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Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

topcok88

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Jun 3, 2013
Messages
660
That drill press looks great, why would you not do another restore?


For my situation I lack the time required to do restorations to the level and attention to detail that I feel they deserve. Prior to my table saw purchase I went looking for another classic saw. What I found was the fit, finish, and detail on modern machines is far superior and got me to my projects immediately. And the second thing is time. I hardly have enough time in the shop doing what I enjoy (woodworking, firearms/reloading and washing cars) so I told myself I would spend a little more on my tools upfront so I can spend more time doing what I enjoy. [emoji481] What ever you decide to do in your shop keep us updated on the tools and projects!



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Gasgt1

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Joined
Dec 23, 2013
Messages
996
Location
100 miles SW of Chicago
We prefer mission style and our home and furnishings reflect it.
I built a bookcase based on a Stickley original piece.
All quartersawn white oak with real through tenons.

Ship lapped back is QSWO as well.
Thanks for looking.

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turbowoodworker

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Mar 18, 2012
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Location
Apex NC
QSWO, Gasgt . I bet that thing is heavvvvy! I made a very similar WO mission style, similar size. Mine is fixed shelve with sliding dovetails but I used a QSWO veneer over ply on the back . Even at 40 some inches, it is a bear to move. Thanks for posting here too.
Rick
 

jar944

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Jul 26, 2010
Messages
5,905
Location
Northern VA
Jar, what I have figured out from your 3-car thread is that this isn’t a career or a hobby per say for you. I think the automated notcher is great - are you really making enough beaded face frame cabinets to make it worth it?



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Lol you are correct. Though when I tell people that its not a profession or a hobby people tend to look at me cross eyed and me saying it's not a hobby annoys my wife to no end since I've spent $ on machinery that wasn't absolutely necessary. Which is true, I dont *need* most of the equipment I have just to build a kitchen or three.

However I'm all about process optimization and the acquisition of tools. This is garage journal after all:beer:

Is it worth it? I'd say yes. It took me a couple minutes to cut a notch using my original jig, this one takes me 10 seconds or less, and more importantly is more consistent because of the air clamps. Total cost is under $100 in parts, not counting the router or bit since I needed those either way.

I have a 10 year old house that my wife wants almost all 5700sqft ripped out and replaced. Between the two kitchens in this house, and a Third kitchen for my in laws and all the rest of the built-ins /cabinets going in the office, library, parlor, bathrooms etc. are all beaded.

So I think it's worth it, it sure is more enjoyable to use..even if it's not. or possibly I'm just avoiding actual work by building gadgets :lol_hitti
 
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topcok88

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Joined
Jun 3, 2013
Messages
660
I have a 10 year old house that my wife wants almost all 5700sqft ripped out and replaced. Between the two kitchens in this house, and a Third kitchen for my in laws and all the rest of the built-ins /cabinets going in the office, library, parlor, bathrooms etc. are all beaded.

So I think it's worth it, it sure is more enjoyable to use..even if it's not. or possibly I'm just avoiding actual work by building gadgets :lol_hitti


Thanks for putting it into perspective. I’m not judging at all as I do the same. My wife asked why I need all the woodworking tools. I have a few passions (woodworking, washing cars and firearms/reloading) and woodworking is almost exclusively because I’m left less than impressed by what can be purchased. And if a person can buy a premium quality item it is priced far above what I want to pay. Haven’t taken the leap to building kitchen cabinets yet... But I’m getting closer.



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acer66

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Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Messages
4,418
Location
Western North Carolina
For my situation I lack the time required to do restorations to the level and attention to detail that I feel they deserve. Prior to my table saw purchase I went looking for another classic saw. What I found was the fit, finish, and detail on modern machines is far superior and got me to my projects immediately. And the second thing is time. I hardly have enough time in the shop doing what I enjoy (woodworking, firearms/reloading and washing cars) so I told myself I would spend a little more on my tools upfront so I can spend more time doing what I enjoy. [emoji481] What ever you decide to do in your shop keep us updated on the tools and projects!



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Will do and yes, time is a big factor here too and a friend of mine gave me a beer brewing kit for Christmas so I have another but potentially very rewarding hoppy, I mean hobby now.
:lol_hitti:beer:
 

Gasgt1

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Joined
Dec 23, 2013
Messages
996
Location
100 miles SW of Chicago
QSWO, Gasgt . I bet that thing is heavvvvy! I made a very similar WO mission style, similar size. Mine is fixed shelve with sliding dovetails but I used a QSWO veneer over ply on the back . Even at 40 some inches, it is a bear to move. Thanks for posting here too.
Rick

It is a beast to move for sure.
I really do like the ship lapped back but it does add weight.
I am fortunate to have an enormous amount of wood stashed so I always use solid wood.


I do like the idea of sliding dovetails :thumbup:
 

jar944

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Jul 26, 2010
Messages
5,905
Location
Northern VA
Thanks for putting it into perspective. I’m not judging at all as I do the same. My wife asked why I need all the woodworking tools. I have a few passions (woodworking, washing cars and firearms/reloading) and woodworking is almost exclusively because I’m left less than impressed by what can be purchased. And if a person can buy a premium quality item it is priced far above what I want to pay. Haven’t taken the leap to building kitchen cabinets yet... But I’m getting closer.



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For perspective when we moved into this house my wife got a quote for our main kitchen. It was $46,000 for just the cabinets.. not including installation, countertops or appliances (or the pantry)

A bit of advice I got years ago when I was building some cabinets for my first house (and wanted to build the entire kitchen) was you can't beat a man at his own game, which is true.. i took that as a challenge to become a student of the game. I have over the years learned as much as I could about many aspects of cabinet making and furniture building and the machinery and tooling of professional shops. partly because I'm cheap and partly because I enjoy learning new applicable skills.

In the end I have a overflowing shop with more machinery than a lot of single man cabinet shops and the ability to build literally anything I can think up or decide I want. Which is a problem in and of itself.. once you can build anything (for me) it's hard to decide on what that final thing is.
 

topcok88

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Joined
Jun 3, 2013
Messages
660
For perspective when we moved into this house my wife got a quote for our main kitchen. It was $46,000 for just the cabinets.. not including installation, countertops or appliances (or the pantry)


That is where we are at now. Mid-finishing our un-finished basement, want lots of built-ins, want new vanities, want new kitchen cabinets..... The list is a lot larger than the checkbook. I wish you the best Jar and will be following along gleaning knowledge!




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acer66

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Dec 4, 2010
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4,418
Location
Western North Carolina
For perspective when we moved into this house my wife got a quote for our main kitchen. It was $46,000 for just the cabinets.. not including installation, countertops or appliances (or the pantry)

A bit of advice I got years ago when I was building some cabinets for my first house (and wanted to build the entire kitchen) was you can't beat a man at his own game, which is true.. i took that as a challenge to become a student of the game. I have over the years learned as much as I could about many aspects of cabinet making and furniture building and the machinery and tooling of professional shops. partly because I'm cheap and partly because I enjoy learning new applicable skills.

In the end I have a overflowing shop with more machinery than a lot of single man cabinet shops and the ability to build literally anything I can think up or decide I want. Which is a problem in and of itself.. once you can build anything (for me) it's hard to decide on what that final thing is.

Similar here on a much smaller scale and I really enjoy learning new things while doing so.
 

BMR24

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Joined
Oct 2, 2017
Messages
234
Location
Rocky Mountains Colorado
Goodmorning guys, I need a little advice or ideas for joinery. I'm building a bed and was going to have the bottom rails on the headboard / footboard at diferent heights from the sideboards, and through tennons was the plan. My wife asked if I could change the design after the headboard was almost complete to have the side rails at the same height as the headboard/footboard bottom rails. I need to make a joint for the side rails to attach to the headboard in the same place as an existing through mortice and tennon joint, but where it gets tricky is I need to be able to take it apart to get the bed in and out of the rooms if we ever move. The wood is alder and I'm concerned about tusked tennons splitting out. I'm trying to not use any hardware in the construction. Any help is greatly appreciated

The lower x's is where the original joint was going to be, now it needs to go in the upper x's perpendicular to the existing mortice.20200104_091900.jpg20200104_091958.jpg

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BMR24

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Joined
Oct 2, 2017
Messages
234
Location
Rocky Mountains Colorado
I did at first, but she made some good points about how the finished product will look, and pulled that " you can do anything you set your mind to" spiel, which I've learned is way to get you to do what they want.
Either way, I already said I'd figure something out. I have an idea using drawbores, but I'm concerned if they will be removable with a punch? I dont mind buying dowels in the future if I need to take it apart to move it around

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IdahoMan

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Joined
Feb 26, 2015
Messages
434
Quick qustn:

Yard sale find. Record Marples No. 04, Made in England. Tungsten Vanadium blade.
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Can anyone give me any info on the quality/usefulness of this brand?

Thx.
 

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jar944

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Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
5,905
Location
Northern VA
Figured I show how I build beaded face frames for inset cabinets, mostly since I remembered to grab some pics this evening.

Step 1. Machine all stock to appropriate width and thickness, then cut to length.
View media item 100012
Step 2. Mark out the mid rail intersections, use a set out rod or story stick where possible.
View media item 100013
Step 3. With the rails and Stiles marked out, cut the haunches and notches.
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Step 4. After notching verify the everything is correct with a dry fit
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Step 5. With all parts checked, run the beading cut.
View media item 100017
View media item 100018
To be continued..
 

drivesitfar

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Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,006
Location
Pacific Northwest
Jar: it looks like you are working on another nice looking project and thanks for showing us good pics with explanations.

good luck cause it looks like you've got quite a few to do.
 

oflannabhra

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Joined
Oct 30, 2019
Messages
73
Location
KY
I'm gearing up to do some built-in beds for my kids in a house we are renovating.

I currently have a ShopSmith model 510, which I've used for several small projects. I've not been a huge fan of the table saw, however. I'm looking to pick up a used saw, but I'm not incredibly familiar with older saws.

Requirements
- 1.5+ HP
- Riving knife
- decent dust collection
- 10" blade
- able to use dado sets
- able to build outfeed tables around

So far in my research I've discovered brands like Powermatic (specifically model 63 and 66), Grizzly, and Delta (Unisaw).

I'd like to score one on Craigslist or Facebook, but that will probably require some travel, and I'd like to know as much about these as I can before taking a trip.

Questions
- Do all of these allow for things like riving knives to be installed?
- Are there any reputable brands or models that I'm overlooking?
- Any good resources (besides here) for this info?
 

Bigblockyeti

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Feb 1, 2018
Messages
2,550
Location
Upstate, SC
If you're open to a splitter vs. a true riving knife your options open tremendously. A true riving knife rises and lower with the blade and is very close to the back of the blade all the time. An adjustable splitter can accomplish this but needs to be adjusted every time the blade height is changed significantly to keep it effective and keep it from contacting the blade. I have a Unisaw and would only consider a PM66 as an alternative.
 

rlitman

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Joined
Oct 18, 2010
Messages
24,591
Location
Long Island
I'm gearing up to do some built-in beds for my kids in a house we are renovating.

I currently have a ShopSmith model 510, which I've used for several small projects. I've not been a huge fan of the table saw, however. I'm looking to pick up a used saw, but I'm not incredibly familiar with older saws.

Requirements
- 1.5+ HP
- Riving knife
- decent dust collection
- 10" blade
- able to use dado sets
- able to build outfeed tables around

So far in my research I've discovered brands like Powermatic (specifically model 63 and 66), Grizzly, and Delta (Unisaw).

I'd like to score one on Craigslist or Facebook, but that will probably require some travel, and I'd like to know as much about these as I can before taking a trip.

Questions
- Do all of these allow for things like riving knives to be installed?
- Are there any reputable brands or models that I'm overlooking?
- Any good resources (besides here) for this info?

While I can't honestly say that it is impossible to retrofit a Powermatic 66 with a riving knife (because I have a thread that explains just how I did just about that), I can say that it is highly impractical, and required a LOT of tools and expertise way outside of the woodworking field. Also, the castings on these older saw designs are working against you here.

I don't use a riving knife for every cut, but I do use it whenever possible, and I personally feel that it may be the most important safety feature a table saw can have.

That being said, while I've seen a lot of used table saws come and go, I have never seen a single one with a riving knife. Perhaps they're just too new in the field here, but I suspect some of it has to do with people keeping them now that they have them. Maybe you'll see them at garage sales in 50 years, but for now, good luck with that.

As for outfeed tables, you can build that around ANY saw. Don't sweat that.

If you're open to a splitter vs. a true riving knife your options open tremendously. A true riving knife rises and lower with the blade and is very close to the back of the blade all the time. An adjustable splitter can accomplish this but needs to be adjusted every time the blade height is changed significantly to keep it effective and keep it from contacting the blade. I have a Unisaw and would only consider a PM66 as an alternative.

If you're talking about a behind-the-table splitter, there's no way I'd consider that. I feel that those make things more dangerous. There's too much of a chance of tensioned wood leaving the blade and hooking straight into the splitter stopping it dead next to a running blade. I don't want any part of that.

I don't have any experience with splitters that are built into your table insert. I suppose they're PROBABLY close enough to the blade, but remember that as you lower the blade, the rear edge of the blade moves forward in the table, so the gap to the splitter still grows. It may be small enough, but the 1/8" gap to my knife is something I KNOW is close enough.

Also, I worry that the insert splitters are kind of flimsy, being made of either plastic, or home-made of wood.
 
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jar944

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
5,905
Location
Northern VA
I'm gearing up to do some built-in beds for my kids in a house we are renovating.

I currently have a ShopSmith model 510, which I've used for several small projects. I've not been a huge fan of the table saw, however. I'm looking to pick up a used saw, but I'm not incredibly familiar with older saws.

Requirements
- 1.5+ HP
- Riving knife
- decent dust collection
- 10" blade
- able to use dado sets
- able to build outfeed tables around

So far in my research I've discovered brands like Powermatic (specifically model 63 and 66), Grizzly, and Delta (Unisaw).

I'd like to score one on Craigslist or Facebook, but that will probably require some travel, and I'd like to know as much about these as I can before taking a trip.

Questions
- Do all of these allow for things like riving knives to be installed?
- Are there any reputable brands or models that I'm overlooking?
- Any good resources (besides here) for this info?

As stated riving knives are relatively new (not really but not common on small commercial saws until recently)

Craigslist will likely get you a good deal on a non riving knife equipped saw. If you want one with the riving knife its going to come in a box / crate from a store.
 

topcok88

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Joined
Jun 3, 2013
Messages
660
I would not want a riving knife or splitter in the way on any of my table saws.



Can you explain why a riving would be in the way and how it would hinder any operation? I Agree splitters are a terrible compromise. But the only time I can think of a riving knife being in the way would be for very special operations like making a dish on a table saw. I can’t imagine using a table saw without a riving knife - the single most influential object in preventing kickback.


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ez-duzit

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Joined
Jun 24, 2013
Messages
5,095
Location
Marina del Rey
Frequently I run the blade up through the workpiece to create an interrupted cut on jigsrouter templates and instrument panels, for example.

Never have kickbacks.
 
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