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Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

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topcok88

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Craptain said:
I use what I call a poor man's track saw. Basically a straight piece of wood fastened to a piece of Luan. Then run the circular saw along to make the straight edge. With care, it works as well as an actual track saw. But I do clamp it to stop it moving. It does a great job of reducing or even eliminating tear out.
I borrowed the picture. 37400b52b7a686c29a3ae0536460ad8a.jpg

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But what it isn’t is a plunge cut saw. Yea there are “work arounds” but scoring, blade angle and plunging it is not great at. [emoji6]


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raskal

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I have never used any Festool tool but I hope they perform as well as their price tag because $1500 CAD is kinda a lot to cut a door in half, but nobody said this hobby was cheap.

Since we are talking power tools atm, I currently own a Delta 1/4 sheet sander that refuses to keep the sandpaper on. A Ridgid 1/4 sheet sander that will keep it's sandpaper on more than the Delta and a Delta 5" ROS that is fairly ok. But like a lot of woodworking people, I hate sanding.
What sander should I ask Santa for that is sub $250 ish and will step up my sanding game?

I like the sound of the direct drive 6" ROS, but would they really cut my sanding time significantly? Are they too much of a duplication of my 5" ROS?

Maybe the Bosch 1/2 sheet sander?

None of the above fall into my Santa range, but Santa can always tell me to $%*! off, honestly, I'd just like my sanders to hold onto the paper better
 
T

topcok88

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raskal said:
I have never used any Festool tool but I hope they perform as well as their price tag because $1500 CAD is kinda a lot to cut a door in half, but nobody said this hobby was cheap.

Since we are talking power tools atm, I currently own a Delta 1/4 sheet sander that refuses to keep the sandpaper on. A Ridgid 1/4 sheet sander that will keep it's sandpaper on more than the Delta and a Delta 5" ROS that is fairly ok. But like a lot of woodworking people, I hate sanding.
What sander should I ask Santa for that is sub $250 ish and will step up my sanding game?

I like the sound of the direct drive 6" ROS, but would they really cut my sanding time significantly? Are they too much of a duplication of my 5" ROS?

Maybe the Bosch 1/2 sheet sander?

None of the above fall into my Santa range, but Santa can always tell me to $%*! off, honestly, I'd just like my sanders to hold onto the paper better
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So I have quite the assortment of sanders. From Clayton’s (three different sizes from dustlessmadesimple) that are anywhere from $200-$600 each, Dynabrade (ROS/DA and two Detail Line) for a few hundred, a Viking and IR (some not pictured). Here is my opinion after owning them.
I would buy electric power tools instead of pneumatic.
I love my ROS/DA sanders and would invest in a 6” with a large throw for hogging material off and another with a small throw for finish sanding.
The single best improvement to be made is buying 3m backing pads and committing to a system (Stik-It, HookIt,HookIt2).
I would throw my 1/4 sheet finish sander in the drawer and never use it again once I have a ROS/DA.

I will be sticking these on the shelf after depleting my abrasive inventory and investing in one or two electric sanders that meet my criteria. If I were you I would save a little more, go to a local woodworking showroom and get some hands on. Then commit to a system that has easily acquired abrasives. I personally have the three 3M systems mentioned above and really like the PSA StikIt. Because I can use my inventory and stick it to a block of wood if I need to hand sand. A little more versatile in my opinion.
IMG_4649.jpg



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R

raskal

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topcok88 said:
The single best improvement to be made is buying 3m backing pads and committing to a system (Stik-It, HookIt,HookIt2).
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I think you've got a great idea here, and I'm kicking myself for not thinking of it a long time ago.
I guess the thought of buying into PSA or Hook and Loop and not just getting generic sheets of sandpaper was my stumbling block, but right now, I think changing my DeWalt 26441 to a PSA or H&L platen would be a great start. Would you happen to know how the platen would be different? Can I modify the current platen to use PSA or H&L?

*** /edit as I think about it more, I should just go to my local store and see what kinds of sandpaper I can buy and just go that route. Thanks again for the very useful answer!


topcok88 said:
Is the markup really that great in CAD?
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We may have free healthcare, but we get brutalized when it comes to buying stuff. My comment on the Festool was based on the saw kit with the 55" track plus the 106" rail

and yeah, since I have no idea what I'm talking about, I have no idea if that's a reasonable start. Doesn't much matter to me as the tape hack works well enough for me as I'm not really a woodworker

$899 Emerald edition track saw https://www.kmstools.com/festool-li...lunge-cut-track-saw-with-55-guide-rail-173052

$468 106" track https://www.kmstools.com/festool-106-guide-rail-fs-2700-2700mm-12509
 
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T

topcok88

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raskal said:
Would you happen to know how the platen would be different? Can I modify the current platen to use PSA or H&L?

*** /edit as I think about it more, I should just go to my local store and see what kinds of sandpaper I can buy and just go that route. Thanks again for the very useful answer!
Click to expand...


The availability of resources/consumables should be a driver in your decision. I know it’s a larger investment but I buy my sandpaper by the roll. A 6” diameter sanding disc roll PSA for 50-100 pieces or so will be $25-$50 or more depending on manufacture. But it can be less expensive in the long run once you commit to the system. PSA (adhesive) is the least expensive route. I use the hook and loop for padded abrasive sanding/finishing (not required nor useful in this case). The reason why most people feel PSA doesn’t work as good as H&L is you can’t take a pad off and re-use it (in a previous industry we did this a lot) and usually the backing plates are JUNK for PSA. Buy a couple of the 3M backing plates and replace when necessary. I don’t know what your attachment method is for your sander but it could be a stud or a hole and there are a few different diameters. Figure that out and then buy accordingly using the manufacture info.




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raskal

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jonshonda said:
Unless every purchase you make and every paycheck you receive is tax exempt, you don't have free health care.
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Whoops, I opened a can of worms with my comment, sorry woodworkers

I will drop will drop this contentious issue..... after one quick story :)

My father has a heart attack. He was assessed at his regional hospital, determined he was stable and then was flown on a private air ambulance 250 miles to the best cardiac hospital in my province. He under went a quadruple bypass and was in that hospital for 7 days. When we got the bill (just kidding, there's no bill) ... but I did have to pay for parking when I visited him. But yes, I do pay for healthcare in my taxes, but that's a good thing cause I could never afford for his flight let alone the rest of that hospital stay.

and now back to sanding .... ugh
 
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fartymarty

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jar944 said:
Couple of shop drawings of the kitchen I'm working on....
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Now that's much better. Looking forward to following this, especially if we can twist your arm to encourage you to leave out or at least give short shrift to the sanding parts. :)
 
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jar944

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jar944

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topcok88 said:
For the boxes do you use anything for alignment? Screws, biscuits, dowels, dominos, rabbets? And then just screw from outside?


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I use biscuits for face frame to box alignment and pocket screws anywhere they wont show (paneled ends on everything). Face frames are built as a single assembly to avoid joints. field joints only where absolutley necessary and then only at the stile to rail intersection.

The backs sit in rebates 1/8" deep and are installed after paint or finish (if not prefinished ply)

Basically there is no modularity, cabs designed to fit the space and be as seamless and furniture like as possible.
 
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Chevota Guy

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greyghost18t said:
What type of respirators and filters are people using for sanding and staining?
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For dust generating activities I use a Trend Air Shield Pro powered respirator. It works wonders filtering fine dust particles but doesn't filter any type of fumes or vapors. For those I use a 3M half mask with P100 organic vapor cartridges and it works very well. The Trend unit is a little pricey, but a small price to pay to keep my lungs protected. I got the 3M unit from a local home center and buy the replaceable cartridges online as there are a number of filter cartridges available that are for specific filtering.
 
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jar944

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topcok88 said:
Do you more often do frame or frameless cabinets? The beaded face frames are a very nice touch. Looking forward to door construction and finishing technique.


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I only do face frames, and mostly beaded. As for finishing I dont have a booth, and it's looking like I'll be having these sprayed by a local shop.

Slight upgrade to the jig. It now has air clamps

 
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fartymarty

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For those of you, like me that have done some woodworking but still need or want to learn more (after all, the thread title infers that this is class 101), and have no clue as to why someone would want to put notches into cabinet face frames, I offer the video link below which explains it all fairly well. There may be better ones out there, but this one explained it well enough that I now have a clue as to what is going on here and I'm able to avoid the embarrassment of asking about it (hopefully I'm not the only one here that was clueless). I watched the whole thing, but my answer came at only 33 secs into the video. If like me you had no clue, your answer may come simply from the photo I used for the link.
 

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jar944

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fartymarty said:
For those of you, like me that have done some woodworking but still need or want to learn more (after all, the thread title infers that this is class 101), and have no clue as to why someone would want to put notches into cabinet face frames, I offer the video link below which explains it all fairly well. There may be better ones out there, but this one explained it well enough that I now have a clue as to what is going on here and I'm able to avoid the embarrassment of asking about it (hopefully I'm not the only one here that was clueless). I watched the whole thing, but my answer came at only 33 secs into the video. If like me you had no clue, your answer may come simply from the photo I used for the link.
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Ha, point noted. Pics would have helped

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fartymarty

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jar944 said:
Ha, point noted. Pics would have helped
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Yes not only that, but it nips my next question in the bud. :) Now I don't have to ask (and more importantly, you don't have to answer :bounce:) if you are simply going to glue, or dowel, or domino the joints....I can see all the domino work.

Great progress, those are really looking good!:thumbup:

jar944 said:
View media item 99352
Click to expand...
 
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jar944

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fartymarty said:
Yes not only that, but it nips my next question in the bud. :) Now I don't have to ask (and more importantly, you don't have to answer :bounce:) if you are simply going to glue, or dowel, or domino the joints....I can see all the domino work.

Great progress, those are really looking good!:thumbup:
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Actually I've switched from domino's to pocket screws for face frame assembly. Believe it or not I actually have had less paint joints/seasonal cracks with pocket screws than domino's and they are about 100x faster.

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Those were just pictures from previous projects on my phone
 
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Bigblockyeti

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Does the underside of the pocket screw head sit well in the radiused bottom of the pocket created by the Porter Cable pocket cutter or does it need clean up before screwing to keep the screw head from trying to split the wood?
 
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jar944

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Bigblockyeti said:
Does the underside of the pocket screw head sit well in the radiused bottom of the pocket created by the Porter Cable pocket cutter or does it need clean up before screwing to keep the screw head from trying to split the wood?
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It works as cut with no clean up. I'd guess castle (the PC is a rebranded castle) has about half of the commercial pocket hole market.
 
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topcok88

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topcok88 said:
Thank you Git! I ordered the Used - Like New 106” for $276.11 shipped!

Wish you were closer GRB because I would buy the 118” from you in a heartbeat!


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So following up on a previous post. Purchased a FS2700 (106”) through AmazonWarehouse deals and it was delivered today via truck freight. I honestly don’t know how they did it but the guide rail was shipped from WA state to here in VA, the description online said the rail was not damaged but the exterior box was damaged and I was not able to find any damage at all. IMG_4843.jpg Honestly got a real deal on this and will be keeping my eyes looking for more Warehouse deals (especially on manufactures/products that don’t offer discounts). Thanks again for the heads up Git. Now I gotta go start breaking down material for my Paulk inspired/torsion box top out feed/assembly table.


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topcok88

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So a few updates.
IMG_4847.jpgView attachment 1IMG_4846.jpg
Started using my 106” guide rail and love it for breaking down sheet goods!
Really like the FastCap TrackRack and will be ordering another set for my 55” guide rail and looking for a 75” to round out what I own.
Also started using the FastCap edge banding kit on my sons LEGO table drawers as practice.
IMG_4849.jpg
I guess the next big thing is to finish my out feed table, continue on finishing my basement and then start on the kitchen cabinets. Too many irons in the fire.


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acer66

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Flathead Youngin' said:
Get a set of Cool Blocks and the riser kit for that Delta BS, it turns it into a whole different machine.....


Love the old stuff!
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I checked but the price for the riser
but it is more than double the price I paid for the saw. :(

Will check the cool blocks out.

So far everything looks promising,
I hope the vibration will be solved with new tires.

I also like the old stuff, might not have all the bells and whistles like the new stuff but they have that solid feel like they will outlast you.
 
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topcok88

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acer66 said:
Could not resist, need some work and as of now I will not attempt to restore them just get them functional.
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Old machines can be quite fun to use and/or restore and use. PluginImage1577408811.722147.jpg I did a refurbishment on a similar Delta Machine. Recently (not pictured here) swapped out the chuck with a new one. Can’t say I would do a refurbishment again. Congrats on the machines and can’t wait to see what you make with them!



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A

acer66

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topcok88 said:
Old machines can be quite fun to use and/or restore and use. PluginImage1577408811.722147.jpg I did a refurbishment on a similar Delta Machine. Recently (not pictured here) swapped out the chuck with a new one. Can’t say I would do a refurbishment again. Congrats on the machines and can’t wait to see what you make with them!



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Yeah, I am very exited since that is my first drill press and the bandsaw will be the first working one too.
I have a Boise Crane bandsaw in need of fixing sitting in the corner
but I like the Delta more.

That drill press looks great, why would you not do another restore?
 
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