Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

[Michaelstover]

One of the best collection of woodworking bench all over the internet.
Thank you all.

 

[jimreed2160]

Zach--I have no experience with the Laguna but it looks like a dynamite saw. You can't go wrong there.

Teen--Good to hear you solved your lathe issue. That is one swell slab but I do not think you will win the 36" planer discussion with your dad.

Keep working on it with patience as your assistant. Maybe teach your little brother some sanding tips. Sooner or later it will be good to go. Wood like that speaks to you.

 

[nutsnbolts]

First you need to think about how do you plan on accurately drilling the handle to put the rod in if that's how you assemble I don't know. But if you have to drill all the way through then you're in full size lathe range to drill on the lathe or drill while its still square and turn it around the hole. If you have to drill all the way through and are able to before turning it then look at a 16 or 18 inch long lathe. Harbor freight sells a 16 inch which should be just fine as long as you know its limits. And since you're talking about making fishing pole handles I don't see you putting a tree stump on it and expecting it to be fine so it'll work fine. Harbor freight also has a twenty dollar set of turning tools start on that I still use most of mine. Learning to turn, for videos watch some videos on how to do things but specifically if you watch a video on how to use each tool individually that can help. Biggest thing is practice and feel. One of the lathes I have access to use has recommended speeds for the size I'm always turning much faster so learn to go by the feel of how its cutting. And the best way to know you've got it down is duplication. If you can make two of the same thing then you've got skill. That's how I practiced a lot was trying to duplicate things. I don't know anything about a Klein mini lathe. Some donts of turning. I see videos of people in long sleeves and gloves while turning. I've got a nice shredded flannel sleeve. So I would say long sleeves gloves and any necklace hanging outside of a shirt is a dont. A do that helps a lot. Keep the lathe tool rest as close to the work as possible and always touch the tool to the rest before your work

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Thanks for the tips. As far as drilling the holes all the way through lengthwise, yes that is the plan. I honestly haven't thought that far ahead...I have never done any of this so everything is new to me. What you are saying does make sense though. This is a simple handle that I might start out with

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Fis...110378?hash=item4b2464746a:g:~8oAAOSweNxZkGQQ

You are correct, I won't be putting any big logs on it, not to start with anyway. Most rod handles are 1.25" thick or so. And my thought is to make them fairly thin so they are light; a lot of wood rod handles are quite heavy (at least the ones I have seen, which are often vintage). You'll never get as light as cork but reasonable would be a nice goal.

There is a shopsmith for sale on Craigslist in my area. I am going to take a good look at my garage when I get home from work and see if I can't wrap my brain around making room for it. I think it would be ideal, not only for what I want to do, but for the little projects I have been doing all along. If I could eliminate having to haul out my chop saw every time I want to cut something that would be great. Someone tell me why it isn't a good idea

 

[jimreed2160]

nuts--There are Shopsmith lovers and Shopsmith haters. My friends who have them love them. The lathe seems to be the most used tool. Your space challenged shop is exactly what the SS was made for. If you can get it for the right price, I say jump.

 

[nutsnbolts]

nuts--There are Shopsmith lovers and Shopsmith haters. My friends who have them love them. The lathe seems to be the most used tool. Your space challenged shop is exactly what the SS was made for. If you can get it for the right price, I say jump.

Thanks for the confidence Jim. Unfortunately it is gone now, it was about $500 and looked to be in great shape. It has a whole mess of stuff with it too, like blades and bits and whatnot

This one just came available though. Not sure what a good price is for them. How much is a new one?

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/tls/d/shopsmith-mark/6300480647.html

 

[jimreed2160]

That famous auction site shows completed listings for the Mark V from about $300-600, so 500 is right in the ballpark. Condition and included accessories can really sweeten or sour the deal. Bring cash and encourage the seller to include everything.

 

[ez-duzit]

A Shopsmith is a huge compromise.

 

[cheechi]

I want a shopsmith the same way I want a RAS. They would be really neat for the history and the cool factor. But today's tools are more valuable for what they can do without having to break it down and set it back up and put up with their quirks.

 

[RickP]

If you like the shopsmith form factor and are willing to change out the attachments, I say go for it! I have one that I use only occasionally, but I'm glad I have it. It really comes in handy for the seldom-used attachments (the ones where I couldn't justify buying a stand-alone tool). I paid $500 for mine, with several attachments, and that sounds like it's just about an average deal.

 

[Teenager with old tools]

The slab after some sanding still lots of sanding to go but its looking bread. 3x21 ryobi belt sanded works great. And what in the hell is this tool? Bought it for five bucks thinkin what is this. Looks like it would be good for splitting small stuff like one by fours but if anyone has insight that would be great.

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[turbowoodworker]

That looks like a froe, possibly homemade or modified? Used to split wood or make shingles?

 

[turbowoodworker]

Hey Teen,
Have you figured out what wood species you have there? My guess now that it is sanded would be spalted maple.

 

[Teenager with old tools]

Hey Teen,
Have you figured out what wood species you have there? My guess now that it is sanded would be spalted maple.

I have not figured it out. In top right corner it has a nice redish tint to it. Whatever it is I think its a beautiful 30 dollar slab.

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[turbowoodworker]

Wow $30? That deserves a "You ****!".

 

[ztorres]

I finally have enough done in my new house woodshop that I can start doing some Woodwork again.
Dust Collection Closet

Planer corner





This was the main thing that had to be fixed

70" was the highest I could bring the ceiling up to thanks to the ducting. But before I redid this area it was about 60" from the ground making the whole area where my bench and saws are useless.
But the wife and I decide over the next two years we're going to build a 24-30' x 50'-60' garage and woodshop


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[rrich1]

Finally drilled the holes for the leg vise. The hole in the leg is 1/8" off center errrrr oh well it will be fine. Maybe tonight or tomorrow I will do a glue up with the braces into the legs. I cut the dowels as well for the glue up. Getting closer! Still need to finalize a design for the leg chop though.

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[jimreed2160]

Teen--The slab is looking good. You are giving the sander a real workout.

Zach--Nice shop!!!

rrich--Your bench is coming along well. It won't be long now.

 

[jimreed2160]

New project

My new project today was fixing up a hammer. Not fancy woodworking but a real special tool.

It looks like a common lightweight claw hammer. But check out the marks.

That's right--it is a Stanley Sweetheart hammer! I found it hammer in a box of tools from my mother in law's kitchen. She lived with us for awhile many years ago before she went into a care facility. This hammer belonged to The Queen's dad.

Collectors know that the Sweetheart era (1920-1934) was the golden age for Stanley tools. This is when they made some of their highest quality handplanes. This is a #12--13 oz , size #2 hammer. And during the SW era, the owner of this hammer ran a still with his brothers in the mountains of east Tennessee. I like to think that this hammer was used in that operation.

Anyway, one of the boys just moved into a new house and I think this is a great housewarming gift. He thought the world of his grandpa and I am sure he would like to have this tool as a memory.

I gave it a gentle brushing and flicked the white paint speckles from the handle. After that it got a coat of Johnsons wax. Now it is off to its new home.

I stamped his grandpa's name into the end of the handle so it won't be lost to history.

 

[ez-duzit]

...I stamped his grandpa's name into the end of the handle...

Am I the only one who views this as a kind of vandalism? Seems a shame to do this to a valued antique. When buying used tools I generally pass up anything that has been engraved or otherwise personalized by a previous owner.

 

[cheechi]

zach I really like that space. Eager to see more how it looks as you get it filled with tools and sawdust.

I think vandalism is a bit strong, I have mixed feelings about it. But since he's not selling the hammer to me how I feel doesn't matter much.

 

[jimreed2160]

Am I the only one who views this as a kind of vandalism? Seems a shame to do this to a valued antique. When buying used tools I generally pass up anything that has been engraved or otherwise personalized by a previous owner.

That's a pretty strong opinion but OK. I agree if you mean grossly overdone ownership marks. But discrete marks are OK with me. In fact, I have many marked tools in my collection and I kinda like them. It gives me a link to the previous owner.

 

[KMScott]

Am I the only one who views this as a kind of vandalism?

Yes. How about a few positive comments every now and then ez-duzit.

I wish I had a tool from my grand father, he was a great mechanic.

 

[ez-duzit]

...How about a few positive comments every now and then ez-duzit...

When you are not being critical you might try this yourself.

This thread is about tools and tips, not gushing. Fellas...realize that defacing your tools reduces their value. You may think you'll keep them forever and you might.

 

[jimreed2160]

New project

Back to woodworking. I was moving stuff around and came across this oak machinists chest. It is a Schartow Sipco 9 drawer chest made in Racine Wis. They were in Racine from 1921 until 1948. You may remember my posts about building a replacement drawer.

I removed the screw and installed a nice new brass knob. The handle is on order and should be here any day. Now it needs refinishing and new felt inside.

I sent a picture to my daughter who is enthusiastic about finishing this project so now she is the new happy owner. She gets a nice box and I get MORE SHOP SPACE. Sounds like a win-win to me.

 

[mefast]

Yes. How about a few positive comments every now and then ez-duzit.

I like ez's blunt honesty, although I don't know I would have used the word vandalism. Is defacing a better word?

Jim (and others that this might apply to), don't take any of the comments that we say to heart. As if we were hanging out together in your shop, it's good to challenge one another's thinking. If you're happy with it, that's all that should really matter at the end of the day. However, if there's something that we think might cause you to loose a limb or burn down the shop, well, that's something entirely different.

 

[jimreed2160]

I like ez's blunt honesty, although I don't know I would have used the word vandalism. Is defacing a better word?

Jim (and others that this might apply to), don't take any of the comments that we say to heart. As if we were hanging out together in your shop, it's good to challenge one another's thinking. If you're happy with it, that's all that should really matter at the end of the day. However, if there's something that we think might cause you to loose a limb or burn down the shop, well, that's something entirely different.

Well said. If you guys can put up with my "wise-a$$ attitude", then I can put up with your "crusty" comments. Keep em coming.

 

[drivesitfar]

Jim: i'm happy to hear you avoided IRMA and really happy you are still posting all your projects on this Woodworking 101 thread while i took a break. GOOD STUFF that is for sure that you've posted and i bet you have a lot more to post along with all the good information you provide.

ALL: i have more than a few tools and methods to cut a few cedar 6.25x6.25 inch 8 foot pieces that i'm going to use for a mailbox stand and wondering what would be the group's choice? i'm going to stain it and probably put on some copper green on the bottom 18 inches like i did on my pergola to keep the ants and other bugs away.

thoughts?

 

[paulm12]

Hey Jim: I've been following your work here, impressive and very helpful. I have a similar sized machinist box that needs alot of work. It has worn out finish, beat up hardware, and a blown out bottom corner bracket. So far I have removed all felt (has metal bottom drawers, and has the original hide glue) and removed all the old shellac and gunk. I am working on how to reinforce the bottom corner. Also, I was wondering where I can find replacement knobs of the same style as original, since I will probably break a few. I can't find any knobs like this.
.

 

[jimreed2160]

Drives--Good to hear from you again. I see you have been working like a busy NW beaver on projects. Cutting a 6x6 beam does present challenges but at least you are working with soft cedar. You can nail or clamp some battens to use as saw guides on the scrap end so that your cut is even. Hand held circular saw from top and bottom will get you close and a handsaw can finish the cut. The guides are important. Last time I cut posts I really butchered the tops. It is hard to freehand something like that. Good luck.

Paul--Nice chest. It looks a lot like the Sipco family. The small drawers on mine are wood and the large drawers have metal. The bottom of yours looks like it was slammed down on something. I am sure it can be repaired to function as new. These things were made simply--mostly **** joints and finish nails. Remove all the drawers and it looks like a big box. On my box, the frame for the center drawer was wonky. It is important because it also holds up the side drawers. It was nailed from the top and rear. Some of the nails missed and I think that is why the original drawer was gone. It was messed up from the factory by that errant nail. I took it out, repaired the splits, and reinstalled it.

For your repair, I suggest you do the same. Carefully open up the box enough to remove the nails and repair the wood damage. Then drill pilots in new locations, add glue, and put it back together with new nails. Make sure the drawers fit correctly.

Good luck with your repair.

 

[rrich1]

I have a workbench! It isn't finished yet. I still need to sand all the joints and make sure the top mortises are flush. Feel like it but will make sure later. I needed to get this done as it was the only place I could put the aprons for the gaming table to clamp and to route in the t bolt access holes. The top isn't glued and honestly I don't think it needs it. I cut a piece of maple plywood in for a shelf as well. I made rabbets earlier in the process for a flush fit. Also have castor's that I will put on that you can drop it down to the bare floor.

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[ptgarcia]

Nicely done! I'd be very proud of that bench!

 

[tapered-pin]

it's gonna take me a while to get through this thread.. tagged (and amazed)

 

[drivesitfar]

Jim: great idea instead of me using my chain saw or some other saw by hand. at least i drew lines on the 6x6 for me to follow down thru the 6x6 with my little chain saw, but of course you can't see the other side. not that it has to be perfectly straight, but i think i'll use your method with my worm drive or a circular saw with the guides and find one of my sharp hand saws to cut out the remainder in the middle.

I also need to 45 off the 4 sides on the top part so guesing just use guides and a circular or worm drive or is there a better way?

thanks for sharing your wisdom.

RR: is that the same workbench you were working on a couple months ago or are you starting an assembly line and business of making amazing benches? in any case i'd love having one like that and want to say you do very nice work. WELL DONE SIR!!

ALL: i'm cutting both ends off of my 6x6 so it's about 7 foot instead of 8 and here's what a few of the Pergola ones looked like as i was staining them the last time. if there is a good way to make a better looking top i'm listening, but i might stick with the same ones on this project cause the mailbox stand won't be far from my pergola.

thanks all and have a great weekend.

 

[mefast]

I also need to 45 off the 4 sides on the top part so guesing just use guides and a circular or worm drive or is there a better way?

If you have a chop saw or compound mitre saw, I'd use that to do the 45s. If it doesn't make it all the way through, similar to what Jim said, finish off the cut with a hand saw.

 

[rrich1]

Drivesitfar: thanks a lot! It sure looks good from a distance doesn't it?! Lol. Its the same one. Taking forever to finish. I was hoping to have the vise screw by now but still don't have it. Decided to just drill the holes and get it together as it is needed for other projects right now. Itst perfect but it seems incredibly solid. I originally thought of making some drawers for the bottom but then was thinking it was a decent spot for cut off as I have no good place right now for them.

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[Teenager with old tools]

Picked up four planes today for five bucks a piece. Sadly the no50 has damage that was fixed but doesn't seem to affect usability. Then the other stanley is good. Trying to figure out that little no name that says made in USA. Says it on back of blade as well. Then the last one is a Fulton.

Sanding my slab. Been at the 320 grit on the palm sander for two hours today man I want some 320 for the 3x21 sanded but no stores have it. Been working on another project I should be done with soon too.

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[jimreed2160]

Drives--Are you cutting them beforehand or after placing them. Since you are using a bottom bracket I guess cutting before is OK. I set the last ones in dirt and held off trimming until they were set. As said, I would use 2x4 battens either nailed or clamped in place. Should not be too hard to set them at 45 degrees. I like outdoor stuff because the precision is much less than furniture. Just whack away and then plant a vine to cover.

rrich--Nice job. I am sure everyone enjoyed the build along as much as I did. Thanks for the pictures. I would leave the top and bottom alone. My workbench top is held in place by weight; yours is held in place by those tight M&T joints. Someday you will want to move it and knocking that top off will be very handy. As for the bottom, I made an open shelf and store woodscrews there. It keeps them close at hand but also leaves the space open for my legs and knees. Serious plane work requires lots of legwork and I think you will appreciate the open space. Now it's time to let the shavings fly!

 

[jimreed2160]

teen--good planes at an excellent price. I started out with junkers from antique shops because it was all I could afford. My plane education started when I fixed them up and used them. In fact, I found an old Stanley 100 that belonged to my grandfather. I remember working with it in my dads shop. I put a back bevel on it with a file! And no, it did not work very well. When I came across it again, I was able to grind out the backbevel and make it work. Of course I messed it up when I was 10 and fixed it when I was 67. That old plane had lots of patience.

Good luck getting yours back into service.

 

[nutsnbolts]

Good to see you here Drives...you have been missed on the PNW thread my friend

 

[ez-duzit]

1--I'd be proud to have that bench in my shop.

T--320-grit is way too fine for prepping that slab. Maybe 180.