Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

[BMR24]

Hi everyone, I'm planning on building a couple of beds for my kids, and am on a budget. I planned in using alder for the entire project but alder posts in the dimensions I need will be more than I can spend. Anyone have any opinions on if a fir 4x4 planed down to dimension would look good with the alder or if I should just do the whole project out of pine / fir?

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[rlitman]

I built a bed for one son out of pine. I love the results, but keep in mind that pine dents very easily.

Personally, I feel that mixing and matching hardwoods with softwoods looks weird. But pine isn't all that cheap. Particularly when you're looking at clear furniture grade pine. The clear stuff is often more expensive than oak, although Asian imported radiata pine has been keeping the clear pine prices down.

 

[ez-duzit]

If you mix cheap wood species, paint it.

 

[BMR24]

The more I thought about it the more I agreed with you guys about the mixed wood looking weird. I priced out the alder in rough sawn and added laminations to my to do list and now will have all matching species. Pine was the same cost or more unless I would have bought all framing lumber but i didnt want to go that route. I was tempted to go with spalted maple or rustic cherry but i figured this being my first large project out of something not made of pine or fir I'd better keep it on the budget side in case I need to buy more lumber or a tool or two

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[GRB]

I find the 2700mm/106" one a bit limiting for ripping sheet goods. Angles get to be tough. I use the 3000mm/118" and that seems to be the general preference.

I have a new 118" that is not needed that I would sell for $300 and no tax if someone is in my area, Inland Empire of SoCal. It was opened to inspect but not taken out of the Festool box. These are shipped in a "box" that is 1x1 around the edges and masonite top and bottom so can be damaged in shipment.

I now have only one work and one personal location that I use this and just don't need 3.

 

[topcok88]

This is a *smoking* deal on a 106" Festool Track!



Normal price = $355

Amazon Warehouse price (small cosmetic damage) = $317.41



Special Discount for Black Friday Price = $253



This is what it showed in my cart (I would have bought it, but I already have one)

Thank you Git! I ordered the Used - Like New 106” for $276.11 shipped!

Wish you were closer GRB because I would buy the 118” from you in a heartbeat!


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[topcok88]

And for today’s project. Made this 24”x24”x24” LEGO table for my son. I bought full extension drawer slides to add a few drawers for him to store his LEGOs and added a raised edge around the top so his LEGOs don’t easily fall off. I sanded it and added clear gloss wipe on poly. I will do another coat tonight and start on the drawers later.
The table is on small locking casters so he can move it around his room and it’s constructed out of 3/4” maple ply. That way when it gets beat up I won’t be too overly concerned.


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[jar944]

I finally got around to reinstalling the power feeder on the pm66 I bought this past spring.

View media item 98693
Works well

 

[jar944]

Look what showed up today! Actually, first impression - slightly disappointed, the table is not flat all the way across both wings. Haven't had a chance to cut anything with it yet, but at least I have time to play around with it under their 30-day return policy.

This is the 'discontinued' model that is currently on clearance. Seems that Festool finally acknowledged that there was a problem with the motor and released a new version. Any Kapex made in 2019 is supposed to have the same motor as the new version and basically the only change is the base. We will see.

I considered a kapex as I wasn't (and am still not) all that thrilled with my Bosch glide. I decided for the $ I'd rather have a used omga. I'm curious what your impressions will be after a few days with it.

 

[jar944]

for fun I grabbed some timelapse video of batching out face frame stock to rough width. This was about 1/3 of a kitchens worth.

 

[Toolfool]

I need to jump in here. A few years ago Jim Reed started this thread with the intent to educate beginning woodworkers on the use of "basic woodworking tools". He covered the proper use, restoration and maintenance of those tools. He showed what could be accomplished with basic skills and patience. He generously welcomed us all to post up our fun projects , which started out well, but IMHO has gone off course. This thread feels more like a competition of who has spent more money on their power tools , rather than an educational thread. There is already a thread about new tool arrivals. If you want to share the beautiful piece you created in your garage , then show how "basic woodworking hand tools" got you there. Let's get back to Jim's original objective , educating beginners on the basics of woodworking. I think some of you owe Jim Reed an apology.
Flame on.

 

[topcok88]

I need to jump in here. A few years ago Jim Reed started this thread with the intent to educate beginning woodworkers on the use of "basic woodworking tools". He covered the proper use, restoration and maintenance of those tools. He showed what could be accomplished with basic skills and patience. He generously welcomed us all to post up our fun projects , which started out well, but IMHO has gone off course. This thread feels more like a competition of who has spent more money on their power tools , rather than an educational thread. There is already a thread about new tool arrivals. If you want to share the beautiful piece you created in your garage , then show how "basic woodworking hand tools" got you there. Let's get back to Jim's original objective , educating beginners on the basics of woodworking. I think some of you owe Jim Reed an apology.
Flame on.

At post #50 of this thread there was already talk of buying Festool Tracksaws... Apparently we need to go all the way back and start over.

In post #55 Jim said it was great to get all this knowledge in one place.

Oh and yea just so I can add to this thread. I spent a few hundred more and got this in the mail. I will let everyone know how the TrackRack works out and the PSA edge banding kit.



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[ez-duzit]

...I think some of you owe Jim Reed an apology...

I think you owe us all an apology.

 

[fartymarty]

I think you owe us all an apology.

Well I won't go that far, however...

I need to jump in here. A few years ago Jim Reed started this thread with the intent to educate beginning woodworkers on the use of "basic woodworking tools". He covered the proper use, restoration and maintenance of those tools. He showed what could be accomplished with basic skills and patience. He generously welcomed us all to post up our fun projects , which started out well, but IMHO has gone off course. This thread feels more like a competition of who has spent more money on their power tools , rather than an educational thread. There is already a thread about new tool arrivals. If you want to share the beautiful piece you created in your garage , then show how "basic woodworking hand tools" got you there. Let's get back to Jim's original objective , educating beginners on the basics of woodworking. I think some of you owe Jim Reed an apology.
Flame on.

Not flamin' you, but I disagree with "basic woodworking hand tools" portion of your post. Other than that I mostly agree with you. Some of the "only hand tools" crowd that have no use for power tools ("you need to hone your hand tool skills" is their answer to everything) are even more nose in the air elitists than the "I only use Festools" snobs. Even with a perfectly tuned hand plane making thin wispy paper like shavings, I personally find standing there trying to flatten boards to be a royal pain in the derrière. (hand tool snob inserts here: "It would be more enjoyable if you took the time to hone your hand tool skills." ) Give me a power tool anytime it will produce what I need done and doesn't need to be stored on a special stand (or special multi-colored plastic box) for worshiping, nor need a second mortgage for purchase.
To be clear, I have nothing against those that prefer Festools, or hand tool users, just the few snobbish/elitist ones which are in both groups and are off putting to those that are interested in learning more about woodworking.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Of all the threads in this forum, until now this was the one I thought least likely to get locked or closed.
Can’t we all just get along?

 

[topcok88]

Of all the threads in this forum, until now this was the one I thought least likely to get locked or closed.

Can’t we all just get along?

Yea. So I’m not a fan boy by any means. Just a young woodworker who’s enjoying his journey. I’m not a hand tool guy. Never have been and don’t intend to unless it’s some LN hand planes or other exquisite product. My time is currently more valuable than my money at this point in my life (= I don’t concern myself with the money because I have limited time due to work). If my sharing of projects or tool purchase bothers anyone then by all means I will stop. But I didn’t know it was a requirement to widdle an oak tree to a 2x4 using a hand saw and chisel to participate in this thread. Money doesn’t mean anything to my woodworking journey. But unfortunately my sharing of experience is making some jealous.


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[jar944]

This thread feels more like a competition of who has spent more money on their power tools , rather than an educational thread.

I thought the competition was for the least amount spent on tools? or maybe it was the competition for least amount the wife believed that last tool cost.

Imho this thread ended one way or another up as the defacto woodworking thread here on on GJ. Be it Hand or power tool from beginner to professional this thread has it.

 

[Craptain]

My understanding is that this thread is about sharing our love of woodworking and the tools and skills that we use for it. Some of us are highly skilled and use different tools to those of us who are not. It's no big deal. I read all the posts and contribute when I have something to say.
Personally I use both hand and power tools. I don't have time or inclination to work large pieces of wood by hand. And I don't feel like setting up machines when a hand saw or whatever will do the job faster. Antiques deserve the respect of hand tools and kitchen cabinets are quicker and more accurate with power tools. I work on both and expect most of you do similarly.

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[topcok88]

I considered a kapex as I wasn't (and am still not) all that thrilled with my Bosch glide. I decided for the $ I'd rather have a used omga. I'm curious what your impressions will be after a few days with it.

Did you get a OMGA single miter saw or the radial arm saw? I have a terrible Craftsman compound miter saw and do anything and everything to use my Incra Miter5000 and cross cut using that I can. I really want a Kapex for the dust collection and everything I read about the accuracy but like Git I am hesitant because there are known issues. How does the OMGA compare?


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[CRSINMICH]

I also use a combination of hand tools and power tools. It was only in the last few years that I started collecting, refurbishing, and learning to use hand tools but that is my preference now. I lost a fair amount of hearing to machinery (plus ROCK & ROLL) and I'm trying to preserve what's left. Having said that, my current project required cutting a groove in about 25 feet of lumber. I used my table saw (with hearing protection). Even Paul Sellers has a band saw and has mentioned a thicknessing plane.

Maybe someone could start a "Basic Hand Tool Woodworking" thread.

ToolFool: There is a thread called "Show Us Your Hand Planes". It's not very helpful for learning how to use them but there are some cool items. LINK: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=277733

Marty: I'm still chuckling over your "rebate/rabbet" pun.

 

[ez-duzit]

...Maybe someone could start a "Basic Hand Tool Woodworking" thread...

We don't need it.

 

[d.mcfarland]

Anyone ever rebuild an old cutting board?

A long lost neighbor of my grandparents built them an edge grain cutting board from white oak and walnut. It's by all standards very amateur. I'm considering reusing the old wood to rebuild it into something that can be used with some pride.

I think my best bet would be to cut all of the wood apart at the glue joints and redo it as if I was starting from scratch.

 

[rlitman]

Anyone ever rebuild an old cutting board?



A long lost neighbor of my grandparents built them an edge grain cutting board from white oak and walnut. It's by all standards very amateur. I'm considering reusing the old wood to rebuild it into something that can be used with some pride.



I think my best bet would be to cut all of the wood apart at the glue joints and redo it as if I was starting from scratch.

I wish you the best of luck, but doubt it can be done. Once the wood is properly oiled to be a cutting board, I don’t think you can glue it up anymore.

I suppose that if you had enough wood, you could assemble it gluelessly like the old time style that uses sliding dovetails and bolts.

 

[drivesitfar]

JON: If oak doors are not available or a bit to spendy. I have oak trim stained naturally and the doors are maybe pine or birch and painted white that look ok in my book. of course you could maybe also match the stain color and try it on one if you like the look of wood and see how that looks.

i'm sure some of you have went into 100-200 year old homes with all the old wood and not cared that the wood didn't match or if the stains were off a bit to just admire how it was built without using any power tools.

 

[TriumphFan]

I need to cut a few hollow core doors in half. Any tips or tricks to get a smooth cut? My table saw is not big enough so I will be using a circular saw.
TIA,
Jim

 

[drivesitfar]

TF: taping the cut can help and i learned here that also scoring the cut helps too. also using a newer blade with the right amount of teeth should help a lot. can i ask why you are cutting them in half and what you plan to do with them?

 

[TriumphFan]

Thanks Drivesitfar, I am using them for a ceiling basement. Not sure how it will turn out...
Not sure what the right amount of teeth would be. Probably fine tooth?

 

[rlitman]

I need to cut a few hollow core doors in half. Any tips or tricks to get a smooth cut? My table saw is not big enough so I will be using a circular saw.
TIA,
Jim

That's going to be difficult without tearout, but I'll say what I'd do.

1) Run a wide strip of blue painter's tape around the door.
2) Pencil in two very fine lines for my cut all the way around the door, with one on each side of the blade's kerf
3) Set up a steel straightedge, and score with a utility knife along both edges of the kerf. This is the most tricky part. n.b. if your knife mark is on the waste (kerf) side of the line, it will serve no purpose. If you err a tiny bit towards the good (door) side, then chips will likely tear up to the line, but it will at least help limit the depth of the tearout. So, basically you want to score two lines, just a tiny bit farther apart than your blade kerf. Keep in mind here that the opposite end of the door will have a tiny bevel, and you don't want to end up with a sharp edge, so bumping your knife out say 1/64" to each side of the saw kerf should be just about right. Later, a swipe or two with a plane to knock the corner off should make all this disappear.

4) Cut each side INDIVIDUALLY. So, set your circular or table saw blade depth to just over 1/8", so that each cut only just clears the full thickness of the door skin. Do not attempt to cut through the door in a single pass! And do not cut through the wood at the top and bottom of the door (or either side, as I'm not sure which way your cut will run) until the skin is cut.

The reasoning behind the last step is that a circular blade set very high will come down vertically on the wood, causing the most tearout. A very low blade will rake out at a flatter angle, tearing less. And leaving the ends of the door intact will keep the kerf from moving as you make the cut.

 

[ez-duzit]

I need to cut a few hollow core doors in half. Any tips or tricks to get a smooth cut? My table saw is not big enough so I will be using a circular saw.
TIA,
Jim

This is a job perfectly suited to a track saw, which I assume you don't have. So you will have to set your circular saw very shallow to just score the veneered door skins using a a fine-toothed carbide blade. Use a straightedge guide to keep from wandering and to make successive cuts precisely in the scored groove.

 

[rlitman]

This is a job perfectly suited to a track saw, which I assume you don't have. So you will have to set your circular saw very shallow to just score the veneered door skins using a a fine-toothed carbide blade. Use a straightedge guide to keep from wandering and to make successive cuts precisely in the scored groove.

If you've got one, yes, a track saw would handle this with ease. And many even have a scoring setting.

 

[d.mcfarland]

I wish you the best of luck, but doubt it can be done. Once the wood is properly oiled to be a cutting board, I don’t think you can glue it up anymore.

I suppose that if you had enough wood, you could assemble it gluelessly like the old time style that uses sliding dovetails and bolts.

The reason I'm going to attempt a rebuild was because the glue seems are cracking, which leads me to believe it wasn't oiled for a while. Think that changes the glue situation?

 

[rlitman]

The reason I'm going to attempt a rebuild was because the glue seems are cracking, which leads me to believe it wasn't oiled for a while. Think that changes the glue situation?

Not really. The oil doesn't go away, though it does migrate deeper over time. But I suppose if it appears dry enough to glue, you could give it a try. What's to lose?

 

[TriumphFan]

Thanks rlitman and ez-duzit. This won't be as easy as I thought but your ideas at least make it feasible.

 

[drivesitfar]

TF: do you have any pictures of the ceiling you are trying to make out of your old doors? I like the Diablo blades and if you've got a 7.5 inch circular saw maybe a 60 tooth blade that might cost $20 or so should do the job. i know others here have spendier options if you budget might handle a bit more so just ask.

i'm also wondering if you might be putting in some trim pieces over the edges so all the taping and scoring might not be as critical and you can avoid that?

good luck!!

ALL: my 1993 kitchen cabinet hinges are **** and the pantry door finally fell off so i did some research and found a ebay seller with replacement hinges that worked for the same holes to fix my problem. I had to drill 2 new screw holes for each new hinge and the centering drill bit the seller provided worked great. he also provided a youtube video showing him using a ruler or straight edge to line the hinges up and my 8 foot Johnson aluminum ruler worked great for the 6 foot pantry door. here's a few pics. now my bride is only talking about changing out the brass handles for stainless instead of a new kitchen. I could have done this a lot quicker, but in 4 hours i changed out 20 broken or damaged hinges and my bride is smiling a lot now.

 

[fartymarty]

I need to cut a few hollow core doors in half. Any tips or tricks to get a smooth cut? My table saw is not big enough so I will be using a circular saw.
TIA,
Jim

Again, I'm no advanced wood worker, I only dabble. However if the clean cut is very important, my first inclination would be a straight edge and a 1/8" down cut spiral router bit in a trim router to get through the outside panels then cut the inner wood anyway you can without messing up the clean edges* (*I hope) of the routed groove. Even a handsaw might work for the inner wood. (Lazy as I am, I can't believe I just typed that last sentence. ) Assuming it is a molded type hollow door then it would be best if your straight edge was attached to some thin hardboard for the router to ride on so you can make multiple passes and lowering the bit each pass to get to all of the various panel heights as you cross the door.

If someone more experienced than I (almost all on this thread) poo poos my idea than go with what they say.

 

[RKA]

Fartymarty, I'm not going to poo poo your idea, but I will explain where is gets squirrelly. Right tool for the job and all, but if I was stranded on a desert island with nothing but a router and a door I needed to cut in half for my bungalow, I would do what you said. It's really a task better suited for a saw. A downcut bit would help you with tear out on the surface, but a piece of masking tape will usually control that. A 1/8" bit is very thin and fragile, so you'll be taking shallow passes, which will go fine initially, but at 1/8" per pass, it will be a while before you get through a 1 3/8" door. You'll also need to swap to a different bit after the first pass to help clear dust out or that tiny little downcut bit will quickly become quite unhappy. At a little beyond halfway you'll find you've bottomed out the bit. They don't make a 1/8" bit very long because they are so fragile. The longer you make them the more likely it will snap. So even if you found one long enough to see the other side of that door, you'll find each successive pass is more difficult to keep the bit in one piece.

So next time someone drops me on that island, I'll ask them to trade the router for a saw.

 

[ez-duzit]

...at 1/8" per pass, it will be a while before you get through a 1 3/8" door...

The skins on a hollow core door are typically only 1/8" thick. The rest is pretty much air, except for some minor framing.

 

[fartymarty]

The skins on a hollow core door are typically only 1/8" thick. The rest is pretty much air, except for some minor framing.

Yes that's what I meant, cut through 1/8 - 1/4 only, not all the way through to the other side. It might take considerable depth of cut if cutting across a molded section just to reach the material (such as a molded panel door). I originally thought do it on both sides, but that would be difficult to line up exactly, but then if I understand what the purpose is (not sure I do, ceiling panels?) doesn't only one side need to be "nice"?
Regardless, whether on an deserted island or not, my idea might ****, but I don't think for the reasons RKA said...but I could be wrong about that too.

 

[RKA]

The skins on a hollow core door are typically only 1/8" thick. The rest is pretty much air, except for some minor framing.

Ooops, forgot about that! I guess I typed a whole bunch of nothing...for nothing. I'll still take the saw if I'm limited to tools on my island!

 

[Craptain]

This is a job perfectly suited to a track saw, which I assume you don't have. So you will have to set your circular saw very shallow to just score the veneered door skins using a a fine-toothed carbide blade. Use a straightedge guide to keep from wandering and to make successive cuts precisely in the scored groove.

I use what I call a poor man's track saw. Basically a straight piece of wood fastened to a piece of Luan. Then run the circular saw along to make the straight edge. With care, it works as well as an actual track saw. But I do clamp it to stop it moving. It does a great job of reducing or even eliminating tear out.
I borrowed the picture.

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