The bench grew a total of 3/16" on each side. This popped the dovetails out of the joint about 1/8" or so. Not horrible and no functional problem but disappointing and cosmeticly unappealing.
The last are of a 52" wide 3 inch thick maple table top. You may recall the story that the top was to be a door on a custom house but it was rejected. So it was gifted to me and I edged it in curly maple. Well this was in AZ. Not knowing I would ever move it to NC, the humidity grew it 3/16" and popped the biscuit joints. This is on my To-Do list to rabbet the ends and make tenons for a proper breadboard end on each end.
Go ahead, start laughing and snickering!
If you did not see the discussion earlier today about humidity and wood, look back to this morning's posts.
The first two are a failed biscuit joint on the end piece of a wide panel. This is the top on a paduak cedar chest. The panel grew about 1/16" on each side pushing the biscuits out of the joint.
The next two are of the hand cut dovetails on my workbench apron. The top is about 40" wide made of 2 1/2" thick maple and a wide sandwich of walnut for the dog strips on each side. The bench grew a total of 3/16" on each side. This popped the dovetails out of the joint about 1/8" or so. Not horrible and no functional problem but disappointing and cosmeticly unappealing.
The last are of a 52" wide 3 inch thick maple table top. You may recall the story that the top was to be a door on a custom house but it was rejected. So it was gifted to me and I edged it in curly maple. Well this was in AZ. Not knowing I would ever move it to NC, the humidity grew it 3/16" and popped the biscuit joints. This is on my To-Do list to rabbet the ends and make tenons for a proper breadboard end on each end.
Go ahead, start laughing and snickering!
Attachments
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Z: interesting design and i'm guessing it works good too. what did you use for the metal and where do you buy them cause they look like what i need for some hammer handles?
Trainer: nice looking boat and do you still own it or did you build it to sell?
Turbo: thanks for the pictures. on the last two pictures of your table's edge didn't the wood shrink? or am i looking at it wrong cause you said it grew?
talk about extreme temp and climate changes. not sure where you were in Arizona, but my parents used to own a little condo north of Phoenix and they would come home every year in April or May when the temps would get to 100 degrees for a week in a row and then drive back in October when temps would be below 100 again. i know several years the temps in the Phoenix area were in the 120's so that can't be good for wood or does AC keep everything just right?
Trainer: nice looking boat and do you still own it or did you build it to sell?
Turbo: thanks for the pictures. on the last two pictures of your table's edge didn't the wood shrink? or am i looking at it wrong cause you said it grew?
talk about extreme temp and climate changes. not sure where you were in Arizona, but my parents used to own a little condo north of Phoenix and they would come home every year in April or May when the temps would get to 100 degrees for a week in a row and then drive back in October when temps would be below 100 again. i know several years the temps in the Phoenix area were in the 120's so that can't be good for wood or does AC keep everything just right?
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Drives,
The 3" thick table grew in its width. The edging did not shrink in its length. Remember my discussion on drinking straws.
The problem with Phoenix to NC is not temperature (at least for indoor furniture). We had good HVAC so it was never 118*F in the house. But the humidity in PHX is single digit most of the year except for August when the monsoon season hits it to a whopping 35 %. Whatever it was in August at its max, it was half what it is routinely, year round in NC.
The 3" thick table grew in its width. The edging did not shrink in its length. Remember my discussion on drinking straws.
The problem with Phoenix to NC is not temperature (at least for indoor furniture). We had good HVAC so it was never 118*F in the house. But the humidity in PHX is single digit most of the year except for August when the monsoon season hits it to a whopping 35 %. Whatever it was in August at its max, it was half what it is routinely, year round in NC.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Turbo: sorry i'm still learning. yes that makes sense. i don't know how you lived in Phoenix year round cause we have a month of mid 80's and 90's and it's too hot. if it keeps getting warmer like it has the last couple years with 90's for a couple months we'll have to maybe put AC in the budget which we've never had at our home here.
ALL: well i got all the wood cut for my door's trim project and as i was getting ready to clean up the old wood to nail on the new material i couldn't locate my little pancake compressor and nailers. i moved them from their original spot they had been sitting for maybe 20 years while I was ORGANIZING and i know i stuffed them in the back of one of my storage units so the search continues. i can hardly wait until i get ORGANIZED and i know it will always be a work in progress, but i'm getting closer.
cheers
ALL: well i got all the wood cut for my door's trim project and as i was getting ready to clean up the old wood to nail on the new material i couldn't locate my little pancake compressor and nailers. i moved them from their original spot they had been sitting for maybe 20 years while I was ORGANIZING and i know i stuffed them in the back of one of my storage units so the search continues. i can hardly wait until i get ORGANIZED and i know it will always be a work in progress, but i'm getting closer.
cheers
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Drives--And I thought I was organizationally challenged! How could you LOSE a pancake compressor? 
drivesitfar
Well-known member
JIM: good question. i'm not proud enough of my current situation to take pictures, but imagine having a working shop and garage and then helping close two steel fabrication companies that were in business for over 100 years last year where i got more than a few things to store.
needless to say if it's where I think it is it might be behind 30 tons of steel that i need to move most of to get at it. might be time to buy a new one or find a Craigslist deal since mine is 20+ years old. or maybe i'll get lucky today, but it's suppose to snow so i can't pull things outside.
needless to say if it's where I think it is it might be behind 30 tons of steel that i need to move most of to get at it. might be time to buy a new one or find a Craigslist deal since mine is 20+ years old. or maybe i'll get lucky today, but it's suppose to snow so i can't pull things outside.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
SNOW! Man you better move to PHX.
What piece are you talking about?
56vette461
Well-known member
drivesitfar, I feel your pain. I have a 16 x 30 storage unit that is primarily for which ever half of my car project I'm not working on. However with collections of tool odds and ends from my dad, my BIL and a couple of long retired machinest friends, I have tons of stuff. Loosing a pancake compressor is simple. I even have an old craftsman three drawer work bench in there some place that I haven't seen in a couple of years.
trainer
Well-known member
Drives: I've still got that boat. I built it to be easily transported on the rack of my ATV into remote fishing lakes. It gets quite a bit of abuse and has held up well.
A table top is a really good place to use furniture grade plywood instead of solid wood. I made a 7'x3.5' farmhouse style table out of oak veneered MDF, with a red oak apron and edging. the top is solidly glued down.
It lives in an unheated cabin that sees extremes of temperature and humidity with absolutely no issues in 10+ years.
A table top is a really good place to use furniture grade plywood instead of solid wood. I made a 7'x3.5' farmhouse style table out of oak veneered MDF, with a red oak apron and edging. the top is solidly glued down.
It lives in an unheated cabin that sees extremes of temperature and humidity with absolutely no issues in 10+ years.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Turbo: i know winters in Phoenix sound nice, but even though my parents owned a condo we could have stayed at for 20 years until selling it a few years ago we never borrowed it. my wife doesn't like the desert look since she grew up in Southern California. about all she can take is a week at 80 degrees not 110+. snow is good for inside work.
now i hear South Carolina isn't a bad spot to retire or would you know?
Z: the metal piece that opens the bottles that looks like a wedge or a nail? can you buy them or did you just have a few?
Trainer: that boat is cool. great thought about what material to build a workbench out of and if you can post up a few pictures of yours that you might have saved on your laptop that would be great.
Vette: sadly i haven't found it yet, but i'm sure as i start putting stuff away and moving things i will. there is the thought that i loaned it to one of my friends or kids, but it's been so long since i used it i can't quite remember doing that. thanks for sharing my pain and best of luck finding that old Craftsman.
cheers all
now i hear South Carolina isn't a bad spot to retire or would you know?
Z: the metal piece that opens the bottles that looks like a wedge or a nail? can you buy them or did you just have a few?
Trainer: that boat is cool. great thought about what material to build a workbench out of and if you can post up a few pictures of yours that you might have saved on your laptop that would be great.
Vette: sadly i haven't found it yet, but i'm sure as i start putting stuff away and moving things i will. there is the thought that i loaned it to one of my friends or kids, but it's been so long since i used it i can't quite remember doing that. thanks for sharing my pain and best of luck finding that old Craftsman.
cheers all
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Drives,
I'm not sure about retirement in SC vs NC. It is so much more than climate to make that decision. If it were climate alone NC wins. But I'm not sure about cost of living (prob lower in SC?) or taxes or other things that help answer that one. I know alot of people considering TX because of favorable taxes.
OK. From a WW standpoint, would you rather hand plane walnut from NC, oak from SC, or gnarly rock hard mesquite from TX? Probably not a fair comparison.
I'm not sure about retirement in SC vs NC. It is so much more than climate to make that decision. If it were climate alone NC wins. But I'm not sure about cost of living (prob lower in SC?) or taxes or other things that help answer that one. I know alot of people considering TX because of favorable taxes.
OK. From a WW standpoint, would you rather hand plane walnut from NC, oak from SC, or gnarly rock hard mesquite from TX? Probably not a fair comparison.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
More on wood moisture. I notice my workbench top moving from season to season. Right now, the top has swelled and moved past the breadboard end on both sides. Here is the side I work on.
Here is the far side. Notice that the floating tenon is attached to the benchtop.
They went to great lengths to engineer this bench. It has lived in many unheated garages and has held up well. The top is positioned on the stand using three or four large cone shaped dowels. These fit into rounded pockets on the underside of the bench and it stays put by gravity. That is not so hard because the top weighs 200+ lbs.
Wood tops move. More info on that later.
Here is the far side. Notice that the floating tenon is attached to the benchtop.
They went to great lengths to engineer this bench. It has lived in many unheated garages and has held up well. The top is positioned on the stand using three or four large cone shaped dowels. These fit into rounded pockets on the underside of the bench and it stays put by gravity. That is not so hard because the top weighs 200+ lbs.
Wood tops move. More info on that later.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Doll bed project
Today's project is to finish the doll's bed for my sister. It was originally given to my older sister over 60 years ago. She passed it on to my little sister who passed it on to my girls. Over the years, it got played down and the pieces were in my shop project pile for about the last 25 years. I repaired it in the spring and a friend has been working on a mattress and other bedding. She returned it today and the ball is back in my court.
Family history is that the bed was purchased and my dad made the top tester frame so it would match the bed that he and my mom used. Problem is that the finials are missing. Those things always go MIA. I made a set before and they got lost. Time for another set. Say hello to Mr WoodLathe.
I found a suitable piece of walnut and mounted it. The first step is to round it over. I like to use my supergouge.
This part goes quickly.
Then I had to square off the ends. For this operation, I used a skew chisel and a large scraper.
I measured off six inches and divided the piece into 1 1/2" sections. The first step was to mark it with chalk while the lathe was spinning.
Next I used the parting tool to make a cut at each chalk mark and measured the cuts with a caliper.
Here is a good shot of the parting tool.
Next I measured the diameters and found that the left end pieces were larger than the right end pieces.
Finished with step one. I have four equally sized pieces.
The next step is to design and cut a finial on one of the sections. After that I can make a story stick and repeat the finial three times. A story stick is a piece of wood that has marks at each lathe chisel transition. The task is to hold the stick to the spinning wood and transfer the story stick marks to the project using the sharp parting tool. Then use the parting tool and the skew to make a divot at the transition. The depth of this groove should be a measurement transferred from the design to the caliper and then to the new piece.
Once you have transferred the story stick marks and those marks are cut to the finished depth, you can begin to remove waste between transition points. It might sound difficult, but it is really pretty easy. The wise turner methodically breaks the complex turning into small and simple tasks. Some are straight and some have curves. Some need gouges and some need skew cuts.
Stay tuned as we move on to part II. But please be patient. I am doing this in real time and may not finish today.
Today's project is to finish the doll's bed for my sister. It was originally given to my older sister over 60 years ago. She passed it on to my little sister who passed it on to my girls. Over the years, it got played down and the pieces were in my shop project pile for about the last 25 years. I repaired it in the spring and a friend has been working on a mattress and other bedding. She returned it today and the ball is back in my court.
Family history is that the bed was purchased and my dad made the top tester frame so it would match the bed that he and my mom used. Problem is that the finials are missing. Those things always go MIA. I made a set before and they got lost. Time for another set. Say hello to Mr WoodLathe.
I found a suitable piece of walnut and mounted it. The first step is to round it over. I like to use my supergouge.
This part goes quickly.
Then I had to square off the ends. For this operation, I used a skew chisel and a large scraper.
I measured off six inches and divided the piece into 1 1/2" sections. The first step was to mark it with chalk while the lathe was spinning.
Next I used the parting tool to make a cut at each chalk mark and measured the cuts with a caliper.
Here is a good shot of the parting tool.
Next I measured the diameters and found that the left end pieces were larger than the right end pieces.
Finished with step one. I have four equally sized pieces.
The next step is to design and cut a finial on one of the sections. After that I can make a story stick and repeat the finial three times. A story stick is a piece of wood that has marks at each lathe chisel transition. The task is to hold the stick to the spinning wood and transfer the story stick marks to the project using the sharp parting tool. Then use the parting tool and the skew to make a divot at the transition. The depth of this groove should be a measurement transferred from the design to the caliper and then to the new piece.
Once you have transferred the story stick marks and those marks are cut to the finished depth, you can begin to remove waste between transition points. It might sound difficult, but it is really pretty easy. The wise turner methodically breaks the complex turning into small and simple tasks. Some are straight and some have curves. Some need gouges and some need skew cuts.
Stay tuned as we move on to part II. But please be patient. I am doing this in real time and may not finish today.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Dollhouse bed finials
I had some workshop time this afternoon so I continued with the finials. First I sketched a rough pattern on paper. This is as close as I remember the originals that my dad made. One must be careful with children's toys and avoid sharp points. When you scale Sheraton style furniture down to doll size, you have the advantage of rounding and blunting. All you need to do is give the impression of a fine turning and the mind's eye will do the rest. That hits two birds with one stone because you get a nice looking turning that is also safe and not likely to cause puncture injuries.
After I sketched out the turning, I made a story stick and marked the transitions for transfer to the workpiece.
I then turned the first one. It turned out pleasing to me so I transferred the marks to the other pieces.
The first step was to replace the pencil marks with points from the parting chisel.
And then I began turning each piece.
Getting closer.
Then comes sanding. Remove the tool rest and CAREFULLY sand. This is not the safest operation around. I exercise extreme caution. No long sleeves. Plenty of places for hands and fingers to go. Avoid getting wrapped up.
And then it is ready for finishing. I screwed it to a stick and got ready for the poly spray.
I like to keep pen making supplies on hand. The pen finish can be applied while the work spins on the lathe. Pretty neat. Bonus is that it is dry almost immediately because it is shellac based. BUT I am all out and have to use rattlecan poly.
Next step is to CAREFULLY liberate them with a saw. Thanks for watching.
I had some workshop time this afternoon so I continued with the finials. First I sketched a rough pattern on paper. This is as close as I remember the originals that my dad made. One must be careful with children's toys and avoid sharp points. When you scale Sheraton style furniture down to doll size, you have the advantage of rounding and blunting. All you need to do is give the impression of a fine turning and the mind's eye will do the rest. That hits two birds with one stone because you get a nice looking turning that is also safe and not likely to cause puncture injuries.
After I sketched out the turning, I made a story stick and marked the transitions for transfer to the workpiece.
I then turned the first one. It turned out pleasing to me so I transferred the marks to the other pieces.
The first step was to replace the pencil marks with points from the parting chisel.
And then I began turning each piece.
Getting closer.
Then comes sanding. Remove the tool rest and CAREFULLY sand. This is not the safest operation around. I exercise extreme caution. No long sleeves. Plenty of places for hands and fingers to go. Avoid getting wrapped up.
And then it is ready for finishing. I screwed it to a stick and got ready for the poly spray.
I like to keep pen making supplies on hand. The pen finish can be applied while the work spins on the lathe. Pretty neat. Bonus is that it is dry almost immediately because it is shellac based. BUT I am all out and have to use rattlecan poly.
Next step is to CAREFULLY liberate them with a saw. Thanks for watching.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
I started turning with a Craftsman lathe that my dad gave me. It was a good starter lathe and I used it for several years. Alas, it was not able to make the move to FL 13 yrs ago. I replaced it with the Jet soon after relocating and have really enjoyed it. The CM had a longer bed and I was able to do table legs with it. That was nice but I don't make big stuff anymore. The Jet is much nicer than the CM. It has lots of power and I really like its compact size. Fit and finish is nice and it takes standard accessories (I have lots).
So yes, I like the Jet. If you have space get the big one. If not, the little one is nice. BTW, it is sitting on a HF table frame that I beefed up with plywood.
So yes, I like the Jet. If you have space get the big one. If not, the little one is nice. BTW, it is sitting on a HF table frame that I beefed up with plywood.
Craptain
Well-known member
I have the Jet mini lathe too. I don't need any bigger but the nice thing is that I can get a bed extension if ever I do want to do longer work.
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jim: thanks for the lathe lessons. i'm sure we can talk more about how to use them in the future and lots and lots of great projects can be made if a member owns one. i sort of remember the copying method you mention, but would probably need more information or a video to fully understand it.
good luck on the doll's bed which is a cool project and sounds like a lot of family history there.
Z: yep that's the part and i'm thinking those might work ok to use as wedges on my hammer handle replacements.
ALL: well i sort of got lucky and only had to move about 50 boxes of STUFF yesterday to find my little Porter pancake compressor with to small Porter nail guns. i've never had an issue with this set up that i used to use a lot more and i maybe bought at Home Depot 20 years ago for about $250.
speaking of putting up molding it's probably too cold for me to paint the molding this time before installing so i'll get it up and paint it after Christmas. just wondering if any of you woodworkers paint your moldings prior to installation or do you paint in place? or do you stain yours?
i'm sure glad i didn't have to move many tons of steel to get at another location where i thought my compressor was. WHEW, but i'm still sore. i did get a little more ORGANIZED so that was a good thing.
good luck on the doll's bed which is a cool project and sounds like a lot of family history there.
Z: yep that's the part and i'm thinking those might work ok to use as wedges on my hammer handle replacements.
ALL: well i sort of got lucky and only had to move about 50 boxes of STUFF yesterday to find my little Porter pancake compressor with to small Porter nail guns. i've never had an issue with this set up that i used to use a lot more and i maybe bought at Home Depot 20 years ago for about $250.
speaking of putting up molding it's probably too cold for me to paint the molding this time before installing so i'll get it up and paint it after Christmas. just wondering if any of you woodworkers paint your moldings prior to installation or do you paint in place? or do you stain yours?
i'm sure glad i didn't have to move many tons of steel to get at another location where i thought my compressor was. WHEW, but i'm still sore. i did get a little more ORGANIZED so that was a good thing.
Attachments
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Drives--Most of my molding is stained and yes I finish it before installing. I installed some painted molding in the bath, but it was at least primed. Trim is a lot easier to paint first. Since you are doing a door it shouldn't be too bad. Except that I would paint trim with semi gloss and walls flat. Walls also might be different color. That means extra careful painting is in store.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jim: i'd definitely prefer to paint trim prior to installation and just do nail heads and other touch ups, but i've got 20 or so people coming over for Christmas that won't care if it's not painted, but it will look a lot nicer if just installed.
plus painting this in the garage at temps in the 30's won't turn out great and i'm with a cat and a daughter in a wheelchair in the house i don't have a spot to paint inside prior to installation.
thanks for the help
BTW i'm not certain what you are making on your lathe, but i always love your lessons.
ALL: for all you woodworkers i just started a thread called BUFFING 101 that i'd love to see some woodworkers mention how they make their wood shine on it. it's not only for BUFFING so sanding, shining up on your lathe, oiling and hand buffing and the rest are all great to know, learn and teach.
cheers
plus painting this in the garage at temps in the 30's won't turn out great and i'm with a cat and a daughter in a wheelchair in the house i don't have a spot to paint inside prior to installation.
thanks for the help
BTW i'm not certain what you are making on your lathe, but i always love your lessons.
ALL: for all you woodworkers i just started a thread called BUFFING 101 that i'd love to see some woodworkers mention how they make their wood shine on it. it's not only for BUFFING so sanding, shining up on your lathe, oiling and hand buffing and the rest are all great to know, learn and teach.
cheers
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
Sofa Table
I built this table about 25 years ago. The only hand work was the hand-rubbed finish on the top. I can't take any credit for the legs - they were store bought. The only thing I did to them was cut the mortises and prepare them for the finish. You may notice that he molding on the edges of the top look like they are upside down. They are. It was on purpose. Honest. I wanted an oriental look Hence the lamp and the Madame Butterfly statue. My wife will shoot me if she sees that I posted that second picture. I left it in as a cautionary note to bear in mind during the design phase: Things collect dust. The last picture is of the finish on the top. My photography skills were not up to the task. The depth and warmth does not show well. Hand rubbing takes a lot of time and it's a lot of work but it's the finish that semi-gloss only wishes it looked like. I put in the apron detail because of the bead at the bottom. Just one more way that beading dresses up your work.
Drives: I'll post details of the hand-rubbed process on the new Buffing thread.
Attachments
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Nice work on the table.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
CRS--Thanks for the pictures. I like the bead detail--it softens the edge and gives it interest. I think details like that really add to the charm of a piece of furniture. It is best when done like you did and no one notices the bead. They like the look but cannot put their finger on it. Well done!
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
EZ and Jim: Thanks. I usually favor understated elegance but over-the-top once in a while has its charms too.
Drives et al: You were asking about where people get their wood. I have a tip that may help. I just walked in the door after returning from yet another estate sale. There was nothing in the advertised pictures that made you think that there might be wood or woodworking tools. I poked around anyhow and found three bundles of wood. I ended up buying approx. 10 board feet of 4 quarter walnut (in 30 inch sections) plus another few feet of 2x2 and 3x3 mahogany all for $5.
Drives et al: You were asking about where people get their wood. I have a tip that may help. I just walked in the door after returning from yet another estate sale. There was nothing in the advertised pictures that made you think that there might be wood or woodworking tools. I poked around anyhow and found three bundles of wood. I ended up buying approx. 10 board feet of 4 quarter walnut (in 30 inch sections) plus another few feet of 2x2 and 3x3 mahogany all for $5.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Doll Bed Final
It is time to put this project to bed.
I was able to spray poly on the final turnings last night.
The first operation is to cut them apart. But the turning is round and will not stay still so I improvised and used a scrap of chair rail molding.
That little Japanese cutoff saw has teeth that are sharper than a teething toddler.
It left a clean cut.
Now it is time to put a hole in the bottom of each. I chose the lathe for this task. The lathe comes with a rod that can be inserted in the headstock shaft. Tap gently and the headstock will come out.
Now I can insert my chuck.
Pay attention when you buy your lathe. Make sure you know and like the standards used for fittings. I like this lathe because it is Morse Taper (MT) and those standard tooling accessories fit it.
So here is the setup.
I have an 1/8" drill bit in the lathe headstock chuck and the workpiece is wrapped in an old sock and held in a woodscrew. I am using the sock to keep from compressing the wood and leaving dents.
I used this setup to drill holes in each finial. All I had to do was make sure the drill bit was lined up on the hole mark and then slide the woodscrew. It went quickly.
I looked for a 1/8" dowel and found that my kitchen bamboo skewers were just right. Here I used the improvised cut off fixture to cut some tenons.
And then glue them in place.
Here is the trial fit.
So it will reach the 70s today and I can spray more poly on the finials and wrap this thing up. Will be looking for a box so I can mail it to my sister for a Christmas surprise.
It is time to put this project to bed.
I was able to spray poly on the final turnings last night.
The first operation is to cut them apart. But the turning is round and will not stay still so I improvised and used a scrap of chair rail molding.
That little Japanese cutoff saw has teeth that are sharper than a teething toddler.
It left a clean cut.
Now it is time to put a hole in the bottom of each. I chose the lathe for this task. The lathe comes with a rod that can be inserted in the headstock shaft. Tap gently and the headstock will come out.
Now I can insert my chuck.
Pay attention when you buy your lathe. Make sure you know and like the standards used for fittings. I like this lathe because it is Morse Taper (MT) and those standard tooling accessories fit it.
So here is the setup.
I have an 1/8" drill bit in the lathe headstock chuck and the workpiece is wrapped in an old sock and held in a woodscrew. I am using the sock to keep from compressing the wood and leaving dents.
I used this setup to drill holes in each finial. All I had to do was make sure the drill bit was lined up on the hole mark and then slide the woodscrew. It went quickly.
I looked for a 1/8" dowel and found that my kitchen bamboo skewers were just right. Here I used the improvised cut off fixture to cut some tenons.
And then glue them in place.
Here is the trial fit.
So it will reach the 70s today and I can spray more poly on the finials and wrap this thing up. Will be looking for a box so I can mail it to my sister for a Christmas surprise.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
BJ--Thanks for your kind words. I think my friend did a nice job on the covers. She might just find a special gift under her Christmas tree.
All--Lumber pricing can be hard to understand. Almost every processing step from tree to lumber causes the product to shrink. One thousand board feet purchased on the stump can morph into five hundred board feet on the sales floor. All of this loss has to be accounted for and there are many different methods. Here is a note from a woodsellers website that helps explain the difference between "gross tally" and "net tally".
Apples to Apples:
When lumber is dried, it shrinks. If you put 1,000 BF in a kiln to be dried, what you take out will measure only about 920 BF, depending on the species. Some mills will sell this 920 BF to retailers as 1,000 BF, in which case the retailer will do the same on their end. This is known as a ” gross tally “. We sell our lumber as a net tally, meaning if you order 200 BF, you will receive 200 BF. Be sure to ask if you are paying the gross tally, or the net tally next time you are shopping for hardwood lumber.
So ask questions of your woodseller. Try to understand how his selling price is determined. They deal with this issue daily and are more than happy to share their pricing calculations with you. A little communication can help you avoid big surprises.
Time to make some shavings.
All--Lumber pricing can be hard to understand. Almost every processing step from tree to lumber causes the product to shrink. One thousand board feet purchased on the stump can morph into five hundred board feet on the sales floor. All of this loss has to be accounted for and there are many different methods. Here is a note from a woodsellers website that helps explain the difference between "gross tally" and "net tally".
Apples to Apples:
When lumber is dried, it shrinks. If you put 1,000 BF in a kiln to be dried, what you take out will measure only about 920 BF, depending on the species. Some mills will sell this 920 BF to retailers as 1,000 BF, in which case the retailer will do the same on their end. This is known as a ” gross tally “. We sell our lumber as a net tally, meaning if you order 200 BF, you will receive 200 BF. Be sure to ask if you are paying the gross tally, or the net tally next time you are shopping for hardwood lumber.
So ask questions of your woodseller. Try to understand how his selling price is determined. They deal with this issue daily and are more than happy to share their pricing calculations with you. A little communication can help you avoid big surprises.
Time to make some shavings.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jim: i agree that fix makes that little bed look a lot nicer. i have a question and i hope it doesn't sound too dumb, but what is the method you mark your center when you just put a dot there?
also did you end up trimming the dowels or since you hand cut them did they need to be that long for extra support?
WELL DONE!!
ALL: I had a couple hours to put up the molding so while it's not perfect and i still need to fill nail holes and paint it is what it is. if I did this more often i'm sure i could do a LOT BETTER. not too bad since i hadn't used my nail guns in maybe 10 years and i only shot 2 nails through the sides, but i do have limited spots to nail cause this door used to be a window in an exterior concrete block 8 inch wall.
materials:
4.5 and 3.5 inch MDF
4.5 inch squares for uppper corners
tools used were:
Makita miter saw
Fein with a couple different blades for cleaning up old frame and cutting out for BIL's 1/16 over hang of my steel plate.
Porter pancake compresser with 1.5 inch gun and 2.5 inch gun
level
hammer and punch to fix miscues with nailer
nippers to pull a couple nails that i tried to nail through steel plate (forgot)
cheers
also did you end up trimming the dowels or since you hand cut them did they need to be that long for extra support?
WELL DONE!!
ALL: I had a couple hours to put up the molding so while it's not perfect and i still need to fill nail holes and paint it is what it is. if I did this more often i'm sure i could do a LOT BETTER. not too bad since i hadn't used my nail guns in maybe 10 years and i only shot 2 nails through the sides, but i do have limited spots to nail cause this door used to be a window in an exterior concrete block 8 inch wall.
materials:
4.5 and 3.5 inch MDF
4.5 inch squares for uppper corners
tools used were:
Makita miter saw
Fein with a couple different blades for cleaning up old frame and cutting out for BIL's 1/16 over hang of my steel plate.
Porter pancake compresser with 1.5 inch gun and 2.5 inch gun
level
hammer and punch to fix miscues with nailer
nippers to pull a couple nails that i tried to nail through steel plate (forgot)
cheers
Attachments
trainer
Well-known member
Drives: you really don't want to see my workbench. Its a couple of sawhorses with 3 layers of particle board screwed to the top to hold a vise and everything screwed to the wall for stability. I really need to get some home improvement projects cleared so I can work on some shop improvements. No photos of the farmhouse table at the present.
Jim: nice work on the lathe. I made the mistake of buying a cheap harbor freight style wood lathe. The headstock has a ******* size thread and only works with the accessories that came with it. That said, it has paid for itself by being able to duplicate some stair way spindles and outside porch spindles in my old house.
Lathe work and scroll saw stuff are genres of woodworking that don't really seem to share many skills with other kinds of woodworking. They can both be very relaxing and satisfying ways to spend time in the shop though. Little projects like cheese boards and rolling pins or fish-bonkers are fun to make and give away.
Jim: nice work on the lathe. I made the mistake of buying a cheap harbor freight style wood lathe. The headstock has a ******* size thread and only works with the accessories that came with it. That said, it has paid for itself by being able to duplicate some stair way spindles and outside porch spindles in my old house.
Lathe work and scroll saw stuff are genres of woodworking that don't really seem to share many skills with other kinds of woodworking. They can both be very relaxing and satisfying ways to spend time in the shop though. Little projects like cheese boards and rolling pins or fish-bonkers are fun to make and give away.
Drives - your entryway came out great. Like your floors as well.
Finished up some Trees I made for the wife. They go on the porch and replace the pumpkins I made for the fall. Don't know what I am going to make for the spring. I made all 3 out of a POS 10' board that Lowes calls Knotty pine. Overpriced as well. I need to find some used lumber for my stash.
Cut them out on the bandsaw. Sprayed them with spray bomb rustoleum and then sanded them with 80 grit. They are 36", 30" and 24".
20161208_181638 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
20161208_182206 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
20161208_182658 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
Some in process photos.
Getting some paint.
20161203_140638 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
20161202_164453 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
In this pic you can see the pattern I used to make the trees. Then I just copied the first tree onto the 2nd and 3rd.
20161202_161301 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
20161202_165729 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
Picture of the feet.
20161203_134019 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
Bret
Finished up some Trees I made for the wife. They go on the porch and replace the pumpkins I made for the fall. Don't know what I am going to make for the spring. I made all 3 out of a POS 10' board that Lowes calls Knotty pine. Overpriced as well. I need to find some used lumber for my stash.
Cut them out on the bandsaw. Sprayed them with spray bomb rustoleum and then sanded them with 80 grit. They are 36", 30" and 24".
20161208_181638 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
20161208_182206 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
20161208_182658 by bjohnson388, on FlickrSome in process photos.
Getting some paint.
20161203_140638 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
20161202_164453 by bjohnson388, on FlickrIn this pic you can see the pattern I used to make the trees. Then I just copied the first tree onto the 2nd and 3rd.
20161202_161301 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
20161202_165729 by bjohnson388, on FlickrPicture of the feet.
20161203_134019 by bjohnson388, on FlickrBret
Here are pictures of sleds I have saved in my project folder.
This one is really fancy. It has T-track for stops and bolting accessories to it.
214665702 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
It has T-track in the base for hold downs.
214665726 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
His stop block also has built in measuring.
214665730 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
And he can cut angles with it as well.
214665737 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
Another nice one.
IMG_0381 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
This is another easy one to make.
lw3ucoe by bjohnson388, on Flickr
I really like the size of this one and it has a piece of plexi glass across the kerf.
Sled1 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
Sled4 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
A very simple one you could make in a day.
20080821_resized by bjohnson388, on Flickr
This one is really cool has all kinds of adjustments and you can set up stop blocks. I am not sure what the right side is maybe for a router. I like the way he used Plexiglas to measure out his stop block.
392567 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
A pic of my sled when I made it. Notice it is not near big enough.
Picture 003 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
I will be making a new "Super Sled" here soon as my big one has out lived its life expectancy. I will post it up on this thread when I get it made.
Bret
This one is really fancy. It has T-track for stops and bolting accessories to it.
214665702 by bjohnson388, on FlickrIt has T-track in the base for hold downs.
214665726 by bjohnson388, on FlickrHis stop block also has built in measuring.
214665730 by bjohnson388, on FlickrAnd he can cut angles with it as well.
214665737 by bjohnson388, on FlickrAnother nice one.
IMG_0381 by bjohnson388, on FlickrThis is another easy one to make.
lw3ucoe by bjohnson388, on FlickrI really like the size of this one and it has a piece of plexi glass across the kerf.
Sled1 by bjohnson388, on Flickr
Sled4 by bjohnson388, on FlickrA very simple one you could make in a day.
20080821_resized by bjohnson388, on FlickrThis one is really cool has all kinds of adjustments and you can set up stop blocks. I am not sure what the right side is maybe for a router. I like the way he used Plexiglas to measure out his stop block.
392567 by bjohnson388, on FlickrA pic of my sled when I made it. Notice it is not near big enough.
Picture 003 by bjohnson388, on FlickrI will be making a new "Super Sled" here soon as my big one has out lived its life expectancy. I will post it up on this thread when I get it made.
Bret
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
BJ,
Thanks for posting the sleds. I saw them on your build thread and was impressed. I think that sleds add so much to the accuracy,safety and ease of us of the TS. It should be your first project for the TS.
Question: On the first sled, it looks to be made partly of an exotic wood that looks like fresh cut paduak. Any ideas on how the builder kept it from turning dark, as paduak typically does?
Thanks for posting the sleds. I saw them on your build thread and was impressed. I think that sleds add so much to the accuracy,safety and ease of us of the TS. It should be your first project for the TS.
Question: On the first sled, it looks to be made partly of an exotic wood that looks like fresh cut paduak. Any ideas on how the builder kept it from turning dark, as paduak typically does?