Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

[jimreed2160]

Table saw blades, jointer fence etc., I am extending my ww skills into finer and stained projects so I need to be on a bit more precise level since there is little room to hide things.

No sure what level of squareness that requires.

Well on an average furniture project it is hard to spot most errors less than 1/16" . Depends on where they are. Square and parallel are very important at join time. Things can also get bad when multiplied, as with 4 table legs just slightly off.

 

[acer66]

Well on an average furniture project it is hard to spot most errors less than 1/16" . Depends on where they are. Square and parallel are very important at join time. Things can also get bad when multiplied, as with 4 table legs just slightly off.

Thank you for clearing that up.
Do you have a recommendation for a usa/euro made square?

 

[ez-duzit]

Well on an average furniture project it is hard to spot most errors less than 1/16"...

If you're building furniture you'd better be able to get much closer than this.

For most woodworking machinery setups a quality adjustable square will do the job and be useful on virtually every project.

 

[manwithtools]

Well on an average furniture project it is hard to spot most errors less than 1/16" . Depends on where they are. Square and parallel are very important at join time. Things can also get bad when multiplied, as with 4 table legs just slightly off.

Thank you for clearing that up.
Do you have a recommendation for a usa/euro made square?

I'm sorry, I just can't agree with Jim on this.

1/16" is not furniture work, it's really not even finish carpentry work - it's just slightly better than rough carpentry. Anything over 1/64" is visible to the naked eye. If you are experienced with close tolerance work, 1/128" is quite visible.

The better your measurement equipment and technique is, the better results you will have. I'd recommend a good Starrett or Mitutoyo adjustable square to start with. They don't have to be new, good used ones can be found, just pay attention to condition and squareness. That's easy to check BTW.

 

[jar944]

Finally finished this
View media item 98023

 

[lardy1]

Very nice.

 

[ez-duzit]

4--really looks good from here.

 

[raskal]

Jar, I can see on the right side you're out 1/64th.

 

[Minnesota Steve]

I'm sorry, I just can't agree with Jim on this.

1/16" is not furniture work, it's really not even finish carpentry work - it's just slightly better than rough carpentry. Anything over 1/64" is visible to the naked eye. If you are experienced with close tolerance work, 1/128" is quite visible.

The better your measurement equipment and technique is, the better results you will have. I'd recommend a good Starrett or Mitutoyo adjustable square to start with. They don't have to be new, good used ones can be found, just pay attention to condition and squareness. That's easy to check BTW.

If you really want to get good at making furniture... learn how to do it without a tape measure.

 

[jar944]

Jar, I can see on the right side you're out 1/64th.

Lol.. I use calipers (not kidding)

The doors were a friction fit to start then opened up to .080" for seasonal movement and hinge clearance (could only have done as tight as 060" with these hinges)

Depending on what I'm doing it could be to .001 (line borer stops) or 1/4" (anything non critical)

 

[manwithtools]

If you really want to get good at making furniture... learn how to do it without a tape measure.

I can and have made furniture without a tape measure. It's a bit difficult to setup machinery or mark cuts without a good square....

 

[ez-duzit]

If you really want to get good at making furniture... learn how to do it without a tape measure.

Buncha baloney.

 

[jimreed2160]

jar--Nice work. Really nice work. I am bringing the popcorn.

 

[drivesitfar]

JIM: welcome back!!

how did the Queen like the new bathroom vanity?

JAR: now all you need is a few good movies and we won't see you making any more woodworking projects or did you make this for your kids and bride?

looks AMAZING!

ALL: anybody else use their Fein for notching or cutting holes in their woodworking projects? I also like the new 6.5 inch diablo 60 tooth blade i put on my old B&D circular saw and it's cutting laminated plywood nicely now.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Drives,
a couple of tips you may find helpful when cutting ply, especially with a circular saw. A fresh blade is a good start, preferably one specifically for ply and laminates. Remember that the saw blade rotation is the opposite from that of the TS, ie the blade lifts and can exacerbate tear out. Try putting the good side down. Some will put a strip of painters tape on the planned cut line to help eliminate tear out.
Cheers.

 

[drivesitfar]

Turbo: thanks for the tips!!!! i've used both of those methods in the past, but the new item is the better 60 tooth Diablo blade. this plywood is laminated on both sides and pretty high quality, but I had it laying around and I needed some decent shelving hence me using it.

 

[rlitman]

Drives,
a couple of tips you may find helpful when cutting ply, especially with a circular saw. A fresh blade is a good start, preferably one specifically for ply and laminates. Remember that the saw blade rotation is the opposite from that of the TS, ie the blade lifts and can exacerbate tear out. Try putting the good side down. Some will put a strip of painters tape on the planned cut line to help eliminate tear out.
Cheers.

I often do the painter's tape. It makes erasing the cut line easier. The only problem with tape is that it can leave a residue that can affect some finishes.

The best solution to tearout is to score the line with a knife before sawing.

 

[drivesitfar]

RL: thanks for the tip and I forgot about that one.

 

[jimreed2160]

Hey Drives! After viewing my new vanity top, The Queen began lobbying for another upgrade of her bathroom. So I guess the projects never end.

Lamps Plus finally delivered those backordered lights and it was worth the wait. Each has two 60w candelabra bulbs and they light up the countertop like the surface of the sun. My tired eyes appreciate the brightness. The colors are very complementary but unfortunately do not photograph well.

 

[Bob Heine]

Jim, no good deed ever goes unpunished!

 

[topcok88]

Finally broke down and added a Domino DF500 to my shop. It was between the Mafell DuoDowler and the DF500. Ended up with a Emerald Edition and got some extra cutters and dominos in the process. Learned some more about the tool and made test cuts prior to my first project to use it with.


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[acer66]

Looking for ideas for the drawer construction that might fit my upcoming chest of drawer project.
I was going to do dovetails but watching Marc Spagnuolo using metal pins instead got me thinking if there might be something better.

The chest will be referencing the design of my bed frame.
View media item 98054
The drawers will have side mounted black ball bearing sliding tracks.

Thank you

 

[CRSINMICH]

A hand tool project needed to have two stopped rebates about 10 inches long. There are many ways to go about it using only hand tools. This is the one I chose. First, mark out the edges and ends of the rebates. Chisel and chop along the length then bring it to desired depth and flatness with a router plane.

It wasn't exactly quick, but I was using it as a chance to practice hand tool skills. The last picture shows some wild grain I had to contend with. The swirling grain on the top of the workpiece showed itself again on the bottom of the rebate. I was able to get the rebate fairly smooth by reversing the direction of the router blade and taking very shallow skewed cuts.

 

[fartymarty]

A hand tool project needed to have two stopped rebates about 10 inches long.

♫ ♬ You say rebate, I say rabbet, ♩ ♪ let's plane the whole thing off! ♪ ♫

(sorry, childishness made me do it )

 

[jar944]

Personally, I am done buying Festool - I have been eyeing the Duo Dowler, but I have a pretty decent Jessem dowel jig and Lamello Top 20 (I would have gone with the Duo Dowler)

looks like this, but it is the previous version

I've been debating the lamello zeta p2. I just wish the clamex and tenso connectors weren't so much $$$$$

 

[jar944]

I would also encourage anyone who builds cabinets with adjustable shelves and euro hinges to get a hinge and line boring machine (used).

Best $100 I've spent this year.

 

[CRSINMICH]

fartymarty: Well done! I usually use the Brit version for some reason. Just to confuse things a little more, the French word for plane is rabot. Go figure.

 

[topcok88]

Personally, I am done buying Festool - I have been eyeing the Duo Dowler, but I have a pretty decent Jessem dowel jig and Lamello Top 20 (I would have gone with the Duo Dowler)

That sentiment seems to be growing lately. Although at one time I remember the anti-Festool movement was rooted in cost. But now the DF500/700 is a cheap alternative as compared to the Mafell DuoDoweler or the Lamello P2. The Mafell does use dowels so I guess you could save on that. But the Lamello connectors are expensive compared to even Dominos. There are no good inexpensive joining systems. And I already don’t get enough shop time so I chose a proven joinery technique that is able to provide consistent results. The DuoDoweler still has a negative in my mind - you still have to be ultra precise. I really like being able to index off one reference surface, have a tight fit Domino and float the rest. Structurally the joint is still terribly strong and most importantly forgiving on assembly.


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[raskal]

I guess 'time is money', but I have a lot of spare time .

I use a jig from Hettich

I like the first quote, then you mention a machine that costs more than twice what Jar paid

 

[jar944]

I like the first quote, then you mention a machine that costs more than twice what Jar paid

I got a deal..at $100 no question. Look up the price of a new pneumatic blum mini press and the 7 spindle line boring attachment if you want sticker shock. Used they are closer to $500

Blum makes the ecodrill (same concept as the hettich pictured) for north of $300 but it only drills the blum/salice 9.5 x 45 pattern.

 

[jar944]

JAR: now all you need is a few good movies and we won't see you making any more woodworking projects.

I think the movies are covered, but I have a backlog of three kitchens to build currently, so I dont think I'll be watching much.
View media item 98349

 

[topcok88]

I think the movies are covered, but I have a backlog of three kitchens to build currently, so I dont think I'll be watching much.

View media item 98349

I watched Erock’s (ThePoplarShop) series on YouTube with his first kitchen cabinet build using the Festool Domino and LR32 system. I recently saw and commented on his IG posts where he used the Mafell DuoDoweler and it appeared he liked the doweling system better (although he did start purging Festool from his inventory). And on the other side of the spectrum Guy Dunlap (Guy’s Woodshop) built his cabinets using the Lamello P2 Zeta and corresponding fastener system. After seeing the options and if I was committed to doing a lot of cabinets I think I would buy the Lamello just to reduce the clamping operations. But for the limited cabinets I plan to build and all the other projects - the DF500 takes the cake. It’s it’s good enough for Jory Brigham it is good enough for me.


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[topcok88]

I haven't kept up with eRock - I will have to look into what he has been doing lately. He got pretty fed up with Festool and started dumping tools - he has a post about it somewhere on his website.

Also, in the back of mind, when you mention people like Jory Brigham, I can't help but think how many of those tools Festool has given him? (Festool used to give their stuff away like candy). Like just like the other pro's and product placement

raskal - I don't even think you could buy a replacement pneumatic cylinder for that machine that Jar has for $100. He got quite the deal on it.

Erock hasn’t posted much content on YouTube lately and posts mostly to Instagram so that’s how I follow. His frustration with Festool was the price increases. I get it - costs increase and that was his personal choice. But has anyone looked at the increase in cost of Grizzy equipment from ten years ago versus now... [emoji849] And if you had read or ever spoke to Jory he bought the Domino after seeing it in use elsewhere. His affiliation with Festool products occurred much later. Cost isn’t much of a consideration for me. Having the best quality tool to perform a specific task is. Unfortunately the only one that cuts that loose tenon is a DF500 Domino. [emoji23] Maybe Harbor freight will make the poor mans Domino.... Hopefully it won’t be as abysmal as Tritons “DuoDoweler” that is suppose to compete with the Mafell. I will take my risks with buying the tried and true original.


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[jar944]

I watched Erock’s (ThePoplarShop) series on YouTube with his first kitchen cabinet build using the Festool Domino and LR32 system. I recently saw and commented on his IG posts where he used the Mafell DuoDoweler and it appeared he liked the doweling system better (although he did start purging Festool from his inventory). And on the other side of the spectrum Guy Dunlap (Guy’s Woodshop) built his cabinets using the Lamello P2 Zeta and corresponding fastener system. After seeing the options and if I was committed to doing a lot of cabinets I think I would buy the Lamello just to reduce the clamping operations. But for the limited cabinets I plan to build and all the other projects - the DF500 takes the cake. It’s it’s good enough for Jory Brigham it is good enough for me.


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I have the 700 with senica adapter. For cabinets though biscuits and face/pocket screws are the way to go.

Personally I think dunlap makes a lot of cringe worthy incorrect statements and shouldn't be on a podcast giving advice (but I could say that about most youtubers or podcasters)

 

[topcok88]

Personally I think dunlap makes a lot of cringe worthy incorrect statements and shouldn't be on a podcast giving advice (but I could say that about most youtubers or podcasters)

I thought I was one of the few that observe that on the podcasts (Against the Grain and Woodshop Life). I won’t say he doesn’t have experience but his IG showing the cabinet construction with the P2 Zeta was nice. I actually was inspired by his Incra router table build and built mine.

But he is one of the reasons I even looked at the Lamello, Eric from PoplarShop brought the Mafell DDF to my attention and Huy from Alabama is why I’m looking at a the Hammer A3-31. No one knows everything but you are correct. Some questionable statements are made.


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[Bigblockyeti]

I guess 'time is money', but I have a lot of spare time . I could see using some of those fasteners to avoid using clamps or you had something that would be hard to clamp together, or you needed to be able to take something apart, but so far I haven't felt the need.

I use a jig from Hettich that clamps to the work piece and drills the cup holes and the holes for the screw.

https://www.rockler.com/35mm-euro-hinge-drilling-jig

That looks pretty slick and I like that it's compact, but for $234 I need it to gear drive all three spindles at once and advance them all at the same time and to the correct depth.

 

[jar944]

That looks pretty slick and I like that it's compact, but for $234 I need it to gear drive all three spindles at once and advance them all at the same time and to the correct depth.

Cmt makes one like that. Currently around $100
View media item 98354View media item 98355

 

[acer66]

Cmt makes one like that. Currently around $100
View media item 98354View media item 98355

That looks neat, any experience with that?

 

[fartymarty]

Cmt makes one like that. Currently around $100

That price seems a bit low to me (not that I object ), maybe you're talkin' well used and covered in saw dust for that price?

Any low price sources for a new one?

 

[ScottsGT]

https://aboloxtools.com/CMT-Orange-Tools-CMT333?gclid=Cj0KCQiAk7TuBRDQARIsAMRrfUac7TUzbEWNLmWjU4gYR84lga5q6obW7643qmCwuytkEBwirJPVuSsaAteWEALw_wcB