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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Thanks to Turbo's suggestion I reclaimed the hold downs from the bottom of the table. Now if HD will just come across with some properly sized bolts I will be in business.
Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips
- Thread starter jimreed2160
- Start date
gnpenning
Well-known member
Brands for livestock have a small surface area. It's easier to heat evenly, less damage to the animal, easier to keep from botching the brand making it easier to read. For my area cattle brands are 4", horse's less.
When branding wood and leather the same principles apply. Less surface area will produce a clearer brand. Also imperfections in an unlevel surface will not be so noticeable.
My livestock brands are 1/4" material. The cattle on edge and horse is round bar.
These are of my horse iron.
Pic 4 shows it on the right shoulder. I freeze brand the horse's. Cattle get hot.
When branding wood and leather the same principles apply. Less surface area will produce a clearer brand. Also imperfections in an unlevel surface will not be so noticeable.
My livestock brands are 1/4" material. The cattle on edge and horse is round bar.
These are of my horse iron.
Pic 4 shows it on the right shoulder. I freeze brand the horse's. Cattle get hot.
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Gnpenning- I know this I have and handful of my own cattle brands back home. I did it the way I did to see if my thought process would work, I fully plan on making another wood brand that will be dimensionally correct. You irons look nice and like they'd leave a good, clean mark.
Zach
Zach
gnpenning
Well-known member
It was meant to help out anyone who was wanting to do one, not to say anyone else wasn't doing it right. There are many ways to skin a cat. Just showing other options and how they look.
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
Drill press table fun
I checked the on line prices for Tee track hardware and was not impressed. Each piece is not so expensive but you can get sticker shock once you add up what you need. Here is my haul of hex bolts from HD.
The Tee nuts were .30 each and the bolts were .22 for the 2" and .73 for the 6" one. Added bonus is that the hex heads fit the tee track without modification.
I thought it would be easy enough to make my own handles with these tee nuts.
So I got ready to use my new table. It was pretty far down, so I loosened the table adjuster and started to crank.
OUCH! We have no clearance, Clarence! The table is in the way of the crank.
So I went old school to drill the tee nut holes.
AND proceeded to blow one of them out.
OK, just sputter a bit and move down the stick.
I cut them apart and got ready to seat the nuts on my new hickory handles.
And here is a class photo of my new hold down clamps that were salvaged from the bottom of the table.
Those Costco rollup containers sure do make nice trays.
Back to the table. How can I raise the DP without the table blocking the crank???
The kit came with 6" all thread to attach the table. At the time, it seemed like overkill. Now it seems like a very thoughtful thing to do. All I need is about an inch of air. That sounds like a 2x4.
It was a simple matter to add the blocking and elevate the table.
And now we have clearance, Clarence.
I also took some time to hang a piece of pegboard behind the DP. Here is how you hang a wire brush on pegboard.
Just get a hanger and place it on top of the block so you can drill the hole at the correct angle.
Give the other hole about 15-20 degrees so the brush does not fall out.
So it was a successful shop morning for me. Nap time this afternoon will be sweet.
I checked the on line prices for Tee track hardware and was not impressed. Each piece is not so expensive but you can get sticker shock once you add up what you need. Here is my haul of hex bolts from HD.
The Tee nuts were .30 each and the bolts were .22 for the 2" and .73 for the 6" one. Added bonus is that the hex heads fit the tee track without modification.
I thought it would be easy enough to make my own handles with these tee nuts.
So I got ready to use my new table. It was pretty far down, so I loosened the table adjuster and started to crank.
OUCH! We have no clearance, Clarence! The table is in the way of the crank.
So I went old school to drill the tee nut holes.
AND proceeded to blow one of them out.
OK, just sputter a bit and move down the stick.
I cut them apart and got ready to seat the nuts on my new hickory handles.
And here is a class photo of my new hold down clamps that were salvaged from the bottom of the table.
Those Costco rollup containers sure do make nice trays.
Back to the table. How can I raise the DP without the table blocking the crank???
The kit came with 6" all thread to attach the table. At the time, it seemed like overkill. Now it seems like a very thoughtful thing to do. All I need is about an inch of air. That sounds like a 2x4.
It was a simple matter to add the blocking and elevate the table.
And now we have clearance, Clarence.
I also took some time to hang a piece of pegboard behind the DP. Here is how you hang a wire brush on pegboard.
Just get a hanger and place it on top of the block so you can drill the hole at the correct angle.
Give the other hole about 15-20 degrees so the brush does not fall out.
So it was a successful shop morning for me. Nap time this afternoon will be sweet.
1Garageman
Well-known member
This guys wood working shop is amazing! Beautiful Belt-Driven Woodworking Machines, Rescued from the Rust.
Check out the video he made of his workshop. Pretty amazing antique machines!
http://www.finewoodworking.com/2017/01/27/motc-bob-berghorsts-vintage-line-shaft-woodshop
Check out the video he made of his workshop. Pretty amazing antique machines!
http://www.finewoodworking.com/2017/01/27/motc-bob-berghorsts-vintage-line-shaft-woodshop
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OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Thanks for the pictures. Running tools off a jackshaft is really old school. Like water wheel old school. I saw a shutter shop like that one time. When it came time to turn on the shaper, our intrepid ww just reached for a big stick and nudged the leather belt onto the pulley! I guess turning off the machine just took a swat. 
sawduststeve
Well-known member
Yes and no, polyurethane glue loves moisture and is often used in boatbuilding and many outdoor applications, yes, the glue that seeped out has no mechanical strength the same as it wouldn't in a badly fitting joint, but in a tight joint under pressure of clamps no bubbles can form , resulting in a very strong joint.
Regards
Steve.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Having been a boat builder for over 40 years I can't think of even one instance where I would choose foaming glue over the WEST epoxy I use for virtually every glue joint.
sawduststeve
Well-known member
haha, fair do's , I've never built a boat but if I want one I think you'd better build it for me., I do hate wet feet.
I was quoting what it said in the paperwork.To be fair, my panels aren't under any strain and Iv'e not had one let go , touch wood.
Whats the weather like where you are , any sailing this weekend ?
Regards
Steve.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
The negative side of using epoxy glue is that you must be well prepared, prior to gluing, because of the limited pot life. Once the resin and hardener are mixed, there can be no delays. You cannot simply squirt some epoxy into the joint and assemble; you must prime mating surfaces with neat resin/hardener mix, re-coating highly absorbent surfaces (like plywood end grain) over and over, until it will absorb no more, then re-coat, again, with thickened epoxy (for filling all voids). Also cleanup must be done immediately--it is very difficult to remove excess squeeze-out once the epoxy has cured. And, if not completely cleaned, it can stain the wood, a potentially serious problem where a clear finish will be used.
OT--a very wet winter, so far; light rain earlier today--no sailing.
OT--a very wet winter, so far; light rain earlier today--no sailing.
sawduststeve
Well-known member
ez-duzit, thanks, every day's a school day.
As an apprentice 30+ years ago, we used to use Cascamite, a powdered glue mixed with water,when glueing stairs up, I remember that foaming slightly but setting rock hard, you could clean up with a wet rag though.As luck would have it, no one drowns when a stair tread comes loose.
Wow , it's just like being in M-D Ray here wet and no sailing, who knew.
Cheers
As an apprentice 30+ years ago, we used to use Cascamite, a powdered glue mixed with water,when glueing stairs up, I remember that foaming slightly but setting rock hard, you could clean up with a wet rag though.As luck would have it, no one drowns when a stair tread comes loose.
Wow , it's just like being in M-D Ray here wet and no sailing, who knew.
Cheers
ez-duzit
Well-known member
From repairs I've made, that powdered glue would revert back to powdery crystals, leaving a very clean and dry joint with zero penetration.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
On another topic, I see loads of table saw threads that turn in to debates about all sorts of topics. All I can say today is how happy and thankful I am for my recent (6 months ago) purchase of a 5HP new Delta Unisaw.
Every time I use it I ask myself how I lived with an underpowered contractor's saw. I realize too how lucky I am to have the space for a large immobile saw and a full size, permanently placed outfeed table. Today I ripped several 48x114 inch laminate covered plycore. Very heavy stuff for one person but because of my new setup, it was almost painless and very accurate. What a difference I tell you.
There is no substitute for heft and horsepower.
Every time I use it I ask myself how I lived with an underpowered contractor's saw. I realize too how lucky I am to have the space for a large immobile saw and a full size, permanently placed outfeed table. Today I ripped several 48x114 inch laminate covered plycore. Very heavy stuff for one person but because of my new setup, it was almost painless and very accurate. What a difference I tell you.
There is no substitute for heft and horsepower.
beakie
Well-known member
I agree with full size saw vs contractor, how you can only fit/afford what you can fit/afford. I have a Rockwell Delta 12/14, a unisaw on steroids.
that said, if you are ripping sheet goods, you should try a track saw.
I love my table saw, with a slider wing, but for sheet goods a track saw is a game changer.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
As I was posting, I wondered how long it would take for the track saw thing to come up. One post. I think the track saw is a nice addition. But for me I have great dust collection and now a great TS and outfeed table so I think the only advantage is the problem of lifting the sheet to the TS. I used to breakdown sheets on the pickup bed. But I often get the sheet goods the week before I have all my dimensions etc. So it all comes in the shop and ends up cut as needed.
To reiterate, I recognize how fortunate I am to have a large space with dedicated tooling and dust collection. So many here do not have the space for a Unisaw and a tracksaw is a good option.
To reiterate, I recognize how fortunate I am to have a large space with dedicated tooling and dust collection. So many here do not have the space for a Unisaw and a tracksaw is a good option.
I missed this bit before and didn't realize what you were doing to attach to the table. So I had to go back a few pages.
While I have a benchtop press that this fits on without modification, ultimately it's intended for the bigger DP like in this video. I think I'm going to move the T nuts as he has done in the video, probably take a 1x2 or similar strip to attach to the table so I can recover the hold downs just as you have done. Thanks for the idea.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/pZCSiFFByhQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Cheechi--Good luck with your DP table project. And while I appreciate the thanks, all this was Turbo's idea.
gnpenning
Well-known member
I bought that same table a few years ago. Could make one any cheaper. I've been very happy with it. Comes in handy.
Have fun with it.
Have fun with it.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Super Bowl Prep
So every ww project cannot be fine furniture. Sometimes it is just something simple for the household. When I finally upgraded the kitchen TV from 39 to 48, something happened. The old TV had a base which was happy to reside on the cable box I built from plywood. BUT the new TV had a stand at each end with two legs on each side. Smallish cable box suddenly was not fit for the job. My quick fix was to add some 2x4s to the top.
I put proud screws in each end and added a few zip ties because the landing spots seemed a little tight.
And the new TV has a lower profile than the one it replaced. That meant that the sound bar covered up the bottom of the screen. I cut and bent some SS rod and stuck it into the front of the box on each side. It lowered the sound bar just enough to get out of the way.
Woodworking to the rescue. Now we are ready for the big day.
So every ww project cannot be fine furniture. Sometimes it is just something simple for the household. When I finally upgraded the kitchen TV from 39 to 48, something happened. The old TV had a base which was happy to reside on the cable box I built from plywood. BUT the new TV had a stand at each end with two legs on each side. Smallish cable box suddenly was not fit for the job. My quick fix was to add some 2x4s to the top.
I put proud screws in each end and added a few zip ties because the landing spots seemed a little tight.
And the new TV has a lower profile than the one it replaced. That meant that the sound bar covered up the bottom of the screen. I cut and bent some SS rod and stuck it into the front of the box on each side. It lowered the sound bar just enough to get out of the way.
Woodworking to the rescue. Now we are ready for the big day.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Jim--that is not woodworking--that's a hack job.
turbowoodworker
Well-known member
EZ,
It becomes fine woodworking once Jim removes the bar code sticker from the 2x4!
It becomes fine woodworking once Jim removes the bar code sticker from the 2x4!
jar944
Well-known member
Speaking of tablesaws... I finally got around to trying my power feeder on my tablesaw. It wasn't the best setup being it was still bolted to my shaper but made me want either a second feeder mount or a second power feeder.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BQGJ5rPgd01/
https://www.instagram.com/p/BQGJ5rPgd01/
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Jar--Love your power feeder. It keeps fingers FAR away.
shortykorte
Well-known member
Had a great afternoon learning how to set up my hand planes. JimReed2160 invited me over. He said to bring my planes and he'd show me how to sharpen and adjust them. A great teacher and he had me shaving thin ribbons of wood. I learned a lot today. Thank you Jim!!!! 
Wood based worked perfect for the TV and like you stated, it wasn't fine woodworking but a temporary solution. At Least FSU and NC won today.
Wood based worked perfect for the TV and like you stated, it wasn't fine woodworking but a temporary solution. At Least FSU and NC won today.
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jimreed2160
Well-known member
I spent a delightful afternoon in the woodshop with ShortyKort, my new in-town GJ buddy. It is great to have an internet introduction to great folks who share our common interests. Sorry about no photos, but we were having way too much fun to stop for the press. He brought a Craftsman #5 and a block plane. Both had a little rust but the blades were not pitted. I knocked off enough rust to keep the test wood clean and sharpened up the blades. And then Shorty dug into a 2x4 and started pulling these wispy full width shavings. What a treat!!! It just shows that there is much life left in most old tools. Good luck, Shorty.
As for me, I started another project earlier in the day. My old wall-o-screwdrivers needed a refresh. The back bench in my shop is the general fixit workstation and that is where screwdrivers get the most use. Over time I assembled a motley crew of drivers which were slapped onto the pegboard without much thought for efficiency. So the holidays saw me shopping for some replacements. I found them at Lowes.
The foam looks great but is not very practical. It takes up too much space and does not hold them well when vertical. In addition, they are seated by length, not size??!!!??
Here is what I am replacing.
The first step is out with the old. They will be repurposed in a low traffic area. At least now I have a void to fill.
I saved the TV box because the cardboard was large and heavy. It was like a small sheet of 1/4 plywood. That is just the stuff for prototyping. Here is my first pass.
I need to mount the slots and Phillips at an angle.
Then I want to mount the smalls above them.
I will resume tomorrow. I need to work around the Queen's dental appointment but should have something going by tomorrow afternoon. Stay tuned.
What a treat!!! It just shows that there is much life left in most old tools. Good luck, Shorty.As for me, I started another project earlier in the day. My old wall-o-screwdrivers needed a refresh. The back bench in my shop is the general fixit workstation and that is where screwdrivers get the most use. Over time I assembled a motley crew of drivers which were slapped onto the pegboard without much thought for efficiency. So the holidays saw me shopping for some replacements. I found them at Lowes.
The foam looks great but is not very practical. It takes up too much space and does not hold them well when vertical. In addition, they are seated by length, not size??!!!??
Here is what I am replacing.
The first step is out with the old. They will be repurposed in a low traffic area. At least now I have a void to fill.
I saved the TV box because the cardboard was large and heavy. It was like a small sheet of 1/4 plywood. That is just the stuff for prototyping. Here is my first pass.
I need to mount the slots and Phillips at an angle.
Then I want to mount the smalls above them.
I will resume tomorrow. I need to work around the Queen's dental appointment but should have something going by tomorrow afternoon. Stay tuned.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Screwdrivers mounted today
I had a very productive day in the shop today and got to use my new DP table. Dentist in the morning and Photobucket outage all afternoon conspired to delay this post. Sorry for that.
Here is the setup for drilling the driver holes. I needed sacrificial wood on the bottom and spacer wood on the top because I drilled two sets of holes at once.
The awl marks from my mockup were spaced OK, but were not in a line. But no problem because the table will take care of that.
Having a table with a fence made the drilling quick.
Test fit goes well.
The screwdriver shafts are different diameters so I drilled larger holes to size on the top and all large holes on the bottom. Then I chamfered them.
Then I made a couple of spacers and glued the pieces in a sandwich.
Class photo.
Attached from the rear of the pegboard with sheetrock screws.
And here they are in place.
The top piece went much more quickly. Once I saw the bottom piece, I was able to streamline construction on the top. Most of the shafts were common so I was able to use fewer drill changes.
The fixit workbench is a little more organized now. Pegboard has its limitations but I really like it for flexibility. These wooden holders were pretty easy to build and are far superior to most of those jiggly little wire brackets.
I am glad to get this little project out of the way before my procedure on Wednesday. That will knock me out of action for a few days but I hope to be posting more planecraft by the weekend. Perhaps this is not a fine ww project, but it does show how handy the DP table can be. In addition, I am very happy with my new screwdrivers.
I had a very productive day in the shop today and got to use my new DP table. Dentist in the morning and Photobucket outage all afternoon conspired to delay this post. Sorry for that.
Here is the setup for drilling the driver holes. I needed sacrificial wood on the bottom and spacer wood on the top because I drilled two sets of holes at once.
The awl marks from my mockup were spaced OK, but were not in a line. But no problem because the table will take care of that.
Having a table with a fence made the drilling quick.
Test fit goes well.
The screwdriver shafts are different diameters so I drilled larger holes to size on the top and all large holes on the bottom. Then I chamfered them.
Then I made a couple of spacers and glued the pieces in a sandwich.
Class photo.
Attached from the rear of the pegboard with sheetrock screws.
And here they are in place.
The top piece went much more quickly. Once I saw the bottom piece, I was able to streamline construction on the top. Most of the shafts were common so I was able to use fewer drill changes.
The fixit workbench is a little more organized now. Pegboard has its limitations but I really like it for flexibility. These wooden holders were pretty easy to build and are far superior to most of those jiggly little wire brackets.
I am glad to get this little project out of the way before my procedure on Wednesday. That will knock me out of action for a few days but I hope to be posting more planecraft by the weekend. Perhaps this is not a fine ww project, but it does show how handy the DP table can be. In addition, I am very happy with my new screwdrivers.
SteveL
Well-known member
Band saws can bite too! Just say'n so others out there don't do what I did tonight. Left thumb had a nice gash that may require a few stitches. Bleeding stopped pretty quickly and some super glue is keeping it closed up well so far. Will see tomorrow if a trip to the ER is in order. Be careful out there and constantly think about where your digits are in relationship to a moving blade?
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Ouch! Hope your thumb is OK. Thanks for the safety reminder. I had to make a nibble cut yesterday and started to go. Then I rethought the whole thing. Here is what I ended up doing.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jim: nice upgrade on the screwdrivers and your new wood holder for them.
i bet it was fun teaching a GJ member in person (Shorty) for once instead of posting up and teaching us all with your tutorials. WELL DONE!!
best of luck with the operation and we'll all be pulling for you.
Steve: was it just not paying attention? man that stuff happens quick. hope you are ok today and won't need an ER trick. i think we should all maybe put some superglue in our first aid kits. any downside to superglue?
ALL: so we are mentioning injuries what i usually do is let it bleed out so the impurities have a better chance of not getting trapped, wash in cold water, then i put on some neosporin or something similar I have around then bandage. i guess if the bleeding doesn't stop maybe a bit of super glue? and then possible ER and having somebody drive you might be best.
just a note about our local ER's. i've heard you can wait in line for maybe 8 hours to get seen by the Dr. so maybe going to one of those quick stops might be better, but not sure. anybody have an ER visit to mention cause if you work with tools it's almost inevitable you will get hurt one day (hopefully not).
have a great day turning some wood into something cool!!!!
i bet it was fun teaching a GJ member in person (Shorty) for once instead of posting up and teaching us all with your tutorials. WELL DONE!!
best of luck with the operation and we'll all be pulling for you.
Steve: was it just not paying attention? man that stuff happens quick. hope you are ok today and won't need an ER trick. i think we should all maybe put some superglue in our first aid kits. any downside to superglue?
ALL: so we are mentioning injuries what i usually do is let it bleed out so the impurities have a better chance of not getting trapped, wash in cold water, then i put on some neosporin or something similar I have around then bandage. i guess if the bleeding doesn't stop maybe a bit of super glue? and then possible ER and having somebody drive you might be best.
just a note about our local ER's. i've heard you can wait in line for maybe 8 hours to get seen by the Dr. so maybe going to one of those quick stops might be better, but not sure. anybody have an ER visit to mention cause if you work with tools it's almost inevitable you will get hurt one day (hopefully not).
have a great day turning some wood into something cool!!!!
hunterguy86
Well-known member
If you think it needs to be stitched, you have to go right away. The ER may not stitch it if you wait too long. Traps infection in and such. Just my experience as a paramedic.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
drivesitfar
Well-known member
HUNTER: just curious to know. my method of running to an emergency room is if i can't get it to stop bleeding. my mom was an RN and i bet we used a case of butterfly bandages on me when i was living at home until i moved out when i was 18. what is your opinion?
i accidentally nicked my 40 year old (then 16) with a chainsaw so instead of driving to the local farm community emergency 5 minutes away he said he could wait until we got back to the one in the city next to our home to get him stitched up. they called him chainsaw at school for maybe the rest of his days in high school cause he missed his football game (he was 6'5 and 220 at 16).
i'm sure there are better ways to keep bacteria from forming too besides NEOSPORIN so do you recommend Rubbing Alcohol or what is your go to stuff in your first aid kit at home?
thanks for stopping in cause the more we use tools their is always a possibility of an accident even if we are CAREFUL.
i accidentally nicked my 40 year old (then 16) with a chainsaw so instead of driving to the local farm community emergency 5 minutes away he said he could wait until we got back to the one in the city next to our home to get him stitched up. they called him chainsaw at school for maybe the rest of his days in high school cause he missed his football game (he was 6'5 and 220 at 16).
i'm sure there are better ways to keep bacteria from forming too besides NEOSPORIN so do you recommend Rubbing Alcohol or what is your go to stuff in your first aid kit at home?
thanks for stopping in cause the more we use tools their is always a possibility of an accident even if we are CAREFUL.
ez-duzit
Well-known member
After rinsing out the sawdust, douse it with Betadine and cover with a Band-Aid (so you can keep working without bleeding on the new woodwork or contaminating the wound).
PelicanPines
ALLIANCE MEMBER
A dab of clover honey and a bandaid works well too. Bacteria don't grow well in honey apparently (???)...
I've needed stiches... duct tape... works if you don't have steri strips/butterflys.
I've needed stiches... duct tape... works if you don't have steri strips/butterflys.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
ALL: you guys are tough. thanks for the heads up.
my brother in laws and father in law are or were glaziers and they told me a story one day about working with the bosses' son and the kid was using a 16 penny air nailer. well he must have double fired or his aim was a bit off and he shot a 16 penny through his foot (he was wearing sandals or thongs) so here's the TOUGH GUY PART. not a peep and walks over to his tool box grabs some duct tape, wraps up his foot and is back working in less than 5 minutes. i was told that story almost 30 years ago and it still amazes me.
if you use air powered or any power tools PAY ATTENTION so maybe you won't have to BLEED TO LEARN!!
my brother in laws and father in law are or were glaziers and they told me a story one day about working with the bosses' son and the kid was using a 16 penny air nailer. well he must have double fired or his aim was a bit off and he shot a 16 penny through his foot (he was wearing sandals or thongs) so here's the TOUGH GUY PART. not a peep and walks over to his tool box grabs some duct tape, wraps up his foot and is back working in less than 5 minutes. i was told that story almost 30 years ago and it still amazes me.
if you use air powered or any power tools PAY ATTENTION so maybe you won't have to BLEED TO LEARN!!
SteveL
Well-known member
Decided to go to urgent car this morning just to be safe. After a 2 hour wait, physician said that stitches were not required. Cleaned the wound and secured with SteraStrips. Need to avoid getting it wet for 5-7 days and now have a big bulky gauze wrap on it. I think they do that so you can't possibly forget how stupid you were in the first place.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Decided to go to urgent car this morning just to be safe. After a 2 hour wait, physician said that stitches were not required. Cleaned the wound and secured with SteraStrips. Need to avoid getting it wet for 5-7 days and now have a big bulky gauze wrap on it. I think they do that so you can't possibly forget how stupid you were in the first place.
I was gonna say "clamps" but SteraStrips will do also.
Glad to hear you are OK.
sawduststeve
Well-known member
SteveL. good work on keeping the thumb toothed blade cuts sure do sting.Accident and Emergency here always treated me well, I've been a few times.
I've not a bad word to say about our NHS.I just wash under a tap and get to A+E quick and let the staff do their thing, plenty of stitches but never an infection.
Get well soon.
Jim, good work with the screwdriver holders, simple but effective.
toothed blade cuts sure do sting.Accident and Emergency here always treated me well, I've been a few times.I've not a bad word to say about our NHS.I just wash under a tap and get to A+E quick and let the staff do their thing, plenty of stitches but never an infection.
Get well soon.
Jim, good work with the screwdriver holders, simple but effective.
Zeke
Well-known member
Jim--that is not woodworking--that's a hack job.
Surely a Home Depot 2 x 4 with the heart center. That's all they sell.