lafester
Well-known member
Just heard back from the PO. She thinks they went with a duplicator she once had.
I'll come up with a use for the parts someday.
I'll come up with a use for the parts someday.
Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips
- Thread starter jimreed2160
- Start date
bczygan
Well-known member
What do you want to make?
What do you want to make it with?
Where do you have to do it?
Bill
Current state of the cabinet. After work tonight I got the second door fitted. I also planed down some of the right door. It got a twist in it and I should have done it before gluing the panel on but oh well. I checked my stock of mahogany that I have left and I don't have enough length wise pieces to make the top of the gallery under the plane til. I am headed to town in the morning to get some stronger magnets so I'll stop by and get a piece of wood as well from my lumber store. I might actually get this finished by the end of next week.
I'll still need to make tool holders but I am in no rush to do that. Those can be done with free time. I need to get started on the dresser and night stand guild build after this.
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I'll still need to make tool holders but I am in no rush to do that. Those can be done with free time. I need to get started on the dresser and night stand guild build after this.
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OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
rrich--Looks nice. That cabinet will get pretty heavy. How is it attached? French cleats?
I’d like to use hand tools as much as possible. I’d also like to make basic furniture like maybe bedside tables and what not. Nothing super extravagant. Some boxes of all sorts and things.
I have a single car garage that I’ve set up for working on my dirtbikes but I should have more than enough room to make another bench and have some room to work
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bczygan
Well-known member
To me, hand tools are a complement to power tools.
Yes, you can work wood completely with hand tools, but it is really labor intensive and physically demanding. Even small projects, like decorative boxes, are more easily done with the aid of some power tools.
I started out making small racks and holders for bits and tools, out of pine, to be screwed to the wall. Even there, a drill press made it easier to drill holes. And while I did cut off small pieces of lumber with a circular saw and straight edge, it had a 40 tooth carbide blade for smooth cuts. I did use a block plane to chamfer edges and a hand drill to pre-drill screw holes. And this is all with pine lumber that was already surfaced four sides.
Unless you see yourself taking rough green logs and splitting them and then using a scrub plane to flatten boards, then you are limited to buying boards and cutting and milling and shaping them.
Even then, with rough sawn lumber, it is way easier to joint and plane them with power equipment.
Making furniture? Then my purchases in order would be, jointer, table saw, band saw, drill press, planer and lathe. Actually you need all of these basic tools. Then you need the hand power tools and then the array of non power hand tools.
You need a bigger garage!
Bill
PS: Don't let this stop you from using a few planes, hand saws, miter box, chisels, etc. etc. Buy some Japanese type pull saws, an inexpensive new chisel set, sharpening stones, etc. And then start thinking about finishing!!!
YouTube videos are your friend.
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My lack of knowledge makes things harder for me to explain lol.
I would like to use power tools but I don’t want to be fully dependent on them. I know I’ll start small and slowly build up to bigger and better projects. Just trying to figure out where to start.
I have been watching a lot of videos on YouTube. As of now I think I’m going to pick up a narex set of chisels. From what I’ve been watching, everyone recommends starting with a no 4 Stanley. Does the
Model really matter? There’s some for 20-40 then jump to 150 and up. After that I’m pretty much at a loss of where to go as of now. I would like to pick up some saws but really do not know what brands to go with.
As far as sharpening I was thinking about just biting the bullet and picking up 2 diamond stones and eventually more to fill in the gap.
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
6--you don't need a set of chisels yet. You don't need 2 diamond stones. You'll soon be through your $200 budget and won't be equipped to make anything.
I guess I shouldn’t have put a amount I’m looking to spend up front. I know it will become an expensive hobby but looking to just get started. I would rather buy a few quality things then have a bunch of cheaper tools. Buy once, cry once.
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CRSINMICH
Well-known member
Malibu: You've already gotten a lot of good information but, speaking as a former teacher, you probably won't fully know what to make of it until you start working on some projects. As you do, I'd be willing to bet you'll find yourself thinking, "Oh, that's what they meant!" Start small and see where it leads you. Try to enjoy it.
Okay, here's my 2 cents. I am now completing a project using only hand tools. I learned quite a bit about hand tools and I enjoyed the process. However, I probably won't do that again. Some things are just too much work, like re-sawing. Even Paul Sellers uses a thickness planer. You'll have to decide for yourself where to draw the line.
By the way, a Stanley No.4 would be a good place to start for bench planes. They were well made and can be found under nearly every rock. They're surprisingly versatile. The numbers on bench planes generally relate to size and 4's are a good compromise. The reason for the wide fluctuation in prices is that Stanley manufactured them for a very long time and collectors gotta collect. Learn how to tune it up and how to sharpen the cutting iron. Oh man, are you gonna get opinions on that.
p.s. I second the idea of getting a few quality tools.
Okay, here's my 2 cents. I am now completing a project using only hand tools. I learned quite a bit about hand tools and I enjoyed the process. However, I probably won't do that again. Some things are just too much work, like re-sawing. Even Paul Sellers uses a thickness planer. You'll have to decide for yourself where to draw the line.
By the way, a Stanley No.4 would be a good place to start for bench planes. They were well made and can be found under nearly every rock. They're surprisingly versatile. The numbers on bench planes generally relate to size and 4's are a good compromise. The reason for the wide fluctuation in prices is that Stanley manufactured them for a very long time and collectors gotta collect. Learn how to tune it up and how to sharpen the cutting iron. Oh man, are you gonna get opinions on that.
p.s. I second the idea of getting a few quality tools.
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The back is split in two pieces and create French cleat. The break is behind the shelf. Both sections are screwed to the wall. The back is screwed to the carcass only right now. I might take it off and glue and Brad nail it along with the screws.
I went and got a piece of wood for the top of the gallery. I had to cut it into pieces and glued them back together to give me a u shape. Next I'll glue edging to some plywood for the bottom piece so no plywood edging is exposed. I'll then make the sides for the drawer area and route in the dados to attach it all together.
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I have gotten tons of information, it’s nice to have everyone’s help here! It just gets confusing when I don’t know where to start vs where I think I should start (which isn’t right obviously lol)
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
6--here's an idea of a place to start, so you will have some experience on which to base your tool purchases.
Build yourself a tool box/tote, something like this. The tools you'll need to build that will be a good start. You can substitute screws or nails for the biscuits.
https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/sites/default/files/assets/images/tooltote_illustration1.jpg
or
http://sawdustmaking.com/Childs Toolbox/toolbox.jpg
Build yourself a tool box/tote, something like this. The tools you'll need to build that will be a good start. You can substitute screws or nails for the biscuits.
https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/sites/default/files/assets/images/tooltote_illustration1.jpg
or
http://sawdustmaking.com/Childs Toolbox/toolbox.jpg
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bczygan
Well-known member
Here is a place to start.
It's a teaching and learning method called SLOYD.
Here's a link to the book of SLOYD:
http://www.woodworkslibrary.com/repository/the_sloyd_system_of_wood_working.pdf
Go to about page 140 in the book to find the simple projects and how to do them.
These simple projects will teach you the basics of manual woodworking.
Try it.
Bill
It's a teaching and learning method called SLOYD.
Here's a link to the book of SLOYD:
http://www.woodworkslibrary.com/repository/the_sloyd_system_of_wood_working.pdf
Go to about page 140 in the book to find the simple projects and how to do them.
These simple projects will teach you the basics of manual woodworking.
Try it.
Bill
bczygan
Well-known member
Watch "The Woodwrights Shop"
http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/watch-on-line/watch-season-episodes/2006-2007-episodes/
Episodes by year:
http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/watch-on-line/watch-season-episodes/
Make a pair of bench hooks.
http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/watch-on-line/watch-season-episodes/2006-2007-episodes/
Episodes by year:
http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/watch-on-line/watch-season-episodes/
Make a pair of bench hooks.
BMR24
Well-known member
Malibu
The English woodworker has some good blog posts about tools and tequniques and videos using a limited amount of tools. He also has project videos for sale but I've never bought any so I don't know what they are like
The English woodworker has some good blog posts about tools and tequniques and videos using a limited amount of tools. He also has project videos for sale but I've never bought any so I don't know what they are like
bczygan
Well-known member
Another good project is making a mallet.
Bill
Bill
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
The interruption yesterday was due to an emergency storm door installation. I needed to get the dang things out of the living room. Iit took the better part of the day, along with three tee shirts, to get them hung in the 90+ degree weather.
So now we are back to woodworking. Over twenty years ago, The Queen was racking and stacking the bucks as an independent technical writer during the Y2K era. She was very kind to me and bought me many woodworking tools. One in particular was an edge guide. I have been carrying it around ever since but never had the occasion to use it. Well that changed yesterday when I opened it and used it for the first time.
When I installed the new Gladiator cabinets, I found a 3x6 sheet of 3/4" plywood hidden away. Part of the Gladiator install is to build a riser for a cabinet and a chest. I started drawing away and calculating the cut list. Of course, you might think that the IT guy would crank up a program. But why do that when you can have a little mental exercise!? My dad always coached me to think ahead, start with the big pieces, and have little scrap. Well, dad would be proud of this effort. I cut all pieces for the riser boxes and ended up with two scraps that were about 2x10. Pretty dang good, sez I.
The 50" saw guide turned my little cordless Porter Cable saw into a Festool and broke down the large sheet in no time. I even used the guide later to cut some cardboard. I guess when you have a hammer, everything does look like a nail.
So now we are back to woodworking. Over twenty years ago, The Queen was racking and stacking the bucks as an independent technical writer during the Y2K era. She was very kind to me and bought me many woodworking tools. One in particular was an edge guide. I have been carrying it around ever since but never had the occasion to use it. Well that changed yesterday when I opened it and used it for the first time.
When I installed the new Gladiator cabinets, I found a 3x6 sheet of 3/4" plywood hidden away. Part of the Gladiator install is to build a riser for a cabinet and a chest. I started drawing away and calculating the cut list. Of course, you might think that the IT guy would crank up a program. But why do that when you can have a little mental exercise!? My dad always coached me to think ahead, start with the big pieces, and have little scrap. Well, dad would be proud of this effort. I cut all pieces for the riser boxes and ended up with two scraps that were about 2x10. Pretty dang good, sez I.
The 50" saw guide turned my little cordless Porter Cable saw into a Festool and broke down the large sheet in no time. I even used the guide later to cut some cardboard. I guess when you have a hammer, everything does look like a nail.
Attachments
bczygan
Well-known member
I have the HF equiv.
Handy!
Bill
Handy!
Bill
A whole lot of progress the last 24 hrs.
First I cut out a section of the top doors to allow more room for the planes in the til. Now I am able to turn them handle up and not come in contact with the door. I drilled a 5/8" hole and used the band saw to cut the pieces out. Worked really well. Before and after pics below.
Second I made door stops with magnets in the interior doors. The left door is being stubborn though and won't stay "latched". I'll mess with it some more.
Third I got 80% of the gallery done. I made a mistake today I told myself yestery to not do. The drawer area on the left and right has a shelf. That shelf I cut too short. To fix it I was going to make the dad and rabbet shallower. Well...I didn't. I will most likely put some strips in there to fill the gaps.
Hopefully I can get the gallery out. It is super tight in there right now. Once I get the gallery to my liking I'll glue it up and the it is the dovetailed drawers. Getting closer to the finish line.
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First I cut out a section of the top doors to allow more room for the planes in the til. Now I am able to turn them handle up and not come in contact with the door. I drilled a 5/8" hole and used the band saw to cut the pieces out. Worked really well. Before and after pics below.
Second I made door stops with magnets in the interior doors. The left door is being stubborn though and won't stay "latched". I'll mess with it some more.
Third I got 80% of the gallery done. I made a mistake today I told myself yestery to not do. The drawer area on the left and right has a shelf. That shelf I cut too short. To fix it I was going to make the dad and rabbet shallower. Well...I didn't. I will most likely put some strips in there to fill the gaps.
Hopefully I can get the gallery out. It is super tight in there right now. Once I get the gallery to my liking I'll glue it up and the it is the dovetailed drawers. Getting closer to the finish line.
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
Not even close.
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Quick draw
Ten years ago, a buddy alerted me to a sale on DeWalt corded drills. HD had a closeout for $19 that was too good to pass up. I have used it for years in my grinder room but it came up surplus when that room was refurbished. Lately I have used it with a wire brush to knock rust off tools. It has a variable speed trigger and works great for that application. EXCEPT that it takes up lots of precious flat space on the workbench. Today the light bulb went off and I hung it up just under the Reed vise. WooHoo! Problem solved.
I started with a curtain support that I found while cleaning up. It was so sturdy that I could not trash it. Turns out it was perfect for the job. I just clamped it into the vise and bashed away with a large ball peen hammer. Then I screwed it into the workbench leg.
The drill stays plugged in and ready for work. Bonus is that it is very close to the drill press and bit storage drawer. With its friction chuck, it can quickly be converted from brushing to hole punching.
Ten years ago, a buddy alerted me to a sale on DeWalt corded drills. HD had a closeout for $19 that was too good to pass up. I have used it for years in my grinder room but it came up surplus when that room was refurbished. Lately I have used it with a wire brush to knock rust off tools. It has a variable speed trigger and works great for that application. EXCEPT that it takes up lots of precious flat space on the workbench. Today the light bulb went off and I hung it up just under the Reed vise. WooHoo! Problem solved.
I started with a curtain support that I found while cleaning up. It was so sturdy that I could not trash it. Turns out it was perfect for the job. I just clamped it into the vise and bashed away with a large ball peen hammer. Then I screwed it into the workbench leg.
The drill stays plugged in and ready for work. Bonus is that it is very close to the drill press and bit storage drawer. With its friction chuck, it can quickly be converted from brushing to hole punching.
Attachments
Yesterday I glued up the plane til and today I got it sanded and planed down. It fits and I'm happy. Still needs finish on it.
Most of my time today was taken up by replacing the water pump on my wife's escape. Three trips to town and it's done. While I waited to do certain things to the car I was able to get stuff done to the cabinet.
Today I got the accessory holders made for all of my measurement tools. It took a while but I made a layout that I liked. To help secure the pieces in the holders, I drilled a hole in the back and placed a small magnet in the hole. No enough to make it difficult to get the pieces out but strong enough that they dont fall out when opening the door.
Last night I did make the spokeshave shoulder. No super happy with it but it will do the job just fine and it's on top out of my line of sight.
I also started on holder for my marking guage and dividers. I made an extra slot for another guage.
I started to make a chisel rack layout but didn't start that one yet. I have the DeWalt chisels but want the lie Nielsen chisels really badly. I don't want to drill holes too big and have to redo them.
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Most of my time today was taken up by replacing the water pump on my wife's escape. Three trips to town and it's done. While I waited to do certain things to the car I was able to get stuff done to the cabinet.
Today I got the accessory holders made for all of my measurement tools. It took a while but I made a layout that I liked. To help secure the pieces in the holders, I drilled a hole in the back and placed a small magnet in the hole. No enough to make it difficult to get the pieces out but strong enough that they dont fall out when opening the door.
Last night I did make the spokeshave shoulder. No super happy with it but it will do the job just fine and it's on top out of my line of sight.
I also started on holder for my marking guage and dividers. I made an extra slot for another guage.
I started to make a chisel rack layout but didn't start that one yet. I have the DeWalt chisels but want the lie Nielsen chisels really badly. I don't want to drill holes too big and have to redo them.
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OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
rrich--Looking good as it fills up.
Woodworkers, does anyone know of a source for gloss varnish? (not poly, not spar varnish, not water based/fast drying varnish, not any "fake" varnish)
My last varnish purchase was at Ace and they no longer stock it. (only spar)
I mix it with equal parts BLO and Turpentine and it makes a wonderful, rich, close to the surface finish. (Sam Maloof's formula)
Now I can't find it any place.
My last varnish purchase was at Ace and they no longer stock it. (only spar)
I mix it with equal parts BLO and Turpentine and it makes a wonderful, rich, close to the surface finish. (Sam Maloof's formula)
Now I can't find it any place.
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
Dave: From the Sam Maloof recipe you gave it seems like you want true varnish. I don't know how glossy this product is but it is a blend of BLO and varnish. It's called Tried and True Varnish Oil. Tom Fidgen uses it. Here's a link. I hope this helps.
https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/varnish-oil/
https://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/products/varnish-oil/
bczygan
Well-known member
bczygan
Well-known member
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
ALL: I found this information about traditional finishes and thought it was an interesting read. The article is from 1988 so some of the information may be out of date. (That makes me feel old. I'm from 1951!) Anyway, read it if you like and make of it what you will.
http://www.kramers.org/finishes.htm
p.s. Anyone know if there is a wood finishing thread on GJ?
http://www.kramers.org/finishes.htm
p.s. Anyone know if there is a wood finishing thread on GJ?
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
Try a marine chandlery for high quality varnish.
Shiftless
Well-known member
CRS:
Thanks for that link. I just finished reading it. I noted the receipe for traditional Japanning which is applicable to finishing cast iron I suppose...
Now I just have to find a little bit of asphaltum.
Edit: I just found out that asphaltum is available in small tubes at Blick Art supply stores. There is one only 5 miles from my house.
Thanks for that link. I just finished reading it. I noted the receipe for traditional Japanning which is applicable to finishing cast iron I suppose...
Now I just have to find a little bit of asphaltum.
Edit: I just found out that asphaltum is available in small tubes at Blick Art supply stores. There is one only 5 miles from my house.
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OP
jimreed2160
Well-known member
Ouch!
Had a few minutes today so I got out the Kreg jig and worked on the two riser boxes. After attaching the first one, I went to flip it over and it was STUCK to the BENCH. Not just any bench, but my woodworking BENCH. I did a test joint and it was fine but I guess I hit a void in the plywood. Ugh.
So I backed the screw out to release the project and finished quickly. The rest of the assembly went fine but I was left with a HOLE in my bench. It was not that bad but the hole really bothered me so I hunted for some beech. The scrap pile is in a mess right now and I had to pick from the good stuff.
I sawed a corner on the bandsaw and then reduced it with the coping saw and a Japanese chisel. Once I had a small nibblet, I smeared the hole with glue and let the nibblet sit for a few minutes before sending it home with the wooden mallet and a piece of plywood. We will see how good the patch is tomorrow.
Had a few minutes today so I got out the Kreg jig and worked on the two riser boxes. After attaching the first one, I went to flip it over and it was STUCK to the BENCH. Not just any bench, but my woodworking BENCH. I did a test joint and it was fine but I guess I hit a void in the plywood. Ugh.
So I backed the screw out to release the project and finished quickly. The rest of the assembly went fine but I was left with a HOLE in my bench. It was not that bad but the hole really bothered me so I hunted for some beech. The scrap pile is in a mess right now and I had to pick from the good stuff.
I sawed a corner on the bandsaw and then reduced it with the coping saw and a Japanese chisel. Once I had a small nibblet, I smeared the hole with glue and let the nibblet sit for a few minutes before sending it home with the wooden mallet and a piece of plywood. We will see how good the patch is tomorrow.
Attachments
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
Shift: I wondered about making Japanning enamel too and there's a Blick's less than a mile from me. They're also a good source for fine quality BLO but be careful. Artists like to have some extra slow drying BLO to add to their paints sometimes. Read the labels.
EZ: That's a great suggestion. I never thought of a chandlery or even the word "chandlery" but a good one would have some very good finishes.
EZ: That's a great suggestion. I never thought of a chandlery or even the word "chandlery" but a good one would have some very good finishes.
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
ALL: while you guys are mentioning varnish and stains is there a shelf life for them cause i have gallons of the stuff I just brought home from my parent's home that I bet is over 30 years old?
I was going to take to dump or put kitty litter in most of it, but if some is still ok I don't mind putting it on a shelf and maybe giving it a try.
what say you?
thanks in advance
I was going to take to dump or put kitty litter in most of it, but if some is still ok I don't mind putting it on a shelf and maybe giving it a try.
what say you?
thanks in advance
Unless they're dried up, I bet they'd be just fine. Even if there's a small skin just puncture it and strain the contents into a new can. You can always test them on a piece of scrap.
I'm discovering some of the older products are actually better then what we can get today. Modern products all seem to be water based, low VOC, lower end ingredients, etc.
If I were refinishing a floor, I'd probably opt for new polyurethane based products but for restoring old cabinets, furniture, etc the older finishes should be just fine as long as you're careful with them.
One example is old Watco oil which was based on an asphaltum pigment. They changed the forumula and it's no longer as nice looking.
rlitman
Well-known member
Oil based finishes hold up well over time in the can. Exposure to air is what dries them up and forms that skin. A tablespoon of linseed oil dripped on the surface when you close the can can prevent the skin.
FYI, old shellac is not necessarily safe. As the can has been opened, it ***** in moisture from the air, and that can leave you with something that may no longer dry.