drivesitfar
Well-known member
JIM: great grinder tutorial and love the safety and maintenance tips too!! thanks for the great write up and pictures.
Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips
- Thread starter jimreed2160
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OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Drives--So good to hear from you regularly. Thanks for your kind words.
Stanley #72 chamfer plane
So let's continue with this plane. It worked OK but the blade was really hard to set due to the previous mods.
The PO for some unknown reason felt the need to dig a big hole in the sole but he also tapped two holes. I found out they were 6-32 and should come in handy when I install a new sole. Luckily I had some steel around that was an exact fit.
So I ground the end square and then marked the toe.
And then it was time to go to the grinding annex. I clamped the steel in the vise and got out an angle grinder.
With ear and eye protection in place, I cut the piece off and ground a radius on it.
Then I marked the holes and drilled them with the drill press.
The setup may look unconventional, but it worked for this small piece. What NOT to do is hold it with fingers (!). Sometimes drill bits get stuck and the DP has loads of torque. It will spin that sucker around until it has weed whacked every bit of tender skin in its way.
After drilling, I used a reamer to open the holes slightly.
I fit the new sole and made a few passes. It worked OK but the mouth was too tight. I needed to open it a bit.
It was then that I discovered that one side of it was really close. Could that be why the PO dug it out??? Anyway, I removed the plate and ground it at 45 degrees on the edge. Then I reinstalled it and filed it open.
Time to work on the toe. The new sole is a bit proud.
But was quickly ground even.
So here is the totally jacked up plane.
The original body was broken and welded at the 45 degree joint. Note the (nicely done) weld build up. And the frontpiece needed a new sole. The blade was replaced with a modified one from a block plane. The lever cap is from a #78 rabbet plane. The front knob was from a transitional. I drilled out the top for the nut. And the tote has a big repair.
In spite of these issues, the plane works beautifully.
This goat is now my user plane and I can keep it in the shop without worry. Maybe I will spiff it up with a new paint job. There is no way I can REDUCE the value of it any more. But somehow I really like this plane. It may be full of flaws but I managed to get it back on its feet and back to work.
Stanley #72 chamfer plane
So let's continue with this plane. It worked OK but the blade was really hard to set due to the previous mods.
The PO for some unknown reason felt the need to dig a big hole in the sole but he also tapped two holes. I found out they were 6-32 and should come in handy when I install a new sole. Luckily I had some steel around that was an exact fit.
So I ground the end square and then marked the toe.
And then it was time to go to the grinding annex. I clamped the steel in the vise and got out an angle grinder.
With ear and eye protection in place, I cut the piece off and ground a radius on it.
Then I marked the holes and drilled them with the drill press.
The setup may look unconventional, but it worked for this small piece. What NOT to do is hold it with fingers (!). Sometimes drill bits get stuck and the DP has loads of torque. It will spin that sucker around until it has weed whacked every bit of tender skin in its way.
After drilling, I used a reamer to open the holes slightly.
I fit the new sole and made a few passes. It worked OK but the mouth was too tight. I needed to open it a bit.
It was then that I discovered that one side of it was really close. Could that be why the PO dug it out??? Anyway, I removed the plate and ground it at 45 degrees on the edge. Then I reinstalled it and filed it open.
Time to work on the toe. The new sole is a bit proud.
But was quickly ground even.
So here is the totally jacked up plane.
The original body was broken and welded at the 45 degree joint. Note the (nicely done) weld build up. And the frontpiece needed a new sole. The blade was replaced with a modified one from a block plane. The lever cap is from a #78 rabbet plane. The front knob was from a transitional. I drilled out the top for the nut. And the tote has a big repair.
In spite of these issues, the plane works beautifully.
This goat is now my user plane and I can keep it in the shop without worry. Maybe I will spiff it up with a new paint job. There is no way I can REDUCE the value of it any more. But somehow I really like this plane. It may be full of flaws but I managed to get it back on its feet and back to work.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
PP--a lift is unnecessary.
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Thanks... erased the question then...
Why do you say that? Not that I disagree, I just want to know your reasoning.
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
I've used my router table with no lift for decades and never once wished it was more complicated. 3-1/2 hp Stanley router in re-purposed table saw top, mounted to Unisaw.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
I don't own a router lift, but I do have about 8 routers, three in tables. I cannot justify the huge expense attributed to lifts. I can see the convenience but not the large expense. I have no plans to buy one.
Years ago, I found a cheap addition to the router, maybe $5 spent, that is basically a hollow tube with threaded end that allows for fine adjustment via the knob on the other end.
Years ago, I found a cheap addition to the router, maybe $5 spent, that is basically a hollow tube with threaded end that allows for fine adjustment via the knob on the other end.
mefast
Well-known member
My Bosch MRC23EVSK router came with that sort of device as part of the fixed base. I haven't built a router table yet, but it looks like it should work quite well.
so on the one hand a router lift is unnecessary.
But if you have one, and a DRO, it is really nice thing to have. It's not worth the $300+ for most home shops, but I have worked in shops where there are 3 or 5 tables with lifts, interchangeable plates with different openings, the whole shebang on them. Tables that have the same bit at the same adjustment all the time it's a waste, but in a production shop it's going to pay for itself in a job or two in productivity.
Jim I really enjoyed the grinder post. I'm going to mess with this peachtree one, and either get another or a pair of Veritas for my 100 & 150 wheels. The reason I didn't go with the Wolverine is I don't think I will get the use of it to justify the cost, since I don't have turning tools to sharpen. Kind of like a router lift.
But if you have one, and a DRO, it is really nice thing to have. It's not worth the $300+ for most home shops, but I have worked in shops where there are 3 or 5 tables with lifts, interchangeable plates with different openings, the whole shebang on them. Tables that have the same bit at the same adjustment all the time it's a waste, but in a production shop it's going to pay for itself in a job or two in productivity.
Jim I really enjoyed the grinder post. I'm going to mess with this peachtree one, and either get another or a pair of Veritas for my 100 & 150 wheels. The reason I didn't go with the Wolverine is I don't think I will get the use of it to justify the cost, since I don't have turning tools to sharpen. Kind of like a router lift.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Can't imagine the need for a DRO on a router table either.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Che--Glad you liked the grinder stuff. I will try to think of some more grinder tricks.
All--I have avoided the discussion on router tables and lifts. When I worked at Rockler, lifts were one of our hot sellers. I think they are nice but I have been able to get by with an inexpensive little Craftsman table. I guess a lift would be nice but if I did that much work I would rather have a shaper.
All--I have avoided the discussion on router tables and lifts. When I worked at Rockler, lifts were one of our hot sellers. I think they are nice but I have been able to get by with an inexpensive little Craftsman table. I guess a lift would be nice but if I did that much work I would rather have a shaper.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
More grinder stuff
I went back looking for wheel dressers and found this.
It is a Wolverine diamond point dresser. Diamonds are hard and tiny chips embedded in brass are often used to dress wheels. The proper way is to set up the point down at 10-15 degrees and drag it across the wheel.
Unfortunately, this one is MIB. I never saw a use for such precision on my rough gray wheels. One day I might get another Wolverine base for my slow speed grinder so I can do my lathe tools there.
And while we are on accessories, I realized yesterday that my big grinder is a safety hazard since it does not have a tool rest. Yes, there have been a few mishaps--the kind that make you pucker up. So I dug around and found the original rests for this grinder.
They are actually pretty nice. There is an arm, a sheet metal slot for it to ride in, and two screws with nice heads for adjustment.
The box of extra parts also included this nice wheel dresser.
And we know I have a wheel that needs dressing.
The dirty rust is not so bad but the shiny metal clogging is. It shows up better in this picture. Remember that clogged metal spaces on the wheel are not abrasive. All they do is contribute to heat buildup.
So the new wheel dresser dished out the wheel in the middle.
That's not what I was going for. I switched over to the abrasive stick and moved it steadily back and forth, using my finger as a stop holder and guided by the new tool rest.
In a minute or two, I had a clean and flat wheel.
Another bonus I found in the parts box was a water holder that fastens to the grinder. Good bye, Mr Cool Whip.
I also found a smaller rest that is interchangeable.
I guess the lesson here is to look at your grinder when you first set it up. You may have enough accessories that you can avoid an aftermarket purchase.
Let's move on to the slow speed grinder now.
I acquired this one from a ww buddy who moved and needed to lighten his load. It has a nice white wheel and a Scotchbrite wheel. I use the SB side only for now. Just think of a Scotchbrite pad made into a grinder wheel.
These are often used to clean up golf clubs but they work with any metal. I use it to polish brown rust from tools. For instance, here is a #78 lever cap that I need to clean up for my #72 user plane.
And here it is after the screwhead kissed Mr Wheel.
I used a regular Scochbrite pad on the lever cap body. Then I waxed it. The thing looks almost brand new and it only took a few minutes.
I think the real lesson is to get a good grinder and learn how to use it. A good grinder is an essential tool for all woodworkers.
I went back looking for wheel dressers and found this.
It is a Wolverine diamond point dresser. Diamonds are hard and tiny chips embedded in brass are often used to dress wheels. The proper way is to set up the point down at 10-15 degrees and drag it across the wheel.
Unfortunately, this one is MIB. I never saw a use for such precision on my rough gray wheels. One day I might get another Wolverine base for my slow speed grinder so I can do my lathe tools there.
And while we are on accessories, I realized yesterday that my big grinder is a safety hazard since it does not have a tool rest. Yes, there have been a few mishaps--the kind that make you pucker up. So I dug around and found the original rests for this grinder.
They are actually pretty nice. There is an arm, a sheet metal slot for it to ride in, and two screws with nice heads for adjustment.
The box of extra parts also included this nice wheel dresser.
And we know I have a wheel that needs dressing.
The dirty rust is not so bad but the shiny metal clogging is. It shows up better in this picture. Remember that clogged metal spaces on the wheel are not abrasive. All they do is contribute to heat buildup.
So the new wheel dresser dished out the wheel in the middle.
That's not what I was going for. I switched over to the abrasive stick and moved it steadily back and forth, using my finger as a stop holder and guided by the new tool rest.
In a minute or two, I had a clean and flat wheel.
Another bonus I found in the parts box was a water holder that fastens to the grinder. Good bye, Mr Cool Whip.
I also found a smaller rest that is interchangeable.
I guess the lesson here is to look at your grinder when you first set it up. You may have enough accessories that you can avoid an aftermarket purchase.
Let's move on to the slow speed grinder now.
I acquired this one from a ww buddy who moved and needed to lighten his load. It has a nice white wheel and a Scotchbrite wheel. I use the SB side only for now. Just think of a Scotchbrite pad made into a grinder wheel.
These are often used to clean up golf clubs but they work with any metal. I use it to polish brown rust from tools. For instance, here is a #78 lever cap that I need to clean up for my #72 user plane.
And here it is after the screwhead kissed Mr Wheel.
I used a regular Scochbrite pad on the lever cap body. Then I waxed it. The thing looks almost brand new and it only took a few minutes.
I think the real lesson is to get a good grinder and learn how to use it. A good grinder is an essential tool for all woodworkers.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
ALL: i'm trying to get this cedar mailbox stand built now that i've finished siding and painting the exterior of our house and i decided to upgrade from 6x6's to 8x8's that i had on a rack. now that caused a little issue with the 5.5 inch mounts i bought at Home Depot to bolt these cedar posts into.
after planning off all four sides so it will take the Siekins red cedar stain better i have 7.5 inches left so i need to cut an inset an inch on each side. another problem i have is if i do own the right tools they are tucked away in boxes, buckets or at one of my storage units while i'm getting my garage organized so i might not have what i need to really make this job perfect.
that said i do have a couple routers, a couple skill saws, a hand saw that you can see in the picture and probably a few other tools at my reach.
so my question is how would you cut a one inch deep inset so i can mount it with a couple bolts? i tried to freehand with one of my rounters that had a little cutting bit on it (sorry i don't know the official name of the bit, but here's a picture of it). i'm thinking to be a bit more exact maybe i'll make a few cuts an inch deep with my little Ryobi 18v skill saw and then router out the middle and top. any thoughts or good ideas are always welcome.
i did use my little Ryobi 18v to cut all 4 sides of the 8x8 then used my hand saw to finishing cutting the middle when i squared off the bottom and cut them to size cause they are 76 inches tall.
here's a few pictures.
thanks all
after planning off all four sides so it will take the Siekins red cedar stain better i have 7.5 inches left so i need to cut an inset an inch on each side. another problem i have is if i do own the right tools they are tucked away in boxes, buckets or at one of my storage units while i'm getting my garage organized so i might not have what i need to really make this job perfect.
that said i do have a couple routers, a couple skill saws, a hand saw that you can see in the picture and probably a few other tools at my reach.
so my question is how would you cut a one inch deep inset so i can mount it with a couple bolts? i tried to freehand with one of my rounters that had a little cutting bit on it (sorry i don't know the official name of the bit, but here's a picture of it). i'm thinking to be a bit more exact maybe i'll make a few cuts an inch deep with my little Ryobi 18v skill saw and then router out the middle and top. any thoughts or good ideas are always welcome.
i did use my little Ryobi 18v to cut all 4 sides of the 8x8 then used my hand saw to finishing cutting the middle when i squared off the bottom and cut them to size cause they are 76 inches tall.
here's a few pictures.
thanks all
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Drives--That project is looking good. You do nice work, even if your tools are somewhere else. As for the inset, I would do it opposite of your initial way. I would use a router to rough out the opening and take out the waste. Then I would use a chisel to square it up with more precision. Good luck.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Git--I never set up a miter lock bit in a router, but I asked Mr Google. He responded with some good hits and videos.
I will agree that a DRO isn't necessary. Certain things are much easier to set up with one.
Jim if your water tray rattles like mine does get some of those sticky back foam 'furniture feet' or similar and put it on either end of the back. Even with water in it mine rattled a lot more without the feet than with.
I think I'm going to be getting a scotchbrite wheel. That looks neat.
Jim if your water tray rattles like mine does get some of those sticky back foam 'furniture feet' or similar and put it on either end of the back. Even with water in it mine rattled a lot more without the feet than with.
I think I'm going to be getting a scotchbrite wheel. That looks neat.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
For this kind of work one of the handiest router bits is a pattern follower. Just clamp a straight piece of plywood or acrylic or Masonite precisely where you want the cut and run the router over it.
Sounds like you have the right tools (among several different tools and ways to make your recess).
Just the 'wrong' approach.
Freehanding a router will leave the recess looking, well, like it was done free hand.
Spend maybe 5 minutes with your saw(s) and some wood pieces and make a jig to guide your router and/or bit.
(btw, the straight bit in your router that you drew a blank on the name is called a straight mortising bit. )
Make jig, clamp onto workpiece, cut uniform (in shape and size) recesses. Done.
Or go all Roy Underhill on it and skip the power tools and just use some marking knives and a try square and mark out the desired recess. Then get out some sharp hand chisels and cut out what you need to remove. Old Stanley Router Plane optional.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Git: if i own those guides i'm not sure where they would be, but i do own maybe 5 routers. that said I thank you for the idea and maybe i can put in some stops and clamp them in place then freehand out the middle so the edges will be pretty clean.
just asking did you drill holes and put in those extra 7 screws or did your support include them. i've had 2 bolts holding up my 8 foot 6x6's on my pergola for years now and no movement, but i've got other wood supports and a few benjamins worth of galvanized bolts holding it together.
BTW on these 6x6's i planed them up at angle to get them to fit the 5.5 inch supports thinking i'd have it bricked around them by now, but finishing projects seems to get in the way of my fun buying tools so it's not done yet. i'm not planning on any brickwork around my mailbox stand hence the cutting the brackets in.
anybody else use COPPER GREEN for wood in or close to contact with the ground? or do you have a better or different product you like better?
thank you
just asking did you drill holes and put in those extra 7 screws or did your support include them. i've had 2 bolts holding up my 8 foot 6x6's on my pergola for years now and no movement, but i've got other wood supports and a few benjamins worth of galvanized bolts holding it together.
BTW on these 6x6's i planed them up at angle to get them to fit the 5.5 inch supports thinking i'd have it bricked around them by now, but finishing projects seems to get in the way of my fun buying tools so it's not done yet. i'm not planning on any brickwork around my mailbox stand hence the cutting the brackets in.
anybody else use COPPER GREEN for wood in or close to contact with the ground? or do you have a better or different product you like better?
thank you
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
EZ: thanks and it's been a while since i've used a router and i can't even remember how to change the bit so i'll have to YouTube it or ??
Moon: yep, I knew there was a better way and yes my free ******** is going on the inside and doesn't look at all like i'd want it to.
yep if i had my chisels handy i might have went that method cause either way isn't fast unless you make a jig like has been mentioned. i knew there was a better way.
thank you
GIT: yep 5 years ago when my wife was my finish cement helper we forgot to get those Simpson brackets off the ground, but i remembered this time. since I'm next to a drain that catches a fair amount of runnoff from my driveway and gravel parking area i think i'll still keep the wood off the supports and hold them in place with some stainless or galvanized bolts i've got hanging around. thank you for the help
ALL: is copper green maybe the best option for treating wood that can come in contact with a lot of water, dirt or bugs? or is there a better product?
Moon: yep, I knew there was a better way and yes my free ******** is going on the inside and doesn't look at all like i'd want it to.
yep if i had my chisels handy i might have went that method cause either way isn't fast unless you make a jig like has been mentioned. i knew there was a better way.
thank you
GIT: yep 5 years ago when my wife was my finish cement helper we forgot to get those Simpson brackets off the ground, but i remembered this time. since I'm next to a drain that catches a fair amount of runnoff from my driveway and gravel parking area i think i'll still keep the wood off the supports and hold them in place with some stainless or galvanized bolts i've got hanging around. thank you for the help
ALL: is copper green maybe the best option for treating wood that can come in contact with a lot of water, dirt or bugs? or is there a better product?
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Starting another project because I'm not in the middle of enough of them. This is for my wife's 30th bday next month. Plans from Paul sellers and his woodworking masterclasses website. Great videos. Box is sapele. It will be "barrelled" and dovetailed. Never done either so hopefully it will turn out all right. The sapele when done should look fantastic. 
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turbowoodworker
Well-known member
Can't wait to see that sapele figure come to life. Pretty piece of wood.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
rrich--That sapele looks like it will take a good finish. BTW, the wood db says sapele dust is a skin irritant. To be safe, wash yourself and clothes after working it (esp, sanding). Be sure to wear a respirator or turn on your dust collector. Good luck and happy b-day to your wife.
Jim: good to know thanks.
Didn't do much to it last night got the pieces cut to length and started to cut out part of the end pieces. Since I don't have a router plane I think I'll clean up the area with my table saw. Both ends need to have a rabbet then I can start on the dovetails. Used a marking guage to get the line then used my veritas dovetail saw to cut down to the line. Didn't get a pic after I chiseled away most of the waste.
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Didn't do much to it last night got the pieces cut to length and started to cut out part of the end pieces. Since I don't have a router plane I think I'll clean up the area with my table saw. Both ends need to have a rabbet then I can start on the dovetails. Used a marking guage to get the line then used my veritas dovetail saw to cut down to the line. Didn't get a pic after I chiseled away most of the waste.
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hunterguy86
Well-known member
Added some new planes to my collection this weekend.
Not sure what the little one is, but has a Stanley blade. The #4 is a Stanley as well.
The 45 is missing the center section and various other parts. I guess I'll be hitting up eBay to find replacements to get it back to working order.
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Not sure what the little one is, but has a Stanley blade. The #4 is a Stanley as well.
The 45 is missing the center section and various other parts. I guess I'll be hitting up eBay to find replacements to get it back to working order.
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Hunter--Those should clean up nicely. The 45 looks like an early one with a bonus fence thrown in the deal. The #4 looks like it is in good shape. All of these should clean up well.
Teenager with old tools
Well-known member
I picked up a Miller's falls no 75-01-b when I contacted the dude it had no blade or front knob which was fine because I wanted just the part that holds the blade down since that parts broken on one of my stanley planes. I get there and the guy had found the parts. The part fits perfect on the stanley plane but I'm not sure if I want to use the Miller's falls or my stanley 220.
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hunterguy86
Well-known member
I found and ordered a center section and depth gauge this morning. Should be here this week.
The japaning looks great on the #4. It just needs to be derusted on the sole and sides. The blade just needs some love and it'll be ready to go back in service.
I read that veritas combo plane and plow plane blades will work in the 45. I think I'll give them a try soon. Just have to decide what I want to make next.
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Teen--Glad you got lucky finding parts for your plane. Sometimes parts can be a challenge.
Hunter--Also glad to hear you found the center section for your plane. Since it is an early version without the blade depth adjuster, it takes any 1/8" thick cutter. I have lots of sets but it seems the 1/8" wide cutter is my favorite. Make sure you get one of those.
Hunter--Also glad to hear you found the center section for your plane. Since it is an early version without the blade depth adjuster, it takes any 1/8" thick cutter. I have lots of sets but it seems the 1/8" wide cutter is my favorite. Make sure you get one of those.
hunterguy86
Well-known member
What types of projects/tasks do you find yourself using the 45 on mostly?
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
I really like the 1/8" cutter and even keep a spare body loaded with one so it is always handy (the center section is removed when a 1/8 cutter is used). The original #45 box is good for shipping but not very practical for use because the plane has to be broken down completely to be stored. I keep mine in a plastic toolbox along with the spare body and blade sets.
Almost every furniture project requires a 1/8 groove somewhere. It makes a good reference line for mouldings. I use it to establish corners for rabbets. Just put in a groove and then plane out the waste. This method is easier for me because it is idiot proof.
I once repaired an antique mantle and used the beading blades for trim. There was tearout, but it just added to the charm.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
ALL: while some of my routers and most of my router bits are MIA i figured out a different method to make some notches. maybe after i finish a few more on the support's cut outs i'll have it figured out.
here's a few pictures of my cedar mailbox and the cross support is actually a 4.25x4.25 i've planed with my Craftsman electric planer to 4x4 so maybe that will let you know i'm putting up 8x8's for posts of the mailbox.
i'm making progress so a few more cuts and i can start staining then bolting and screwing it together.
cheers
here's a few pictures of my cedar mailbox and the cross support is actually a 4.25x4.25 i've planed with my Craftsman electric planer to 4x4 so maybe that will let you know i'm putting up 8x8's for posts of the mailbox.
i'm making progress so a few more cuts and i can start staining then bolting and screwing it together.
cheers
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Drives--Clever, very clever. 
drivesitfar
Well-known member
RR & JIM: thanks
ALL: I got better as I practiced, but wish i had my tools in a spot where i could find them instead of boxes and buckets while i'm ORGANIZING MY GARAGE and after moving in the ROTOBIN and more benches. anyway I think i'm going to get it done and my 80 year old neighbor calls our new mailbox stand the Taj Mahal.
I'm using Seikens redwood stain on the cedar and i think it's going to look pretty decent.
cheers
ALL: I got better as I practiced, but wish i had my tools in a spot where i could find them instead of boxes and buckets while i'm ORGANIZING MY GARAGE and after moving in the ROTOBIN and more benches. anyway I think i'm going to get it done and my 80 year old neighbor calls our new mailbox stand the Taj Mahal.
I'm using Seikens redwood stain on the cedar and i think it's going to look pretty decent.
cheers
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OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Drives--You are on the right track with the organizing project. Every bit of organizing in my shop has paid big dividends. Now that cooler weather is on the way, I will continue my efforts. BTW, your exterior projects are looking good. Nothing wrong with a little curb appeal.
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Desk rehab
Faithful readers will remember my daughter's antique Eastlake desk from a few posts back. Well, it still sits on my workbench--a huge wart of a project. I am continuing my assessments--both of my sanity and of this desk. One of them is in very poor shape and I am afraid it is not the desk.
This desk has casters and that is good/bad. Good that it can be repositioned but bad that the casters lack good mobility. Repeated pushing has stressed the joints and that racking has broken many of them loose. It is worse at the bottom--the top is pretty secure. It has been repaired before. Those earlier repairs hinder my response.
Alternative #1--Total Repair and Restoration (R&R)
The most enduring fix is to remove the top and back. Then open all M&T joints and break off the glue blocks. Then it is a simple process to clean, repair, and reassemble. The desk was originally built using hide glue which becomes brittle over time. If this desk had no previous repairs, I think the total R&R would be the best course. But the modern glue means that many joints would have to be broken. At my rate of work, the total R&R could take months and tie up my workbench the whole time.
Alternative #2--Get it back on its feet (BOF)
Most of the lower open joints are open enough to glue back. Some cleaning and careful planning (must be done quickly to keep from starving the glue)could result in about an 80% cure of joint looseness. Total time is a couple of days.
Additional work
In addition to the loose joints, many of the drawers have been overloaded and have worn sides and bearing surfaces. At least 50% of them need to be repaired. Also, the casters need to be replaced with a structure to keep the desk from future racking and ruin. Each of these projects will run a few weeks.
Please enjoy some photos of the drawer and slide damage as I ponder which course to take.
Here is one of the bearing surfaces. You can see the rounded channel made by the drawer.
Here is a shot from the end.
Here is a shot from the interior. Unfortunately, this bearing piece cannot be easily removed.
So another thing to ponder is how to fix the bearing surfaces and the drawer sides that have worn. This wear takes years of abuse. When the desk was in my possession, I waxed the bearing surfaces and drawer sides heavily with paraffin. My daughter has had the desk for only about a year and that is not enough time to produce this kind of wear. So that leaves only one culprit--The Plaintiff. My guess is that the wobbly carcass and the sticky drawers are what led this pitiful desk to my daughter's doorstep. I need to do her a solid and somehow get this thing back on its feet.
So here as I ponder the future, I solicit your suggestions and advice for the go forward plan.
Faithful readers will remember my daughter's antique Eastlake desk from a few posts back. Well, it still sits on my workbench--a huge wart of a project. I am continuing my assessments--both of my sanity and of this desk. One of them is in very poor shape and I am afraid it is not the desk.
This desk has casters and that is good/bad. Good that it can be repositioned but bad that the casters lack good mobility. Repeated pushing has stressed the joints and that racking has broken many of them loose. It is worse at the bottom--the top is pretty secure. It has been repaired before. Those earlier repairs hinder my response.
Alternative #1--Total Repair and Restoration (R&R)
The most enduring fix is to remove the top and back. Then open all M&T joints and break off the glue blocks. Then it is a simple process to clean, repair, and reassemble. The desk was originally built using hide glue which becomes brittle over time. If this desk had no previous repairs, I think the total R&R would be the best course. But the modern glue means that many joints would have to be broken. At my rate of work, the total R&R could take months and tie up my workbench the whole time.
Alternative #2--Get it back on its feet (BOF)
Most of the lower open joints are open enough to glue back. Some cleaning and careful planning (must be done quickly to keep from starving the glue)could result in about an 80% cure of joint looseness. Total time is a couple of days.
Additional work
In addition to the loose joints, many of the drawers have been overloaded and have worn sides and bearing surfaces. At least 50% of them need to be repaired. Also, the casters need to be replaced with a structure to keep the desk from future racking and ruin. Each of these projects will run a few weeks.
Please enjoy some photos of the drawer and slide damage as I ponder which course to take.
Here is one of the bearing surfaces. You can see the rounded channel made by the drawer.
Here is a shot from the end.
Here is a shot from the interior. Unfortunately, this bearing piece cannot be easily removed.
So another thing to ponder is how to fix the bearing surfaces and the drawer sides that have worn. This wear takes years of abuse. When the desk was in my possession, I waxed the bearing surfaces and drawer sides heavily with paraffin. My daughter has had the desk for only about a year and that is not enough time to produce this kind of wear. So that leaves only one culprit--The Plaintiff. My guess is that the wobbly carcass and the sticky drawers are what led this pitiful desk to my daughter's doorstep. I need to do her a solid and somehow get this thing back on its feet.
So here as I ponder the future, I solicit your suggestions and advice for the go forward plan.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Sounds like the casters were added and caused much of the trouble: if so, get rid of them. Then do the bare minimum to put it in service.
Bob Heine
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Jim, obviously the carcass has to be re-glued but perhaps you can fix the drawers with some modern hidden slides that would keep the look but sidestep the hand work those wood-on-wood slides would require.
