If you ran a link belt on an alum pulley for a 100 years you might see some extra wear.
Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips
- Thread starter jimreed2160
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If you ran a link belt on an alum pulley for a 100 years you might see some extra wear.
rlitman
Well-known member
It doesn’t take that long. At work, we wear out cast iron blower (continuous operation) pulleys about every 3 years. And those are using clogged belts, not link. Aluminum wouldn’t last us 6 months.
I'll probably run my table saw, I don't know, an hour of actual run time a week? If the pulleys wear at the same rate as your blower pulleys, I'll get 80+ years out of mine.
Will agree with you that Cabinetmaking and Millwork is one of the best reference books around. I actually have 2 copies. Bought a copy at a garage sale but must have forgotten that I already one at home
. Will pass this 2nd one to my son who is taking up woodworking.But I might disagree about router tables. It seems that something like that existed almost a 100 years earlier. To explain: I just saw an episode on the Woodwright’s Shop titled ‘Rise of the Machines’ where Roy shows off several hand & foot powered machines such as a lathe, drill press, etc. One was called a former or shaper and came with a box containing multiple cutter heads. Sure looked like the forerunner of today’s router table. If you’re interested in these old types of machines, spend a little time on Google and you should be able to see it.
jar944
Well-known member
I also some how have 2 copies of that book.
And Shapers from 4000lb machines down to the small router table size delta ld's have been around since wooden machine tables and babbitt bearings (a looooong time)
Routers based on universal motors stuck in a table, not nearly as long.
And Shapers from 4000lb machines down to the small router table size delta ld's have been around since wooden machine tables and babbitt bearings (a looooong time)
Routers based on universal motors stuck in a table, not nearly as long.
rlitman
Well-known member
Well, pulley wear has a lot to do with how much horsepower you try to put through a sheave, plus wrap angles and sheave diameters, plus having the correct tension and alignment.
We're running 10HP through double B sized belts, and replace belts at least quarterly in matched pairs. How that relates to table saw usage is to be debated.
My experience with worn out table saw pulleys is limited, but I own a PM66 with a 3HP motor that I bought used, with an unknown number of hours. It came with a triple V belt drive, and while the cast iron motor pulley was in perfect condition, the aluminum arbor pulley was completely U'd out (and the arbor bearings were shot too). I looked up the Browning charts, and found out that the reason that the arbor pulley was aluminum was that it was a non-standard probably custom size because it was triple groove. But that size was easy to get in a double groove. So, I switched to an iron double groove and went with cogged belts that were supposed to carry more horsepower in that double, vs the original triple configuration.
So what does that mean for you? Probably not that much. In my home uses (drill presses, tablesaws, milling machines, etc.), I've never worn out an aluminum pulley, and I doubt your link belt will be a problem. In production use, it might.
jar944
Well-known member
Working on some movie room built-ins. Still need to finish the upper boxes, and panels and second set of doors. Hopefully I can knock that and paint everything by sunday...
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jar944
Well-known member
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jar: you always post some great projects and your work is AWESOME.
just asking how much you use a shaper and which bits do you like using or are you using a router for all this work?
what brand and size shaper would you recommend? is a grizzly 1.5 or 3hp ok or ?
keep up the great work
ALL: i'm going to cut a bunch of notches in my cedar 6x6's and wondering if I should make a jig for my router or just keep using my Ryobi 18v saw and big chisel? the pics I posted were a 6x6 on my wife's pergola in her work area and the other one was an 8x8 cedar post on my mailbox
just asking how much you use a shaper and which bits do you like using or are you using a router for all this work?
what brand and size shaper would you recommend? is a grizzly 1.5 or 3hp ok or ?
keep up the great work
ALL: i'm going to cut a bunch of notches in my cedar 6x6's and wondering if I should make a jig for my router or just keep using my Ryobi 18v saw and big chisel? the pics I posted were a 6x6 on my wife's pergola in her work area and the other one was an 8x8 cedar post on my mailbox
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ez-duzit
Well-known member
4--very nice.
jar944
Well-known member
I use my shaper(s) all the time. For the typical door work (sticking, coping) as well as rebates, panel raising, groove cutting, making moulding.. the list goes on and on. I rarely use my router table, everything is better on a shaper.
As for cutters I have a lot, but I likely use a alternating shear rebate head the most (just realized it's not in the pic below). After that it's a toss up.
Some of the heads
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Shaper wise the bigger the better, you can't go too big. More hp and a larger spindle just make things easier. Also the fence on the shaper really makes a difference. The grizzly fences are toward the bottom, but truthfully the delta hd and powermatic 26/27 shapers are no better.
I wouldn't go smaller than 3hp if possible. I have a 3hp, 5hp and ~6hp shaper. Ideally I'd like 7.5 minimum with 10 being good enough for anything (but that's more than what most people want /need being those are typically 1500lb and larger machines)
This is the larger shaper being used to make door parts
I will also say that while a power feed isn't absolutely necessary, it's really close to necessary to get full functionality.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jar: having the right tools really does make a difference especially if you have the skills you do and it shows.
the power feeders i've seen used for sale cost almost as much or sometimes more than the 3hp shapers, but i can see why you and others like using them. if I wanted to buy a power feeder and use it on my planer could I also use it on my shaper or other tools or is it a PITA to set up on each tool?
thanks for showing me what the pros (and you) use so I know what i'm aiming for.
at the moment I've got a dewalt 735 planer, Jet 6 inch planer, several power hand planers, more than a few circular and miter saws and sanders and a fair amount of hand tools so i'm working my way from a wood butcher to a woodworker and hopefully i'll get there before I leave this world.
cheers
the power feeders i've seen used for sale cost almost as much or sometimes more than the 3hp shapers, but i can see why you and others like using them. if I wanted to buy a power feeder and use it on my planer could I also use it on my shaper or other tools or is it a PITA to set up on each tool?
thanks for showing me what the pros (and you) use so I know what i'm aiming for.
at the moment I've got a dewalt 735 planer, Jet 6 inch planer, several power hand planers, more than a few circular and miter saws and sanders and a fair amount of hand tools so i'm working my way from a wood butcher to a woodworker and hopefully i'll get there before I leave this world.
cheers
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jar944
Well-known member
Ive been lucky in that almost all of my machines were picked up used. The shaper and feeder from the video were $400 total. I have 5 feeders and 3 came on machines, but the other two were $50 and $100.
You can set feeders on different tools if you have a clamp on base adaptor, however they are not light or very easy to move around. The 1/2 hp units are typically 130lbs and the 1hp are 150lbs or more if a 4 wheel unit. Besides shapers people mount them on bandsaws, tablesaws and jointers typically.
Obviously its possible do amazing work with just hand tools, and there are small one man cabinet shops building high end custom full kitchens with just a router table. The larger dedicated machines just make things faster and hopefully easier.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jar: once I finish my cedar fence and deck who knows maybe my wife will let me make our kitchen cabinets.
again nice work on the home theater and I had one planned in a second floor addition almost 30 years ago after seeing one in person at a street of dreams million dollar home and then we got twins so my bride's job became a stay at home mom since the twins were #4 & #5.
i'd still like to build the second story cause I had a theater, golf driving range, master bath and extra room for our little girl who was 2 when twins were born. my bride not so much now so that ship probably has sailed. the view from our roof was better and is still pretty good hence me wanting to go in debt for this addition. 30 years ago the view from our main floor was just as good before neighbor's trees got in the way.
what kind of TV or screen are you putting in your room or do you have a thread started talking about it?
ALL: For those of you that like to " measure once and cut twice" here's a great youtube video that you should watch.
once you are finished with that and getting all the information you can from it Matt does have some pretty good videos and his carry toolbox is something i'd like to own.
have a great weekend!!
QUESTION: are these made in England wood handled tools old paint scrapers for molding or do tell?
again nice work on the home theater and I had one planned in a second floor addition almost 30 years ago after seeing one in person at a street of dreams million dollar home and then we got twins so my bride's job became a stay at home mom since the twins were #4 & #5.
i'd still like to build the second story cause I had a theater, golf driving range, master bath and extra room for our little girl who was 2 when twins were born. my bride not so much now so that ship probably has sailed. the view from our roof was better and is still pretty good hence me wanting to go in debt for this addition. 30 years ago the view from our main floor was just as good before neighbor's trees got in the way.
what kind of TV or screen are you putting in your room or do you have a thread started talking about it?
ALL: For those of you that like to " measure once and cut twice" here's a great youtube video that you should watch.
once you are finished with that and getting all the information you can from it Matt does have some pretty good videos and his carry toolbox is something i'd like to own.
have a great weekend!!
QUESTION: are these made in England wood handled tools old paint scrapers for molding or do tell?
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jar944
Well-known member
The scrapers look like ones I've seen used on Windows and doors. Using them on moulding would work.
As for the theater its just a optoma projector and a 120" screen. Projectors are so cheap now, they cost less than most decent sized TVs
landrover bodger
Well-known member
the scrapers are what we know as shave hooks used by painters for removing old paint . they often reshape the blades to match the shape of what they are removing paint from .
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Jar: is the huge TV for games, movies, kids or all of the above? small rooms with huge screens were and are a great idea and your cabinetry around your screen looks great.
Jar and LD: I posted these Made in England tools on a few other threads and the members that saw them said pretty much the same thing that they are for paint scraping and molding work.
ALL: I was going to build a temporary (well it will be at the end of my Dewalt 735 planer most of next year) workbench/table and found this old free one I think will work just fine. I think i'll punch the nails down a 1/4 inch so I can hit the top with my Craftsman 3.25 power planer and if it's not smooth enough i'll add some 3/4 inch plywood that has laminate on it. or would a belt sander maybe be an easier method? or should I not bother with the planing and sanding and just put the laminated plywood on top? this bench will be on the end of the blue bench that will have my Dewalt planer on it.
hope you are all having a great weekend.
Jar and LD: I posted these Made in England tools on a few other threads and the members that saw them said pretty much the same thing that they are for paint scraping and molding work.
ALL: I was going to build a temporary (well it will be at the end of my Dewalt 735 planer most of next year) workbench/table and found this old free one I think will work just fine. I think i'll punch the nails down a 1/4 inch so I can hit the top with my Craftsman 3.25 power planer and if it's not smooth enough i'll add some 3/4 inch plywood that has laminate on it. or would a belt sander maybe be an easier method? or should I not bother with the planing and sanding and just put the laminated plywood on top? this bench will be on the end of the blue bench that will have my Dewalt planer on it.
hope you are all having a great weekend.
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Ha! I hadn't checked my email yet. Thanks for letting me know!@rrich1 I just got the weekly email from TWW. I love scrolling through the completed projects and I get to the bottom and say “Hey, that guy on GJ!!!”.
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raskal
Well-known member
Yes. I was picked as the woodworker of the month from the guild Facebook page after completing the dresser.
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raskal
Well-known member
Congrats!!
I was voted best woodworker of my house once (the voting was rigged however)
Unruh
Well-known member
Hello guys! I’m getting ready to make a table saw crosscut sled. I want to use only one miter bar that will normally be using the left runner. Then if I have to make an angled cut I can pull the sled over to the right runner and the piece will then hang off the edge of the sled and not ruin my zero clearance cut. Has anyone only used one miter on their sled? Can this be done?
Below is a quick mock up of my idea, measurements will likely change.
Below is a quick mock up of my idea, measurements will likely change.
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John malecki made one. Here is the link to the free plan. Does both 90 degree and 45 degree bevel cuts.Hello guys! I’m getting ready to make a table saw crosscut sled. I want to use only one miter bar that will normally be using the left runner. Then if I have to make an angled cut I can pull the sled over to the right runner and the piece will then hang off the edge of the sled and not ruin my zero clearance cut. Has anyone only used one miter on their sled? Can this be done?
Below is a quick mock up of my idea, measurements will likely change.
https://johnmalecki.com/product/crosscut-sled-plan/
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raskal
Well-known member
I downloaded it, and I was expecting more. It says it's 10 pages of details, the PDF is only 6 pages.
I've attached the only image that's not just a drawing
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byacey
Active member
That's a marking gauge; more accurate than a pencil mark.
I think the one shown is made by Veritas, a Lee Valley product.
Ya. In the lower description of the page I linked it says 6 pages but it says 10 in the first paragraph. Here is a video with it too. Whether you follow the plan or not it gives you a base and let's you know it does work.
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Veritas is my favorite marking gauge. If you do not have any type of one I highly suggest it. Heck out matt estlea on YouTube. I believe he did a good video on them a few years ago.
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raskal
Well-known member
The video is probably enough for Unrah to get the idea from. The slight hassle of filling all the information out at the Malecki is not really needed.
I got a kick out of him using purpleheart for a runner. That kind of wood would sit in my shop for years before I found a use worthy of it, and he uses it for a runner
Craptain
Well-known member
LOL. My sled uses Ipe for the runners. About 5 years and no detectable wear.
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HenryAZ
MEMBER EMERITUS
I always used Teak for the runners, a naturally oily hardwood, which helped with the sliding. I would make the runners a tight fit at first, and then trim them down with a rabbet plane after the plywood bottom was on to make sure it slid easily but was not sloppy.
Also, I always made my cutoff boxes use both miter gauge slots, the box about 12" front to back of usable space. First thing, take the plywood bottom and attach the runners. Then carefully wind the saw up into it in the middle, leaving good plywood at the front and back. Then used the saw cut as a reference line, with a square, to place the front and back solid wood uprights, to make sure the cuts would be square to the blade. A box that's too long front to back becomes unwieldy at times, wanting to fall off the back side of the saw, and 12" of open space is more than enough for almost all cutoffs. When the boxes started to wear a bit, I'd wind dado cutters up into them for other uses. Always had a newish and older box on hand, rotating them to the free wood box as needed and making a new one.
I often tacked strips of wood to the bottom for making angle cuts, using a bevel square to position the strips.
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Unruh
Well-known member
The video is probably enough for Unrah to get the idea from. The slight hassle of filling all the information out at the Malecki is not really needed.
I got a kick out of him using purpleheart for a runner. That kind of wood would sit in my shop for years before I found a use worthy of it, and he uses it for a runner
Lol, I have some Purple Heart sitting around and was thinking, “No way am I using that for runners!”.
I have some bamboo flooring left over and was thinking of trying one of them.
Farmerjonathan
Well-known member
I didn't go back and look where the person you were talking about the Purple Heart comes from, but if he/she is in Africa, Purple Heart there is like pine here. Used to get Purple Heart from pallets from Africa until they started spraying them with chemicals.
drivesitfar
Well-known member
BYACEY: sorry I don't recall what that tool was when I asked that question so if you could repost a picture of it if you have time that might help me (us) know what you are talking about.
that said it looks like you are a new member and sounds like you have some skills and knowledge to share so WELCOME TO GJ!!
RR: Woodworker awards are a given with the work you've been doing and the dresser was just another KEEPER of the many you've showed here.
ALL: i'm eliminating the pegboard or actually putting shelving over it and making that area more usuable in my garage. cutting in the angles in at the end is working fine and nailing a little support board under the ends and nailing them in with my "NEW TO ME" Dewalt 18v nailer is a lot easier than pulling out my pancake compressor and old nailers.
I think a couple of these shelves might hold a few old vises so i can get them out of storage or under benches now that my bride understands that I like them and she doesn't ask why when I go to pick up another one.
that said it looks like you are a new member and sounds like you have some skills and knowledge to share so WELCOME TO GJ!!
RR: Woodworker awards are a given with the work you've been doing and the dresser was just another KEEPER of the many you've showed here.
ALL: i'm eliminating the pegboard or actually putting shelving over it and making that area more usuable in my garage. cutting in the angles in at the end is working fine and nailing a little support board under the ends and nailing them in with my "NEW TO ME" Dewalt 18v nailer is a lot easier than pulling out my pancake compressor and old nailers.
I think a couple of these shelves might hold a few old vises so i can get them out of storage or under benches now that my bride understands that I like them and she doesn't ask why when I go to pick up another one.
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arcier
Member
I agree that a good workbench is probably the most important element in your shop except maybe a quality table saw. I built a wider version of the 21st Century Workbench by Robert W. Lang several years ago and have been very pleased with it's functionality and stability.
fartymarty
Well-known member
I'm sure BYACEY is busy making stuff in his garage, so since I'm sitting around in the early afternoon still in sleepware and nursing a second cup o jo while I police the internet ..I'll just jump in here..OK? BYACEY can correct me when he's finished doing his important stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011S6MVQU/?tag=atomicindus08-20
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6093493&postcount=27
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drivesitfar
Well-known member
Marty: those look pretty fancy. i've got some that do the same job that are made of wood and have a sharp nail to do the marking.
thanks for that assist!!
thanks for that assist!!
raskal
Well-known member
since we are all chatty today, what hand saw do you like for dovetail type work? Lee Valley has nice and pricey ones, but do you know of a hidden gem? I've just been using a Japanese style one, but I'd like a little more rigidity