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Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

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R_einan

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Aug 29, 2016
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461
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Eastern WA
R--looks like an early Christmas in your shop. The marking gage is a thing of beauty, isn't it?

It certainly is, I’ve never used one before but it seemed like a very useful tool if I can get it to work for me. I played with it a little today, and so far it seems very efficient. I’m looking forward to including it in my normal workflow and shortening my measuring and marking time while maintaining accuracy.
 
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jimreed2160

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Aug 7, 2016
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Tallahassee FL
New projects

When I walked into the shop this morning, the sun was streaming in through the window, illuminating the CLEAN BENCHTOPS. It was a sight to behold.

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I decided that most new projects for the time being should clear clutter out of the workshop. Here is a good one to start with--a vintage brass coal scuttle. It was big and in the way.

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I am sure your grandmother had one of these by her hearth just like mine did. I found this distressed one cheap. So I made a post to hammer it on.

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I bashed away. At once point I put channel lock pliers on a sock and bent the top. My new (to me) rawhide hammer did well and did not leave marks. I tapped away until it looked OK but before I broke something. Then I scrubbed it a little with a Scotchbrite pad to remove some of the dirt and bring out a little shine from the brass lurking underneath.

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The Queen ordered it placed by the hearth and requested a holiday poinsettia for it. Victory was mine.
 
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jimreed2160

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Woodworking vise

There is a clutter of woodworking vises around due to some snafu in procurement. Somehow the order for one never got closed and over a dozen snuck in before I could correct the situation. Some of them need repair, like this Desmond Stephen. It is a heavy duty vise and I think it dates from the late 1940s or 1950s.

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There is an unsightly paint streak on the face and it is missing its bench dog. Otherwise, it is in great shape.

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So I used it to help in the repair by clamping it to the bench. I pulled up a chair and started working on that paint.

Next was the dog. My former plane cutter business still provides much needed raw material because I have an ample supply of steel sticks in a variety of sizes. This dog requires 3/4" x 1/4" x 2". I found a 1" x 1/4" and that is close enough to start with.

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First I grabbed some scrap for a pattern.

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Marked it with a sharpie and started making sparks.

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After a little grinding, a dog emerged.

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But nothing is easy. The casting had a few boogers. The white spot in the lower corner was just one of several that needed to be filed down.

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But not easy filing. It was in a really tight spot and I had to use needle files.

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I was rewarded with a great fit.

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Turns out that a 5/16-18 x 3/4 bolt is the perfect keeper, so I marked the spot, punched it, and drilled through the dog. Then I got out my VERY INEXPENSIVE tap set and found a proper tap.

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Normally I lube with mineral spirits but the 3 in 1 was handy so I went with that. It was touch and go as the cheap tap strained. I turned a bit, backed off, turned, backed off until it was time to clean out chips at halftime. I lubed and continued with no broken tap.

The trial fit went just so-so. Turns out there were sprue issues on the bolt sides. It was just barely 5/16".

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It was another tight spot but this time Mr Dremel came to the rescue. A careful bit of zip-zop on the inside cleared the way.

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At this point, The Queen was overdue for lunch and I was whipped. I need to oil the screw (lightly) and make a pair of hickory faces so I can release this vise back into the wild.
 
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jar944

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Northern VA
Picked up another W&H moulder locally. Cabinet shop was all cnc router and getting rid of all older unused machines. Not a bad deal as I ended up with 32 pairs of knives and a older co-matic/grizzly 1/2 hp feeder all for $400.

Second pics are of the ongoing pantry project. 1.155" thick beaded face frames and doors. Doors have a 5/8 x 5/8 edge profile (exterior door cope and stick heads) with 69" tall uppers. Identical panels to match the fridge as well.
 

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chrislehr

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Portland, OR
Ive been working on a cedar raised bed for the wife.

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Also made this growth chart ruler for my boy

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Mr_P

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Tinley Park, IL
Here are some shots of my first Bandsaw box. I think it came out ok for my first. Just not sure on whether I want to stain it or not. It's Southern Yellow Pine (came from scrap I had in the shop). I really like the wood grain it has.

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jimreed2160

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Great projects. Looks like everyone is enjoying the fall weather.

Jar--You made out well. Those are stout cutters and it looks like you made good use of them. It is always nice to kick out a project every now and then to keep the better half on the good side of woodworking.

Aka--So you saw your vise as more of a kit. Good upgrades. Now it is ready for prime time.

Chris--Nice projects. Judging from the knee biter crawling and the height chart that reaches the stratosphere, you have big plans in mind. Well, I think a man should always reach for the stars.

Mr P--Nice box. How did you do the interior? I am not a fan of stained pine unless it is a grain enhancing stain. Too much pigment and it starts to look painted.

I think this means that I am behind in my projects. Challenges accepted!
 

Mr_P

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It's a four piece box. followed this guy's example. pretty easy once you watch it. You can then get creative and make many different shape boxes....
 

ztorres

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Sep 22, 2016
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195
Location
Iowa
Another good bandsaw box video similar to the one Mr_P shared.


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Swingpress

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Question for the furniture makers here.
How do I un-F this? Or can I?

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Swingpress

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Swingpress, any idea what happened to cause it? Is it solid or veneered?



It's solid. Best I can tell is that it got wet. I have taken small, light marks similar to this out of tables with mayo (of all things) . But nothing this heavy.
 

cheechi

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Feb 29, 2012
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Location
Triad, NC
Organization
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This organization thing is fun.
You didn't ask but when you first posted this I wanted to share some with you. I have one of those Dewalt cases, I think it came with a jigsaw blade kit. I have found things bang against each other in it unless they are small (jigsaw and sawzall blades) or have their own compartment.

I put my dowels (store bought) and points with the drills since they originally came as a kit and I have nice pilot point drills for them. Allen key, collar, points, all there sorted by size so you can't do it wrong if you try.
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I make super fancy storage for things that shouldn't be banging against each other, notice the spalted maple, walnut, and purpleheart used. That is 24k gold on the inlays too.
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Are those Kobalt taper drills? Mine are, pleasantly surprised they are USA made (probably by Stanley) and they do a good job.
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jimreed2160

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Swing--That spot looks like a shellac water mark. It looks bad but is probably just limited to the layer of finish. You can try some denatured alcohol to see if it will remove it. Otherwise a light abrasive like Scotchbrite pad to remove the finish. Then you can French polish or pad with shellac.

I like the finish of shellac but not its durablilty. That is why I start with shellac and then top it with poly.
 
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jimreed2160

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Cheechi--Nice organization. I have a few blocks like yours but yours look waaaay better. I never seemed to have much time for organization before but my recent organization projects are really paying off in time SAVINGS.
 

R_einan

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Eastern WA
Question for the furniture makers here.
How do I un-F this? Or can I?

Looks like shellac to me as well, Jim is correct, DNA will soften a shellac finish enough it can be removed from the substrate without damage. I used DNA and scotch brite pads to strip a Buffet my great grandfather build in ‘62, it was a veneered piece so abrasive removal could have damaged the veneer. Not sure what kind of piece it is, or how far you want to go with the project. Personally, I’ve never had much luck matching an aged shellac with new and blending it enough to satisfy me. I would likely strip off the old and refinish it completely with shellac. The nice thing about doing that is you don’t need to strip it perfectly, because new shellac with soften and bond with the remnants of the old finish.

Here is the buffet I refinished last winter and completed this spring.
 

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R_einan

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Cheechi--Nice organization. I have a few blocks like yours but yours look waaaay better. I never seemed to have much time for organization before but my recent organization projects are really paying off in time SAVINGS.

I did some similar pieces to organize my drill attachments but I set mine up for hanging on pegboard. Very handy and efficient
 

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jar944

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Some dresser repairs (three different dressers) I've been coerced into doing recently.

Somehow I also agreed to build two matching bow front dressers. That will be fun..not really
 

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R_einan

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Some dresser repairs (three different dressers) I've been coerced into doing recently.

Somehow I also agreed to build two matching bow front dressers. That will be fun..not really

I’m interested to see your progress reports during the build, I’ve never seen any bow front furniture designed or built.
 

rlitman

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Looks like it's ready for complete stripping, resurfacing and refinishing.

IF it is shellac, you should strip it with denatured alcohol. That will not remove any stain underneath, so you can easily repair it.

If it was done in poly, your only recourse is to start sanding, and then you've got to re-stain the top to match the rest.
 

ztorres

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Iowa
Went and got some lumber today and wanted to see what other people are paying for lumber. I picked up 8/4 cherry for $6.99/bf 8/4 Walnut for $13.99/bf 8/4 hard Maple for $6.99/bf and 4/4 Padauk for $9.99/bf. Seems like I might be getting gypped.


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Swingpress

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Thank you all for the tips on the water damage. Denatured alcohol is doing the trick so I might try my hand at French polishing the whole top.

As an aside, I'm also working on converting a card catalog into a wine holder for the wife. When I removed the drawer internal hardware I'm left with a gap in the bottom. Do I cut a bottom liner? Leave it open but line what is there with felt? Or leave it alone and call it good?218f9efef70622b1ffe4ed3a831d7822.jpg
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txvwnut

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That gap might be kinda nice for round bottles to keep them centered in the drawer but not so much so for the square bottles.
 
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jimreed2160

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Went and got some lumber today and wanted to see what other people are paying for lumber. I picked up 8/4 cherry for $6.99/bf 8/4 Walnut for $13.99/bf 8/4 hard Maple for $6.99/bf and 4/4 Padauk for $9.99/bf. Seems like I might be getting gypped.

It depends on quality. Is it finished like skip planed? How is the color? Defects? Does the walnut have lots of sapwood or is it clear?

With that being said, the cherry seems OK, the maple seems OK, the padauk seems really good, and the walnut seems high. In fact, that price on 8/4 walnut is EXACTLY DOUBLE what Wall Lumber sells it for. But again, quality can tip the scales.
 
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jimreed2160

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Swing--That is a great repurposing idea. I am sure there are 1000s of those things out there because all libraries are on line now. I would leave the gap (because I like to avoid unnecessary activity). Tell your wife that the bottles need to "breathe".
 

R_einan

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Went and got some lumber today and wanted to see what other people are paying for lumber. I picked up 8/4 cherry for $6.99/bf 8/4 Walnut for $13.99/bf 8/4 hard Maple for $6.99/bf and 4/4 Padauk for $9.99/bf. Seems like I might be getting gypped.


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8/4 walnut seems a touch high, maybe 10%, if it is straight grained with minimal defects and little figure. Cherry seems like a good price, and maple seems around average for my area. Not sure on the Paduak, never really priced it.

I’d say you did alright if you liked the material and the service.
 

Teenager with old tools

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riverside california
Went and got some lumber today and wanted to see what other people are paying for lumber. I picked up 8/4 cherry for $6.99/bf 8/4 Walnut for $13.99/bf 8/4 hard Maple for $6.99/bf and 4/4 Padauk for $9.99/bf. Seems like I might be getting gypped.


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Something like 5.40 or 5.90bf for maple here but one edge was rough finish and most pieces had slight taper to them

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drivesitfar

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Swing: i've got some metal cabinets with the same sort of gap as your old library cabinets and i used several materials to fill them. that said if you are just going to store round bottles of booze and wine in yours those gaps would be PERFECT so the bottles won't roll around if the drawers open and close ok.

JIM: glad to hear your inventory specialist was notified of your over purchases of your wood vises. :D

i've probably got a few wood vises that need spiffing up or that are missing DOGS so I for one appreciate the posts on how you fixed your old Desmond.

Teen: i'm guessing you are leaving for the NAVY soon now so wishing you the best and hope you are able to get on line and at least keep learning and maybe commenting as you have time. did your brother sign up so he can see the pictures and maybe ask questions or post some of his projects yet?
 

Bob Heine

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Jaws

I spent my shop time organizing and managed to make a set of hickory jaws for the vise. Here is the money shot.

DSCN4436.jpg
Jim, is it possible to buy a wood handle for my woodworking vise? Mine broke years ago so I used a length of galvanized pipe with caps instead. Besides being way too long, the handle bites me every time I use it. Now that my most recent blood blister has healed I'd like to disarm the vise. Buying a wood lathe is not an option.
 

Craptain

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Tampa Bay FL
Bob. I used a length of dowel in mine. I think it was about 5/8ths. Never did finish the knobs on the ends properly, but I promise I will one day.

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Locker537

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Sep 25, 2016
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488
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Massachusetts
Ive been working on a cedar raised bed for the wife.

ce696910c0463faf7c36c4629977c2e8.jpg

Also made this growth chart ruler for my boy

efb8e2d0fa1de48938ac62c9233b4cb5.jpg

I like the growth chart ruler! Did you use any tricks for the numbering?
 

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jimreed2160

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Jim, is it possible to buy a wood handle for my woodworking vise? Mine broke years ago so I used a length of galvanized pipe with caps instead. Besides being way too long, the handle bites me every time I use it. Now that my most recent blood blister has healed I'd like to disarm the vise. Buying a wood lathe is not an option.

How long? Most are about 10"-13". It would make a nice tutorial.
 

ez-duzit

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...is it possible to buy a wood handle for my woodworking vise?...

The handle is simply a dowel cut to length. The ends can easily be made by hole sawing a chunk of wood, first with a hole saw which will produce the proper OD of the end cap, and then with a hole saw or bit which will produce the properly sized ID to glue to the dowel.
 
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